R34mac

Alright, I've sent an email off to a local plastics company to see if they have a product available to suit. I am hoping for a thickness of 2 - 3mm max. The design of the actual box is almost spot on now, just have to adjust the shape a little bit to get more clearance between it and the stock intercooler piping. It's still going to take time though - I still have to design brackets so it bolts up to the stock mounting holes, and try and source some clips. I also have to buy a standard airbox and snorkel to check the airbox is sitting at the right height, to meet up with the lid. At the moment I am just working with accurate lid dimensions and a rough position for where the stock airbox usually sits.

Hi guys, For the past year I have run an Apexi pod filter in my R34 GTT, using a JJR shroud in an effort to seal it off from the engine bay heat. But I've never liked the shroud because it is not a perfect seal and would still allow a lot of engine bay heat in. I also hate the fact that it doesn't have a snorkel or some kind of duct feeding cool air to it - instead the air has to find its way through the small gap behind the headlight. So I have decided to design a custom airbox which will be able to accommodate an Apexi pod filter and will be sized so that the stock airbox lid will clip onto it, and in turn allow the stock snorkel to slot in as well. I have come up with a design in CAD and have made a full scale model using thick cardboard to allow me to test fit - it still needs a few more small tweaks to get the AFM angle and position spot on before I consider making the final product. I am planning on using perspex but also considering aluminium and borrowing my friend's welder. What are people's thoughts on this? Something which you guys would be interested in or not worth the effort? I know there is a valid argument to simply sticking with the standard airbox and panel filter, but I'd miss the induction noise that you can only get with a pod. My time is free and the materials aren't exactly going to cost me very much. Thoughts?

I am interested in the stock airbox - but only if you have the snorkel piece to go with it. In the photo it is missing...

Thanks Anthony - I actually run a shield very similar to that at the moment. To me it is still a bit dodgy because it doesn't seal up against the body properly and there are loads of gaps where engine bay heat can come through.

Hi all, I'm after a standard R34 GTT airbox and snorkel. I parted with mine for next to nothing 2 years ago when I fitted a pod filter... kicking myself now! If anyone is able to help me out please let me know.

You'll want to keep running with the auto ECU after the gearbox conversion. After mine was coverted to manual I bought a manual ECU off eBay and gave it a go. It ran the engine exactly the same but suddenly the TCS and SLIP lights were constantly on, plus no traction control. Apparently the TCS sensors differ between the auto and manual cars. So in summary, running the original auto ECU is what you'll want to do. The A/T light will illuminate on the dash because it can't find the auto gearbox but you can remove the bulb in the cluster if that bothers you. Better than having no TCS!

As someone who didn't know much about it, it wasn't immediately apparent whether a boost tee install is exactly the same as other boost controllers. If anyone searches this and finds this topic - I simply removed the factory boost solenoid and replaced it with the tee. It worked perfectly and after a few test runs I got the boost level adjusted properly. Boost seems to build much more quickly and at an earlier RPM now which is fantastic. Great results for the money.

Hi Guys, I ran a search on this but couldn't find an exact answer to my question. I've just bought a Turbosmart Boost Tee for my R34 GTT and I am curious about the installation of it. Can it be installed so that it takes the place of the factory boost solenoid? Or should I leave everything as is, and just fit the boost tee in the line which finally leads to the wastegate? Also, is it recommended that the ball and spring be removed straight away, or not necessary unless I get boost spikes? My car runs a stock turbo and I only want 10 - 12psi max. Not interested in running dual stage boost. Thanks a lot.

I purchased TommyR34's set. Thanks to all who offered

About 2 years ago I had a 3" turbo back exhaust put on my GTT and decided to go with a 3" twin tip varex. In my opinion they are bloody brilliant. It is loud when open but not LOUD LOUD as you'd get from a cannon or so on. When closed it is definitely as quiet as stock. However...... bear in mind, your car is N/A. You don't have a turbo, which acts as a muffler in itself. So if you run the varex on its own it would definitely be louder and maybe drone more than on a GTT. You may need a mid muffler somewhere along the exhaust and then have the varex on the end. Hopefully there is someone here who is running one on an N/A who can correct me... or confirm it. But yes, the actual varex unit itself is great and still works perfectly for me 2 years on. Good quality. The remotes are a little fragile so if you decide to get one, take care of them. From memory the muffler set me back $400 or so. Might be a tad cheaper now? The only downside I can think of is if you drive around with it open the whole time, only the right tip will get carbon build up on it and will look darker (only on the inside, outside is still bright chrome). So you kind of need to run it shut for a while too so the left tip can build up and match the colour.. I have ordered a camera mount of eBay and when it arrives I am planning on recording a video of driving with it open / closed.

Hi Guys, I am chasing a set of standard R34 GTT 17" wheels. Don't care if they have tyres or not but prefer them to be in good condition. I don't mind if they are scratched up a bit so long as the price reflects this.. Or I would also consider a set of 350Z 18" Touring wheels - attached a pic to clarify which style I mean. Need them asap and hopefully in South East Queensland. (Sunshine coast or Brisbane preferred). Thanks a lot.

This guy looked to be desperately after one if you were willing to ship overseas http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1585078

Interested but the price would pretty much have to half itself to make it worthwhile. Let me know if you desperately need them gone..

Damn all of you!!! I find myself wanting one now

Just wanted to add, since my last post I acquired an R34 GTT Manual ECU and tested it. Appeared to be little to no difference between it and my Auto ECU. It's also worth nothing my traction control was also disabled (TCS and SLIP lights on the dash permanently) perhaps due to different sensors fitted to auto R34's. So I've switched back to the auto ECU with no problems at all. But may play around with the manual one again soon.

Yikes.. my manual conversion total cost was $3300. Each to their own I guess.. I imagine your auto must shift pretty hard. I still found the gear ratio's on my old auto to not be very nice though.

Auto ECU is fine on a manual conversion. I've got both ECU's here and tested them. Also if you run the manual ECU the TCS is disabled (you get TCS and SLIP errors on the dash permanently) - they must have had slightly different sensors in the manual R34's.

If you're interested, here's a comparison between gear ratios... manual vs automatic. (The higher the number, the higher the gear ratio (shorter the gear) ..... M..........A 1) 3.214 - 2.785 2) 1.925 - 1.545 3) 1.302 - 1.000 4) 1.000 - 0.694 5) 0.752 First gear on the auto is about half way between 1st and 2nd on the manual box. Second gear is about half way between 2nd and 3rd on the manual box. Third gear is equal to 4th gear on the manual box. Fourth gear is actually a lower ratio than 5th on the manual box - for good highway economy. Less gears means a larger jump between ratios.. hope this all makes sense

Tiptronic isn't really that flash - my R34 was tiptronic for the first 3 years I owned it. They're good gearboxes but as Silver GT said above, they're essentially just a standard automatic slushbox. It'll jump down to 3rd gear fairly quickly and you have to apply more throttle to get it to kick back a gear. Over 60kph it'll slip into 4th and stay there, unless you knock the lever across into tiptronic. Upwards changes up a gear and down changes down. It also won't let you change into 4th below 60kph until the engine has warmed up. I ended up having mine converted to manual because it seems to suit the car much better.. mainly for the gear ratios. The auto 1st gear is pretty short - letting you take off pretty quickly, but then second gear is quite tall so the revs really drop quite a lot during the change. The manual ratios are much nicer and makes the car feel a lot quicker.

Hey guys, I was lucky enough to score a set of unmolested R34 xenon's and was interested to get a few answers from people. My R34 had it's xenon's removed and replaced during compliance with the proper halogen headlight bodies & bulbs. The xenon lights I got have the stock 4500k bulbs and upon fitting them up, I wasn't that impressed with the brightness of them (after seeing people raving about them so often on the forums here). I polished them up, but they're still almost on par (or just slightly better) than my old halogen lights. Maybe it's the people who have xenon headlight bodies which have the xenon bulbs converted to halogen, who notice the biggest difference when swapping back to proper xenon bulbs? Anyway, I was also curious to know - if anyone out there has been defected for having r34 xenons, what temperature bulbs were you running? Did you have higher K bulbs giving off a more bluish light that may have attracted the cops? It's just after looking at my lights, I can't imagine the police caring about it / let along getting a defect for them because there are plenty of other cars out there on the road running brighter xenon's than these. The improvement for me was marginal and the only difference really, is my lights are now white

I've also got this issue too, when replying or starting a new thread. Had to switch to IE just to write this.

Want to know the golden rule? Never post up your security arrangements on the internet. You've just given out details that are such good quality, they could only be improved if you provided a floor plan of your house with all the locations clearly marked. Scoff at that if you wish, but theives are always waiting for opportune times to do the deed. At least they know where to find your garage door keys now, and they can crosslink who you are from the car in your avatar with numberplates clearly marked....

Lol.. settle down now mate After a while the novelty will wear off! I've had my GTT for over 2 years and I still love it every bit a much as when I bought it. BUT luckily the urge to drive everywhere on full boost does wear off quick

Sounds like the vacuum line which runs from the gauge to the manifold has a split in it. If you pop the bonnet and stand along the drivers side of the engine, you should see a small rubber hose coming off the inlet manifold - I attached a pic. It runs from the manifold, down to a little box near the ID plate (sorry I don't know the technical name for it). Take the line off and see if it has split at either end. Mine did this a few months ago - if you want a quick fix, cut the end of the hose off a bit to get rid of the split piece, but chances are it'll happen again within a few weeks because the rubber is brittle. Take it in to supercheap and pick up a length of hose to match the size and hopefully you'll be set. This was the reason for my gauge sitting at 0 at idle, and only moving slightly on boost.. hopefully this is the solution to your problem too

Thanks man. I'm going to get my car NISTUNE'd so I guess I'll have to decide whether I want to be looking at an A/T light or TCS / SLIP lights instead