NewKleer

disconnecting the big 75A fuse will probably have same effect

another 2 sent out this week. waiting on cable to arrive to make more

correct, the ecu assumes that the CAS is set "correctly", which means the ecu reads the correct timing. if its not set correctly, eg its set 2 degrees advanced from where it should be, the ecu will ignite 2 degrees earlier (but it is still thinking its igniting at same timing value as it does normally). hence, only way to confirm timing is set correct is with timing light (and locking the ecu into locked timing mode so it reads steady 20 degrees instead of jumping around)

well first things first - u want to make sure that its running rich across the whole rev range (in which case afm adjustment might help, but i too havent heard about it much for later model cars)

boost leaks dont show up on consult, neither do blown headgaskets, dodgy wiring, you get the point if used properly it can rule out a lot of things though. best to get ur hands on a consult cable and do it yourself (then u can post logs etc here, as well as check fault codes)

pretty much what i would have said - resistor alters AFM voltage linearly, but the AIR->Voltage relationship is not linear. youd probably mess up your idle, amongst other things (ie making certain regions too lean and risking engine damage, detonation, etc). btw, is there any form of adjustment screw on the AFM?

just an update - aiming to make more either tonight, friday or the weekend. i imagine by the following weekend all will be done

yeh, 30 degrees is definitely not "retarded" at full load, and if anything proves u dont have R&R, not that you do graph duty cycle also would help

0.9v means nothing more than "richer than 14.7:1". dont assume 0.9v must be "xx AFR". ie, dont use that value to assume you must be running "too rich" use the fact uve got a stock ecu without a piggyback to infer your running rich, cause thats what the stock ecu does! nothing really out of the ordinary there i dont think

it hasnt happened for 37 starts of the engine, not "its happened 37 times". ie big number = long ago = not an issue now. if an error code is 0/1 starts ago, then its probably something that needs to be looked at post consult logs

back at post #81 at least i stopped adding reserves cause its unlikely anymore than those there (and then maybe not all of them) will get one. but if somehow more are available or lots pull out, ive got the order that people have posted in here as reference. basically anyone thats not on the list shouldnt wait around for one if they need one, cause its unlikely you'll end up getting one.

for people with usb converters who want TECU to work, ive added this to bottom of readme page: Important: TECU is assy with any COM port other than COM1 and sometimes COM2. To have any chance of it working with USB/Serial, you need to force COM port to COM1 or COM2 (whichever isnt in use): 1) Find "USB Serial Port (COMX)" in device manager (see above to find this) 2) Right Click, Properties -> Port settings -> Advanced -> Change port number on dropdown. 3) It will say its in use, but if u know it isnt (ie u dont have modem or bluetooth or anything there) then just confirm/continue/ok etc. 4) Open TECU, on main startup screen it where it says "Com Port:1" in bottom left corner - double click this to change to COM2 if you set converter to COM2.

cool, thats all for the moment, might get to make some more next weekend, if my arms havent fallen off from nonstop typing of my thesis until then! Peter

open up ur radiator cap after you just start car when cold, and see if u can see the water moving across radiator. if so, ur thermostat isnt closing properly, making it take longer to warm up etc. however if the themostat closes fully, but opens too much/too quickly, you would have the same issue (and if it does that, its harder to tell) the group buy is still running, but full. blazt.biz for 100-105AU delivered will get u the cable u hook up to ur pc (functionally the same as group buy one). or a few months time ill have the next version of consult lcd displays (which also have integrated consult interface) for only 100 or so more than that (around 200-230 mark). since your cooling system is pressurised and should be using some "coolant" (rather than plain water), it wont boil till up past 100 (maybe 110 or so?). 95C is normal temp for my SR20DET (time which the fans turn on). if it hit 105 id be finding a place to cool her down, mainly cause id know something isnt working right if its getting that high (unless ive been thrashing it a lot with no airflow). youve got more than just a cable sitting on your dash

unfortunately gluteal discomfort is not addressable in future versions

the people are on the reserve list to cover for people on the list. ie, the only way people on the reserve list would normally get one is if someone on the main list decided they no longer want one. this cable (or more accurately, the one that will replace it) is from the few cables i have left over that arent allocated to any of the different group buys im doing. it could have quite as easily gone to someone on another forum...that it went to someone from here just means the more chance others on the reserve list will get one (since theres now one less person there). so, everyone on the main list will still get one, and if they pull out, assuming theres no sudden increase of dud cables (with manufacturing defects), the people on reserve list, in order (assuming they pay within specified time), will get it. if i asked every person in turn, and waited a few days for them to reply, itd be christmas already! there's no obligation for you to get one here...i havent taken any money, and it wont inconvenience me if anyone pulls out (so long as they tell me) - if you're in a hurry, you can get a serial cable from blazt.biz for around $103AU delivered, or USB cable for $122AU delivered. particularly for those towards end of the reserve list, since its not that likely that everyone in the main list would pull out to mean there's enough cables for everyone on reserve list.

cool, taken. edited that out of my post so no one tries to collect again if u dont want the usb, ill hang onto it and send u $20 with the cable? btw ur main paypal address listed with paypal doesnt have postcode (but one u put in notes did)

edit: these no longer available

with a bit over 3 weeks left in the degree, there's no way im giving up now not much chance of making a living out of it, id do better on the centrelink payroll assembly my end takes about 30 minutes, another 15 minutes to do a full rom dump to test it. all the SMD assembly was done by PCB manufacturer, fortunately.

sent toasty and stingray's today

the clock is out due to the server, not you. only if its out by a full 30/60/etc minutes is it a setting issue your end. eg right now forum says its 1:17 but its 1:26 prank has the search format changed recently? before, if u put two words seperated by a space, it was an "OR" search. now its an AND search.

i wont be making any more after this lot. maybe 2 of the reserves might get one, but i wont know till i do the rest in a few weeks.

thats the point of this thread - post ur vin and someone will give u the info. hopefully fast will be able to do urs (depends how late model it is i guess)

3 more people have been contacted yesterday (and first post updated) as their's are made and ready. next 2 on list might be done today. remaining ones after that probably wont be done till weekend of jun 23.

fast->help->version info 2001/10 explains it