NewKleer

the display is a standalone device, intended to be permanently hooked up (but its plug and play, so u can take it out and plug it into someone elses car to check it) - if you dont want or care to use the laptop with it, you dont need to. it doesnt need a laptop connected for it to work. it can display most, but not all the info that can be shown with software (but since you can use it like a usb consult cable with a laptop if you want, if you need to know anything not shown you can use whatever software on the laptop with the display in USBIF mode). the only time ive personally needed to hook up a laptop to it was to update the firmware (when there are new features added to the display you can get them via firmware updates), and once to have a play with active tests (changing timing/fuel temporarily)

the PLMS one should work the same as ECUTalk, they used the same FTDI chip (and rest of circuit should be fine). so main difference is just the price tag (and the look etc).

ahh yeah if it also modifies the injectors or timing (if thats possible) then those outputs will also be inaccurate. but with that much 'trickery' going on, i wonder if it wouldnt have been much better to get a daughterboard/remap/nistune type setup. back on topic, ive actually thought of making a digital gauge that hooks up to the consult port and allows you to set it up to read one of the readings (be it water temp, speed, volts, etc). e.g. a 4 digit LED display with decimal point. mainly because people are used to mounting gauges and not so much mounting rectangular displays. if only i didnt have a real job i might have made it already ive been too slack on updates to the LCD display anyway, so thats first priority.

it reads what the ecu sees. so if the ecu is being tricked into believing lower AFM volts, then it will show the lower AFM volts (and if thats the only signal intercepted/modified, wont make much difference). outputs like injectory duty % will be unaffected.

u need to set the right port number in datascan. start-run-devmgmt.msc-ports-see what com port ur usb serial thing is on, and use that com port in datascan or any other consult apps. by default they use com1 which is the normal port for onboard serial ports only.

just do a continuity check between the wires on the consult port and the pins at the ECU (forget the check one, check there is 12v when car is on at 12v ign one, gnd to gnd, and the remaining 3 go to ecu).

you're supposedly able to report your post and ask for the changes you want done, but ive yet to have any mod actually do the requested changes (unless theyve started to in recent months)

theres a discount buy on pulsar forums, serial for $45 or usb for $60, which is $10 cheaper than it normally is via the ecutalk website (which seems down at the moment, try google cache), and about half the price of a blazt cable. just provide a link to your sau forum profile on the last page where it says to when ordering.

not sure

yeah 91/09-92/06 auto rb25de r32 ecu

yep there you go btw whats ur ecu serial nuber (23710-xxxxx?) and ill look up whether it is auto or not (i assume it is) on nissan fast program

i imagine swapping wires 1 and 3 on the TPS sensor would do it (but id want to confirm that engine temp sensor, AFM, TPS switch etc are all operating correctly, otherwise it could be the wiring 'back up the line' more which is back to front). given your bastard of a car with all the bits and pieces from here and there im surprised more isnt wrong

sounds like tps wired backwards or something?

no but you have your generic obd2 stuff for those cars, plus the recent blazt obdii cable/sw (which includes nissan specific stuff i think)

dont forget theres obd scantech that does pretty much the same, for free (theres also ecutalk, calumsult, tecu, etc): http://techdiag.co.uk/obdscantech/web/pg002.html

or 0.3v, which is volage sensors will often start at when cold. (but give it a couple minutes for the heater to warm it up)

what cable is it? a blazt one? if ftdi drivers dont work from plms, im assuming it must be cygnal one from blazt - link - pic there also as for buying a cable if thats what you were also asking, usb is $70 posted from ecutalk ($55 for serial)

0 isnt 'normal', you might hover around 5 perhaps dipping a bit below now and then, but 0 (especially if constantly at 0) isnt normal. but 0btdc timing is most likely just a symptom of whatever is the actual cause (ie the car going into some safe mode due to the 21 error code). i guess get the turbo timer sorted/removed and then see if that was the cause or not

can also try tecu if you want http://www.ecutalk.com/interface/readme.html there are instructions for installation there, though only works on COM1 or COM2 (edit the com.dat to COM2 or something, or u double click the port label thing on the main screen, cant remember) not sure if calumsult has logging or not but thats an option also try to get log from driving, and try to note when exactly u feel the hesistation or whatever (perhaps try to pull over soon after and stop the log, so you can backtrack roughly how far back in the log and work out roughly where it happened - then u can work out if its gone back to 0btdc at that point or something else funny has happened)

all those logs are fairly useless. try get a log with ecutalk and post that (if theres no proper logging for scantech). the cylinder tests dont seem to show much drop at all. with the cylinder tests its often more up to you to work out which cylinder has least differences to engine when its turned off as without a steady idle the logs dont show much is the engine warm when you get the 0btdc timing? it should generally always be >0 for a normal car, up past 5 most often - but this may just be a symptom of whatever is causing error 21.

on its own its not something id be worried about. i know on my car the timing is stuck at 5deg up to around 2300rpm till the car hits ~72C or so, then its normal. i believe its intended, just like the cold start enrichment is, just to make the car run better until its warm.

theres no standardised wiring of o2 sensors due to all the variations so im not sure - on some cars white is sensor, blacks are heater, on other cars theres 3 different colours, and so on. its probably 1 of 2 things - either wires are messed up, or the sensor doesnt have good electrical connection with dump pipe/ground circuit etc and theres more resistance to ground than there should be. if the o2 sensor didnt come with a proper connector on it and there was splicing of wires or anything like that, i would say thats most likely cause

your o2 sensor isnt wired correctly from memory if ur getting 2.55v, the sensor wire is hooked up to the heater element power or similar.

http://techdiag.co.uk/obdscantech/web/pg002.html is scantech link i remember seeing a matrix somewhere of support for different ancillary systems via consult, and some of them (hicas probably) only had consult support on the Z32 and GTR - not on the mainstream models.

ive never had a hicas car to try (perhaps it only works on the earlier hicas?) does the full conzult (z32) work on other vehicles? blazt sells it for $189US, not sure where the $600 figure came from