V28VX37

Thanks, I'll see what I can do Cheers! Yep work up the pipe rather than down, that way you'll get the overlap happening the correct way (opposite to mine in the pic above). The direction probably doesn't really matter in practice though, so perhaps this is something for perfectionists only... Make sure you wear gloves when wrapping, the heat wrap is ceramic and leaves tiny particles everywhere! The silver rings are essentially stainless steel cable ties, they came in the heat wrap package.

Yeah dude I bought mine second hand and it doesn't look quite like in the catalogue anymore I wrapped it with some 800C exhaust heat wrap from Autobarn, around $20 for 7.5 metres. That was enough for the front half of the pipe. If I was to do it again I'd start from the middle and work back towards the bellmouth, just so that the edges are not against the air flow when driving (plus water splashes/speed bumps) ... Anyway, here's how it looks now: ... Well, the full system is now on the car thanks to a local exhaust joint that did a great job cutting and welding it all to fit! Here's the specs: Nissan turbo dump pipe gasket JJR Stainless 3" Bellmouth Front/Dump Pipe XForce 3" high flow cat HKS Super Drager cat back with 3" mid and 3.5" rear section, 5" tip (originally for an R33 GTS-t) It really wasn't a bolt-on job as I kinda gathered already... required mods: Front/dump needed heating up and a slight bend to align correctly, plus a support bracket welded on Midpipe between cat and front muffler was cut off and replaced with a short length of 3" pipe Front flange of midpipe realigned to match cat rear Rear muffler needed hangers modified and a new one added 3.5" four bolt gaskets (on the pipe between front and rear mufflers) are pretty hard to come by so they used exhaust sealant instead So yeah not really a home job but I'm happy with how it turned out. The total cost was around $900 (inc. parts & labour for full turbo back) ... but I did spend weeks collecting them bloody parts The system is really quiet on idle as intended but you can finally hear the RB come to life on higher revs! The stock turbo is a bit more audible now too, which is nice. Thanks everyone for all your tips!

Then you'll have to take it to a shop who know how to replace it for you. Mine actually came of relatively easily but I did spend several days soaking them in WD40. Also make sure you have heaps of leverage on your ratchet as slow, even torque is better than sudden jolts. No power or air tools here. No bracket guys, have a look at the photo below from Just Jap website. You can either weld one on (that's what I had done) or try and fabricate something that goes under the bolt(s) between the pipe and the cat.

I am sure they can but don't really see the point. With such a small inlet it is likely to have relatively restricted internal flow as well. You'd be better off finding a rear muffler that is the correct size for your existing piping. Try the SAU classifieds, Firesport, Hardtuned, Gumtree or do another search on Ebay and I'm sure you'll find one that fits.

Don't despair mate it does run on Win7 you just gotta go through the right motions. I'm confident you still need a driver for Win7. Look at the PLMS drivers page at http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/usb_drivers.htm and then download the second file ( http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/files/PLMS...in7_Drivers.zip ). If I remember correctly it's a two step installation process: when first plugged in the unit is recognised as USB-to-Serial adapter (with a generic driver I think), and only after this you can install the PLMS driver. Once you've got the drivers sorted make sure you select the right COM port setting in Nissan DataScan. Oh and one of the three leds should be on at all times when the cable is plugged into your computer. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the comments guys. I put the stock exhaust back on and will take the whole shebang to an exhaust shop for fitting. I think I'll get away with the XForce cat as is since the catback is an R33 HKS item and needs a good chop to fit anyway. They might just as well adjust the midpipe front flange whilst they're at it. I also noticed that the JJR front/dump doesn't have a rear support bracket like the stock front pipe (and the likes of Blitz and HPI) does. I don't think 2 metres of exhaust piping + cat hanging freely between the turbo and the mid muffler is a great idea so I'll ask em to weld in a bracket for that too. Note to self: Next time try not to cheap out and get a turbo back system that is actually designed for the model

Yep tried it on, XForce rear bolts fine to the stock cat back (cat is straight & level) however with one front bolt on the other bolt holes are 10-15mm apart. Tried forcing it but they still wouldn't line up to get a bolt through. It's hard too see it in the photos but the front flange appears slightly more 'rotated' on the XForce. I may have to take it to an exhaust joint to be cut & rewelded, sucks though as I thought it was a straight bolt-on...

Gave this a go today. All went well, I kept soaking the turbo bolts and nuts and didn't break any of them, yay. Stock dump & front came out easy enough, although the long fixed bolts on the stock cat suck. Swapped the O2 sensor to the new pipe no dramas, popped it in loosely and started looking at the cat. What the h___, the flange doesn't like up?! It's an XForce 3", part number ES-NR32-02-CAT. It says R34 GTT on the box too. The front flange seems to be the problem, it seems more slanted than on the stock car: Front: Rear: Has anyone else seen this?? Please don't tell me coupe and sedan have different cats? Also just to confirm, the arrow on the cat is the exhaust gas flow direction right (i.e. pointing towards rear of the car)? My JJR front/dump was on a sedan before so that should be fine...

Great advice, thanks everyone! I'll give it a go over the next week. Re O2 sensor, I thought as much. I tried replacing it not long ago (on the stock dump) but no way can you get it out without the special tool below when the dump's still in the car:

Brilliant, thanks heaps for the tips Clutch!! Here's what MAG86 suggested in another thread, although he's talking about the manifold bolts: I might give it a go spraying them hot once and then multiple times again when cold, shouldn't hurt. Cheers

Hi all, I just got one of those JJR bellmouth front/dump pipes for my R34 GTT and was wondering if you had advice and tips on installing it. Some questions: 1. Can this be installed with the front on jack stands or do you need a hoist? 2. Do you recommend separating the dump from the front pipe or just pulling these out together? 3. The flange on the stock dump is heaps thicker (about 18 mm) than on the JJR (~8 mm). Can I still use the original bolts or do I need to get some shorter ones? 4. Should I put the heat shield bracket (see 3rd photo) back in with the new pipe? I don't think the bolt holes will line up (with the heat shield) given the difference in flange thickness. 5. There are six bolts altogether. How do you access the bottom two? 6. Any tips on how to avoid snapping the bolts when taking them out? They've been on for the whole 100,000 km I reckon. I've started soaking them in WD40, hope that helps... Thanks heaps guys.

Great work, please do keep us updated!! Any plans for the wheels, are you keeping them stock? I just spent the whole weekend painting mine, what a PITA job it was. Happy with the results though.

Never mind, got one. If anyone else is looking try Bros Exhaust at 287 Geelong Rd, Footscray VIC tel. 9689 4022. They had 3" mild steel in stock at a good price and most likely have other sizes available as well. Cheers

Some did come with factory manual transmission but they are very rare. Couple of months ago I saw 1 on Carsales out of 20-30 sedan ads in total. I'd also hazard a guess that most of the cars advertised as manuals are in fact conversions. Always check with the seller & FAST check the VIN to be sure.

I'm looking for some 3 inch (75 mm) exhaust pipe in mild steel to extend an R33 cat back for an R34 sedan. Condition doesn't really matter as long as it's straight and not dented. 40-50 cm should do. Flange at one end would be bonus but not strictly required. Maybe you have a leftover length from another exhaust? Even an old front pipe would do if it's got a 40 cm straight section. Please PM me with your price & location if you have one. Happy to pick up within 30km from Melbourne. Thanks!

No longer needed, decided to get a new one. Thanks all

Second that - looks mad!!

Search mate, there's a couple of diagrams in the first thread below: R34 Pop Up Screen To Triple Cluster, Simple Guide And Diagram... Triple Gauge Cluster R34 Gtt Did All R34 Gt-t's Come With The Triple Gauge Cluster?

Yeah nah Stock airbox top half is the intake side with the snorkel etc. Then you have the panel filter and bottom part with AFM on the outlet side. At least on GTT probably on GT too. GT-R is likely different. Here's a pic:

+1 for checking your CAS. See my earlier thread here.

Still looking for one...

You have a PM

I'm looking for a high flow catalytic converter: - 3" inlet and outlet with flanges - Flow at least 500 CFM - Second hand and in good condition, not blocked or collapsed Must suit R34 GTT (RB25DET Neo) with 3" front pipe and 3" catback exhaust system. Will consider Catco/Xforce/Magnaflow and perhaps Kenobi. Ceramic or metallic doesn't really matter. The cat should look something like these: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=275&page=1 http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=275&page=1 Happy to pick up within 30km from Melbourne. Please PM me with your price & location if you have one left over from a previous upgrade. Thanks!

... anyone got a leftover coil pack floating around?

Yeah getting a custom one is the plan, it probably works out cheaper too. Thanks for the offer, I'll PM you with some further questions. I'm going to get a quote from an exhaust shop over the next few days, let's see what they think.