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Everything posted by V28VX37
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Wrecking 2000 R34 Gtt
V28VX37 replied to SleekF6's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Hey mate are the coilovers still for sale? You've got a pm. -
Thanks GTSBoy, brilliant response! Good idea about starting with the middle setting in the rear. You're right, the stock setup has mad understeer as it is, I'd much prefer something more neutral/balanced. I might have a look through the Whiteline catalogue for the D brackets & bushes... I wonder who else manufactures these kind of items?
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Hi all, I just got a set of second hand ARC (Auto Refine Company) R33 GTS-T swaybars that I'm planning on installing on my R34 GTT - fingers crossed they fit. These swaybars are hollow and measurements are as follows: Front 28mm, non-adjustable (stock bar = 22mm) Rear 25mm, three point adjustable (stock bar = 18.5mm) The rear bar uses spherical end links (see photo below) and apparently the front uses the standard end links. I'd like to clarify a couple of things before attempting to install these: I'm missing some D brackets and bushes and was planning on replacing them anyway. Any idea where to buy a set (2 x 28mm, 2 x 25mm)? With the rear adjustment, what's the most "understeery" setting I should start with (= closest to stock behaviour)? I read somewhere that the spherical end links may not be ideal in a road car - can they be easily replaced with something else? These bars don't have the "lateral locks" like in the M35 Stagea thread, I assume that's ok? Thanks guys! I've found some good installation instructions by Sydneykid here: M35 Stagea Suspension and R33: Installing Whiteline Swaybars. Photos of my swaybars: And some more pics of different ARC swaybars here: arc pipe stabilizer for s13 and Arc Auto Refine Company 30mm Pipe Swaybar Rear Bnr32.
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Hiss/whistle On High Boost: Exhaust Or Boost Leak?
V28VX37 replied to V28VX37's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Well I'll be damned, looks like it's all sorted. I tightened (just a touch) the three accessible manifold to turbo nuts (top ones & bottom right), top right seemed the least tight. I also tightened four of the turbo-dump bolts, one of the top ones was a touch loose. The hiss/whistle is now gone. Big thanks to MADE, Godzilla34 and others for your suggestions! Reading through some other posts it sounds like bolts/nuts coming loose can be an issue with aftermarket front/dump pipes that put more stress on the turbo and manifold. I might look at replacing a section of the front pipe (JJR bellmouth) with some flex pipe later on to relieve this a bit, especially as I keep on scraping the exhaust on a weekly basis pretty much... -
Hiss/whistle On High Boost: Exhaust Or Boost Leak?
V28VX37 replied to V28VX37's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
The manifold to turbo flange/gasket/nuts all look fine on the top and both sides (better than in the photo you posted). Can't really see underneath. Car drives fine. I'll see if I can tighten the nuts though. -
Hiss/whistle On High Boost: Exhaust Or Boost Leak?
V28VX37 replied to V28VX37's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Ok I had the workshop look at the car. They can hear the hiss/whistle too but couldn't locate the cause (it's very momentary). It doesn't seem to affect performance at all either, they even chucked the car on the dyno and it runs the same numbers as before. Weird. I might leave it for now, or perhaps do this boost leak test if I cbf. -
Hiss/whistle On High Boost: Exhaust Or Boost Leak?
V28VX37 replied to V28VX37's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Thanks, yes I do, although it's a Trust turnflow (vertical flow) rather than the more common horizontal flow type (e.g. Blitz, Cooling Pro). Still worth checking though, just need to get the car on a hoist. -
Hiss/whistle On High Boost: Exhaust Or Boost Leak?
V28VX37 replied to V28VX37's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Thanks, I'll have a look at these areas. Fingers crossed it's just a gasket and not one of the flanges or studs... -
Hiss/whistle On High Boost: Exhaust Or Boost Leak?
V28VX37 replied to V28VX37's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Thanks mate, good to know it's not a completely isolated event. Did you replace the gasket yourself or get a shop to do it? How much, if you don't mind me asking? I should call the bloody council or something, what a PITA when they don't keep the roads in check... -
Hiss/whistle On High Boost: Exhaust Or Boost Leak?
V28VX37 replied to V28VX37's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Good call, I gotta get in on a hoist somewhere and have a proper look. -
Hi all, I was recently cruising down a country road and hit a pothole and/or some loose debris at its edge. Massive bang. I had a quick look under the car straight after and there seems to be a fresh scrape under the mid muffler but no other damage that I could see. The exhaust is hanging low so it's likely to have taken a hit, and if not it must have been the intercooler. The cooler and piping looks fine from the outside, too. The car runs fine but seems to have developed an occasional hiss/whistle noise on high boost and might have lost a bit of power, hard to tell though. It still generates boost well enough. I pulled out the airbox and tightened all IC piping clamps underneath but this didn't make a difference. Any ideas on what else to check? Looking at some other threads I wonder if any of these might be the cause: boost leak (loose clamp, cracked cooler?) exhaust leak (manifold, gasket, broken stud/s etc.?) slightly damaged turbo? And yeah the car's an R34 GTT auto with a front mount (Trust vertical flow), stock turbo, turbo back exhaust and a recent Nistune running ~11psi.
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Read this mate: R32/33: Replacing Shocks / Installing Coilovers <- same process for R34s. Note some R34 models have eyelet mounts in rears, some have forks, make sure you buy the right type. This might help too: Howto: Access Rear Strut Tops On R34 Sedan Good luck.
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Manual Conversion
V28VX37 replied to 34Princess's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Umm, how about search? First result: Diy R34 Manual Conversion Using R33 Parts Good luck. -
Yeah get a return flow so you don't have to do cutting except to trim the reo bar. In principle the Blitz kit should be easier to install (better piping tolerances) but heaps of people have fitted the Cooling Pro coolers just fine. I got myself a second hand Trust turnflow (vertical flow) kit last year and fitted it myself, works well but took a fair while to install: http://www.skylinesa...r-installation/ 8 hours by an experienced workshop sounds a bit much though. Good luck.
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Trust Turnflow Intercooler
V28VX37 replied to Harey's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
In other words, air runs vertically instead of side-to-side as in more common coolers. Although the Trust turnflow runs via factory piping you'll still need piping to connect it up, as seen here: http://www.skylinesa...c-turnflow-kit/ This piping is not included according to original poster in this ad, so you'll have to make something up. I've got the same kit on my 34 and it's running well, installation instructions & pics here: http://www.skylinesa...r-installation/ Hope this helps. -
Couple of fresh shots of the 4door taxi from a recent drive: A few more in the February 2011 Photo Thread if you're interested.
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Couple of fresh shots of the (dirty) taxi from a recent drive: Cheers
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+1 to slot & fold, check pics 11-13 here: R34 Gtt Front Mount Intercooler Installation - Some tips for a Trust vertical/turnflow kit Awesome looking cooler the ARC!
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Thanks heaps Realor for this DIY, great work!! I just installed a FMIC on my car using these instructions and documented the process here: R34 Gtt Front Mount Intercooler Installation - Some tips for a Trust vertical/turnflow kit Anyone looking for how the get the front bar off there's a good DIY here: Taking Off Gtt R34 Front Bumper - With Pictures Cheers
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+1 for YJ from here too. Mine arrived within 48 hours of placing the order.