V28VX37

Wow that was a great deal! Sounds like they're pretty much the same as mine, here's the installation thread and discussion on bushes in case you're interested.

A very interesting read, thanks for posting. I believe this is all in reference to 'vertical flow' intercoolers (which are also 'return flow' too), where air flows top to bottom rather than side to side (quote and diagram from the very first post): I've got a relatively rare Trust vertical flow cooler on the GTT, here's a pic of the core(s) and piping: Looking at the pics you posted, it seems that the generic ebay vertical flow units have end tanks that taper linearly, whereas on the Trust and GkTech units the end tanks are curved. I'm guessing this is no coincidence. In the Trust core the fins are 'curved' (sine wave) rather than 'linear zig zag' (like in your diagrams). I'm not sure if this is the case with other cores but thought I'd mention it. I'm a big fan of the Trust kit for simplicity & ease of install, and it's been reported to support a 300rwkw setup no problems. You can read the full installation thread here with some good discussion on this type of IC design and its pros and cons.

Bump.

Brilliant! Here's the same embedded:

How about matte red for something different? Revinora M3 (from here): 5-series wagon at Wekfest (from here): Could be exxy though...

Can anyone recommend a place in Melbourne for doing a basic AT service and the welsh plugs mod? Someone who knows Tiptronic boxes?

Thanks for the clarification. I assume eyebrow = hub-to-guard, mine are currently as follows: Front 350mm (25mm drop) Rear 335mm (30mm drop) I reckon what I'll do is pop the adjustable camber arms in, dial out some of the neg.camber, look at the toe and if I run out of adjustment then lift the rear up a bit to compensate. There should be an extra 0.75deg in adjustment in the toe arms too since I've just replaced the inner bushes with eccentric SuperPro ones... Thanks for all the help guys.

Thanks Jezboosted - are you running them with the stock toe arms? Is your toe amount still ok?

Thanks mate. What kind of camber are you running on the track (front + rear)? I thought too much rear negative camber would be bad for straight line traction?

Apologies for gravedigging and thanks to OP STAGTR for an awesome writeup! I just got some NeoTech adjustable rear camber arms that I'm planning on fitting on my R34 GTT sedan. Question: Can the rear camber arms be installed alone - without the toe arms - without messing up the toe too much? The car's currently running Rear Camber: -1.30 and Rear Toe: +1.5. It's got a SuperPro camber kit and factory adjustment dialled to the lowest neg.camber setting. What I'm aiming for is Rear Camber: -0.5 and Rear Toe: 2.00mm in on each side i.e. SydneyKid recommendations. Here's a pic of the camber arms - thanks qaf539!

Bump

Ended up going with BC's F:6 and R:5 at it feels great. With regards to my original question, KYBs are supposed to work fine with King Springs even if they're not a 'short shock' per se. Around $800 or so for a full set, so not that far off from low end coilovers pricewise.

Black 35 in Docklands today. And off topic, black VE SS ute with front driver's side completely smashed in at corner of La Trobe and Spencer being picked up by a tow truck. Played chicken with an old white Corolla and lost by the looks of it.

Friday bump. Asking $190 ono.

Thanks for the feedback! Sorry, I wasn't clear: -1.3 deg is the minimum negative camber they could get i.e. it wouldn't go any closer to the target of -0.5 deg. So it looks I either need to install the second eccentric bushing kit on the outer bushes on the uprights, which I'd really rather not, or get some adjustable camber & toe arms with a better range instead. D'oh. +1.5 is what's on the report so I assume that's on each side. It's not a massive difference so it should be fine. Thanks again!

Hi all, I did a bit of suspension work on my R34 GTT sedan recently and got a full alignment done last week, here's the report: Front Camber: L -1.04, R -1.30 Front Caster: +7.00 Front Toe: -0.5 (to reduce bump steer?) Rear Camber: -1.30 (maxed out) Rear Toe: +1.5 The car feels great & steady and doesn't hunt/tramline how it used to. However, the settings seem a bit different to the classic Sydneykid recommendations: Front Camber: -1.00 Front Caster: 7.00 Front Toe: 0.00 Rear Camber: -0.5 Rear Toe: 2.00mm in on each side SAI: 9.00 What I'd like to hear from the suspension experts is what these differences mean? ... For reference, here the full suspension spec: BC Racing BR Type coilovers: 6 kg front, 5 kg rear spring rates Ride height: front 350mm hub to guard (25mm drop), rear 335mm hub to guard (30mm drop) ARC swaybars: front 28mm hollow, rear 25mm hollow, Fulcrum SuperPro SPF1869K rear camber kit: inner OEM bushes replaced with eccentric bushes on both the upper control arm and radius arm Thanks in advance!

I ended up doing this myself and there's no better advice than the above, don't do it! It's a bloody mongrel of a job! But if you absolutely must, here's some tips: The correct location for 1 kit (4 pairs of bushes & 4 crush tubes) is as per my original post: inner bushes in the upper control arms & radius arms. You will need to get all four arms out in order to replace the bushes. This is the first headache and took me a whole afternoon. You'll need good quality 19mm & 17mm sockets, couple of breaker bars, extensions (metal pipe works well), ring spanners, ratchet spanners, lots of WD40 etc. You can't get a socket around some of the bolts/nuts either so ring spanners are a must. There are 8 pairs of nuts+bolts and once they're cracked you're finally getting somewhere... Don't even bother without a workshop press. I had access to a 15ton one and it did the job... I ended up using 17/19mm long sockets to push out the original crush tubes and break the rubber bushing. However, this is not the right way - you'll need to get the outer metal sleeves out, too! This is NOT clearly said in the Whiteline instructions Once I realised this I didn't have the press anymore and had to use a vice + anvil for the sleeves and it sucked ____s bigtime. In hindsight, the best way would be to find 2 sizes of thick metal pipe: 1 the exact outer diameter of the metal sleeve, and the other the exact inner diameter of the arm end. Put the arm in the press and heat the arm end on the outside with a butane torch to expand it. When hot, use the press to push out the original bush together with the metal sleeve as one unit. Once the original bushes along with the sleeves are out, the rest is easy - the only easy part of the whole process... Paint any exposed metal, lubricate the arm ends & new pushes and pop them in. I set all offset bushes to 6 o'clock (180 degrees) and got a full 4-wheel alignment done the following week. ... Now even with the camber kit (+ factory camber setting maxed out) I still have -1.3 deg camber in the rear when it's ~30mm lowered. It's better what it was but far for the desired -0.5 deg... For the cost and effort, adjustable aftermarket camber + toe arms sound like a far better solution. Photos follow: 1. Cracking the toe arm inner nut 2. Cracking the toe arm outer nut 3. Upper control arm in the press‚ with sockets to support the arm & push out the original bush (don't try this at home kids) 4. The metal sleeve of the original bush is finally out, ye bastard 5. The original bush exploded ... This should have been taken out in one unit 6. Various improvised tools for the job. The imperial socket in the middle has the exact same diameter as the metal sleeve. 7. New bushes finally installed 8. LH arms back in place 9. RH arms back on the car So yeah hope this helps someone else ... but seriously, don't do try this at home!

Just a quick update on this, the front swaybar is now in and works fine. All clearances are good and the end links are actually more straight (vertical) than with the OEM front swaybar, go figure. See pics below. Now, SuperPro don't make the front bushes in 28mm and supplied me with 27mm items. Therefore there's a bit more material around the bar than there'd be with the correct size bushes, which means that the D brackets wouldn't close properly and you couldn't get the rear nuts on. I ended up grinding 1-2mm off the top of each bush (the tapering bit) and voilà, in it went! Thanks again for the input everyone, I hope this helps somebody else.

Hi guys, I've got a full set of 4 King Springs for sale: Front: King Springs KDFL-101X Rear: King Springs KDRL-61 To suit: R34 GTT, most likely R33 Gts-t, maybe others (no guarantees - please check catalogue yourself) Reason for selling: Got coilovers Condition: Ok, some scrapes and dirt, see pics below Location: Melbourne inner Price: $200 ono, cash on pick up only. Will not post, sorry. Please PM if you're interested. I had these on my R34 GTT Sedan for about 9k kms with OEM shocks. The drop was as follows (hub to guard): Front: 375mm to 341mm = 34mm Rear: 366mm to 328mm = 38mm See pics below. These are easy to install (see DIY thread here), all you need is spring compressors and some basic tools. Car on OEM springs: Car on these King Springs: These are the springs for sale:

My wheels look like in mlr's photo so it should be alright. Yep, just pulled rear upper control arms out today, trying to get some eccentric SuperPro bushes onto them tomorrow to adjust Maybe that'll make it look a bit more decent, too. Thanks guys, did you have any photos by any chance? Sounds like 10mm might be enough and avoid rolling the guards ... Do they make hub centric spacers in 10mm?

Hi all, Does anyone run spacers on their R34 GTT on stock wheels? Can you share some photos please? Just interested in what they might look like ... and no, not keen on changing to a different set of wheels. There's a fair bit of distance between the wheel and the guard in stock form: You could possibly slot in a 20mm hub centric one in the rear and still have clearance?

I looked into this last weekend, how tight are the control arm & radius arm bolts and nuts?! Any ideas on how to crack them? Also, I couldn't see an adjusting bolt on the radius arm like there is on the upper control arm - see pic below. What happens if you install an eccentric bush (crush tube) without an adjusting bolt? ... Thanks R31Nismoid, I'll get in touch with TruTrack for the alignment.

Thanks GTSBoy - Sounds like there's no easy way to compare unless you know the wall thickness of the hollow bar. I am basically trying to work our whether there's much difference in stiffness between the 22mm solid OEM bar and the 28mm hollow ARC bar. My guess is 'yes' but exactly how much is anyone's guess... Any thoughts on whether putting in a 35mm longer swaybar will kill the OEM end links? What's an acceptable angle for the end links anyway, are they supposed to be pretty much straight up when stationary? Thanks again!

Finally got around installing these on the weekend. Based on some initial driving it seems like a good choice, not too stiff and more compliant + less crashy than the OEM shock & King Spring combo. I set the front halfway between hard and soft and the rear to 10 clicks from full soft (1/3 of the way). At this stage I'm definitely glad I didn't go with the standard F:8 / R:6. This said, I reckon spring rates aren't directly comparable between different setups. Shock travel and the size of the spring must also play a role - in other words typical coilovers will need stiffer springs to compensate for the lack of travel. Just compare the OEM front shock + King Spring on the left to the BC Racing on the right:

All rightie, I finally got around trying to install these puppies and more questions popped up: Looks like the ARC 28mm front swaybar is about 35mm longer than the OEM item and the end shape is slightly different too, see pics below. Could this be a GT-R item? I tried putting it on but couldn't quite close the D brackets, and I'm not too sure if the original end links will like that much stretch. I'm also concerned about the ends fouling the control arm and/or radius rod... I might have another go this weekend, what do youse think? Also, turns out the OEM bars are solid whereas the ARC ones are hollow so they're not directly comparable. Does anyone have a formula for solid to hollow e.g. 20mm solid ~= 25mm hollow etc.? The ARC 25mm rear swaybar went on without a hitch along with the spherical end links. I set it to the softest (outermost) setting to dial out some of the original understeer but go into oversteer. Based on a quick drive it seems reasonable but needs some more testing. See pics below. Oh yeah all bushes are Fulcrum SuperPro ordered through Tuspeed. Front swaybar ARC vs OEM front swaybar ARC vs OEM front swaybar ARC vs OEM front swaybar length difference OEM front swaybar and end link Rear swaybar ARC vs OEM rear swaybar ARC rear swaybar and end links installed