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Intermittent problem starting when car is warm - exact same problem happened to me in my 300zx (z32 TT). Does yours stink like fuel when it's trying to start and occasionally run like s--t? Mine did. Problem turned out to be the coolant temp sensor - actually, the sensor itself was fine, the wiring just near the sensor had corroded. The coolant temp sensor was intermittently failing. When the car was cold it was fine, because the ecu thought it was cold. WHen the car was actually warm, it would basicaly attempt cold start up and dump heaps of fuel in. Because the sensor would work intermittently, sometimes it was fine and sometimes not. At first, it would struggle to start, but then be ok. It deteriorated until it became a problem when running. Cut out the corroded wire, reattached to the sensor, and it was all fine.

As per the above post, given the fact that your power band will be moved up between 6,000 and 8,000+ rpm. I am running 272 deg cams at 10.5 mm lift and these are probably not enough to support such high rpm operation. Their efficiency range is much lower rpm, probably coming on at between 3 and 4000 rpm, which is suited to my longer-stroke, slower revving 3.1 and smaller turbos. Yes going bigger with cams means more doughy down bottom - it will be slower off boost than a VL commodore - but for that size turbo you are optimising for high RPM operation. I think the above suggestion about 280 deg would be the minimum, as you will need big duration to maintain 'acceptable' ramp angles. And your mum probably won't be impressed if you throw her the keys to drive it down to the shops, as per your thread about the turbos, but that's a given for this setup.

OK I did a search on "radiator" and "bleed" and this was the most relevant thread. I too am a bit confused about the procedure for bleeding the rb26 (in an R32 GTR - actually its an rb26/30, but anyway). This thread looks to be talking about opening the bleed screw with a socket. Based on the descriptions of where the bleed screw is, mine seems to be an allen head bolt (near a small gold sticker that says "never open while hot" - which is near the fuel pressure reg). Maybe someone replaced it? anyway. My questions are: 1) Is my descrption of the bleed screw location right? Maybe I should post a picture? 2) what is the actual procedure for doing the bleeding? eg do you crack the bleed screw while the motor is cold and let it get up to temp, or will it push air out simply because the water pump is operating and the bleed screw is between the water pump and the thermostat? Or is it some other procedure? 3) how does one prevent coolant from pouring out the bleed screw and all over the engine bay? 4) any other hints?

I'm not going to repeat everything that's been said about the -5's (HKS 2530's), but will add: Twin low-mount 2530's I was running 2530's on my stock capacity rb26 with stock cams and aftermarket bolt-ons. I found it to be perfectly driveable, and it would have been even better had I been running tubular manifolds. They were truly bolt-on... As many on here have said, with cams and head setup, these are capable of 380-400wkw. I fail to see how roadside inspection (or even pit inspection, for that matter) could defect them unless they dismantled the car. T04z single turbo whereas, a T04z, although it has many great things to reccomend it, is not bolt-on. You will need a mounting kit to go from the turbo to the intercooler, and of course exhaust down pipe and some replacement for the y-pipe. And it will be all too obvious to defecters. FInally, a word on turbo shuffle. The twin 2835s will need a custom made/fitted pair of turbo manifolds with a balance pipe to avoid turbo shuffle. And as has been pointed out, in order to low mount them, basically need to remanufacture the inlet tract to make it fit. Which, if you are doing yourself, is probably fine, but if paying someone else, not worth it. So really the sensible choices are between 2530's in low mount configuration, or t04z and probably keep the twin-low-mount setup handy in the shed in the event of getting a defect.

Hey all my R32 GTR undertray is cracked and ruined and the brake ducts on one side are missing. If anyone by any chance has one in good condition they're interested in selling, please let me know. I really only want one that's in good nick. It seems like a bit of an awkward thing to post hence I'm asking in the ACT section rather than general for sale. Best way to contact me is shoot me a message on 0415 838 790 including price. Cheers Andrew

Just to add fuel to this fire... THe rb blocks are big, cast iron blocks, and in Canberra the weather gets ridiculously cold. My situation was an r32 GTR with hks 2530s. When I was running the OEM tune with upgraded turbos, on my way to work there was a stretch of road I would cruise on at ~2000 rpm or whatever it is, in 4th gear at 60 or 70. There was a given throttle position that would hold constant speed. Until the car switched into cold map, and then it would suddenly start accellerating. It was that abrupt, you would wait, wait ... and then it was like someone pulled the handbrake off, as above. Until it switched it would drive all doughy and crap. Fixed through installation and tune of Vipec. IN summary, even rb26's in factory tune (did the bigger turbos have something to do with it? I dunno) run shart when they're cold.

I agree, based on experience with L6 engines (admittedly in NA form) it really helps driveability. with today's modern ecus and more reliable fuel quality an rb20 should be able to handle a bump in compression and still run decent boost.

^^ Ditto. NVCTS or RB26 head with ITBs and solid lifters and bigger cams.

Leaving aside the issue of spings etc, remember that you need enough physical room in the cylinder head casting to swing the cam lobes. I think 10mm lift is getting close to the limit, if not over already. Mine are 10.5 mm and need to modify the cam tunnels (ie remove the lip on the edge of the cylinder head where the cams sit). I don't think it's feasible to swing a die grinder around with the head still attached to the motor so might be something to think about.

Whether you go with the Lewis engines option or do it yourself, I can see the advantages to retaining the stock engine block, even if purely from a block fitment/legality point of view. Fitting taller engine blocks in r32's always ends up being a pain in the ass. Also, going from a 2.0 to a 2.2 is, in my view, not worth 'stuff all' especially in the driveability stakes - its a 10 per cent increase in swept volume. If you have the engine apart anyway IMHO it's not a great marginal increase in effort/cost. So I think I understand where the OP is coming from. My only suggestion would be, instead of trying to make an rb20 head flow, is there some way of grafting on an RB26 head? You get solid lifters and bigger cams, and they're pretty cheap these days. And you known they flow awesomely. Also it gives you the side entry plenum (I presume you are, or are going to be, running a FMIC). Otherwise the rb25 with vct could be a goer. I know there were problems putting small-bore heads on big-bore rbs (ie putting rb20 twin cam heads onto rb30s) but is the problem the same in reverse? ie if running an rb26 head on a small bore rb20 block would it be neccessary to take the bore out or modify the head or some combination of the two?

Was it a gunmetal grey one?

I'm also thinking of doing these cam baffles - does anyone know if there's an upper limit on cam size that will clear the baffles? Put another way - does anyone know for sure whether 10.5 mm lift cams will present a problem? Anyone fitted 10.5 mm or bigger?

I think the main point from the OP is that he'd be paying a workshop to do it. Honestly, you may as well hand over your wallet, bend over and drop your daks. I really can't see how you are going to come out ahead - $$-wise, kw-wise - getting a workshop to do the conversion. They charge for every hour they spend. Even if you were doing it yourself in your shed it would be questionable. At least then the risk would be your time rather than $$. If you are dead set on getting a GTS-4 conversion, wait for one already done to pop up, it's bound to happen.

To be clear, the reason the crank is pressurising is that blow-by is getting past the rings - but, that can happen even on a relatively OK motor. The fact that it's pressurising the crank to the point of the dipstick popping out may be a cause for concern. The pcv valve (positive crank case ventilation valve) is intended to vent the crank pressure. If the valve is gunked up, it won't be doing that job properly. Not hard to remove and clean, check operation. An incorrectly plumbed catch can will stop the thing venting if it's effectively plumbed in a loop. Basically you want to leave the factory route between the PCV valve and the inlet tract the same, and just intercept it at some point with a catch can. The basic route should not be altered.

r32 GTR, Rb26/30, 380rwkw (dyno'd in rwd mode), 272 deg cams, HKS 2530's, Vortex 98 pump fuel. About 15 litres per 100km normal driving, about 20 litres/100km if I'm abusing. Not really highway but canberra driving is kind of like highway driving, I avoid stop-start traffic wherever at all possible. Definite increase in consumption from rb26, but other factors like cams would have affected it (esp. low rpm cruising efficiency).

LOL, unless you're like me and "upgraded" when you happened to find one of the exhaust wheels inside the cat converter...

I had similar symptoms once on my z32 300zx. Turned out it was the water temp sensor. More accurately, the wiring going to the send (immediately before the plug). Of course, not the gauge sender, the actual ECU temp sender. It had corroded out and wasn't getting any connectivity, so the car always thought it was in cold start mode. Ran like absolute s--t, then cut out corroded section reattached to plug and was all good.

Most of the traffic regulations in Australia are offences of strict liability, but not strict and absolute. That is, there are common law or statutory defences available. In my case, I had a common law defence of 'honest and reasonable mistake' available, because I was in a car with a malfunctioning speedometer and had no other cars on the road to give a reference point, and had no prior tickets in that car. Other defences are that the conduct was reasonably neccessary to avoid an accident. Check your local regulations, it may be spelled out in the regs itself. THis would apply where, for example, you pulled out to overtake and the car sped up. I'm not saying this is what happened, just an example of something that would fall within that category. You could look up the regs themselves (it will specify which Act in the ticket) or hire a lawyer.

My fuel consumption in the rb26 was around 10L/100kms and increased to around 15L/100km in the rb30 build (but that build also significantly upgraded the cams and different clutch as well, so heavier mass to rotate on the crank).

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/275548-andrews-r32-gtr-bolt-on-build-thread-phase-i-of-my-mods/page__st__60 22psi. Anyhow, the main point is, the turbos are now the major bottleneck in the system, but the HKS2530's are capable of making that kind of power on a 3.0, even with stock cast iron manis.

My recommendation is, (assuming you have the garage space) spend $350 on a heavy duty engine crane and $200 on a set of 1/2 inch drive sidchrome sockets. Another $50 on a good condition used engine stand. Another $200 on a torque wrench if you don't know anyone that has one. Rip the motor out yourself. Read the factory service manual on how to disassemble. Label every part you pull off in a ziploc bag and have them sitting in order of removal. Pull down the block and take it to a workshop to get the bores measured. IF neccessary, get it machined oversize and order oversize pistons. What you lack in experience you will make up for in terms of being s--tscared to do anything wrong - if you are putting it together yourself, you will be so worried about fsking something up you will check everything, like, 10 times before you put it back. ALso it's your car so you won't cut corners. WOrkshops won't do this. My 2c.

I am running 383 kw at the rear treads (dyno'd in RWD so as not to detonate front diff) with twin HKS 2530's on an rb26/30 setup. Still running (ported) OEM cast iron manifolds. Very responsive. With tubular manifolds (expremes or similar) i reckon could be even more responsive.

I wrote this a while ago, might be relevant to your situation: http://autospeed.com/cms/title_GTR-Revisited/A_111537/article.html As said above, it's probably easier to remove the turbos. If for no other reason, than with the turbos out, you can be sure you get a nice even clamp with the bolts onto the turbo/dump gasket. Removing turbos is not actually that hard if you carefully read the factory instruction manual and follow the sequence of removing stuff. Also, remove the power steering pump - it seems like pointeless work but trust me it makes the job that much easier. Also invest in a set of ratcheting spanners.

Here's a noob question, as I am just in the process of having a mac boost solenoid and twin pump surge tank setup fitted to run more than 17psi... say I want to run 22-25 psi, is that going to cause issues with the factory BOVs?

THat looks like a quick and dodgy fix done with the plenum and all else in situ. I can sympathise - sometimes I look at my engine bay and think CBF. My engine bay has it's fair share of zipties.