(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Farken mad car! Feel the power of the 1JZ-GTE! Nice mid size car with the comfort and power to pull, which was all put to the ground with its full time 4WD System.

Ok just had a quick chat to him... Judging from your 2nd post, it sounds like a Steering Wheel Sensor / Steering Angle Sensor (Same thing). The Vehicle Speed Sensor... I think it is near the gear box or that area... But my mechanic he has never changed one cuz that sensor hardly plays up... Also I remember him saying that if the Vehicle Speed Sensor is playing up, your speedo will not work / read the speed you are going, so you won't know how fast you are driving. The HICAS light can relate to a few areas in the car, Power Steering Sensor, to check your Power Steering Fluid. Steering Wheel Sensor / Steering Angle Sensor. Wheel Alignment, car is not driving straight. Just get your mechanic to re diagnose the HICAS and see how you go...

^^It's should, same car but one is N/A and the other is Turbo. Just interchange the boot lids with a spoiler on it. But 2 door R34s can only interchange with 2 doors R34's only cuz I think the 4 door boot lids are slightly different as the rear tail lights are a different shape, slightly...

Lower it for sure, 17" or 18" TE37 Wheels, see if you can find the Nissan Factory Aero body kit, they usually look nice. Here is llama au (Juliette's) car. It one of the best subtle body kits to give the clean look you want IMO.

Cool! Post progress and finished pics!

There could be a HICAS Plug, near the Steering wheel sensor... It probably all interlinks together... There have been a few HICAS issues with aftermarket steering wheels, but you saying you got a Nissan Series 3 wheel... It should not make too much difference as it is a Nissan Factory steering wheel. Yeah if the HICAS light was on and stayed on after starting the car, then there will be a bit of a problem, but since it switched off for you after starting it up, there must be just a little hiccup in the system... Also, try cleaning the Steering Wheel Sensor, that helped me, from memory my mechanic used some WD40 and then compressed air to blow dry it. OK, here is what I did to isolate the HICAS problem that I had... Check Powersteering fluid Check Tires Check Wheel Alignment If HICAS light is still on, Run a diagnostics Cleaned out steering wheel sensor, it helped but the HICAS light was still coming up when I did a full lock left turn, before cleaning it out it was as soon as I turned the wheel slightly left. Run Diagnostic again The diagnostics was be able to read the degrees of the steering wheels sensor, when the steering wheel is at centre position, it should read 0 degrees, but it did not, it was about 30 to 50 degrees out (from memory), this was after the wheel alignment, so my mechanic re-adjusted the tire rods to take everything back to 0 degrees. This might help to solve your problem so the car does not pull to one side... As for the Vehicle Speed Sensor... I might have to ask my mechanic when I see him tomorrow and ask him if he can answer that one.

No worries man! If you can't sort it out just get rid of the HICAS System all together, LOL! A lot of ppl hate it and it really is just a parking aid when you try to park your car... All the best and let us know how you go!

No worries!

Yeah right... Ok. Sure, start with the Vehicle Speed Sensor. Again I am unfamiliar where the HICAS is in the R33 but in the R32 there is a Unit in the boot, under the rear parcel shelf in between the rear speakers... Take a look and see... The Steering wheels sensor is located behind the boss kit, inside the unit where your indicator stalk is just before the dash... Again for R32 GTR is like that, R33 should not be too different. Can your mechanic help you out too?

Ah ok I get what your saying now! Haha! Yeah you gota pull the flares off right, other wise looks tacky but its better for Skylines just to roll the guard lips / or just roll the guards.

I guess V-Spec II's and ADM R32 GTR's hold there own value in their own way. V-Spec II's hold value because there was only 1,303 (Approx) which were made and becoming a collectors item. ADM R32 GTR's hold value due to only being a limited of 100 cars delivered to local Nissan Dealers + I usually see the ADM R32 GTR's in stock condition / unmodified, which means it can hold a bigger value. Standard R32 GTR's, Nismo Edition's, V-Spec's and V-Spec II's all came with ceramic internals for their Turbo's. Only the R32 GTR N1's came with steel turbines. It is hard to tell about the Km's, best way to tell is by seeing if the Speedo is the factory 180km/h speedo as thats what all Japanese cars came out with at the time. Also check the condition of the car in and out and the engine. 1993 model R32 GTR with 49000km's on the clock... That's about a 16 year old car which would have done an average of 3062.5 km's per year, probably driven about 255km's per month and about 63km's per week... I would say it is a weekend car. But the condition of the car in and out and the engine will tell if it is legit or not.

You should have a LSD light in your dash, in the centre between your Speedo and Tacho. If it is making a "doo doo doo" noise and both wheels are spinning, it might sound like you have a Lock Diff. 1 or 2 Way Lock Diff, I am not too sure...

R32 Rb25de engine R32 rb25de block, fully cleaned and bored and checked. R33 Rb25det strengthened and balanced crank R33 Rb25det Shot Peined Rods, Arp Rod Bolts Acl 87mm Forged Pistons Acl Race Bearings N1 Oil Pump, Gates Race Belt Acl 1.3mm Metal Head Gasket, HKS Rb26 Metal throttle body gaskets, Custom Copper exhaust gasket, Gizzmo Rb20det Thermal intake gasket Rb25de head, fully reconditioned. Franklin 270' Cams 9.5mm Lift, R33 Gtr Valve Springs, Adjustable Cam gears. Rips Adapter plate for Gtr Throttles Rb26 6x Throttles and Plenum Custom Steam Pipe High Rise Manifold (currently being made) Garret Gt3076r turbo (0.86), Tial 44m Wastegate Full 3' Exhaust R32 Greddy FMIC kit, Trust Type R Bov Oil cooler and relocation kit Bosch 120amp alternator (bracket being lengthened to fit nicer) Bosch Race Coils, Greddy EBC Link G4 Storm Ecu and 5 Bar map sensor (with wire in loom, to be wired in) Rx7 550cc Injectors (havent decided on fuel rail yet) Nismo Coppermax Single plate clutch Kit R32 Gtr Box (rwd converted(still in the process)) Full R32 5 stud brake conversion with R200 Diff (3x2) Cusco Rear camber and toe arms Redline front castor and front lower adjustable arms(still thinking wether to use or not) Think theyre D2 Coilovers all round 25mm Front s13 guards. 50mm Rear guards (rear cut out for guards) S13 front lights, and full bodykit (in need of some scrap repairs) NzKw front Bucket seats (drivers adjustable rail) Currently sitting on 19x8.5 and 19x9.5 Dtm Hiro's, will be going 17's Custom stereo install And a GT wing in rear for some hopeful traction LOL! Nice, Where you going to find a RB25DE out of a R32, unless you find a R32 GTS-25 or Type-X, S, XG. Why bother with the N/A block, when you can just go for the R33 GTS-T RB25DET engine conversion... RB25DET conversion will be a good start and then start upgrading that. This Sil-80 is drift pig for sure.

Hah! Yeah for sure. Was that scan from an old magazine article?

Sif! Looks fcuking tuff on a KE70 and AE71 Rolla. With a lowered ride hight, wide wheels and a decent camber, it will make a nice drifter.

LOL! Awesome. RIP 911

Yeah awesome, looks nice! Hows the engine, oil and water temps, is the bonnet effective in keeping them cooler? Or more so venting the heat out...

^^Yeah right, awesome! Keep it Satin Black! Mods on the Sil-80?

Interesting... Wheel alignment maybe? Turning itself? Meaning if you drive straight the car will start to pull towards one side..? HICAS is design so when the car is traveling at a high speed (80km/h +) I think, the rear wheels will turn in 1 full degree in the opposite direction of the front wheels, BUT that is only when going around a large bend in the road or hammering it through a corner... Just from speculation / guessing... I still believe there is a Steering Wheels Sensor in the R33 GTR's. Check your Steering Wheels Sensor, it maybe out of alignment and the HICAS computer thinks the car is turning but it is actually not at all...

Yeah no worries! Here is what it looks like after the Paint Strip. So much better! Some ppl liked the black painted intercooler and said it looked tuff / sleeper, but I could not resist a bare metal cooler hehe!!

r32line, we can see the clear winner there LOL! Super Drager, that was a good video.

Ah ok... Convert the R32 GTR to RWD, remove the fuse..? New Z-Tune style bonnet eah Sl!m? Looks tuff as!

Fcuk yeah! Your Sil-80 looks bad ass! Satin black paint job FTW! What are you fabricating? A wider body kit / guards? It looked great the day you bought it! LOL! Caldina's are fun, I have been in one, kinda like a turbo charged Corolla Sportivo with 4WD.

^^Sharing with other forum members on what they know best..? Doing a good job I guess...

Not sure about the R33 GTR, it might be similar to the R32 GTR as I went through a few diagnostics with mine. The R32's have a Steering wheels sensor and the brake fluid sensor, which can trigger off the HICAS Light. What's wrong with your HICAS? Does it only come on when the car is started up, whilst driving, turning the steering wheel..?