N-DAWG

Because it's a GTT (Turbo) not a GT (N/A)

R34 GT doesn't have HICAS (4 wheel steering) Traction Control (TCS) or Limited Slip Diff (LSD)

Nice Samon! Another DE+t on the way I've heard that they start coming on boost at 1800revs and variable timing gives a pleasant suprise when it kicks in the first time Looking forward to seeing your results...I'm hoping to have my DE+t done early next year...just done my brake upgrade couple of days ago though. I have a nice big deep desk at work with plenty of room for storing parts...I've been told that we're not a wreckers lol As for swapping pistons...unless you want more outright power again, I like the idea of the responsive +t setup for daily/street driven car. But hey, when the time comes that new pistons are needed, you can always do high compression forged internals and so the engine build begins. Back to topic though, if it was me I'd more than likely spend the money on the +t option, though I do love the R34, but it's the thought of having a car that can be built up to the way I want it that makes that option attractive to me. I've seen a number of +t conversions done all with good results. A good tune and not flogging it contantly it seems they will live a long and prosperous life. Take for example 666DAN who got 70,000+kms out of his and it's probably still going. Wytsky has been getting some pretty impressive results too! Dollar for dollar comparison between the +t and GTT option, R33 GTS+t looks pretty attractive to me.

A lot of people are concerned about resale value, which is all well and good...but how long do you plan to keep the car for? 3 years? 5 years? 10 years? I don't have any plans to sell my R34 in the future, which is why I bought a 4 door sedan model so resale value is of lower priority. I spend money make it the way I want, why would I want to sell? So long as my insurance agreed value is what it should be! If you plan to drive it for a few years, then sell it again later for a new car...I think it goes without saying that in even a few years value of the car will drop even more, and if turbos continue to drop, I know I wouldn't be in a hurry to sell a car that I've invested in modifying to such a standard. Think about it, N/A skylines are already seeing more presence in the Australian market due to the demand from P Plate restrictions. In a few years there'll be a lot more N/A's on the road, the value of those cars will have dropped a fair amount too (price/availabiltiy). A turbo conversion costs a fair amount of money that you can't really recover too easily, particularly with labour and tuning costs. I think you probably need to also decide, turbo or N/A aside, what do you really want...an R33 or R34? Cause both can be modified for performance, handling brakes etc.. Some want a R33 and that's it they simply don't like the R34's for looks or whatever reason. Also you mentioned that you were looking at buying a GTT from a dealer...I'm not familiar with how they price their imports, but even if you get 12.5k for your R33 now, I think you should be prepared to spend closer to 20k if you're buying a GTT from a dealer. 8-9 grand difference? I'd be modifying what you have now. Rebuild, turbocharge, suspension and brakes, amongst other things as budget allows. It's a more time consuming process to build up the car you have now, compared to just selling and buying a R34 turbo out of the box, but the satisfaction of having a R33 GTS4 that you've done the hard work of getting it the way you want with the suspension you want and the components you want.... I like the idea of building up the R33 but that's me.

I assume that full exhaust means catback? Guessing that you have a 2.5" exhaust, which while it would work with a turbo would be somewhat restrictive. Maybe you are best to see what you can get for your car and get a R34GTT, plus you'll have a newer car as well. I'm not sure about 14k, as someone said in another thread, a car is only worth as much as that person is prepared to pay for it. You can pick up R34 N/A's for less than 14. If you find someone who is really keen to buy a R33 GTS4 and is waiting for a good one to come along then that will be a bit more in your favour.

What Eug said. Plus you know that what you have now is in good condition, no suprises when you buy a turbo car. If you're wanting to fork out for the upgrade to a R34 GTT, I would even consider doing the turbo conversion on your R33 and going that extra step on the engine with pistons etc to make it stronger.. and then you know that you'll get more life out of the car. I notice in a previous topic you posted you were looking at doing the engine swap. Have you decided whether you want to keep your All Wheel Drive? What was the outcome of researching the stagea engine swap? Unless you can find a buyer for your old engine to reclaim costs, I would rather keep a car that you know is in good working order, and build on that. Of course you also have other things to consider like staying 4 stud, or 5 stud conversion with brake upgrade... Sit down and work out your options on paper with estimated $$$ (don't be too conservative on that cause things don't always run to budget), and genuinely think about how far you would take your R33 GTS4 if you were to build up on that. That is, will you do the low boost conversion and be done with it? Or will you go the whole hog rebuilding the engine for more power or drop in a RB25DET? Are you going to have to upgrade the gearbox and other components to cope then? Will the brakes keep up or are you going to need to spend more on a 5 stud bigger brake upgrade? How far do you want to take suspension and handling etc.. etc.. Once you start modifying an N/A Skyline particularly with intent to work up to a turbo conversion, the costs increase pretty quickly! Whilst an R34 GTT is going to be of better standard in most of those areas, you will still end up wanting to upgrade but at least you have a good base to work on. If your car isn't just in good mech order but also good physical condition, and the dollars to upgrade the above just happens to be very close to a R34 GTT upgrade... I think I'll take the modified path and at least it will be the way you like.

Check out the for sale section, I'm sure that I've seen someone selling new whiteline rear camber bushings there. I got my front whiteline camber and castor bushings on ebay from Online Performance Autos. Rear ones are only $135+postage http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R32-...1713.m153.l1262 Not TOO much more than $99, but a lot less than $253 and at least you know the Whiteline bushings are good quality. If you're going to pay to get them fitted and adjusted, you might as well do all the bushings in one go, unless your front camber and castor isn't out too much. My front was way out, but rear was fine so I didn't do the rears, but for the cost of labour I sort of wish I'd done them in one go.

Just an udpate, I had the brake conversion done yesterday, and everything went smoothly except the fronts they modified the exisiting uprights/hubs to suit the new calipers as opposed to changing them. Brake west provided braided lines as per the measurements I took, so if anyone else is wanting to do the same they would have the measurements for the lines. Rears were just changed over and it was noted that they removed the rear brake heat shields. Master cylinder was just a straight swap, which is ideal if you you are going from 280 / 265 rotors to a bigger size in both front and rear. Hope this helps others in the future

lol nice one cris An ECU reset (ignition off, disconnect negative terminal, brake 10-15seconds, reconnect) will allow the car to relearn the difference in air flow, which as Cris said on an N/A isn't going to make much difference. Unless you were upgrading extractors and catback system, and then the cat was creating a restriction, then you would probably want to look at gutting/changing the cat. Running rich for the sake of flames and SFA difference to your performance is a fine way to unnecessarily increase fuel consumption too What's the legalities on gutting out a cat anyways? Is it one of those things that's illegal if you get caught? Personally I would do it right and swap it to a high flow one should the need arise. If you're looking for low cost ways to increase the performance, look at making a CAI with a pod filter or even just swap the filter with a high flow K&N Panel or something similar. You'll probably notice more difference doing that then gutting the cat on an N/A, particularly if you've got an old standard filter.

Hey all Done my brake upgrade today, I now have for sale the following: R33 GTSt Uprights/Hubs - Paid $200, ended up having the R34 ones modified instead for new brakes. I'd like to get somewhat close to that figure. R34 GT Front Twin Piston Calipers Front RDA Plain 280mm Rotors to suit (Near New 3 months old) Front Bendix GCT's to suit (Near New 3 months old also) Factory Brake Lines to suit R34 GT Rear Single Piston Calipers 265mm rotors, below limit, not really asking anything will just include Rear Pads to suit, not sure how much worn. Factory Brake Lines to suit Master Brake Cylinder removed from same R34 GT Brakes are in good working condition, no problems, simply upgraded to bigger brakes in prep for turbo. Pickup from Brisbane, unless you seriously want to arrange a courier (it would be quite expensive given the weight of these items). Open to reasonable offers for the brake parts, however if I can get around $700 for the whole lot including uprights/hubs pickup I'll be very happy with that, keeping in mind that the fronts are barely used. I'll have photos up later on after picking the car up. Cheers Nathan

Would Twin Piston calipers of an N/A R34 be okay? They're to suit 280mm. I have 3 months old RDA Plain Rotors and 3 months old Bendix GCT's to suit as well. PM if interested, I am in Brisbane though.

The R34 Neo Auto is tiptronic. I remember seeing an R34 GT4 and it was a non-tiptronic auto. I'm not sure what the difference is in gearbox strength etc between those two though.

I'd like to see the R33 Skyline in Forza 2. Also agree with the tuning options mentioned above. This game is much better with the steering wheel..it's just a shame that Microsoft / Logitech can't come to an agreement (it seems) with supporting the G25! The Microsoft wheel aint that bad, but it aint that great either, not when it comes to a good sim like Forza 2. Oh and yes I'd like to be able to 'see' the performance modifications like exhaust and engine mods. Not suggesting it being like NFS games with glowing lights and chrome, but rather if you upgrade to a big turbo, it would be nice to see the change in the engine bay. Having a detailed interior view from the driver position would be sweet too.

I'm not sure about the GTT, but the GT Sedan was smaller than what was listed for GT Coupe, (280mm Front and 265mm Rear, as opposed to 297mm). Best thing to do would be measure them up to be safe. I just used two squares put together, measured the distance from one side of the rotor to the other. I was able to do that without removing wheels.

All sorted now, thanks for all the PMs guys Cheers Nathan

I know that suspension varies from GT and GTT in the R34, I learned this when I changed the shocks. When I called the garage that will be doing my turbo, they said that they just recently put R33 turbo brakes on a non-turbo R34 and I'd need the front uprights, 4 discs, 4 calipers, pads and lines. So I've been able to get a good price on front uprights & hubs, and 4 discs and pads with plenty of meat on them, and set of front and rear calipers still with lines in tact. So we'll see how it goes when I get them swapped over and I'll post back. Thanks for the help mate.

PM replied, Payment sent

Nice nice! Yeah I actually like the idea of driving what still looks like an ordinary non-turbo skyline (at least to those that can tell the difference), and knowing that you've got some nice power hidden away

Can these lines be made up to suit an R34 Sedan with R33 GTSt Brakes? In the process of getting parts for brake conversion and lines will be needed. Is there any difference between them besides the caliper fittings? Cheers

ECU would also need to be changed or altered. Why not look at a R33 GTS or even an R34? After you factor in the cost of changing the engine, new ECU and other things it might work out the same and have a newer car. Of course if the R32 is exactly what you want then that's fine too. Are you doing this with a view to convert back to turbo later due to p plate restrictions? If so then the costs of converting to non-turbo and then back again won't exactly be worthwhile. I ask this as someone else had previously lookeod at that option.

Good to hear, looks like things worked out in your favour in the end particularly with costs being you've been able to upgarde brakes and all...well done!

R33 GTSt Hubs & Uprights....Will you take $150 posted to Brisbane? PM reply please

R34 brakes would be nice, but the R33 GTSt brakes are a lot easier to come by and the price pays a factor here too, trying to upgrade without blowing budget out as I'm almost ready to do a turbo conversion. It seems that the R33 GTSt brakes are the best all round budget upgrade for a non-turbo R34. Is it easy to tell what size bolts are on the calipers without taking anything apart? If they are 12mm, shouldn't this mean that they should just be a bolt on caliper? Also with these uprights, I'm a bit unsure as to exactly what I need, whether I need just the upright arms or the hubs as well.

PM SENT RE: Brakes!

I'm looking to upgrade my brakes on my R34 Non Turbo as my fronts are 280 and rears are 265mm. Rather than start a new thread I thought it would be best to keep it in this one. It seems clear that the R33 GTSt brakes are the bolt on way to go, however, a garage in Brisbane that specialises in Jap imports has told me that I'll also need the uprights for the front brakes. Does this simply mean the upright arms? Or is it possible to just replace the rotors and calipers? If someone can point me in the right direction that will be awesome. Also if seems that all the rear brakes are the same and will bolt straight in nothing else needed? If someone can confirm that also? I'm not so concerned about brake line compatiblity right now as I've been wanting to change them anyway so I'll get custom lines made.