N-DAWG

Well I'm almost ready to have it all put in! Just waiting on FMIC and catch can to arrive, then need to try get a factory BOV or cheap but good plumback and pod filter. I also believe that I will need a silicon aftermarket or factory induction pipe that goes to the turbo inlet...or can the factory one be modified to suit? Also any recommendations for tuning places? I think Robin said he usually sends them over to APC, something close to slacks creek would be ideal to get it all done together. How driveable is an RB25DE+T without having the tuning and timing adjustments done straight away?

I thought that they'd be a bit more popular later on with restrictions and p platers wanting to drive skylines. Or maybe that would decrease the value of them with more in the market.

To answer your question of will it work: I believe MissR34 is using a PowerFC in her N/A R34. If you have an Auto though then you're pretty much limited to something like an eManage due to shift logic (I think that's correct). Is it worth it? Well Samon's pretty much nailed that question. There may be small gains to be made with the eManage on an R34GT with the mods you have, but I agree that you're probably better off investing the $400 elsewhere as the R34 ECU will adapt well to the breathing mods. Getting big gains from an N/A car doesn't come that easily, or rather cheaply. Don't forget you'll need a tune done as well to add to the cost. If you're planning on big mods like bigger cams, internal engine work, nitrous, or as Samon said a turbo conversion, then yeah Engine Management will help prepare it for that. The extent of how much you want to get out of the car power wise and the dollars you're prepared to spend will be the deciding factor of whether to go for a PowerFC or Piggy Back. If you're not planning on doing big mods like listed above, and you still want to spend said money....spend it on suspension. The cost of an e-Manage + Install + Tune will quite easily get you a set of Whiteline sway bars and put a bit extra on top again and you could get some lowered springs. Sway bars are probably one of the best bang per buck mods you can do to any car to help with handling and help make the most out of power already there. Ps. The turbo conversion is quite an attractive option in my opinion with an R34, one that I'm in the process of myself.

Grunta, I'm not sure about the ECU on the GTT vs NA on the Auto models. From my understanding you still need to run engine management? Someone might want to clarfiy that. How much are RB25DE's worth for resale? I'm just thinking what the cost for you would be to Buy half cut, deliver it, remove old engine, install new engine, then whatever else still needs to be done after that; vs keeping your engine, even still removing it and doing internal engine work. I'm not sure exact costs, but would that not be rather close to that of complete engine swap? A rebuilt GT-V I think would be better than simply swapping over for a DET, if you're looking at removing the engine.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/-t238477.html Pretty much sums it up

Nice..I like

If you are really desparate to get more power out of it, and you're willing to run the risk of modifying on a restricted licence, then internal engine mods would be the way to go, such as bigger cams and some adjustable cam gears. I guess you might be able to get away with upgrading the exhaust piping, and keeping a factory rear muffler so that it's still quiet and standard, but at least you'll help the flow. I believe Eug is using a factory turbo model exhaust. Helps things flow without the attention and added noise. I'm sure that authorities won't be able to tell the difference with that, it will look like a stock standard from factory exhaust. Throw in a K&N Panel Filter in the air box, don't put the K&N Sticker on it. It won't look any different when the bonnet is lifted. But for what it's worth, I stick by my suggestion before. It shouldn't be too diffidcult to sell an N/A Skyline later on due to p plate laws.

I see...so looks like pod it is then. So where does the RB25DE's AFM and intake piping come into the conversion? Also I'm not too worried about the sound, and I most certainly don't want an atmo bov. The Flyn plumback ones is what I was looking at, simply cause of the pricepoint for a new bov, and the ease of being able to buy one.

Well I've been looking at Plumb Back BOV's and it seems that the options are to try and get a factory BOV, or an aftermarket plumb back BOV. Flyn Performance have a plumb back BOV for $35 + Postage. Now given the cost, I'm a bit uncertain as to whether I should buy this BOV, or look at other options... Has anyone used the Flyn BOVs? For 7 pound boost, is it going to do the job and do it well? I'm looking at purchasing my front/dump from either Flyn or Just Jap, so combining postage costs would work out. The other question is air filters.. Will the stock N/A Air Box flow well enough for this application? I have a K&N Panel in mine now. I wouldn't mind going to an enclosed pod, I just want to know if I should go straight to the pod before tuning etc.. or would it make next to no difference fitting a pod filter later on after installation and tuning? Are the saber mesh pod filters any good? or stick with say an Apexi item?

As R33 Dude said, the cost using factory parts is quite cheap. The cost of using aftermarket parts such as a FMIC, exhaust etc.. will obviously bring up the cost substantially. If you look at it in that context, the cost of getting your N/A turbocharged using factory spec parts is very worth while if you are happy with that. It also gives you a starting point, and you can always build on that later with mandrel exhausts and FMIC's etc.. to get the most out of it. If you were to buy a turbo model, I'm sure that the time will come to upgrade the exhaust, upgrade the intercooler etc.. and if you factor all that in, the cost of going to a turbo model and then getting more out of the turbo model car can cost even more again. Unless of course if you have a completely stock standard N/A, and a stock standard Turbo model is fine for what you want, then it starts making a bit more sense to just swap the car. Now consider that getting power out of an N/A will mean upgrading the exhaust as a minimum, factor in the cost of upgrading the complete exhaust including extractors, add in piggy back ECU and tune (though you could probably get by without it), and you can quite easily get close to the cost of turbocharging with factory parts (not including labour). I think it's pretty obvious which is going to net more gains. Start adding bigger cams and engine work to really start extracting more power out of the N/A, and the cost blows right out considerably! For some getting the most out of an N/A is the way they want to go, and that's fine. Not every Skyline HAS to have a turbo. However, bolting on a turbo and a good tune will be the more cost effective way to get extra power. If I sold my Skyline today, bought a GT-T, started again with suspension, major service and other things to get it to a similar standard as what I have now, plus stamp duty and other associated costs that come with buying a new car, and then hope that the new skyline is in good condition and there's no suprises...the cost of doing that, I could take the conversion a step further and build a stronger turbocharged engine! Anyways, that's how I see it.

Yep too true! I bought my line for $13grand with 105,xxx kms. The only problems were leaking shocks, and discs were getting very close, and a couple of other minor things. Add the dollars I spent on getting suspension (shocks/springs/sways/bushings), new wheels and tyres, and now the turbo conversion, and I still come under what I would have probably spent on a GTT, and have the higher risk that comes with buying a used turbo car than an N/A Line. For what I want, it makes perfect sense

PM your way mate

How much have you done to your current skyline? From what I can see it's quite a nice looking skyline. If you've already started working on things like suspenion and done a lot of mechanical work, the cost of going to a new skyline and getting it back to that standard can be a costly one. Not to mention the cost of selling and buying a car as it is. You've already got the 3" exhaust. Notably in your other threads you were looking at changing this to a 2.5". If you want to go turbo having this 3" exhaust already will help you cost wise. How is your engine mechanically? Turbocharging an N/A and keeping it within safe boost limits with a good tune will see good results, and at least you know your car. If you're dad is a mechanic and labour isn't an issue, you could look at modifying the engine internals if you're really after outright power. Personally I prefer the idea of turbocharging my RB25DE with good engine management and tune, and having good useable power, rather than buying another used GT-T that I don't know the history off. You can always do an engine rebuild later down the track to get more power if need be, and have a good solid strong engine. How long till your restrictions are lifted? My advice would be to keep it as is for now, the money you would spend on N/A mods (eg. exhaust) look at getting suspension and handling right, and then turbocharge later when on your opens.

Awesome! My injectors and manifold arrived today, as did my turbo =] And it came with the actuator and it's assocaited bits. So at least I won't have to worry about that now! R33 Dude, you're lucky to have that help! Wish I had someone who was willing to help me out with changing a head gasket! I asked how much it would cost and decided against it lol Now all I need is intercooler, pipes, catch can, possibly oil cooler, BOV, and ignition harness. Yep the EManage only came with connector 1 harness =/ Still a good buy nonetheless. I might look at after xmas to get mine all done. Let the unwanted attention that's more present around xmas subside a bit first lol

Hey mate I've got the turbo, just got it today actually. I'm probably going to go aftermarket with the front / dump though. You wouldn't have a factory BOV though would you? I want to keep it all legal so a factory BOV or plumbed back after market BOV is on my list. Cheers Nathan

I think $350-400 is a reasonable budget for a good custom made cat back. Any extra money could really be put towards improving other parts of your cars performance. I'm not sure how much you'll get for your 2nd hand kakimoto, but being that it's an aftermarket item you should be able to get a decent figure for it. That's what I would do anyways..maybe put the extra $$ towards some extractors. Though extractors can be quite pricey once you add HPC and fitting, but you'll get more out of that then spending much more on the catback imo.

If I was still living in NSW I'd be on my green P's right now on a restricted licence. But because I got my P's before Queensland introduced the new system, having my licence transferred exempts me from the new rules and I'm still on the old system I found this out when I transferred my licence AFTER buying an N/A Skyline >_> At least I can modify it without any problems now

If you can get someone lined up to buy your old one at the same time, then you're in luck. Definitely don't let the exhaust shop keep the old one! I imagine the kakimoto one would be a bolt on exhaust, so it will be easy to remove and for the buyer to sell. Either way a new exhaust has to go on first though. Have a look at FS threads to see how much they usually go for. Check to see if there's any WTB's for R34 zorst, you might be in luck.

No wonder you're getting done by cops all the time! Bankstown + Skyline + Loud exhaust + non-enclosed pod filter. It sucks, but cops like those sorta cars =/ If it was me, I would get a 2.5" Mandrel Bent with resonators to tone it done. I'm even considering a high-flowing oval barrel twin tip muffler just to keep it looking factory when I get my exhaust done. You shouldn't have too much problem selling a R34 3" exhaust second hand, that should help fund the new system. As was mentioned previously, jap brand exhausts do have a lot of R&D put into them, which translates into $$$ plus you will also pay for the brand too to an extent. A custom made exhaust from your local reputable exhaust place will probably be made from materials more suited to Aussie conditions, and they should also really be ensuring it is within dB limits enforced by law so that you don't have any trouble.

RB25DET is a turbocharged engine. turbo = no no for p platers that come under restrictions.

Metal screams out modified intake. black piping going into a box looks more standard. If you're getting pulled up a lot by cops I'd go the latter. It sucks having to do things like this to prevent unwanted attention but sometimes it's better than the inconvenience of defects etc...

Direct image links: http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/l337z1ll4/845f_1.jpg http://i7.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/be/de/45dd_1.JPG Just remove that square box that connects to the intake, and replace that with the elbow. Keep the piping with the AFM and all. The first image is in the interesting pod filter setup thread.

Maybe use a metal elbow pipe. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...te-t232764.html That seems to be fairly close to where you need it to be, if you can get an elbow the right length then it should be sweet. Something like this (provided it's the same diameter) might help you extend, and it still retains flexibility to get it exactly where you need. Might need a bit of modding to get it right. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HOLDEN-COMMODORE-VT...1QQcmdZViewItem If you used a black elbow like that, combined with a black pod enclosure, it should look fairly standard and won't stand out too much next time a cop takes a look.

Hey, didn't realise that an update was released on the hoodies. I'll be happy to wait for both hoodies to be sent together and have the second hoodie done with the embroidery. Cheers

Which state are you in? Most P Plate laws = no performance modifications. Suspension and Brakes will help you make more use of the power you already have and really improve handling. eg. Sway Bars, lowered springs, coil overs, depends on what you want to do with your car, whether you want to be taking it out on the track or have a comfy daily driver as well. If you're serious about getting power you would probably be best to drive the R33 around as is, then upgrade to a turbo model later when you're on your open licence, or focus on other things to prepare it for more power and then modify it when you're on an open licence. There's a few stickies in this forum for getting more power out of an N/A, note that getting considerable gains from an N/A skyline can be quite expensive. Alternatively you could look at doing a turbo conversion later as well, something a number of people with N/A Skylines have done with some good results, something I'm in the process of doing. Have a read of the threads in this forum though as I think you'll find that most of what you're after has been covered.