N-DAWG

What's the difference between the N/A and GTT radiator? Is there much difference? I would to an extent base a decision on that. If Nissan have used the same radiator then go with that initially. After doing the conversion, see how it goes with the stock radiator, and then make a decision whether to invest in an aftermarket radiator.

niiiice!!! Well that clears things up then... I've seen exhausts listed as being for 2 door and others for 4 door specifically, but yeah now that I've got a second confirmation that makes things a bit easier with buying an exhaust now. Hey Vikz...you still selling your zorst? hehehe

And you're staying first quarter next year you'll have it all done?? Yeah Right!!! You won't last, you'll have all this in by xmas won't ya I'm still finalising a few things but I'm hoping to have up n running this month in time for Xmas Earlier would be better, should there be any other issues afterwards xmas wouldn't be the best time to sort them out lol Can someone confirm the difference between an R34 4 Door Catback Exhaust and a 2 Door? One workshop tells me that they will be able to supply a second hand jap catback and that it won't matter if it's a 2 door? Or would they just customise it a bit? Oh that's another thing I don't have yet either..a turbo timer. I guess these can be easily added later though.

Yay for mesh rims! Loving that front bar also!

It's been thought of before and it's not exactly do-able. If you used a thinner head gasket you'll raise the compression a bit, but for the cost of doing that and de-turboing, getting a factory / aftermarket exhaust manifold etc.. only to return it to the factory turbo set up later, it seems like a lot of time, labour and money. I'm not sure that the stock GTT ECU will be suitable either? Basically it will cost more than it's worth, it still won't drive quite like a non-turbo skyline, and to go back to a turbo means more costs etc.. again. What you would spend de-turboing a skyline, you might as well buy the n/a skyline now, then save for a turbo conversion and forged pistons later on. Besides, I think the rule is something along the lines of "an engine that has had its performance modified". Modifying a turbo engine, even if it is decreasing its performance, could still be classified as modifying. Whilst not necessarily skylines, there's a number of N/A cars out there that are still pretty good performance and P Plate Legal. Even an S13 would be a good Nissan to get around in for a while before buying a Skyline. I had a NX Coupe with an SR20DE as a first car for a couple of months before saving a bit and buying the R34 GT. I had plenty of practice on the company car (XR6 MKII) so I wasn't a stranger to N/A 6 Cylinder sports cars, but looking back I'm happy I started out with less power before stepping straight up to a turbocharged skyline. As some have said in other threads, learn to get the most out of an N/A by improving your driving before buying a turbocharged car.

very very slight though. I have 6000k in my car, and the white LED parkers look more blue then the head lights. At least with this kit anyways. The blue is unnoticeable when driving though. If it was it would frustrate me lol

Pretty much, just make sure the engine management you use can alter ignition timing as well, and a good tuner that is confident with tuning a DE+T. I'm doing mine hopefully next month. I've got 95% of the parts, the rest will happen during the build 7PSI seemed to be the safe boost level, but it seems that they can easily take more! Anyways, if you want more of a read there's a few of us on the turbo conversion path in the how to turbo thread

With restricted P Plate skyline owners coming to their full licence, I think interest in turbocharging N/A's is going to be a bit more common. dreamaaa, if all you have to wait for is a year, it might be best to hold out till then. You can save a bit more towards a GTT plus mods. That is of course if you don't buy a 180SX and get bitten by the modding bug, and start out with a stereo, then a pod filter, then put a catback, then upgrade headers, etc etc.. though you could buy a 180 and later drop in an RB...now there's a thought lol In my opinion though, if you were going to buy the R34 GT with plans to turbocharge it later, and you can hold off keeping it pretty much stock standard for that time, then you may be better off selling it to get the R34 GTT afterwards. For those of us though who have already invested a fair bit into our N/A Skylines, it makes sense to do the conversion. By start 2010 GTT's should drop a bit more in price, and hoepfully for those who want to sell their N/A's, with demand for non-turbo skylines for provisionals, the R34 GT hopefully shouldn't drop too much in value, unless the market gets saturated with them in which case it would just be another non-turbo skyline.

Nice turbo conversion looking at your sig! Are you still running stock internals though?

Hey Andy, not too sure with an R32 Turbo, but I imagine that it would be smaller and boost even quicker with the high compression, maybe too small? With an RB25DE with R33 turbo, I've read that they start boosting at around 1800RPM, then at 3500 - 4000 variable timing kicks in and it launches. 7PSI seems to be the safe boost level, though some have had good results even at 10PSI with a supposed safe tune.

I've got another question in regards to the GReddy eManage harnesses. I have the unit with the universal harness that it comes with, and also an optional ignition harness, but will I also need the injector harness? Or will it be sufficient without the injector harness?

No worries mate, haha yeah they are a bit big aye lol

I think I made the rear wheels a tad bit big, but anyways, that should give you an idea:

Anyone? I'll drop to $350...I would really like to sell them.

Had a bit of a play around with the Z Tune. Nothing too different, just a little bit on the rear guards, bigger wheels, extended side skirts and rear pods, extended the exhaust tip a bit, a bit of window tint.

Neo vs Non-Neo http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t456618.html Neo's have a bit more power and are low emissions (LEV). I have no idea about the timing settings, but I "think" the cam gears need to be compatible with NVCTS to retain variable timing.

I thought red light cameras only operate if you enter the intersection "after" the light turns red? Or is that just in NSW? Good luck fighting it...chances are they've fought many of these cases before and are used to it by now. I was coming up to the Klump Rd / Logan Rd intersection one arvo and someone accelarated through an amber light, turns out the car next to me was an undercover and he chased him through the lights to book him. What's worse, the person who decided to make it through an amber light, or the undercover cop who decided to chase after him, probably after it had already turned red?

damn..how do you keep finding these things!! first the BOV, now the oil cooler kit! I would take the cluster, but I'm also a bit turned of by the holes in the dash for them.. I'll probably go with the din panel ones if / when i put gauges in

Which part of Mt Ousley are they planning on putting them?

Oh I forgot Exhaust Manifold Gasket, around $110 for a genuine Nissan one. I'm not sure what other cheaper but good options are out there for a Manifold gasket, if someone can suggest I'd like to know. $130 for a permacool oil cooler kit? Is that including everything to be able to fit it etc..?

Some of my parts may not be the lowest price, but some I took as they weren't as common to come buy: - R33 Series 2 Turbo w/ Actuator removed at 97,000kms with barely to no shaft play $230 Posted from Albury - RB25DET Factory Manifold and R34 GTT NEO Injectors $250 Posted for both (you can probably pick up cheaper but I took the offer for both to save hassle - Walbro GSS 342 or Bosch 040? The Walbro is a cheaper option and still very good from what I've read. It will flow up to 500HP. Walbro is $145 posted from ebay Performance World Store. They import direct from US and thus have cheaper prices. - Second Hand Turbosmart Single Stage Boost Controller $100 from Quigga on Nissan Silvia - Brand New sealed packaging Braided Line Kit $100 from Quigga on Nissan Silvia - Second Hand Oil Catch Can $10 posted from Dori32, what a champ he is! - Monsta Front Mount Intercooler Kit $306 Posted. You can probably just go with a SMIC but for the extra couple of hundred, the peace of mind having cooler air, and the power gain, just go a FMIC. Tuning costs enough to rule out upgrading later. - JJR Front / Dump Pipe $225? Posted from Just Jap - eManage Unused $320 Posted from Perth - eMangae Ignition Harness $60 odd dollars from N*Power on eBay, though if you search for their website you can save around $10 not going via ebay - Turbo Inlet with Plumback Piping I've been given offer of $55 posted, you might be able to find cheaper though. Yo-Yo is selling a silicon one for around $100, I'm thinking of just getting the factory one and be done with it - Alloy cross pipe with BOV, see if you can find a factory one. I've been quoted by one of the workshops who want to do the work on my car $110 for a custom job with an R33 Factory BOV, that gives an idea. - Air filter. With an FMIC, unless the piping allows, you can pretty much rule out a factory induction box. However much you're willing to spend on a pod filter. I'm thinking of going for an Apexi Item, though I'm thinking of doing a bit of reading into the Saber ones. Just get something that flows well, but cleans well too! Plenty of high flowing ones, even from the big jap brands, but when tested don't filter too well! The cheap 3A Racing pod filter is said to both filter well and flow exceptionally, though I've heard that they don't use the best glues in their pods. - Exhaust, up to you which way you want to go with it. A jap brand catback is certainly going to cost a lot more. I believe 3" Mandrel is the way to go, though 666DAN used a 2.75" iirc? I'm not sure which is the better way to go between these two piping diameters when it comes to an N/A Turbo. How far you take the exhaust though, cat converters, resonators, what type of tip etc... will dictate the price. - Labour: Unless someone can help you out with that, to fit the above (not incl. exhaust) I've been quoted: Garage X: $880 Garage Y: $1100ish Garage Z: 1300ish not including FMIC and one place quoted me: Manifold, Turbo and dump install: $595 Injectors install: $340 Fuel pump install: $170 Boost controller install: $85 Coolant: $30 Basic service with Mobil S2000 10W40: $120 Intercooler kit install: $340 Add $500 for Miscellaneous other bits and pieces needed to support the turbo conversion. And that was just to give an "idea". - ECU and Tuning: Allow $350-380 it seems to get a piggy back fitted (more work splicing wires is what I've been told), and for tuning around $400 though one garage said they'd send it to that same place and tuning would be $600, so I'm not sure what's going on there. Either way allow $400-600 for a good reputable tuner, which is what you want when it comes to tuning an N/A Turbo. You can add up that list, I really don't want to see the figure lol I've been collecting the parts for a couple of months though which is probably the way to go. Work out a plan, then parts that are hard to come by that you see at a good price, grab them! Other things like air filters and FMICs can be bought last. - Other optional items: - Oil Cooler Kit, if you plan on taking it on the track an oil cooler kit probably isn't a bad idea as with high compression and an engine and turbo working hard, you'd want to keep those temps within range. - Bigger brakes - I'll certainly be upgrading my brakes later on. If you plan on taking it on the track, then it's probably a must! - Gauges - If you want to keep an eye on boost, and temperatures. I haven't bothered too much with gauges at the moment, I will probably later on look at getting din mounted gauges just to keep an eye on boost levels and temps. I'm not interested in having gauges for the looks and for the sake of it, otherwise I'd plaster them all over the dash and A Pillar. I prefer to keep my skyline looking as much N/A as possible, besides the FMIC which makes it a bit obvious lol Hope that helps!

True true... Well my eManage was second hand, but unused so it will have nothing on it at all, and hey i got the eManage for $300 + $50 odd dollars for the ignition harness and $20 freight, so I'm still ahead there. Your certainly right, it's still worth it. When I look at spending the same dollars on keeping it N/A at least half my budget is eaten up in a complete exhaust with extractors. Add cams + labour + inevitable engine management, and it's still not going to touch a DE+t. Ah well I made the decision to modify, I live with the consequences of the costs lol After a few months I won't be missing the money..hell as soon as I drive it out the drive way and feel the difference it will be a long gone thought hehe. Given the cost of tuning though, I think I may just fork out the exta to at least do a catback. I'd find a second hand one, but good luck finding a high flowing 3" catback for a 4 door R34 So when are you looking at completing yoru conversion dori?

That looks shocking!

Unfortunately I don't know too many people up in Brissy / Qld :S It is a lot of $$$ it's actually getting above the budget I expected. I could have a go at fitting the emanage myself, but I would rather leave engine computer wiring to a professional just to keep peace of mind I guess. With an emanage, how do you go about setting defaults so that I can still drive around in it with it hooked up? It would save a few hundred easily if I did havea crack at it. I'm actually thinking whether to go ahead with using the emanage after being recommended using an Adaptronic entry level unit, but I don't know too much about these, and then I'd have to try and sell my emanage blue and ignition harness that I've already bought. That sounds pretty impressive with the 12psi set up on a DE! I still don't know that I'd be wanting to push that much with mine, given that it's recommended to stay at around 7PSI..

Turbo inlet pipe is sorted now, all that remains is the pod filter and cross pipe with BOV. I've been getting a few more quotes on labour and tuning, and it's suprising to see labour ranging between $880 and anywhere up to close to two grand! I also didn't realise how much it would cost to have an emanage fitted! Should I expect to pay between $350 and $380 for install of an emanage blue? Tuning I've been told around $400 from Hi-Power Racing in slacks creek. Has anyone had work done before at Option Garage? or is this the type of question not to ask on the forum... I ask as they've given me the best price so far for the labour side of things, it just means towing the car back down to slacks creek for the tuning, and having to deal with public transport to work at coopers plains...so I'm weighing up whether it's worth the saving, or get it all done at the same place. Any suggestions guys?