DoughBoy

I think an R32 is 16bit vs the R33's 32bit CPU.

Hire Car - normally those that are chauffered.

Due to a major change in plan with the car I'm selling my gearbox setup. 1st gearbox - Completely rebuilt + blueprinted by Craft Differentials in Sydney. All gears have been crack tested, cryo'd and shotpeened for ultimate durability. Gearbox has zero use on it (still have to pick it up from Craft). All parts in it now are brand new or near new, if it wasn't up to scratch I replaced it. Has the billet center plate for increased strength. R32 bellhousing for use with push clutches. Also has a set of brand new, custom billet steel selector forks. The forks are the weakest part in the box, since the standard ones are made from brass. 2nd gearbox - In pieces, can be built into a gearbox but was going to use as spares if their were any drama's with the first box. Has damage on 1st and 2nd gear, would suggest replacing + the same treatments given to the 1st box. Will even throw in a brand new reverse gear. Was surplus to rebuilding the 1st box. Both boxes are straight cut gearsets, ratios are - 1st - 2.782 2nd -1.938 3rd - 1.506 4th - 1.178 5th - 0.92 6th - 0.752 Selling as 1 lot, $10,000 firm. Email addy is cbaloglow (@) netspace.net.au

Those prices are disgustingly cheap. There's really financial reason to run the stock manifolds at those prices.

Damn is this the new price is right? Where's Turps?

I've got a used one out of my old ECR33 S2, $200 C.O.D.

I need the accelerator cable... still got it?

Narva sell a relay with an inbuilt fuse

Don't be thinking this car is some backyard throw together (like my cars), it's been racing for a few years. The US has a larger and more advanced drag racing market, Titan proved how much quicker you can go with an auto on their car (dropped .3 seconds(?) from mid 8's to low 8's). The turbo is going to be the dictator with regards to horsepower, I think this car is meant to have one of the Turbonetics Thumper's on it (up to 2,000hp). Check out the engine bay of the Titan car, notice the Wiggins clamps on the water + turbo lines ($US200+ each). That's a fair bit more "advanced" than Mario's car....

Indicators bought, only need the accelerator cable now.

Hi guys, needing some parts to complete a project.. ECR33 series 1 front indicators - I've got a set with the foglights, the foglight part interferes with the intercooler so I need to either cut out the foglight part or get a new set without them. Would rather swap for a set without the foglights RB26 accelerator cable - doesn't matter which car it's off, they are the same length. Please PM me regarding these. Thanks!

If you look at the rules on the class I think it's a 3,000lbs race minimum. Same rules that ANDRA cut n' pasted initially for the Sport Compact class here...

Hi guys, Do to numerous reasons I need to replace the standard foglight/indicator assembly off my front bar. I'd prefer to swap for a set of non-foglight ones, as they would be suited to my requirements. Asking $300 outright, or straight swap for the front indicators.

280rwkw. Compressor limited.

Uhm... that's not chocolate.... and it's really not shaped like a frog...

Considering your MPH is nearly identical with some suspension/tyre tuning you should be able to go just as good Disclaimer: provided your 'box hangs together!

Technically Keir Wilson + John Munro have got sleeved blocks, Keir's reported over 600kw at the wheels. Althought that's a bit off 1300ps.. Wonder how John's doing with his new methanol guzzling dry sumped motor?

Yeah I like them, if I didn't I wouldn't have bought them Kinda funny that with aero mirrors you pay more to see less...

Hey why not screw the wastegate in a bit and try it without the EBC connected, just running one line from the plenum to the bottom fitting on the gate. That way you can eliminated the wastegate from creeping open due to the EBC.. or see if it's the wastegate at fault. Those Trust R gates are rebuildable, can always open it up to see if the diagphram is torn or catching on the side. It's a fallacy that HKS turbos only start to make power at 18psi. If that were the case all their compressor lineup would have massive exducer diameters, and would be pretty laggy due to the increased inertia. Having that massive spike on your "ideal" graph would just smoke the tyres. I bet it would be faster + more driveable without the EBC spiking the boost at lower RPMS, although at higher road speeds you might want that mid range spike. If you really are after a combination that gives boost early, yet delivers more power up top your best bet is a set of small twins, like GT-SS or 2530. Merli's ~320awkw on GT-SS's would fit your criterea perfectly.

Got Ganowhores on the white '33, and a set to go on the black '33

Oh and idea #3, if you want a turbo combination that doesn't drop off boost, how about getting something ginormous that you'll never max out, or lowering your boost level/expectations?

Ok I am tired, checked the comp map + it's only ~41lbs/min peak flow. The shaft speed at that level for 1.4 bar is 135,510rpm. Might want to be a bit careful with overspeeding that turbo. Since teh calcs are only rough approximations (some places rate the lbs *11 for engine hp) it still seems feasable. Or is that feeble?

Ok, 300rwkw @ 28psi vs 287rwkw @ 16psi. Don't you think the compressor is maxed out? The 56T 2835R flows ~44lbs/min, hack that into 440 engine hp, take out ~70hp drivetrain loss, so 370rwhp... or 275rwkw. Sound about right? The compressor is over is far right side edge of the map, so it's blowing more hot air than a cheap hooker. Funny point that I was under the assumption that the efficiency curves on a comp map was relative efficiency of the compressor, giving some sort of heat based map. Garrett states the percentiles is actually how much turbine flow is driving the compressor at that flow/boost, hence the efficiency rating in %. In my often wrong opinion 280rwkw is maxing out a 44lbs/min compressor, just as 330rwkw is maxing out a low/mid 50's lb/min compressor on ze humble RB25.

Get the OS Gherkin conversion kit, Otomoto sell them locally - www.otomoto.com.au or order it in through Greenline/Nengun/your friendly local Japanese parts pimp.

It's easy to learn what you need, it just costs you money. It's no different from any other type of car or motor.