bubbabooga

Make/Model: hr31 gtsx Year:1989 Kilometers:200,xxx on dash, 88,xxx on motor Modifications: alright do I got this car a few years back and was restoring it to its former glory. I had to replace the engine and took me ages to source the original red top20 which had 88,xxx written on the covers. before installing the motor I replaced all 12 exhaust manifold studs and gasket with new genuine Nissan parts. Also fitted a s2 bb rb25 turbo and appropriate oil feed line along with a am performance sleeve style screamer dump and front pipe. Also has a31 side mount cooler. Engine runs mint and sounds nuts! Complete standard cat back exhaust fitted which needs to be extended about an inch to meet the dump pipe. $20 exhaust shop fix. Will include I jun bl rear polished muffler and 3 meter length of 3 inch stainless tube to get a nice exhaust fabricated. Fitted exedy hd clutch also when installing engine. Currently has all standard suspension and brakes but with sale I'll include s13 sr20 front brakes and a full set of s13 coilovers, rears mint front needs rebuild. Interior is all standard and all working electrics, weird jap features like air purifier on the back window and elec air cushion seats. Lol Also has old school jap turbo timer installed which works perfecto. Now I had every intention of finishing and enjoying this car but Iv started a new job working away and home only 1 week out of 2 months so have no time to finish it let alone enjoy it. So the body work is 90% finished which has been done by 2 panel beater mates of mine. It's had the boot lid spoiler removed (included in sale) and holes welded up, all badges removed and filled, all wheel arches lipped and slightly pumped. It's at the stage it needs a skim coat over the guard lips then a wet rub and into a spray booth. It was goona cost me 1k to have it sprayed, maybe cheaper if you know a painter. I also have a complete set of the original rear hot plate taillights included. Currently rolling on silver 16x8 weld draglights, super light rims with brand new yokohama tread all round. Probably best to text any questions or pic requests on 0423420713 as I work a lot. Cheers much Tom Roadworthy Certificate:not required in sa Registered:currently not but can be Accident History:nill Asking Price:eoi?? $$5000ono Location:Murray bridge area Contact Details:0423420713

Sweet so mine being +29 would have the whole rim moved in 18mm? Providing they don't touch the coilovers ofcourse. Got a big collection of 5mm slip ons which can hopefully get me outa trouble their.

Alright awesome. Cheers mate All guards are currentlly lipped but I'm prepared to have them flared slightly to run these mad wheels if need be. Anyone else?

Hey guys Looking into a set of meisters for my ceffy and wondering if anyone can give me some insight into the amount of guard work might be required to run them. Or if anyone is running same specs Car has standard guards. Wheel specs are Fronts 18x9 +29 225 tyre Rears are 18x10 +33 245 tyre Any help greatly appreciated Cheers Tom

Text the number shown and I'll text back pics. Sorry cant figure out how to upload pics from iPhone?

Buy buy buy

Forgot to mention Has brand new 40mm alloy radiator painted black too. Never even gets warm! South aus rego too

Forgot to mention Has brand new 40mm alloy radiator painted black too. Never even gets warm! South aus rego too

Sa rego bud!

Bump Price drop $4800Ono Making way for first home. You buy now!!

Their pretty basic once you have them apart and understand how they work etc I've rebuilt 2 vl t3 turbo's one a high flow, both bush bearing. I sourced the kit off eBay Perhaps pull it down and take the Bearings and seals to a turbo shop and order the parts to suit. Make sure you clean the grove the seals run in really well too.

Awsome Thanx muchlly!! Will give it a go

Alright awesome. How do I go about removing the hub end of the axle? I cant get to The four bolts holding it to the hub with a socket or ring spanner?!? Cheeeers

I've got the diff centre pretty well sorted, I have the bolts with the bushes for the forward mount and will swap the diff cover with my r180 when I pull it out. Tail shaft flange fit's perfectly too. It's a non abs rear end I have sitting here too btw I'm just in a pickle with the axles and hubs. Basically can I use r33 rear hubs/knuckles for 5 stud conversion? Will my adjustable s13 arms bolt up to the knuckle's all the same?

Sorry to bring back the old thread but is it possible to use the r33 rear hubs/knuckle along with the axles and diff? While still being able to use all my adjustable s13 spec arms? I was going to stay 4 stud but wanting to go 5 stud now. Cheers Tom

Hey all Hope this ain't the wrong section to be asking. I'm after a Ross race series rb25 balancer, reason I ask here is Ross won't have one ready till aprill So im hoping Somone one here might be able to recommended somewhere that might stock one?? It's for my twin cam 30 running rb25 ancillaries that is near completion, only waiting on a balancer. My engine builder and myself have looked into using an Ati balancer but they only make rb26 balancers and I'd prefer not to stuff around changing ps pumps and what not.. Cheers Tom

Too many project cars need to clear some out. Reconditioned head and genuine Nissan water pump, head gasket and timing belt fitted 1000k's ago along with Rebuilt high flow vl t3 turbo Larger throttle body and ported inlet manifold. Custom inter cooler with mega short piping running behind headlights so no holes cut, piping powder coated black. Custom 3inch stainless separated dump pipe into straight threw 2.5inch exhaust, not to loud. Kn pod filter. Standard vl turbo injectors and ecu with a remap from a stock vlt setup, made 165rwkw with complete stock setup, with a nistune in its current form it should pull close to 200rwkw. Walbro intake fuel pump with direct battery feed. Rb30 gearbox shifts fine. Brand new Rb25 extreme drift clutch rated to 280kw. Open wheel diff but have locked centre to come with car. S14 tein superstreet front coilovers koni rears with pedders springs, s13 hubs and nuckles with sr20 front brakes and brand new rear rotors with vx commodore calipers. Rear bushes all nolathane. Kenwood head unit with custom door pods holding 6 inch fusion speaker and theater either side and 2 more fusion 6inch speakers on parcel shelf. Immobiliser and alarm Aircon just regassed and tinted windows. Car goes hard and is pretty good on fuel considering, doesn't attract any police attention, great sleeper! Only downside is no handbrake connected because the bigger rear brakes, was going to install hydraulic handbrake but ran out of time. 5800ono open to offers for swaps. Can't answer phone at work so text Tom on 0423420713

Hey all Just a quick one Wondering if any one has any actuall experience running one of these ebay rebuild kits? http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewitem?itemId=120807133928&cmd=VIDESC&index=9&nav=SEARCH&nid=01058740873 Also wondering if it does actually make them n1 spec? I thought n1's had different housings also? Cheers muchlly Tom

whoops double post

yeah when i went to see darren it was to have a look at the sump design that he offers with the external oil pump setup which i was going to have put on also, but yeah then he tells me it wont fix the rb30's problems.. lol think ill have a speak with rhemac's and see what they can offer in the wet sump external oil pump department. cheeers

alright sweet when i went to see darren it was to have a bit of a look at the sump design he offers in the external oil pump kit's he sells. he said even using that belt driven pump setup i would still have dramas. lol might have a chat with rhemac's then. cheeers

ah good good just what i wanted to read.. at the time being the car is still road registerable so my plans where to fix the motor and drive it sensiblly on the road for a couple months or untill its defected then will be track only, for drift that is. maybe a dash of grip. and just to note, i havent spun a balancer, thats just what darren was saying will inevidably happen if i stick with the 30. alright sweet, i currently have a nitto pump to go on and ill get darren to organise and fit a ross drift balancer and a good sump. im gooona cap power at 300kw till i learn to drive it at that level and the limiter will be set at 7500. cheers guys

Hmm what do ya mean? Like something he's not telling me? I thought maybe he might have been trying to get him self more work by having me start from scratch with a used 26 block off him? He was positive I would keep having dramas staying with the 30 bottom end...

I wasnt to keen on naming names but darren at lewis is who i have spoken with as his shop is 10 minutes down the road from my place. he assured me theirs nothing we could do to fix the rb30 problem, as when their coupled with a big turbo they rise threw the rev range to quicklly and have problems spinning balancers and oil pumps all the time. my motor is currentlly running a twin scroll t04z but i had plans that once my motor was back on track to downsize to a smaller gtx turbo.

giday all well iv currentlly got a shagged 25/30 in my cefiro which had been running for no more than 1000k's. After destroying a gearbox, tailshaft and trans tunnel i had the car sit in a mates shed slowlly getting repaired for around 9 months. Now the day i got the driveline drama's sorted and the car back on the road i stupidlly got a bit too keen driving it and managed to toast all 6 cp piston's. my guess is the fuel in the tank loosing some octane over the 9month or so period it was sitting their. every piston has major detonation on the intake side only. Now iv gone to speak with a well known builder about replacing the pistons and told him its going to be for a track only car. He seemed certain id be much better off building a 26 or 25 for a track car cause no matter what i done i would just keep f**king balancer's and oil pumps due to the rb30's stroke and crank harmonic's and their was no cure for it, Im curious to know how many people on here are running 300kw+ rb30 hybrids in track only car's, wether it be circuit or drift and doing so reliablly? im hoping i can keep the 30 bottom end as the cars already set up for it, but moreso i want reliabillity in the thing.. cheeers a heap tom