Super_Dude

Arp and tomei sell stronger l19 headstuds. Defiantly worth looking into.

Im trying to install my 3843S-R521 kit and I dont have instructions. I pulled a pdf from nismo but it doesn't work with the kit I have. Any help would be awesome

Hey, We are in the process of putting together a r32 gtr race car and a had few questions. 1-can we just remove the stock dash and replace with an aftermarket one. Is there anything that is important to things running correctly? Everything seems to be tied toghter with these cars so I figured I would ask 2-I dropped the rear subframe and was wondering about subframe bushes. Is there an off the shelf replacement to move the subframe closer to the body? 3-I'm considering running ikeya formula arms but want to run a s14 subframe down the road. Can you use r32 gtr arms with an s14 subframe? Unless I can just modify my bnr32 subframe

Right now im running an hfs-6 and 800cc sards. They wont be large enough for e85 or pump/meth mix. Im looking at going with some 1600cc id's and starting my mix at 25 and working up to 50/50 meth/pump. Im going to retain my hfs-6 and run straight water

Still waiting on mine. E85 isn't nearly as easy to find In canada as I hoped either. Might just have to shell out for race gas. For now its going to be pump +meth

I'm running a vipec up here and I have no problems. The vipec does everything we tell it too and AFR's are right where we want them. Something else is wrong with your setup beyond the Vipec tuning. I would double check your injector latency. If it is indeed in the 2.2 range and you have it set at .65 that would seriously mess things up. Also, Are you running closed loop on idle?

Mine wasn't a genuine brembo kit. It was made in china using ap rotors and brembo calipers. Absolute garbage. I wasn't told the nature of the kit when I bought it. I was just saying the cayenne brembo wasn't great and I wouldn't use it.

Porsche cayenne brakes have no place on a performance car. Having ordered a "kit" from someone that used cayenne calipers. When it arrived, I realized I had screwed up. Not even getting into the adapter, rotor, or brake line issues just the caliper alone was enough to scare me off. The thing probably weighed 15-20lbs each with pads installed and when I checked the part numbers you could buy them from porsche for 500$. No was this has the quiality of material or consruction for a high performance car. Back on topic. How much would a manifold like this cost?

How much higher is the engine than the rad? You could be trapping air if the motor is sitting to high relative the rad. If thats the case an air seperation tank will solve your problem.

Thanks a lot for the input. Do you have any tips for sealing up the motor better?

No catch can with a dry sump. My setup is scavanging 3x from the pan. I might just try running without a regulator and keep an eye on crankcase vacuum.

Hey, I've picked up a second hand dry sump kit for a Gtr but wanted the opinion of some guys who already have dry sumps installed. The seller told me ue was running a vacuum regulator off one of the valve cover breathers. It is a 4 stage peterson pump running all three pick ups to the sump and a head drain to the pan. He said if you dont have a regualtor it will pull too much vacuum and the pistons wont get any oil (rb30, no squirters) This seems odd to me and you wouldnt think it would matter. So, is anyone running vacuum regulators? How much vacuum do you run? If you dont then what did you do with the valve cover breathers?

Im serious about the power. I've got everything in the drivetrain upgraded, built head, single turbo, big fuel system, dry sump, huge brakes. I'm not going to be running that much power all the time and will probably be on low boost most of the time. Im up in Canada and there is nobody experienced with a gtr with this much power on the track. I've talked to lots of people in the know overseas but I dont like bugging them all the time so I thought I would ask here first.

Do you guys think a stock headgasket+steel oring would be a good setup for a track car? What is the thickness is a stock head gasket and how much stick up l do I want out of the oring? Do I need to worry about where the oring meets the factory headgasket? The steel o ring + stock headgasket is looking like the best option right now.

Why did you choose to Oring your engine? How often and long have you been driving it hard?

Thanks, pm being sent

I picked up a brand new forged rb30 recently for an amazing price and I'm pretty excited about it, except the fact they O-ringed the block. They included a custom copper headgasket but I'm afraid it's going to leak and give me trouble. I've been looking around I've found a few options Use the copper head gasket and steel wire O-ring Use MLS/stock paper gasket with copper wire O-ring Use no wire and a MLS gasket Use copper wire to fill the O-ring groove but not stick above the level of the block. If anyone has experience with O-ringed RB's please let me know The car is a r32 GTR that is mostly a track car and sees a bit of street driving, power is going to be in the 700-800whp range on E85.

Dont mess around with the valve, get a new EFR8374 1.05. I would atleast wait for some rb30 dynos with them before you spend the money

It's a good idea for a road car but I bet with tracking the car or even aggressive street use it would overheat parts, warp pieces, and cause problems. Some wrc cars didn't even use twin scroll turbos as the heat and pressure would cause one side to push over and block the other side.

Hey jet200, do you know if and where I can buy this in nsct format for us canadian gtr lovers?

I have an aquamist hfs-6 on the car right now. It works good but won't give the same performance as mixing meth. It's also something else to break at the track. The 15% gasoline is supposed to add color to the flame also. I might try a 50/50 mix and move up from there.

It's an rb30 with 8.7 compression, intercooled, factory location injectors, and as much boost as a EFR8374 can safely throw at it.

The big name shops usually build the small ones that bolt on. If you want 90mm downpipes you need to check out the smaller shops like midori, auto select, cockpit, mines, etc.

No liscence needed here and it's much cheaper than race gas. it's about 1$/l compared to 1.50$ for e85, 4$+ for race gas.

Nobody has any experience? I keep looking around and all I'm finding is a lot of bs about methanol being dangerous and toxic. It's actually less dangerous and toxic than gasoline. I think the only reason it isn't used is because Injectors large enough to use methanol and still idle and run normal only recently became available. (id2000) Unless someone has a good reason not to do it I'm gonna give it a shot.