colossus

bump

I agree with you mate - of course the organisers are to blame as well and should cop a punishment but the driver in the end is the one who made the decision to plant the foot in that uncontrolled environment knowing full well the power of the car. Not signed either. You cant blame the innocent spectators. Poor kids.

Get a brand new FMIC kit for under $400 from any of the forum sponsors and Turbotech bleed valve $30. $430 sure beats $1800...

Srry mate, this has been sold.

I have the same issue - I found a thread where someone mounted it in exactly the same spot just sideways. Havnt had time to do it yet but I dummy fitted it and I reckon this would work.

Any chance of seperating - I just need the timing light?

As above need a Canister Purge Control Valve for an R34 GTT

As above need a dash cluster for an R34 GTT auto.

Dont worry figured it out - To get first code: long flash is first digit, short flash is second digit - so two long flashes followed by one short is code 21 then I got three long flashes followed by three short - Code 33. So ignition fault (assuming speed sensor) then O2 sensor fault (interesting...as o2 mode showed no fault)....

just do a google....i found it for free in about 5 minutes.

What if you have more than one fault - how can you tell from the flashing lights code? For instance I know my speed sensor is stuffed in the dash but I am trying to chase a different error...

Thanks guys, Ill give it a go on the weekend.

$495 at Croydon Racing.

Why does everyone act so innocent on the internet? I mean I'm sure most of you (as in car enthusiasts) at some stage in your life have put the foot down on a long stretch of straight road just to see what she will do? Only difference is you didnt get caught. I own bikes and I dont know a single rider that hasnt hit some insane speed at least once just for the fun of it - higher than that speed mentioned too. I dont agree with what this guy did and I hardly want to encourage such behaviour as I can only imagine what would happen if something went wrong, but you know the saying - people who live in glass houses shouldnt throw stones...

If your getting engine warning light (any other lights?) my moneys on coils - i just went through the same thing had to buy a set of splitfires in the end.

Can someone tell me the easiest way to remove the old engine fan in order to install a new one? For instance is it necessary to remove the radiator? Car is an R34 GTT. Thanks.

So once you cut out the side of your stock snorkel how did you seal it back up?

I just put on a FMIC and the stock snorkel for the airbox does not fit back on as the FMIC piping is in the way. THis is something to keep in mind as my stock airbox now just sucks hot air just like a pod. Decision now is wether to a CAI to the stock airbox or to a boxed pod as the FMIC install leaves a hole in the guard which goes to the front bumper where the SMIC piping used to run.

got the handle?

By the way I got 7 flashes in 10 seconds so I guess its fine.

Awesome - thanks. Can anyone else confirm if this is true?

I've done a few advanced driving courses and they always stress that higher tyre pressures are safer (better braking and handling, less rolling resistence) than the manufacturers recommendation - not to mention more fuel efficient (which is what this threads about). Low pressures are good for comfort and drag racing thats about it. Only one real way to measure fuel economy - fill up till the nozzle clicks. Reset odo. Drive around as much as you want, dosnt matter if your tanks half empty or fuel light on. When you fill up next, fill up all the way till nozzle clicks. Then divide the number of litres you just put in (its on your docket ) by the kilometres showing on your odo. Crazy that people just go off the inaccuarte fuel light... My car would be Catagory 2 (full city driving) - R34 GTT auto - 12psi, cat-back zorst, hi flow cat, FMIC, normally get 14L/100kms before the mods. Though after fitting the high flow cat it dropped to 13.3L/100km then with the FMIC dropped to 12.4L/100kms on the last tank. These just may be co-incidences though havn't decided yet.

No black smoke... Tried just about everything on the weekend: - Did a boost leak test (the one with the baked bean can): small leak in one vaccum line to the power steering, fixed that but made no difference. My oil dipstick also kept popping out at about 15psi during the test - I thought this was very strange, but after googling apparently fairly common when the rubber seal wears on the dipstick (still wierd that the oil was getting air)... - So then did a compression test to make sure of above - 160psi exactly across all six cylinders. - Put on a new fuel filter. - Checked spark plug gaps and condition (still great). - Threw the SMIC back on and drove around with it most of Sunday (still ran crappy, missing and engine light and SLIP lights came on.) - Cleaned AFM with electrical contact cleaner. - So last night threw FMIC back on... Car is missing at idle consistently and on light throttle missing badly. If I give it some throttle/boost it seems to run OK. Everytime the engine light/SLIP lights (accompanied by a power loss and 5 cylinders)come on it is when cruising at a steady speed. My options now are: Splitfires $500, or O2 sensor $200 - Im considering O2 sensor as its only happening at idle and cruise however I'm getting about 12.4L/100km (which is great, I usually get about 14) so O2 sensor should be fine. Think I'll go splitfires? PS - should also add on the weekend I bought some extra silicone joiners and tidied up the intercooler piping. Now sits much higher and straighter over the top of the radiator. I dont think the stock fan should hit it so going to buy a replacement fan now (I thought $20 from a wrecker....try $150 lol).

Does that include the front pipe too or would you have to get a custom one made up?

Just need a single known working coilpack for troubleshooting purposes. Am located in Sydney or postage to postcode (2153). Thanks.