colossus

Also Lotus Esprit TT V8 - i think thats an 80's one?

Lambo Countach

The Nissan Tiida ad with Kim katrell. The latest Holden ad where they go on and on about their cars being "Aussie" and "just working" - funny most of their 99% stuff is Korean and American and they would have to be the most unreliable poorly built, hunks of junk ever (and I've owned new Commodores Falcons before so can tell it like it is).

Pm me your concerns about Hitman - I recently used him and all was sweet. I would have gone CRD (used them before) and they are top notch but for this particular tune (SAFC NEO) they were more than double the price of hitman (try over $500) which I found wierd as they are normally quite good on price...

No idea on the tyre pressure, Hitman did the tune - I went with him after recommendations from others on this forum. Dyno figures can say whatever, but the RSM dosnt lie (relativley speaking in terms of improvements in times) so I'd rate him very highly.

No catch can, cars done right on 100,000kms. Engine temps normal just under halfway, cooling system working fine. Oil temp guage sits on 90 after warming up from 70. What I dont get is what Granthem said above about how can pressure magically return next time you start the car. You see it sits at 2kg/m2 (at idle/light cruise) for the first 25minutes of a drive then without fail it now falls to 1kg/m2 on idle/light cruise and moves slightly up with revs. So it seems 25minutes is some sort of barrier - all I can think of is heat generation but as I said oil temp gauge dosnt move off 90 degrees.

Yeah NEO (piggyback air/fuel controller) was tuned only. PM sent on price i paid. Have noticed quite low oil pressure the last week at idle - I started a different thread on it, really hoping its not something serious...

I don't think you can win either way in an import - people will automatically label you a hoon regardless. Funny though that the majority of R34's, R33's, R32's ect i see on my daily drive to work sit in the same lane doing under the speed limit generally taking it fairly easy - in other words they seem to have little to prove. Personally having owned over 10 performance cars I have never been pulled over, hassled, threatened ect. I reckon it comes down to how you drive or more precisely when you choose your moments.

Hmm i rung Nissan yesterday and they said $30 and 3-6 week wait (due to none in the country). Wonder if a new R33 one fits.

Its hard to remember but if I had to bet on it I would say the compression test was before the overfill debarcle. Reading this site though and googling I've found heaps of threads were oil dipstick pops out when doing boost leak tests and the answers to those threads was a warn dipstick o-ring, so thought it was fairly normal...I've only become concerned since the pressure has been dropping at idle.

which is? don't hold me in suspense...

As per title when I did a boost leak test about a month back the engine oil dipstick kept popping out (and when I undid the engine oil cap air would hiss out. From some research it appears the oil dipstick issue is not uncommon and is due to a worn seal (I couldnt find much info about the crankcase pressurising though except for the fact others have reported this too). I can order a new disptick off Nissan. However Nissan say no R34 dipsticks in the country and I'm up for a 6 week wait...so firstly anyone know if an R33 dipstick is the same as these are in stock? Secondly when I did my first oil change on the car about 4 months back I overfilled it due to conflicting info in the glovebox manual vs the owners manual on the net vs advice from SAU - so I drove it like that for a week or two without realising then had to drain a fair amount out (just under a litre). The level is currently sitting right on the H mark now. It has been fine up to this point but in the last week I have noticed my oil pressure is sitting on about 6kg/m2 until its warmed up (say 5 minutes). It then drops to 2kg/m2 at idle after about 10 minutes of driving (this is good I'm told) and rises to around 4kg/m2 or more when accelerating (once again normal). However after about 30 minutes of driving it now drops to about 0.9kg/m2 at idle - I believe this is too low - could the lack of a good seal on the dipstick be the cause of this?? or you think it could be much more serious?? FYI - I tested compression not long ago and it was perfect across all cylinders. I'm using Castrol full synthetic oil 5w-30, its about 4 months old.

As per title. The seal on mine is gone and it leaks/pops out.

anyone? should the trans and diff be OK?

1998 R34 Skyline GTT tiptronic auto Mods: 3" TBE exhaust FMIC Splitfire coils generic pod turbotech boost controller set at 11psi Walbro 255L fuel pump Apexi SAFC NEO Fuel - Vortex 98 Made 199.3rwkw

So I reckon I have just about finished modding this car now. Bought it about 3 months ago changed all the fluids, did timing belt, serviced auto trans ect. Replaced sparks and then coils with splitfires as stock ones were mis-firing. That got it running normal. Then did a full 3" exhaust, FMIC, bumped the boost up to 11psi. Bought a SAFC NEO and had it tuned the other day. First few runs it wouldn't do over 148rwkw, then tuner realised fuel pump was stuffed. Put in a high flow pump and tuned the NEO and it pulled 199.3rwkw. Car is much nicer to drive now, pulls very hard throughout the rev range - my Apexi RSM is showing a 1 second improvement in 80-120km/h roll on after tune and it is now 0.8secs faster to 100 than before tune. Hoping to get down to WSID on Wednesday night next week to see what it does down the strip. When I first bought this car I didnt want any mods, but then one thing leads to another.....ect Anyway car is a daily so dont want to do any other power mods - as far as reliabilty goes is there any other supporting mods I'm missing? - I want this to last me a while.

I saw it and lol'd. what a classic

In regards to the bike argument - Bumblebee you are correct to some extent but I disagree that a bike is more expensive to run than a small car. I would say roughly the same. It all greatly depends to the size of the bike - of course a 750 or 1000 is going to be more expensive to run than a smaller bike. It also depends on the brand of tyres you buy and wether or not you do your own maintenance. Also your riding style i.e. maniac or just commuting. My mate has a GSXR750 that he rides daily (owns no car) - he gets around 5L/100kms, does all his own servicing (very easy on a bike)and what buys a new tyre about once every 12 months. Personally I had a CBR600F4i for 3 years as a daily - Get about 5l/100kms a tank too - engine oil is not expensive and it only takes a few litres, tyres are pricey but only cause I buy decent ones and for me they last about 10,000kms so about a year then. Rego and insurance is cheaper than a car. Brake pads last ages (as the bikes are so light). I agree that having a bike AND a car is a false economy. Choose one or other - by the time you add 2 * rego, 2*insurance, 2*servicing ect ect any fuel saving is negated. I have both as I cant choose between them lol. That being said any 250cc will absolutly smash a small car for runniing costs - they run on the smell of an oily rag, rego is dirt cheap as are tyres (and so light the tyres last forever). Park anywhere for free, get through traffic easy, use bus lanes, transit lanes bike lanes, the footpath lol. Then again who wants to ride a 250 ha? For me its not a competition between whats better, i love both for different reasons.

I'll let most people drive my car - dosn't really bother me and you never really get the chance to hear and see what your car goes like from the outside if you don't... I'll particularly let any good looking female drive it (inluding my partner of course) - the site of a hot girl in a modified car is something to behold.

I've installed a cooling pro on a mates R34 and have a similar type kit on my car (though its not cooling pro). I hope you've got a lot of time on your hands as the install was a pain in the a$$. If we had to do it all over again I would pay a little more and get a brand name kit. Fit is pretty poor - the pipework is hard to line up. After many many hours we got it right but from my experience just not worth it. You will need to extensivley trim the back of your bumper (buy a dremel kit from supercheap $20- will make it much much easier). The cooler it self fits fine behind the reo bar (this is actually the easiest bit and we didn't have to cut anything at all - though you do have to re-located or bin one of your horns). You will need to then holesaw/jigsaw under your battery to run the pipework and you will need to either bin your windscreen washer bottle or re-intall it 90 degrees turned with a custom bracket. We had great difficulty with the radiator fan blades hitting the pipework (due to some blind one-armed asian guy who measures the pipework in the cooling pro factory) so had to hack up the fan blades. I have since bought a new radiator fan and had an extender piece of pipe made up to fix this issue (the money I spent on this alone would have had me at equal in price at Greddy cooler by now at this point - factor in extra pipe, extra silicone joiners ect ect it adds up). The factory airbox can remain, but the cold air snorkel will not fit back on. I drove like this for a while then had to make up a custom airbox with pod and cold air feed (you will have to do this with any FMIC kit that goes over the radiator though). You will also need to buy a nipple from Pirtek to put on your pipe work (to take a rubber hose from the power steering) as the cooling pro ones dont have one. This means you need to drill a hole in the pipework, screw in the nipple and metal putty it up (read more money). In the end the final install looks good but its the hidden stress and problems described above that others cant see from the outside. Thats about all I can think of for now, take it from me and many many others on this forum, who have learnt from experience - better to spend more on quality parts as its less hassle and cost in the long run...if you do go ahead just factor in a lot of time so you dont rush it as it needs a lot of customising.

Going off your first post where it was only happening at 4000rpm on boost I was going to suggest it is either spark plugs gapped too big, faulty coilpacks, rich and retard, a boost leak ect. ect. ect... But if you reckon its happening everywhere in the range I would say get new spark plugs first gapped down a little ($30 better than wasting $500 on coills if you dont need em) then if that dosnt solve it change the coilpacks to splitfires. No point piss farting around with tape and glue ect. trying to fix the old ones IMO...I havn't seen anyone cheaper than Croydon Racing either for the splitfires... In the end though my money is on coils - seems to inflict just about every 34. The splitfires fixed all my issues (though you should be getting a check engine light once they break down real bad - then you can check the fault codes and you should get "ignition"). I had no problem driving around for a few weeks with dodgy coils, car just runs like crap on 5 cylinders (saved a bit of fuel even!)...

Damn its worth more than that mate! I just bought a NEO for much more than that - wish I'd bought yours. Good luck the sale.

willing to separate R34 center caps for $50? PM me if so...

I'd be doing another boost leak test - if you ran up a gutter and cracked your front bar youve proabbly done somthing to your FMIC or piping. Stick a can of baked beans in the intake and pump it up with an air compressor. make sure you go under the car to listen for leaks too.

The thing is with the water restrictions just gone - why did the government force people to use buckets or go to a car wash? 1) The bucket argument does not hold true. Sydney uni did an experiment and a trigger hose used less water overall. 2) The carwash argument is utter crap. My brother-in-law owns a chain of carwashes in Sydney's west and he laughed all the way to the bank when these restrictions came in place. You see car washes DO NOT USE recycled water (well at least his don't). He said maybe 10% of them use recycled water as it costs more to setup and there is no legal requirement to do so, so it makes poor business sense. So how can anyone believe a carwash which uses hundreds of litres of water is better than washing your car on the front lawn? State government stupidity makes me angry...