colossus

In terms of clearing land (deforestation), the following erosion, intensive water use ect. ethanol is not the environmetal solution to burning petroleum...so dont think its helping the environment at all... Also no-one has mentioned the calorfic value of E85 vs petrol.

Hmm in that thread the older SAFC2 only has one power wire. NEO manual is not very clear on the issue of the two power wires...I definatley concur with you guys about the ground wires though - much appreciated.

Thanks mate - I understand now that is not an intercept/rechannel - but when you say "tap from" can you just put the red and red/white wire together and tap into a single point or you still have to tap the two power wires into two seperate points on the ECU wire?

Guys installing an Apexi SAFC NEO into an R34. I have the installation and wiring manuals but just have a quick question. The wiring diagram is as follows: Now you will notice that there is two seperate power wires (red and red/white) and two seperate ground wires (brown and black). Now if I was connecting up the two power wires for instance do these connect up like the airflow wires - as in you cut the ECU wire in half then one end of ECU wire goes to the red wire and the other end of the ECU wire goes into the red/white power wire? OR do the two power wires just crimp together and both go onto the same point on the ECU wire? Any help appreciated.

thanks mate, i will take a look for a loose 12V wire. Otherwise looks like a booster..

Have an R34 GTT - it has a factory double DIN Pioneer carizonne (spelling?) system with factory pioneer splits, factory 6 disk stacker ect., added a Sony amp and sub - goes pretty good actually for minimum outlay - however it did not get aussie FM frequencies. So I put up with no radio for months then finally bought an FM converter. That installed fine but FM reception is pretty poor, sometimes OK, most of the time rubbish. There is antenna cabling going freaking everywhere behind the dash - I *think* it comes out of the HU then into another adaptor as i plugged the FM convertor into an aussie single antenna plug not the jap version. Still there seems to be another spare antenna plug surplus. Have tried hooking this up makes no difference. So what I am thinking is I may need a booster or is there another trick first (i hate just throwing money at things).

You should go have a look on the LS1 forum before doing this - they have a liquid injection system up and running now using multiple injectors, increase in power over a petrol car and 20% less gas use than regular LPG system. Price is supoosed to be only slightly more than the sequential systems.

There is still room for a car...

V35's start at $20K on carsales.com. The cheapest NSX is $60K and they range up to $110K. How can you compare two cars with this big a price difference?

Keep the line and buy a bike - best of both worlds... Its crap that petrol prices keep rising but its not a HUGE expense when you put it in perspective of ALL your daily life needs. How guys on here can complain about fuel then go spend $2000 on a power FC at the drop of a hat is beyond me...(thats about 5 months worth of fuel at $2 a litre). Or put another way - most R32's, R33's and R34's cost under $20K to purchase initially and hold their value well. This gives you a good, fun, quick car on which to build. Your fuel expense at 65L a tank is $97 a tank at $1.50/L or $130 a tank at $2/L or $162.50 at $2.50/L. Looking at these figures over a year (52 weeks) and assuming you use one tank a week (which is probably more than most guys here would) then you get: $5,044 a year at $1.50; $6,760 per year at $2/L and $8,450 per year at $2.50/L. So you've still spent under $30K for the year for an R34; under $20K for the year on an R33/R32 on initial car purchase and a tank a week and with money left over for mods. Not bad considering people go out and buy $40K plus generic Toyota's/Mazda's/Commodores/Falcons all the time and trade them in at 50% of their value a year later...who's in front? This is the way I look at it anyway...to summarize - Skylines are expensive to fuel, but their initial bang for your buck purchase price eliminates this.

Is the Bosch pump coming off an R34?

I have over the radiator style piping from my FMIC and honestly did not notice any extra lag. Hold boost better though and intake charge much cooler...

Just heard on the news that you can legally wash your car from Saturday in Sydney as water restrictions are being relaxed. You have to have a trigger nozzle though (like $5 from Big W). Anyway I never stopped washing the car as the bucket law is just dumb (how does pouring buckets full of water everywhere use less than a quick spray from a trigger) but now you don't have to worry about the boys in yellow...

Is this for GTR or GTT? I have one for a GTT - my mechanic told me to remove it as it stops you seeing when you have a fluid leak...

As above looking for an SAFC 2 or newer. Shoot me a PM. Cheers.

Is your car consuming oil? Your first post makes me want to ask this question.... Other than that if it is starter motor NRMA come out and replace at your home or work - I think its around the $200 mark.

Someone explained to me the reason why you have to do this but I forget now lol. Anyway i just purchased a brass screw in nipple from pirtek for $1.50 (supercheap, autobarn ect ones are all too big for the intended purpose). Then you just drill a hole in the pipe (dont need a tap and die) and screw in the nipple. I then just added some metal putty around the base of the nipple to seal it properly.

interested in the pics too. Thanks.

is this an auto or a manual?

There should be two speed sensors - one is part of the cluster the other is part of the gearbox...Find out which one your (working) Power FC is connected to (i.e. gearbox speed wire or dash speed wire) and then you will know which one is playing up.

lol just buy a set of torx keys - they are like $5 at supercheap (save you wrecking the head)

sounds a bit loud for lifters? Have you done a compression check? Not hard to do yourself.

Stock R1s run 9s. Maybe he didnt know what the twisty thing under his right wrist was?

I’ve recently gone from solely riding a sportsbike (CBR600RR) 7 days a week (for over a year) to owning a Skyline (R34 GTT) so will add my 2 cents. Pro's of the bike - Speed: (obviously), any gear will destroy pretty much anything on the road. Full stop, they are insane (I've owned 1000’s before and R1 is overkill for the road, 600 is more than enough. This is stock, no need to mod = save thousands on the modding bug. - Manoeuvrability: The tiniest of gaps is yours, which means no more sitting behind slow coaches in the right hand lane (this really frustrates me since getting the skyline). Also pretty easy to manoeuvre out of dangerous situations (e.g. if someone tries to merge into you) and obviously traffic is no issue due to lane splitting ability (lets not get into that can of worms on a car forum though…) - Parking: Pretty much fit anywhere for free. - Fuel efficiency: less than 6L/100kms and run 10’s stock – cant ask for more than that. - Women love them… Cons of the bike: - Safety: This depends on a combination of your roadcraft (not racing skill, I mean ability to anticipate others and set up the brakes ect); your willpower (ability to resist the need to do silly stuff) and a small portion of luck (no matter how careful you are things completely out of your control can happen). Unfortunately instead of a bent bumper your looking at months in hospital or death. - Comfort: R1 will kill your back (there is more comfortable sportsbikes out there but still not as comfy as a car). No rain protection - this means rain gear in the wet (hot and uncomfortable). Also due to the safety factor you need to wear helmet, boots, Kevlar jeans, leather jacket = very hot in summer, freezing in winter. When you get to work your clothes will be crushed and you stick, which means either keeping a spare set of clothes at work or getting changed. - Load carrying ability: If it doesn’t fit into a backpack its not coming with you. After 1 year with just a bike and 3 months with just a car I am now going to keep the Skyline and get another 600cc bike so I can have the best of both worlds. Commute mostly with the bike to save fuel and get through traffic and take the car when its rainy, windy, I need to carry something or I’m just tired. I really don’t think you need a 1000cc for road or track, 600 is more than enough speed (still too much!). 1000 has significantly higher running costs over a 600 too (fuel, tyres, purchase cost, maintenance ect.). I would never go back to just a bike and no car – takes too much dedication.

bump