KwS

different sizes front and rear will be fine. hell, some people even run just front or just rear spacers. Sexy wheels btw... do want.

My very dirty car.... still looks good in photos.

I would almost put money on it being dry solder joints in the tacho. Same thing happened to the speedo on my old 33. If youre brave, you can pull the tacho out of the cluster and resolder all the joints and it should come back to life.

Trial fit of my new wheels.

Pointless for an NA though tbh.... better off grabbing the 4pots from a 25T. Cheaper, and should bolt on.

Love the gold with silver lip 33GTR wheels! In fact, that whole car is flippin hot! ^^

My new 33... <3 Series 2

I know im digging this up a little, but this is just an FYI. I was running BA XR6 wheels on my old GTS25T. Looked freakin mint.

anyone have any answers to why this is? Would i be fine to just leave those restrictors alone and run them? Im still after a pic of the restrictors if anyone has one, just to be sure i have the right ones.

Doesnt that lower the compression to some stupidly low CR? Also, i read in another thread that balancing the crank is bad because of something to do with it being nitrided?

did you freshen the bottom up, with new bearings and rings, or just slap a head on it?

Cheers for the advice guys. Had another look at the block again today. Does anyone have a pic of the oil restrictors? Im pretty sure im looking at the right ones... but when i measured them they came out to have 1.3mm holes in both of them. I was under the impression that Rb30e was meant to have 2mm holes?

Hi guys Starting a 30 build, and just doing a plan of what i need, and what needs to be done. Done i lot of research, but a few things a little unclear to me. Im trying to do it on a tight budget, so its a stock 30e block, standard crank, rods and pistons. New rings and bearings. Using a R32 25DE head. The car will be running reasonably low power (200-250kw). Street driven, rev limited at 7000rpm. Will spend a fair bit of time tapping the redline. What i need to know, is if anyone has a decent size pic of the water and oil feed/drains on the exh side of the RB30 block (just to be sure which ones im using). Where does one get the restrictors for the oil from, and what size should i run? Do i even need to change them? People always talk about changing the oil pump to 25DET or 26DETT pumps, but can you happily use a standard 30 pump? or even a 20DE or DET pump? I dont want to sleeve the crank, as is needed with the R33 26 or 25 pumps. Cheers

another thing it could be, especially in a 33 is a dry solder joint in the cluster. Mine had a dry joint on the speedo, so i assume it could happen to any of the other gauges too. Main symptom that gives away the fact that its a dry joint is that the gauge wouldnt work when it was cold in the cabin. Chuck the heater on, and give the cluster a couple of hits and away it went. Fixed my cluster by pulling it to bits, and re-soldering all the joints for that gauge. Didnt take long, but you will need to be pretty good at soldering so you dont mess it up and kill the cluster for good.

VW Polo and Toyota Corona?

yes, im aware its in the manual, i have the same copy you have and its in it. What i want to know, is why i have never heard of anyones auto R33 actually running this lower boost? Everyone i have talked to, and everything i have come across has shown in real world use, the auto makes the same boost as the manual. The main reason for the lower power output seems to be the auto box sucking so much power.

my S2 auto definitely has a 2 stage solenoid in it (although mine is grounded to get high boost all the time)

im still not convinced. Is that manual for S1 or S2? Everything i have read, and tested points to the S2 (atleast) running 6psi/8psi factory boost, using the dual stage solenoid. Earthing that solenoid makes it run 8psi all the time. Thats regardless of if its manual or auto. Ive driven two auto 25Ts now, and both have done 8psi (one is my own one, and that runs 9psi due to free flow panel filter, no other engine mods), and the other one had exhaust done, ran 8psi. The second one was a S2 sedan. I havent driven a manual one yet, so cant comment on them.

my wing had 2 bolts on each side, and i think 2 big clips per side too. On my wing it had rubber 'gaskets' between the wing and boot lid, from factory. My car has nothing in that hole that your wires are coming out of, other than the wires. no grommet.

i know for sure, that on atleast S2 33's the rear wing stop light wiring is on the drivers side of the boot and it comes out of the loom by the gas strut. I have not seen that plug on my car, but my antenna is plugged in, so if i have it, its being used, if i dont have it... i dont know what it is.

if its the speedo causing issues, itll be on the gearbox end i'd say. My cluster had dry solder joints so my speedo stopped working for a bit, but the hicas never got angry. Obviously thats because the ecu was still seeing a signal, even if the cluster couldnt display it.

Uh, silly question, but cant you just follow the wires to see where they go?

Call me stupid, but im not seeing a good reason for that, or a good explanation on how to bleed the system...?

My S2 R33's windows work when the car is switched to on, but not ACC. None of the cars i have ever owned had the windows work when only on ACC. Do you windows work when key is to ON without engine running, or just when the engine is running?

It seems common, down here in NZ atleast, for nissans in general to rust in that sort of area. I have seen S13, S14, R33, and R34s with some form of either rust, or rust repair in that general area. None of those were due to accident repairs either, that guy above is just an asshole, that thinks he knows everything.