pnblight

mate you still dont get it take it to someone who know what there doing cause you dont have a clue and your only going to cost yourself more money in the long run pete ps i'm out of this thread (waste of time trying to help someone who will not listen, no mater how many people tell him who to fix it)

ok if your determined not to spend $99 to do it properly but are willing to risk motor damage. you need a direct line boost/vacuvm line to the actuator (no leaks/holes or slits) test this and it should make only ~7psi then if you want to raise the level ,tee in another line to this and fit a solid pill resistor START VERY SMALL (try 1mm then 1.5mm etc)vent it back into the intake piping in the std position (on the rear turbo intake hod\se you will find a small line this is the point to return the bleed prssure back(DO NOT VENT TO ATMOSPHERE) as under vacuvm this line will draw in air (dirt dust etc) your solid pill can be anything make of metal (brass, steel, cut of bolt etc) with a hole drill in it DO NOT USE A CABLE TIE around the pipe as there is no way to properly adjust it and i dont believe you will get the resistion you need plus what happens to cable tie with heat and age they break and stretch. You do this you deserve to loose another engine. the method above will work but i will warn you the boost levels will change with the weather etc and you have no way to adjust it to componsate. ie you might set it to 12psi on a heat dry day and on a cold humid day it could make 14psi plus (bye bye std turbos) pete

YOUR F..KING JOKING ARENT YOU SURELY? if you bought a GTR you can afford a $99 dollar bleed valve i think you should just sell the car as a beautiful ride like the GTR was never meant for someone like you. These car are an enginnering work of act and should be treat with some respect. Go turbo an Excel or something pete ps by the way it won't work

like i said run a boost line direct to the actuators with give you minium boost (to what the turbos are preset to)

if you disconnect the actuators line you will get max boost the actuators a able to hold on the std turbo that around 19 psi (way to much for the std turbo) if you put a direct line from boost to actuators you will get the minium the boost the actuators will run ~7 or 8 psi (i think not sure on this spring set) a bleed valve or boost controller just bleeds off a some of the boost pressure being supplied to the actuators to govern the pressure between these to points pete ps buy a $99 dollar turbo smart bleed valve and you will be able to set your boost fine, just keep the lines as short as posible to reduce piking.

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Cheers guys, just to clarify why i'm doing this is 1/ to get a better (meaning full) estimate of what the tomei cams are ie most other brands of cams from US are measured at the 50 thou lift point which gives you no idea what referrence is to a Japan cam (so i can compare apples with apples) 2/ Sydneykid the other reason is if you know where the cams are in relation to crank (not just setting on cam wheels) you can reinstall/ and reproduct the same setting on a different engine, as you are removing the variables out of the systems, plus you will find setting that work well and can go to them staight up and if you require dyno tune from there. Which can save a lot of time on the Dyno (which equals saved money and wear and tear) because anyone who has tuned exhaust cam timing will tell you it takes alot of time. I should also have the ability to go to a motor and dial in a cam timing i know will work. pete

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Hi Guys, Just trying to remember where true cam measurement is taken from, Memory is telling me at 50 thou (is the more excepted measuring point). I reason i'm asking is i going to measure up the true cam timing and actual overlap of my rb26, so i can reset on rebuild and have a bit more meaning fully information on where the cams are at the momnet. pete

Item:R34 GTR ENGINE PARTS Location:BUNBURY WA Item Condition:EXCELLENT (28,000KM) Reason for Selling:DUE TO UPGRADE Price and Payment Conditions:DIRECT TRANSFER Extra Info: Contact Details:[email protected] 0418956350 R34 GTR VSPEC 28,000 old RODS $380 OIL PUMP $275 WATER PUMP $100 ONO

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chasing over throddle body Infinity would be the go [email protected] pete

rebuild it no question plus i find it easier now to drop the subframe engine gearbox the lot to do any work on the engine but it requires a two post hoist (but god does it make life easier)Once out its so easy to remove/work on everything

ben you must be on some good drugs who pays 30k for a std gtr and where can you buy a 3k gts4 that is road worthly i recently saw a gtr32 with fully n1 engine and turbos and over sized brembo (large than std r33) custom radiator, ecu, coilovers the lot land in oz for low 20's thats a lot of car and that car has got 11's written all over it and track lap times to suit. as for just dropping a rb30det in a gts4 with gts4 sump and i exspect a rb26 head have any of you built one of these motor it not cheap or easy plus to compair it to a gtr you need things like the gtr intercooler and piping, fuel system etc etc guys do yourself a favour and write it all down and put some real life figures to it with labour to fit etc i thing you will be shocked as for the 500 to 800 dollar gtr gearboxes did you read the condition on these boxes as from memory one was burnt and the other had issues you will pay 1200 to 1500 for one worth having you will pay 1250 to 1500 for rb26 head alone plus you will need plenum/throddle body/exhaust manifolds/dump pipes/oil lines/water lines(you could burn a 1000 easy) plus coils $300 fuel pump $200 injectors $300 you will pay 400 to 500 for a gtr intercooler intercooler piping $ how knows depends on the quality of the jobbut a system to compare to the std gtr will be $$$ cant remember what the sump adaptors are worth but i'm sure someone can fill in the blank$ plus you need to modify the block to run the cam belt for the twin cams plus what oil pump and you will need to modify oil gallerys or you will run into the problems alot of the rb30 engines have had on this forum your also look at a clutch for sure (to handle rb30) so far i have not left the engine bay and yes the hubs and drive shafts are different (smaller and weaker) and yes the brakes are different (smaller and weaker) you might think these small differences dont cost much but add them up and yes they make a big difference on the track. you might make a nice gts4 for the price of a gtr and some but do not try to compare them. The gtr in its standard form is classed a Supercar and the worlds fastest 4wd turbo production car.

I think you will find there is more different between the gtr and gts4 than most think of the track the guards to comidate this track diffs gearbox suspension sway bars full chasis bracing brakes (depends on models) front guards alloy bonnet alloy drive shafts hubs these are just a few that come to mind you can not exspect to drop a motor in a gts4 and compare it to gtr complete handing package, if you desire a gtr save up and buy one if you try to short cut it you will end up spending more money in the end trying for the same result. my 2c pete

100mm plus intercooler gtr style (prefer japan brand) pete [email protected]

i got a set if you want them pm me pete

Contact Markr34gtr is the man to talk to for CP pistons (very nice product) i used a set from mark on a r34 gtr vspec making 500rwhp plus happily. They run a 0.0035 clearance which is pretty good for forged pistons. pete

i thought the gt pistons were forged as in the Z tune specs they talk about forged light weight pistons (z tune uses all the gt gear) trying to confirm this at the moment and see if i can actually buy the gt pistons pete

OK THANK YOU GUYS so i can keep the Pauter rods and use a GT crank but have to run special pistons to allow for extra stoke? I'm thinking some of the after market kit might have gone down the same road with pin to deck height reduction (hks 2.8 etc) will have to see what i can find out and prices of the nissan verses after market gear. pete

no but i am interested in the gt crank, but i already got Pauter rods which i would most likely have to sell if i when down this road and buy the gt rods or something similar. pete

Hi guys, Was just wondering if anyone new the length of the std conrod , as i'm looking at the GT Nismo crank and rods (the crank looks to be around 78.5mm stoke and the conrod length 121.5mm)i know the std stoke is 73.7mm but i dont know the conrod length? Has anyone used this items in a build up? pete

There's a lot of variables in that question, cams and cam timing will play a very big part power curve, plus exhaust system etc but it will largely depend on the efficiency of the engine (ie the power it makes at what rpm) this will govern when the turbo runs out of puff. pete

Not that i disagree the gtrs arn't a good turbo, it's just i have not seen any of them product much better top end at all over (GT2560R/HKS 2530) for the reduced low down responce and spool up. It might just be no body has found the right setup or posted a thread on it. I think markgtr34 made around 570rwhp is the best i have heard about, but i know of plenty mid 500rwhp twin 2530/gt2560r/t517z etc so my point is ,is 20rwhp worth loosing bottom end and responce. pete

what afms are you using and are you using std cams