pnblight

something you might find of interest is the cams tomei recomend for there street turbo kits (nothing over 260deg duration just different lift profiles) http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...28_ARMSkit.html Recently after porting my rb26 head i did find the exhaust port in need of quiet a bit of work and the inlet was pretty much fine just needed a good smoothing of casting marks etc. I would think there would be conciderable gains to be had on the exhaust side through porting which should help to even up the mismatch from inlet to exhaust stated above, but i would also think the the flow rates would not need to be the same as the combustion pressure driving the exhaust gas would be far greater than the boost pressure driving the inlet. And all in all the rb26 head is a work of art as its a 2.6litre motor that can flow 600bhp through the std head which is simply awesome. pete

The only gearbox i have is a altered 4wd auto for the rb series engine (alter for high hp use in drags) had $1500 spent on it.

updated

yes both pumps still available

bump

Yeah 1.2m head gasket will be fine The std rods will take alot but 700bhp would be the limit and after such an $$ rebuild it would be a shame to lose a leg out the side(i got my pauter forged rods for $1500AUD deliveried) The N1 oil pump is not NISMO and is the same as std, bare a stronger pressure relief spring and if your not going over 8000rpm will be fine. What cams are you running and have you bought adjustable cam wheels for them? What will the primary purpose of the car be? pete

This sounds a little different then the normal oil pressure on turbo seals The engine would have been up to temp by the time you ran into a problem yes? Are you running std oil pump? What turbos are you running? Are you sure you did have an oil breather problem out of the rocker covers (to much oil to the from head constant high revs with poor draining) as a friend did this recently made a hugh mess in the engine bay and there is a connecting pipe to the intake which could explain the bovs

$725 US + $988 AUD plus postage etc sounds about right

boring and honing of block DECK THE BLOCK AND THE HEAD ALSO (to help the metal head gasket seal) polished and balanced crank IS YOUR RB CRANK R32 IF SO YOU WILL NEED TO FIX THE OIL PUMP DRIVE JUN CRANK COLLAR hks forged pistons 1mm oversize or CP MAKE GREAT PISTONS USA nismo n1 oilpump FOR THE BHP I WOULD CONCIDER A JUN OIL PUMP(especially if you plan to rev it hard) nismo rod and main bearings NISMO THE BEST jun headstuds hks 1,6mm headgasket YOU ARE NOT CONCERN WITH RESPONCE BY RUNNING A THINK HG YES? tomei rod bolts I WOULD BUY RODS ie PAUTER IN USA OR TOMEI/HKS ALL GOOD tomei oil gallery orifice YOU HAVE NOT MENTIONED THE HEAD SPECS what did you plan to run as bhp is basically pistons up? pete

96gtrman i made my own 3.5' system with with twin 3' down pipes into 3.5' straight throught two the rear where at the time i could not buy the muffler(s) i wanted so as a tempary measure i cut the back off the standard unit gutted it and fitted the 3.5' into rear with the twin 2.5' standard tail pipes, the result was quiet awesome since then i have made 530rwhp with the system and i great a number of comments on the note of the gtr which is not really that loud so cruising isnt a problem/or police but it still has a nasty angry note. I used all mandal bends and also made custom 3' one piece dumps(like what tomei sell) pete ps if you take your time fitting it you can have it hang at the same height as std the diff is not a problem

any pics

what ever you do use a timing light and its a good habit to scribe the positon of the cas before you start, as it will make it easy to reset it to the original time

How does Toluene fair with the O2 sensors as i know there are octane booster there aren’t O2 sensor compatible. pete

guy its a rb30 crank so he cant use a rb26 crank as the stoke would be wrong and the whole point of using the rb30 block is for the longer stroke. Dave i think your only really opinion is to buy a jun collar and fit it to your crank Proengines stated it takes a couple of hours to fit. As you have treated the crank it would seem a wait to weld it up and regrind so best bet buy the jun collar. pete ps i would definitly address this weakness for what you are trying to do

GTR R33 ET 11.332 MPH 125.17 60' 1.757 fuel bp ulimate tyres federals 529.4rwhp 20psi twin gt2560r turbos

sss hoon dude stick to stuff you know as you dont know shit about the GTR awd system, the system is hydaulic drive clutch pack and you dont want to lock it up full time as it WILL tear the front diff apart as you will not have any slip between front and rear which becomes a problem went tight cornering (lowish speed) as the front wheels cut a wider arc then the rear and bang goes the weak link the front diff, you might ask why wrx etc dont have a problem but they have a lsd or open diff arrangement betwwen frt and rear NOT a LOCKER. I broke a front diff at the drags running a hydraulic lockup system by just turning off the corner at the end of the strip before releasing the system.

looks nice BUT i hate fake badge GTR it does the real thing no justise, i have no problems building a gtt to look like a GTR just dont badge the ...king thing. sorry dude it just shits me

$120 bore and hone $55 decking of the block $30 acid bath Ron Bell Engine Reconditioning in WA

yeah me to just finish hand porting mine last week and the head has been rebuilt but i will watch this thread with interest. Getting the first ports right would be the time consuming part i guess and the gain over std would be the selling point, it might be worth flowing the std port and develop the template ports inlet/exhaust as if you have flow test showing the increase of the port design in question it would be alot more easy to justify the cost if you know you will get x amount of increase flow (you know what your buying so to speak) Great again to see someone trying new things with sau great stuff proengines pete

Hi Sly33, as you requested results are a little old and the new motor will be fired up very soon Standard internals for 2 years GTR R33 Apexi PFC and hand control Apexi ACVR Garret turbos 707160-5 Sard 700cc injectors Bosch Afms (Z32) Tomei Poncams 260 9.15mm Tomei adjustable cam wheels Tomei timing belt N1 water pump Custom 3" intake kit Custom 3 1/2" exhaust (custom 3" dumps) Rest was std manifold/fuel pump/reg/intercooler/plenum/fuel rail/head etc etc This motor is currently being upgraded to forged internals and getting a few other nice bits and pieces CP Pistons Pauter Rods June oil pump Tomei head gasket kit/block restrictor Nismo bearings Custom port work on the head Oil cooler kit Apexi with relocator and 19 row cooler G-reddy radiator 48mm Blitz 102mm intercooler Hks manifolds (hpc coated) as you can see alot of work is going into cooling as this is built for track work as well as street. I will post results in this thread once the motor is up and running and run in pete ps i have also a r34 gtr vspec i have been working on with similar spec i might be able to post for you SLY33 after the wkd have to wait and see.

added final post to first post as asked i just hope it helps make more people awhere of what they will get when buying the product as i know i would not have bought the product knowing what i know now. pete ps one $$$ lesson for me

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e061_conrod.html To finish off the story i have recieved word back from the supplier who has confirmed that the bearings are std bearings coated in the tomei finish(micro finished) then sold as tomei bearing ,so my orginial concern was wrong that there just resold but i was right the the base is a std bearing unit resurfaced. But i have already accessibled the bottom end with nismo big end bearings from x-speed. so if anyone want some tomei spec 1 bigends for a rb26/25 $200(cost me over $300 to land) pete

The feed back i have had from people running these turbos are that they work reasonability well and seem to take a bit of punishment BUT because of the cheap construction and materials used they will not spool as quick a good Garret or HKS turbo etc but they will still make a reasonable power figure and those run a respectable 1/4 mile as responce isn't very importane for drags etc .I dont think these would be well suited to track use tho, this is only my opinion from results i have seen in relation to performance gained for these turbos. So if you just want a bit more hp and do occuational drags and dont mind a bit of lag time they might just be a good option for you. ok i think i better exspand on my statement about responce is not important for drags, as you know most of the best turbo combos for drag are just big hp combos lag not a real consideration as you can lauch at 7000rpm or higher and once off the line its all about getting hp to the ground. If lag was a consideration of drag racing you would never see twin Veilside 3542 twin combos run etc as turbos that size would take some spooling up.

it looks like it got VIC on the plates

ok if they dont use abs sensor of wheel speed (wheel slip) how does the unit detect wheel slip. Does the N1 still have the abs wheel sensors it may not have the abs but i would put a good bet the sensors are still in place.