pnblight

the turbos, injectors and afms will be your limiting factors at round 400rwhp(480bhp) order of best buys for returns in hp 1.APEXI pfc ($1000) with hand controller A MUST!!!!! 2.SARD 700cc injectors($700) i would replace afms at same time a set of rb20/25afms ($300 sec hand) 3. TOMEI poncams 260deg 9.15mm lift with adjustable wheels (~$1300) *forget about head gasket unless you blow one as it is a hugh costly job and will give you next to nothing at this level of mod. *do the cams last as if you dont upgrade the injectors and afms first you will not be able use them to there fullest and there for waste time and money tuning. *the r34 turbos are ceramic and i would not run them above 1.1bar at the very most unless you want to rebuild the motor like the r34 i just finished rebuild due to a blow r34 ball bearing turbo. *if you get serious about a bit hp upgrade your turbos to something like gt2560r 707160-5 or the 2530 HKS as they are bolts and give the best around package power and responce pete

there only one draw back with the TRUST sump it hangs below the cross member and if you ever run a curb etc (track day) the first thing to hit will be the sump, this is the reason why so many people build custom sumps that go out to the sides instead of down. Not saying don't but just making you awear. pete

I use 3' hard piping 2 std mandral bends for the rear and you need to tight radius for the front, done 3 car like this now with afms but with out will be easier.

Just get the light weight shock proof it was recommend to me from a gearbox specialist how had a std box running 10sec 1/4 on it

I wish i had a OS Giken Cross gear set also, as they seem to be the pick of the crop for street use (valve for money) and leewah is putting what 800awhp through his but i will add i believe he's got a few extra bit like billet centre plate etc to help with stability. Well it's only one power ball away hehehe pete

Redline light weight shock proof If you buy a shifter i would get a C's short shifter cost a bit but are a very good unit and bolt on in like 5 to 10mins when in the car if box out half that. They only shorten the gear select action and can not put strain on the box any different to a standard shifter. pete

nissanfreak does the rb30 have forged rods and what bearings you running

dude the old ratio was like 160kms 4000rpm and we are only dropping 6%(8000rpm=320 - 6% 300km) or there abouts how often do people want to do 300km plus, but mine can run out to 9000rpm with full new internals now so it more than off set it (~338kms) and no i dont intent to find out. The fast i have ever run the car was back ages ago once 280km it was still pulling on and i had like a 100rwhp less than i do now but i really dont have any interest to try it again as the world is flying pass pretty damn quick. pete

is it the garret t04z if so the garret ball bearing turbos are rate to 2 bar max but if you want much reliability i would say 20psi(if everything is as it should be).

I should be able to tell you very soon as drop all remaining AWD components back in last night (have been running the gtr in, in 2wd) done over 1300km now on minium boost (feeling rather proud not to have give in to temption hehe). I just got to finish fitting new oil cooler and complete oil and filter change. So hope like friday arvo i should be able to see the full impact of the different ratios. pete hows your travelling along (whats the kms up to now lol)

cani get pics of the gtr rear end to [email protected]

I wouldn't go the z32 afms unless your aiming over 540rwhp (and that level really requires a forged internal motor) the rb20/25 afms plug straight in the existing harness and match up with pfc at a press of a button (rb20/25 afms ~$300 sec hand)(pfc ~$900 to $1000 new)pfc is plug and play. Much better choice value for money. pete

gts 4 has 8 to 35 ratio 4.375 gtr has 9 to 37 ratio 4.111

that sound about right 4.11/20=0.2055 x 21 =4.3155 (close enough 4.375) thanks guys

steve you the man thanks

Hi Guys, Just completed my diff ratio swoop in the gtr from 4.11 to 4.375(gts4) and i was wounder if anyone knew how to alter the speedometer to read correctly. As i believe it should be out now yes? Any help would be much appreciated. pete ps did search with no luck

I think the biggest problem here is your got to add more detail Is this a drive in/drive out quote? as a lot of people are only thinking of rebuilding the motor but to remove and reinstall etc will added like proengines said $1500 up to $2500 depending on workshop and hourly rate. example of part prices ~ CP piston $1375 nissan bearing $300 gasket kit $300 arp rod bolts $100 block machining and decking $200 tomei block restrictor $15 timing belt $110 water pump $320(gone up recently) acid bath $50 misc (painting,cleaning etc etc) $300 head servicing is a bit of and unknown till you see the head $700 the cheapest you could hope for and that’s with no exhaust guides (which in r32 I don’t think you would get away with tho) That’s bare essentials It would be advisable to add Crank collar $350 Oil pump n1 $560 Exhaust guides $? so you can see why its easy to get $6000 plus engine rebuild when you add labour plus another $2000 for removable and installation so $10,000 might be a bit dear but if they allowed for installing forged rods that is all it would take to make the bill reach that mark.

R31 is the car for you 1. 3 litre strong torquey motor (so still a lot of fun to drive) 2. cheap to insurance (trust me you will flip when you see insurance for an import at 19) 3. Reiable not many maintain costs 4. Part readily available 5. and if your got the turbo bug you can drop a turbo in easy as later on so do yourself a favor and get some expirence in a car like this you'll not regret it, Have a look on the r31 forum the boys have alot of fun. pete

my god that is ugly, isnt scary that someone spent so much time and money to make a custom piece of s..t.

hows 10.38 from a smaller set of 2530hks grab you, name me a t04z that got close to that and on GT-RS i only know of one guy run them hard on the strip i believe he ran a 10 with them (it's hard to judge a combo on 1/4 times when nones really push them hard down there but i believe in the near future there a gtr that could change all that in wa) the other little fact i would like to bring to people attention is 2530 rated at 640hp t04z rated at ?800hp efficience and ease of install lives with the twins as a bolt on combo

ok the rb20/25afms can normally be bought around $150ea but try and get a good set. If your got a dodgy coil fair enough was just saying it not a necessary upgrade if there healthy. If your got a strong motor in good shape it will run that level for quiet a while, mine ran for two year (at 520 to 530rwhp) and only started to show signs of getting tired after i had to leave my gtr with my brother and when i got back it wasn't the same, so i find it hard to blame the car for that. I have talk to Kier Wilson about the limitations on std engine and his opinion after putting a few through there passes is the still engine will surport round 700 to 750bhp (but i worn we are talking about new std components not a tired 15 year engine) R32 are a bit like a box chocolates hehee you never know as there get a bit old. So if you want to run the gtr hard and live in std form you have adopt so habits like always let it warm up fully before thrashing it, service it regularly and run good products and it is best to adopt a lower boost setting for genernal every day driving .I run about 14psi every day (which is still around 460 to 470rwhp in my car) pete

Nick what would you call your target rwhp or awkw etc ? as there might be other alternatives to your GT-SS HKS that will deliver better responce and drivable than something the size of a T04Z. I personally would only recommend a turbo that size if your chancing 440 to 450rwkw anything much under that i believe you can be better served with a different combo. pete

:lol: :lol: HEHE the gt2560r 707-160-5 are the unit i'm using they also come in -7 -10 the easiest way to tell the difference with out seeing the name plate is the -5 is the only one with a 0.60 a/r compressor housing(where the -7 & -10 run 0.42 a/r housing). And if your making 240rwkw at 10psi wait till you get it 14psi plus as this is where they really start to wake up, Garret Australia state that there a good for 2 bar but are best run about 18psi. I'm a little concerned tho as mine setup for Turbotec would not run as low a 10psi the base setting (half a hole tension on waste gate control arm) run just under a bar. pete ps my advice on next steps would be a little different i am still running std coils at 530rwhp and don't see the need to change them yet 1.APEXI PFC 2.rb20/25 afm are half the price and plug straight in (range to around 540rwhp) z32 are good but $$ and unless your looking at big hp you will just better resultion with the rb20/25 afms. The std nismo 62mm afms unit cause more restriction that the 80 mm rb20/25 or z32 afms(plus i personally descreen mine to reduce restriction) 3.700cc injectors Sard are very well priced and easy to buy through greenline.jp or nenegun 4.Tomei poncams 260deg 9.15mm ex/inlet with adjustable wheels =~480 to 500rwhp

thanks gary but i actual said it has Never gone or 72deg even on a really hot day with a/c on the works, so i guess that means like you stated the cooling system is now up to the upgrade for general surpose driving will have to see how it fairs on the track. (so posible i might be able to tune it quiet hard) Gary what oil temp would you consider safe to run and engine hard on 60deg up wards? pete

hi chasing the under floor brace just in front rear diff and also chasing abs sensor lead from right front hub to plug just inside engine bay. pete [email protected] 0438934777