pnblight

any update on the car ???

you missed my whole point cruiseliner i use std or near std well tuned examples of gtr's to say why would you spend all that money, time and effort to gain 20rwkw if it makes it. Doesn't that seem a little silly waste of time and money. But this is only my opinion and i'm sure it a very nice gtr. cruiseliner do you now understand what i was trying to say as for mine is going like a stream train but the only issue i got is the new low temp thermostat and large greddy radiator are keep running temp to low for my liking and i will be going back to std thermostat. A running temp of 65 to 68deg is to low for me and is keeping the pfc in the cold water temp compensation tune(rich as). The question is how is your going put a final tune through it with some boost? Unfortaunately most of my time at the moment is going into project number to silvia drifter i'm building up. pete sorry if it seemed i was have a go at singles but the combo does seem worth time and effort for the results gained.

ha mash, what is your intake system like as everyone concentrates on exhaust and forgets the same airflow that passes out the exhaust has to make it in and it isn't forced in it has to be drawn in under vacuvm through air filters and piping which is not all that good. I have found running the 80mm afms (rb20/25 or z32) descreen and solid 3" hard piping very worth whiled and apexi pod filter(maybe the best pod on the macket for flow and cleanlyness) bolt straight up to the 80afms. pete ps just another thing to consider

my 2c sorry to be negiative but it does seem like a very good upgrade in dollars for hp as i compare the reasults to a r32gtr running r400 turbos (which are std size but stell wheeled)at 16psi making ~390rwhp r34gtr running std turbos 400rwhp so its seem strange to me to go to such effort for 20rwhp ????? when a small turbo upgrade of the low mounts can land you over 100rwhp more and no i'm not having a go at singles in general but this upgrade doesnt seem to give much gains per dollar. pete ps im running std r33 fuel pump at 530rwhp std fuel reg and running in the low 70% range most of the time at low 500rwhp

32 dumps should be cast 34 dumps are stainless from memory and are quiet reasonable design pete ps if the cast r32 i would upgrade running your 34n1 turbos but if they are 34 ss dumps you'll be fine

STILL AVAILABLE

dvs32r there is a simple test to see if you are at the limit of the waste gate but be carefully and it is simply remove the boost line from the wastegate and block it off now you are running the max boost that waste gate can hold and to see the minium connect the a boost line to the waste gate with no obstruction which will give you the least you can run. I believe like the others have said you have reach the maximum of the current waste gate configuration and the tuner who told you to buy a different EBU is lead you on a wild goose chase. pete ps have you posted a dyno sheet on the forum would be interested to have a look

you will find the physical side of the install the problem with your spiking and not the settings. You must keep the the lines as short as posible because a small diameter long line only bleeding a few pounds off will have a delay effect and so causing a spike and AVCR can do nothing to stop this. pete

why? a couple of reasons 1/ mid 500's rwhp can be had with quiet small low mounts (hks2530 or gt2560r) which would cover 90% of normal uses and about 35% of the cost 2/ twin high mounts are not cheap to setup and are really limited in there use because of the hp output 3/ the last gtr i saw with twin mounts was running 9.3sec 1/4 so not your everyday driver (and they were about as small as the twin high mounts come hks2835) pete

ok the hks2530 do spare some parts with gt2560r ie turbine wheel and housing but the garret run a different compressor wheel and to try and explain the difference from what i have seen it the garret spool better and are more efficient below 1.5bar but the hks 2530 can really come in to there own after 1.5bar. The garret gt2560r 707160-5 are the best early spool and low end hp i have seen reliative to there potient. 3500rpm ~135rwhp 4000rpm ~180rwhp 4500rpm ~240rwhp 5000rpm ~360rwhp 5500rpm ~435rwhp 7500rpm ~529.4rwhp so as you can see the power is early and quiet linear to explain by seat of the pants ride the engine pulls from 3000rpm and the its on turbos and hailing by 4000rpm which makes it an awesome track car, very fast and user friendly. pete ps hope that helps

YES very achievable as there a number of rb26 low mount twins running this awkw around the place. Equipment needed Turbos .Garret Gt2560r 707160-5 or the HKS 2530 (these are the best two choices for what you want) Ecu. Apexi PFC (only choice in my option for street gtr) Afms. RB20/25afms (up to 530rwhp)and Z32 afms over this level (descreen the afms is good tip) Injectors. 700cc sards Cams. Tomei poncam 260deg 9.15mm lift or similar HKS etc Cam Wheels. Tomei make great units but any will do the job (yes very importane in the final tune) Exhaust. You need dumps and full exhaust (3 1/2" is good or twin system) Fuel system. The r32 needs a direct power supply to the fuel and most likely a pump upgrade the r33 and r34 can make the hp if the pressure is not altered on the std system. I would note running this power for any length of time especially in a r32 you will need forged pistons and a set of arp rod bolt (atleast). there are many other nice things you can add but i have just listed what i have found you will need Pete ps as for the cost of all that well it variies to much and also weather your willing to work on the car yourself

mark99 do you have the data on the internals bore size ,stoke length now destoked and compression ratio? And what do you think the limits of the combo are in rmp, rwhp and boost. pete

mark firstly nice work, Can i ask did you extend the block? as it sounds like you have increase the stoke and allowed for it in the piston design (pin height) which will work but has serious long term issues as the stoke to conrod ratio will be extreme as the rb26 run a low ratio std. What this means is the rods have pivot alot more through each stroke and adds alot more load (wear) to rods, bearings and crank.Guys like sydneykid can explain alot better then me. Please dont take this the wrong way as i know it works and its a great effort to have a go and do something custom yourself much cheaper than buying japanise kit but i believe the reason the japan kits only run a slight increase in stoke is mainly due to this isssue. pete

Ok this is the strange thing with these turbo I am quoting the number physical stamped gt2560r 707160-5 on the turbo BUT the garret website list them as you said gt2860r 707160-5 go figure the reason I keep quote the gt2560r number is so when someone pickup a set they will know they are the same. Pete 3li3 32 as you mentioned the smooth linear power curve makes these perfect for street/track use as they deliver power early and smooth and very predicable so you can the maximum down to the ground.

I JUST CHECKED THE RB26 RESULTS THREAD AND JUST TO SHOW THAT THE GARRETS CAN MAKE THE HP AND MINE IS NO FREAK JIMMAH 470AWHP ON 98 OCT (WHICH YOU LOSS ATLEAST 40 OR 50 RWHP TO AWHP)

no bp 98 like it saids in my threads plus my point was 450awkw even on race fuel a big figure for 2530hks that brought back to 98 would run well over mine.

ok guys i'm not wanting to have to go through and justify myself all over again i have the graphs form different dyno plus the 1/4 time and speed to back it up (yes if i tried a bit hard at the drags i could run a faster time but i dont want to buy special tyres or destroy a box to do it i have big issues to spend my money on at the moment) i only tried to bring to maz attention another option and i believe a very good option as for gt2560r or 2530hks making the hp you need to remember two6l 450awkw and 10.3 1/4 mile and my car is not unique there a number of car run this power on similar sized turbos. there are a few thing i have done different on my rb26 that may explain the extra rwhp but the shit i copied on early thread i found it not worth it. So take the advice or leave it, it's no skin off my nose but i would think twice before having a go at a company like Hyperdrive. pete ps best of luck with the upgrade

well believe it or not but i have multiple dyno sheets from different workshop and all are post on this forum and i have repeat the success on a number of gtrs to gain the 500rwhp plus you do need cams ,injector and afms but i am baffled why people pick the gt-ss over the gt2560r as i have not seen a gtr produce more hp or torque under 5000rpm then mine, that is why i use these turbos for street and track purposes as turbo responce and bottom end are my biggest needs. But i am only making a possible alterative it might be worth contacting JAGr33 as he was running Trust turbos at about the same level of performance 530rwhp but has since changed to gt2560r due to the lightning turbo responce they give as maybe a independ opinion might be what you need. But seriously for your own sake give they turbo a good looking over, Garret know what there doing pete

I still think you cant go past the Garret GT2560R 707160-5 turbos for std motor they spool every bit as good as the gt-ss and have better top end for less boost and are more friendly to the pocket (these are the r34n1 turbos with the 0.6 comp housing not the 0.42) on std internals and 20 psi i have made 530rwhp and have run them on the car from basically since day dot when the r33 gtr was stock std. pete

Hi I sent you email Keen on CA raditor shroud need price and postage cost to wa pete 0438934777 [email protected]

The air flow meters will work fine as they only pick up air moment by the cooling effect on as hot wire so if the piping goes 2 into 1 and back to 2 it will still sense the total air flow. I believe most ecu average the two signal but if you have problem will enbalances between the two airflows you can link the signal wires to give a physical averaging effect. (this works as it was done to my gtr when it had a SAFC2 fitted to it as the unit can only process one signal) Pete

condition of the rods is perfect and i will try to post pics of parts over the wkd cheers

R33 RB26 Block std bore $800 R33 RB26 rods $300 R34 Rb26 rods $320 Gaskets Nissan head gasket $60 intake manifolds $20 exhaust manifold $30 Best regards, Peter Blight Technical Officer SWISPEC Industrial Controls Pty Ltd 10 Verschuer Place Bunbury W.A. 6230 Direct Phone: (08) 9780 1615 Phone: (08) 9725 6666 Fax: (08) 9725 6006 Mob: 0418 956 350 E-Mail: [email protected]

Has anyone seen specs on the IHI z-tune turbos ?

That’s not entirely true Because well sized and setup cams can reduce the restriction to airflow of a motor dramatically meaning as SK would state you can make the same or more horse power with less boost and the less boost pressure the turbos have to product the more air volume they can pump. So cams can help get much more out of a give set of turbo regardless. On similar lines it bugs me that people get so concerned about what boost is made by what rpm. As it no true guide to response and performance of an engine setup. For example a motor that makes 1 bar at 3500rpm and 200rwhp is not more responsive then a motor making .5bar boost at 3500rpm and 250rwhp the first motor is just more restrictive and making the turbos work harder earlier. We should be more concerned with torque and hp by what rpm rather than boost as it is what you'll feel and what will make a real difference. So when i see a motor making boost very early it’s normally tell me there some thing wrong and the motor does not want to flow well. pete(only my 2c)