pnblight

well when i mean easy i mean you won't have to strip the car to but a small mirror might make it alot easier and the r32/r33 will have .42 a/r marking on the comp housing the r34 is the only turbo i know of with the .53 comp housing and it is mark as such. As i got to broken ones in the shed at home off clients car. pete ps dont boost to 18psi as even the r34 break wheels and destroy motors (damn ceramic wheels pain in the neck)

It's pretty easy to pick the r34 turbos the comp housing has a A/R 0.53 marked clearly on it and should be visible even when installed. pete

have you concidered the Jun 2.7 kit full counter balanced

justin i don't believe your main problem is in boost control, I can quiet safety say that you have got big problems. Unfortunately there are many issues that contribute to boost responce compression ratio cam timing (very big) exhaust design induction system design this is a dyno sheet of a rb26 with the bigger gt2860r turbos www.hyperdrivems.com.au/images/dyno/peterblight.jpg so best responce is possible and i would be looking at the cam timing (both exhaust and inlet) and restriction on intake and exhaust systems. pete ps hope it helps best of luck

frankxinyu the garret Gt2871 are basically the HKS GTRS turbo and are quiet common on the rb26 but they have had mixed results. They do make more power than the 707160-5 gt2860r but not by much and the turbo responce loss i believe doesnt out power gain. The best results gained fromt the HKS GTRS/GT2871 have been on stoked rb27/28 or rb30. You find it hard to beat the garret Gt2860R 707160-5 or HKS 2530 for alround twin low mount turbos. Pete

OK the figures your dealing with x 100mmHG(as shown on gauge) and 1 Bar = 770mmHG or 7.7 on the gauge is 1bar(14.7psi) so 5 (500mmHG) =0.65bar(9.54psi)

MATT nice work and it does look at 150km's you hit the limit of the fuel pump, BUT there is a posible little thing you can do to help will the fuel pump until you can replace it. That is to run a good heavy gauge power supply wire to your fuel pump as the standard system normally has to much volt drop across it (meaning your not getting full 14v charge volts to the pump) you can use the exist power system to switch a relay controlling the heavy gauge if you like and also ground the pump well. This is not a total solution but can offen gain quiet abit of exa performance out of the exist pump and will definitely help went the new pump going in. (voltage to torque ratio is a square root relationship meaning a little voltage drop will lose a lot of torque). As for be lean BS running 12:1 through the majority of the power range is great and safe, and at only 12psi you could quiet easily run leaner without a problem. The only problem is the lean out trend at the end as you have already identified. pete ps i run 12:1 at 500 to 530rwhp for 2 years at 18 to 20psi no problems.

well you have proved my point for me my gtr runs 530rwhp at 500kms plus per tank and xspeed have gtr running higher hp running same range AND the close loop is automatic and is for fixed throddle position (cruising) you cant and would never use the closed loop for tuning top end

WRONG the map can get reasonable results but can not get the same results a close loop as it tunes REAL time and will tune to the fuel its currnetly running the lot, and the map is only as good as its last tune (which can be quiet different to current condition) ie did you know that fuel companies run different blends summer to winter for example. And might i ask why does the close loop keep the cat alive , because it stops it running rich all the time when it doesn't need to be (rich means bad fuel comsumption). And last of all offen the needs of a map in one place between cruise and active driving are different and only this function gives you that option. I have no doubt the haltech will make great power and the car will drive fine BUT it will not compete when it comes to balanced performance and fuel comsumption pete ps Xspeed has also had great results with the pfc d-jetro with high hp gtr run great fuel comsumption

ok you basically have two systems that run the fuel system mixtures 1/maps that are preset valves according to rpm and afm reading pfc run a 20 by 20 map one axles rpm and the other afm (loading) 2/ close loop which is engauged when a fixed throddle position is maintained for small period of time (ie cruising or idle etc) this is basically a self tuning system using the o2 sensor to tune its self while the fixed throddle position is maintain. It is the best way to get good fuel comsumption out of a high performance turbo engine as it means you can keep the map safe and rich but the car will lean back to normal when cruising. pete ps i hope i explained it correctly not the best at doing so lol

QUESTION guys does the haltech run the close loop function as the std ecu and pfc does as this is critical for fuel consumption if you use the car as a everyday driver. As in this day and age with fuel for every getting more exspensive being apply to have a car of over 500rwhp and still do over 500kms per tank of fuel is hugh bonus. I pfc is my only choice for a atreet driven car. pete

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ok quincy, If your heart is set on the r32 (i like the little gts 32 aswell) and alot of the other options are really adding up to big dollars maybe you might concider stay with the rb20 buy gtr crank and rods $600 (bolt in fit) Tomei forged rb24 pistons (i have heard 4g63 can be used but i have not confirmed this)$1500 Tomei cams 260 deg 8.8mm lash with cam wheels $1100 With the increased capacity and performance of the cams i think you could easily upgrade your turbo with any increases in lag (if tune right), just don't aim to big the turbo that seems to be around your size required and has produced 400rwhp on 2.4litre engine is the gt3071r $1695 you'll need external gate $400 you'll need gaskets, bearing etc (all the gear for full rebuild) ~$1000 but the bonus is at the end of the day you'll have a brand new motor 2.4 litres that doesn't require any alterations to fit like your other options and has forged internals great torque(has longer stroke than rb25) for your track work. The risk you run of buying a second upgrade motor is the condition is unknown and the life exspectance of it is unkown and eve. Alot of the things sydneykid mentioned i would do regardless of the package you go for ie the direct electrical feed to fuel pump, z32 afm and fuel regulator etc end of the day i think this would be your cheaper option and you'll have brand new motor that can really take more punishment than a std second replacement. I hope i may have just given you another option to consider for your upgrade. pete ps its just another option

steve northside nissan is the man as Bobbo stated

LOL you know i didn't even look to close at volume marking i just read the label and details on the oil to confirm it was the stuff the oilman(ukgtr forum) was talking about as i wasnt there to buy it ( at Repco) was helping a friend with the bosch part numbers for the z32afm and plug when i notice the motul. And i will need more than a 2 and 4 litre bottle as my GTR run like 9 plus litres now with custom sump and oil cooler, so oil changes won't be cheap but if it looks after the internals it will be well worth it, as forged internals, nismo bearing and the works dont come cheap so it would be silly to skip on the oil. Anyone running the 300v 15w50 in oz? thoughts etc? pete

guys i have found my local Repco store sells the Motul 300v 15-50 100%ester oil for around $94 per 5 litres, so that will be my next oil to try in the GTR as its time for a synthetic (run in period complete).

bump

hks pods i second that you would be better served with a stocking stretched over the afm Apexi pods are the shit ( i think best on the market) pete

Jeremy the only time the gtrs run into oil supply issues are on heavy cornering during track use so if your not aiming at track then a baffle and oil restrictor will be fine i dont even believe you need the extra return as this is to drain away the oil during oil surge from cornering. I WOULDN"T add extra oil to the std sump for drag meeting you would be asking for problems will oil surge, just install baffle and run good oil and std level and all will be sweet. If you have anymore questions on the oil surge feel free to pm me. pete ps nice hp figure

UNFORTUNATELY i know just how you feel Brad as i'm sure your a where the shit i have copied in the past posting result and development mods, SO you might have noticed i don't post new threads to the like anymore it a shame the forum can be f..ked up by a few d..ks. As i know the majority of uses are friendly and greatfull for the sharing of imfo. As for Buster well i the guys got issues Well i hope all is well with the rb27 and i will have to drop you a pm soon, I hope to have mine back on the dyno soon just to give it a good check up since the new motor is fully run in and happy. Pete

yes good method but make sure you 1/screw the bolts all the way in (to prevent thread damage) 2/keep the level as close to the back of the crank as possible (to minimise level on the bolts, to you dont damage them) pete

beer baron i think you should have a read of the uk thread as the guy OILMAN knowledge of oils is like Sydneykids knowledge of rb30's the nissan oil is recommend for a std engine and road use the nismo would be aimed a performance evironment and is more revalent to most uses in referrence to the weights used. I would just say the imformation is of no use to us as the outside temp is slighty colder as the motors temp are all the same (thermostat control the major part of operating temp and 5 to 10deg outside temp will have little bearing on the oil)

how can you say that the only difference between here and there is cold start after that the temp and condition the oil see are identical as both motors (here and US) will run at ~80deg and hp is hp no matter where you make it. The fact that even in cold countries like japan and england they run thicker oil was an eye opener and the fact the NISMO in japan recommend a 1060w was very interesting. As i think NISMO know how to build and run high performance motor. pete

awesome link cubes i think i am final settled on what i going to run now that the run period is done pete

Yeah did that but i just don't like it that cold. All the production race guys i talked to believe the motor run best under full load (mean track work around 80-85deg) and i believe most oils and ecu as set this way for a reason. I think the low temp thermostat might work well will std cooling system but i found with the bigger radiator is just to cool for my liking. pete ps sorry for off topic comments