pnblight

simple dont do it, it's not worth it, trust me a little time delay now you'll save yourself alot down the road. Get the O2 sensors in properly or you'll pay for it 10 fold down the road. my 2c ps i run 500rwhp+ and still maintain 500km per tank normal driving as do many of the well tune gtr's in WA the close loop system helps trust me.

if you really want to drive hard then check out one of these guys events awesome fun and i believe there will be a good showing of skylines at the next event 1st of march. http://www.nolimitevents.com/news.php pete

APEXI POWER FC = FTW For street driver car i think, as many do around the world you cant go pass the PFC valve for money and ease of install and tune. If you were talking race car or drag car i would most likely go for something a little different especially if i was going hardcore (not that you have to but more for monitoring and datalogging). The ONLY thing again the Wolf is that not as many tuners like to use it so you can be a little limited in your choice for a tuner. I run two Nissan turbo charged street car on PFC and could not be happier and i absolutely love the hand control for monitor engine condition and fault finding sensors etc (can make your life so easy solving/finding a problem) pete

No great idea to try something a little different and even better that you were willing to share your results with SAU, as this is what i consider the real purpose of this forum. GREAT WORK justinfox pete

i guess the problem here would be if there was a gain it would be small a few % (maybe) and it's been proven that a driver/rider can not pick power changes of under 5 %(or less) difference up or down. The only way to really know would be dyno and thats expensive and if you can't feel the difference its not much and most likely not worth the effort and money to find out. pete ps nice idea tho, I wonder if the full after market piping kits make much difference over std.

It's a nice idea but the only problem with this is the turbos are one of the biggest facts in how the motor will flow. The other main factor is cams and especially cam timing. If you have a look at sum of my old thread you will see i once gain over a 150rwhp tuning with 1 psi of extra boost a little fuel and ignition BUT the rest ~120rwhp of the total was gain by tuning cams (exhaust especially) I do say tho that every engine is different and some gtr only gain small amounts but i have yet to see a gtr not make more hp once cam tuning was done properly. i recommend the -5 as i have seen to many great results on them, but the -7 are a fine turbo i just dont believe there as well matched to a modded rb26(cams etc). I also had the -5 on from first mod due to turbo failure, meaning i ran -5 on a totaly stock rb26 (std everything bar exhaust, std air box,afms,injector ,ecu the lot) in this from it ran 316awhp(~360rwhp) 18psi and ran 12.0 1/4mile (1.75 60 footer). So i don't believe these turbos are to big for any level of gtr motor mods. Pete

OK for one of my sheets chech http://www.hyperdrivems.com.au/images/dyno/peterblight.jgp I know the boost moves around a bit but theres a bit of story behind that as i was tuning at 18psi and the shop didn't have time to let me complete all what i wanted to do so we quickly adjusted the boost control to 20psi and ran it (the duty cycle was a little off) another run would have seen a flat boost curve as normal. as for X boost at X rpm I GOT to say it one of my biggest pet hates (but i will tell you why) As it is basically is of no real indication because boost is a measure of back pressure and a motor that builds back pressure quickly isn't necessary a responsive motor. What i work on is hp (your more importanely torque) at what rpm because that is what gets the car moving and pins you back in the seat, for example 1/ car 1 make full boost at 3500rpm and 150rwhp at this point 2/ car 2 makes full boost at 4000rpm but at 3500rpm is making 185rwhp comparing boost to rpm you would say car 1 is more responsive but in the real world car 2 is making more hp at same rpm for less boost and will accerate quicker. I hope that explains why. I still believe from all my comparsions the -5 are more responsive that any of it's competitors because of the hp it will make at low to medium rpm and has the benefit of a good healthly top end. off my last dyno sheet (not the one attached but very similar) ~135rwhp @ 3500rpm ~180rwhp @ 4000rpm ~250rwhp @ 4500rpm ~360rwhp @ 5000rpm ~440rwhp @ 5500rpm <<<<<<<<<<<<<< ~530rwhp @ 7500rpm Please i am not trying to get into a pissing contest either i know there are many high performing GTR out there and in no way am i try to say my is the best but simple trying to show the performance of the gt2860r 707160-5 on a mildy tuned rb26 GTR-Dad if you have any question feel free to pm me cheers pete

no worries i wish you the best of luck honestly as i well built gtr is awesome car to behold. it just pisses me off people post shit (with no facts behind it) pete

interesting idea but is a bit crude and easy mod to do has anyone seen a before after dyno? the greddy piping kit i guess would be a nicer way to deal with this problem but cost more tho. pete

from what i have been told (so i cant garrente it) they are one and the same (same pump) pete

Well is this thread for really as i scanned throught and could not believe the MISS IMFORMATION getting through around I feel sorry for you gun32gtr how can i guy make informed decision with such B___sh_t Rwhp and Awhp are not the same and at even close (it take power to turn axis and wheels unless the laws of physics have changed recently) I dare anyone to back up the claims the avcr with not run a gtr boost requirements (Apexi drag car runs 110rwhpPlus on one) and for people to say the gt2860r 707160-5 are laggy is utter crap i have gained better responce out of the -5 then i have seen out of hks2510 and i am yet to see anyone make better responce from gt-ss (sorry Biltz but i seen no evidence the gt-ss is more responive) I run a R33 GTR rb26dett with Garret gt2860r 707160-5 Apexi PFC and handcontrol Apexi AVCR tomei 260deg 9.15mm lift tomei cam wheels 700cc sard injector z32afms this combo makes 460rwhp+(345rwkw ~320awkw you loss about 40 to50rwhp to awhp but it varies) at actuator boost 14psi and 529.4rwhp at 20psi (so t04gtr you dont 1.5bar to make 320awkw with twins) i have run this hp for a number of year now and it is post on the hyperdrive web site if you doubt me. So all i can say is check what you say has facts behind it as people are trying to make real decision on here and deserve true info not personal opinions byass. pete ps i have not attach any other combo but defended the gear i know.

well not on a ported head i know that much for sure "gav" has been down this road and by just bring his inlet cam into line with the exhaust made good alround gains from memory. pete

the poncams 260deg 9.15mm are a great upgrade and very hard to beat valve for money (bolt in) i wouldn't go long on the exhaust than inlet as a friend of mine recently found out (better all round results are gain with matched) Tomie recomend nothing over 260 deg for street use (check there web site for turbo and cam combos) http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...harger_rset.htm All this said from my observations street/track 260/260 drag/street 270/270 so if you want more drag and out right hp over responce the 270/270 might serve you better. Also with that same goal you might find it worth it to go to a stage 2 10.25mm+ cams (don't forget it will cost alot more with aftermarket springs and having to reshim the head) i am yet to be convinced that going to stage 2 level on 260deg is worth the money and hassel for possible results(but who knows i have been playing with the idea of upgrade them soon) pete

midnightrider can i ask what your new cam lobe clearances were set to with the shims as you had new valves etc yes? just ask your head builder and check what is running now. pete ps just an idea

racespec i believe also sell CP pistons tho i normal get mine through Mark as mentioned above. Top guy

wrxhoon i think your missing my whole point which was take to someone who KNOWS rb26 heads and i was basically make quick referrence to some of the gear which is different about the rb26 heads to the normal heads service centers deal with. I was not trying to give exact clearance spec's of the top of my head, as there have been way to many beers sunk since i last spec'd my valve clearances (to guides). All i remember is they are uniquely large clearances on the exhaust side and it catches many people out. Where it's 2-3 thou or 4 thou isn't what this guy is interested in i believe but more the issues he need to deal with to built a strong health rb26. pete

yeah no worries if you have any further question only a pm away and i like many other guys on here have built a few rb26 of different levels expirence is a handy thing. pete

your right But i'm talking about stem clearances of the valve guides not cam lobs clearances pete

Ok what you want is basically a stage one build and there a few things you really need to make sure you do now as if you miss them it's a hugh cost to come back to them. I will surgest a std performance build which i think most please won't disagree with but may wish to add to but it comes down to budget and where you draw the line. Piston - Cp forged good price great quality (and forged pistons dont burn oil) Rods - STD will be fine BUT YOU MUST get ARP rod bolt $99 (cheap insurance) atleast or if you have the budget there are good deals going around for forged rods. Bearing - just get good bearing nissan stuff is fine and you can get spec'd shell in nissan (6 sizes) Oil Pump - yeah N1 and Collar is sweet Block - you need a oil gallery restrictor easiest way when you buy metal head gasket buy tomei head kit they come with one and other great gasket for the head (intake and exhaust) Head - get the head checked out by people who know rb26 head they are different to the norm with large exhaust valve clearance and sodium filled valves (i think "proengines" on here is a good guy to talk to) a little port and polishing doesn't go astray, easy to do it now while motor is out(exhaust side mainly. water pump - new item doesn't have to be N1 as there built to consistent high rpm. And i most stress if you go to all this effort and you still have std turbo your putting the whole engine at risk no matter what model GTR it is (but especially r32) The best thing you can do to protect your nice new motor it replace the std turbo as there are time bombs if your going to lean on them. For like $2400 you can have two brand new garret GT2860R 707160-5 320hp turbos bolt on and will run well on a std motor up to a mild to heavy modded motor will plenty of responce and head room and will not blow a hugh whole in the budget. If you blow your std turbo to could destroy your freshly build engine and most of that money all down the drain. I mates going through this very issue now pete

oh ok well let me know what you want for it as need one for my second project (drift car) Glad you found the problem and i thought in my first post it was cam timing as it has a hugh influence on the motor characteristics. pete

So to you have 2 main problems at the end of the day 1/cam timing 2/boost controller is this correct? The dyno figures make sence as one is 4wd and one 2wd and you will always have more losses on the 4wd dyno (if you run it in 4wd that is) Can i ask what the cam setting were and where you moved them to as i have been pushing guys to tune cam on the dyno for a number of year as you can really unlock some real power doing so and i think you have done the right thing in tuning for mid range as it make it a nice car to drive and alot of fun Great work enjoy pete

well i believe so but it's hard to know for sure as it was very strange occurates and i couldn't fault the car afterwards and the instructors like the straight speed the R had even on minium boost hopely have it ready to trash next night event. brett is it possible to get the membership card sent out or the future track days sent to me as i miss catching up with the lady for my membership card on the night with the dates on it. pete

Yeah the front straight braking was the only one i think i had down pat (good shadow line as marker) and yeah feel free to come say hi. The Porsche turned up the whick at the end (very quick car) I need to put some time into suspension as running very straight setup and i felt there was a number of place it could good alot quicker. The instructors very pretty happy with my line so i'm getting there slowly and they all seem to like the straight line speed the R had even on minium boost (14psi). Everyone down there were very friendly.

No Limits All Street Car Events 7/12/06 I thought i would just let you guys know of the good night had by all at the No Limits All Street Car Events 7/12/06 and the great job the boys are doing down there. If you haven't had a run at one of these events your missing out, one the chance to push your ride to the limit in a safe and legal evironment, two a chance to see some very nice rides of all shapes and sizes (996 turbo, M3 ,GTR's ,WRX's & Evo's etc), third and not least the chance to learn the right lines and technics to go fast and believe you me it makes a hugh difference. Well this was my second run on the Barbagallo circuit so my knowledge of the track is limited, but after a few runs around the long ciruit in the afternoon light thanks to day light saving, we turned on the lights and got down to business on the short circuit. I when there with a plan i want to run under a minute as i was told a good street car and good time is just under a minute(under minute = fast car) and after a few points of the boys i managed to achieve my goal and ran a best for the night of a 58.12sec lap http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....12/2006.BARB.P2 the pic is of my ride looking very track pigish with different rimes front and back bit of long story but basicall i bought a set of rimes for track use (front ones pictured) but when i went to fit tyres to them one was split (not happy )and had to borrow a pair for the back for the event thanks Rory

Hi Brett, Had a great night after the early scare. Loved the new semi slicks on a dry race track this time an even managed a 58.12sc on the short circuit, not to bad for my second trip BUT got plenty of improvement left (turn 8 ). All i can say i will denefitly be going to alot more of these and strongly recommend it to anyone how enjoys driving there car with a bit of zest. pete ps hope to see you at the next one