BoostdR

I have an android quad core deck with 1024*600 resolution. Brand is Joying, they are on eBay. Runs Android Kitkat 4.4. Works very well. Only negative is I don't like the Am/FM radio sound but I just run internet radio anyway. I have factory Bose so had to run a PAC ROEM-NIS2 adaptor to get rid of the hiss. Sound is exceptional.

My Consult 3 from aliexpress works well....well it works well after I changed the usb cable from a chinese to HP one. The Chinese USB cable had it disconnecting every 5 min. Enables minor timing adjustment amongst other useful programming and logging functions

Toyota Camry Hybrid H AVV50R in wildfire red. 81,000km Insane fuel economy 3.2-5.2l/100km NiMh batteries are good for 600,000km When your not in a fuel economy type of mood, both the electric and petrol motor combine to give quite impressive performance which put it actually faster than the non hybrid Camry. Awesome daily. Happy to send interstate. Registered till Sep 2016 Very very good condition Touch screen, reverse camera, start button, proximity entry, cruise control, iPod etc etc Won't last long at this price. Easily the cheapest in Australia. Brilliant car $15499 Any test welcome Located in Adelaide. Matt 0413023669

Interesting reading of the consult 3 manual. Clear Calibration data of the TCM (EEPROM Clear) 1. Shift selector to R(engine stopped ign ON) 2. Depress and hold brake pedal. Erase DTC while depressing accelerator pedal angle to 25-50% 3. Ignition switch to OFF (Hold for 10sec) 4. Ign sw to ON (10sec) 5. Ign sw to OFF(10Sec) 6. Ign sw to ON(10SEC) 7. Start

I don't have the reprogram kit fitted yet. It currently changes pretty quickly as the voltage clamp at the shift point isn't clamped at all. letting it shift at a clamp point will certainly result in a longer shift as you have pointed out.

Yes, I have the clamp at 4.85 at 5500 and 4.92 at 6000. Seems to do the job

Sounds like another learning curve coming for me too then

Haha. Yes.

Check the cooler piping

5.11v but I have an emanage ultimate clamping it to 4.92v

Fuel pump runs lower voltage at idle to reduce noise and heat. Symptoms sound like the Air Flow Meter could be stuffed. Unplug it and restart your car a couple of time so the ecu knows its unplugged and will enter limp home mode(won't allow revs much over 2,000rpm which is normal). If it then idles smoother the AFM sensor may need replacing. I replaced mine with a genuine Nissan item after my Chinese sensor lasted 4 days but others say the Chinese copies are more reliable. Maybe talk to scotty about which one he has had good reliability with. I'm sure he will chime in soon. *a loose intercooler pipe or charge system leak will also give the similar symptoms as a blown AFM. So check them before buying a new sensor if limp home mode works. Matt

I have a consult 3 on the way....will see if it gives any more clues

I've made up my own 3.5" exhaust but it's a tad droney.. Have just purchased a large capacity oval SRS muffler to replace the crappy X force cannon which should make it more neighbour friendly. I'm after the power duct cover that seals the vent up rather then guide the air in.

My Nissan replacement/updated part number sensor is seeing max voltage quite a bit. Will see if it lasts longer than the Chinese one did. Will report back when or if it blows ;-)

Thanks, still looking. Also after an air box power duct cover and battery cover

Another interesting tid bit. If you block off your factory BOV you will induce idle and response issues , low throttle fuel Economy increases/reduction in power. Why? The BOV is designed to be open at idle and part throttle which enables the air to bypass the inter cooler traveling from the AFM to the engine via the shortest path. This means that there is a reduction in delay between when you activate the accelerator and when the ecu can inject more air to act on it. Acceleration enrichment can be adjusted to compensate if you have the capability however there is no substitute for a short inlet track. Nissan designed it this way to give the best of both worlds. Air will naturally take the path of least resistance meaning there will be less vac in your intercooler and piping also giving better transitional response. People have theorized blocking the BOV will increase response but in actual practice this is not the case. The other advantage for our gearboxes is that part throttle will net more control meaning power will be closer to what the TCU is expecting. In racing terms having a accelerator pedal that is linear will away be faster around a track. A blocked BOV will remove most of this linearity give only a small difference from 50% throttle onwards.

There is a always a logical explanation. It just has to be proven. I might dissect my blown sensor. I'm sure there is as many blown Chinese as Nissan sensors. I would also expect some 'nissan' sensors are reproduced Chinese, box and all What I can confirm is the Nissan sensor I bought for $160 was very very different weight and hot wire design to the Chinese version that I had. Mapping afm voltage and response also was different. Different curve and smoother response. If you have an aftermarket ecu you can mask a different curve. The big problem we have on the forum is talking apples and apples. There is a chance the sensor I have now is the same that Scotty had previously. This is the part that was different in the sensor that failed. It had a component in the air stream rather than a flat metal film like this one This is the one that failed after 3hours use. The IAT thermistor was also double the size of the current Nissan one which would elude to later technology of the Nissan replacement

I was eluding to the O'ring colour denoting the sensor style/batch/brand to help identify/source the higher quality. Not sure what point your making if your buying the same sensor from China that Nissan use...cheaper sure but doesn't prove or increase reliability. From what I've found on my last two M35s is failure usually increases with pod filters and power ducts. May be more pertinent to relate the failures to vibration, FOD and moisture

Ok well all differing experiences. My Chinese on lasted 4 days. It was designed totally different than the jap ones weigh half as much and give a different curve which caused idle issues and terrible fuel consumption. It's possible there are 'better' Chinese versions as some have a green seal and others a black. My failed chinese seal was green. The Nissan sensor seal is black similar to so other Chinese copies I've seen on aliexpress. Matt

After a M35 front bar in Silver located in Adelaide. Don't need fancy style. $50-150 Also after a Jap exhaust as my 3 muffler home built system drones Matt 0413023669 or pm

22680-6N21A is the one to get. Don't buy a copy one, They are actually designed differently, weigh half as much, don't last and will have your car running B grade. Speaking from experience..

Aha, now I understand why I can't get engine fault codes anymore

I saw that one. I used the axel sensor 1 pin 73 as TPS so wondered if it was correct

Could someone confirm the crank POS And cam position sensor 1 are arse about in this diagram? I've belled out the crank sensor which goes to pin 65 not pin 95RE greddy ultimate wiring Matt

Sounds like a plan Scotty, I'll have a look through the functions menu on the G-Scan and see if I can activate it via CAN command. From schematics it looks like the signal to activate 'Power' mode is transferred to the TCM by the CAN line which will make things harder to synthetically simulate(not impossible). If I can activate it I can easily log shift durations/manual change down rpm points/change points vs throttle position to prove how much the power map changes things to work out if further research is justified. Matt