BoostdR

If you goto sensor list under screens you can see all sensors data if you click on them. I'm trying to get them transferred to the main screen. I was able to read and clear a fault code today. On another note I worked out how to bypass my rpm limit, revved to 8400rpm and fried my alternator bearing(glowing orange) interesting part is the engine still increases in power over the OEM limit.

Now that I have a working MAF I was able to plot the MAF VS MAP/emu output to adjust my emulation airflow meter output table and continue to run solely off the greddy MAP sensor. I found that the MAF sensor either has some rate of change logic built in for acceleration enrichment or the BOV return causes an initial spike as seen in the logs when the throttle is stabbed. Either way I found adding substantial acceleration enrichment took out all dead spots. The intake and water temp has to be wired totally separate to the oem sensors as the EMU loads the signal which skews the OEM values by approx 20degrees . Once I've installed some I'll upload some temperature fueling adjustment parameters. Matt

So anyway. I have a theory on all these blown MAF's. When the plug is wiggled it goes 0-5v pretty quickly which Im sure stresses the sensor somewhat. My AFM is mounted with the plug up which looks to be rubbing on the bonnet. From what Google tells me the plug should face to the passenger side not up or towards the engine. Away from heat and away from vibration and no bonnet contact....

Chinese MAF, arrived. Interesting results when wiggling the plug...

My replacement consult 3 arrived. It's just as unstable as my original. Seems to be the norm. I asked hobdrive to customize the general screen to our sensors. Will see how it goes. Been nice and stable for me so far.

I would say you may need a consult 3 to copy the current TCU and download to the new box...That would be if your box has the TCU inside it. The NM35's don't but later boxes do

I have the full version up and running, haven't noticed any major difference from the demo version, but it's early days. I did learn the mini Bluetooth Chinese ELM327's in a version 2.1 don't work as they are a clone chip. The v1.4 and 1.5 are better apparently. Also most android based double din stereos have a non standard cut down Bluetooth stack so most Bluetooth ELM327's don't work anyway. Anyway the main screen really needs to have the sensors customized to be of value to us. This can be done, but at simple coding level. I'll look at it when I'm at work next. I haven't had a chance to clear any CEL's as I don't have any atm. There is some level of graphing/logging for fuel trims and lambda but nothing like torque or Nissan Data Scan offer with selected sensor X-Y axis logging. There is a fast scan option which looks to double the update rate. I'll have a read through the manual prob on Sat as I have a couple of cars to dyno tomorrow. Matt

Coupon code to be used via their web page only.

HobDrive have kindly given me a 50% off coupon code for the app which I am allowed to give to SAU members. I just can't publicly post it. PM me if you would like the code. Matt

I was hoping you might take up the challenge Scotty. I'm not very advanced on the Fabrication side of things.

No worries Valf. I tried torque today with the new adaptor but had no luck getting it to connect to the adaptor or ecu, I'm sure it's possible for the adaptor anyway. May need to remove all my previous setting and start again.

I wasn't able to clear the cel for the brake mod even with consult 3 unless the cct was corrected.

I've asked hobdrive to convert the full sensor list to English as some aren't. I should have a discounted full version for testing tomorrow.

I have another Chinese consult 3 on the way which they promise will be stable. Be interesting to find out if the replacement is. Although I think Scotty has a stable consult 3 with a different version of software.

It's kinda awesome, the more I look the more data I find. Even has stuff I didn't see on my consult 3. Updated with more pics in previous post. Update rate is fine. Best thing is it is stable. No crashes. Let's see if we can log. That would seal the deal. Update rate is reported as 201ms if I'm reading it correctly

Sorry for they delay, I work in International Surveillance for Defence which means lots of shift work. So, it works !! Vgate with wifi

Cheers, not bad for a 2ltr with medium cams. The slow speed track really shows the response. I do also run a 6 speed so that helps a lot also. I love these turbos. A 7163 mixed geometry EFR would be insane on an M35.

I noticed Borg Warner EFR's were mentioned earlier. This would be the ultimate option as I feel these are the best spooling turbo available on the market. Precision will make more power as they aren't limited by shaft speed but an EFR will smash it in average power/drive ability. I have one on my race car and spool is similar to stock. Transient response is excellent and below spool boost is available from idle. The design also allows for a large turbine which is great for reducing heat and back pressure. We recently installed one on an IPRASA car and it went another second faster over the previous Garrett unit with a restrictor. I'll post a vid of my WRX which runs a 6758 to show response. Mine does have anti lag but it was more for the crowd as it doesn't need it at all, it makes boost free revving. So install wise of this long turbo on a Stagea could be achieved as the mount angle can be up to 15 degrees(advertised) due to the double oil seals they run. Mine is around 20 degrees and has no problems. I've seen the cosworth WRX run one at over 30degrees. I guess what I'm trying to say is if a kit could be made, you would be in the money. Here are some pics of my install on the rex http://youtu.be/d16w0PjkEYk http://youtu.be/3xPYNoO6V6E

Haha yep, why do I feel like I'm trying to crack open a safe ;-)

I feel the TCU reprogram is the key(2nd to stronger internals). Changing the shift duration via a transgo reprogram kit helps much less than it should due to the TCU compensating for the changes(pulling them back towards stock).

My drivers window gets stuck at 3/4 also but makes a slipping teeth sound like the worm drive is shot. I check out my bushes and as Scotty mentioned they were also very worn. I bent them out so they contacted better and it fixed half the issue(new bushes would be better)...still need a new system I think.

I put a grub screw in the OEM BOV bypass, no sick dose sounds and no studder, but that could be because my Hypergear SS2 is currently hella laggy. Did pick up a noticeable improvement is response with an extra 2psi at the same boost setpoint.

What's even cooler Scotty is you can use the stock MAP sensor(up to its readable limit anyway). I just happened to have a 3 bar Greddy EMU sensor from my Starlet turbo build left over. Some interesting findings using the MAP. -Since I have a blend of E85 my MAF emulation voltages needed to be higher to get the right AFR's..as a result my shifts are now firmer. Another result looks to be that the gearbox now wants to be in 5th at anything over 50km/h... I'll take the firmer shifts thanks. When I adjust for my 1000cc injectors I think I'll over compensate so the AFM output voltage is skewed higher and then compensate with my pulse width correction. I noticed the EMU doesn't want to output more than 5v however the OEM MAF will reach 5.11v. I could put a .10v positive offset on the MAF output line using a 10kOhmn potentiometer then take away .10v from the EMU MAF output map which would keep my AFR's correct but enable 5.10v output up top. Wish I knew if the shift time reduced/got firmer going from 5 to 5.11v.... Theoretically once I worked out the potentiometer set point(value/ohm) a simple resistor could used.

Refer to this data at your own risk. HDI cooler Hypergear SS2 Full exhaust OEM fuel system( does run lean in 3rd gear or above) Boost approx 16psi I'm now Running off the greddy map sensor which emulates the MAF. I cleared the error code from my faulty MAF and the car seems happy after a few hours of logging and road tuning with my O2 wideband. MAP is plugged into spare port in plenum and to option 1 socket on the EMU which you will need to enable in the software. Maps also should be changed to reference the MAP. I used relative pressure so I was working with actual gauge boost pressure. I'm running partial E85 which will skew the figures but these settings have the car running quite ok. Well enough that I'll never to back to MAF. The response is great being MAP rather than MAF, no lag from accelerator pedal action to rpm change. I still need to setup acceleration enrichment and Intake temp compensation. The oem MAF is still sending the intake temp but the air density change is now not being compensated for. I would expect it to be off around 1.5-2% every 10degress still. So I'll update when I've set it all up. I'll chuck it on the dyno an do it properly. Matt This timing I found to work best with my Hypergear SS2. Gave a smidgen more useable boost from 2500-3000rpm. So it can keep up with normal traffic now when under 3000rpm

Trying to guesstimate the MAF output vs MAP input from the logs. Should give a starting point. I can't see why we can't use a 350z MAF with a conversion chart, would be as simple as using the 2nd MAF input and logging the voltage difference between them at all loads. Using this data to populate the Airflow output map.