BoostdR

You can check your fuel trims with hobDrive. If you want the app I have a discount code.

What are the short and long term fuel trims doing?

Always liked the yellow with black wheels combo.

Double post

That's very mature response and appreciated more than you know. Thankyou.

The m35 Stagea non ARX model weight is 1680kg, 35R GTR 1740kg. Drivers weight is added. As tested on a weigh bridge.

Hi All, First of all if I banned anyone from the Tuner group it was because of verbal abuse. There were probably some collateral bannings due to the Admins getting short with people who also jumped on the abuse bandwagon. I apologize if these felt unjustified. You are welcome to send me a PM if you feel you should be reactivated and will adhere to the groups rules. There was also some confusion that I caused myself by making a statement that wasn't clear. This being that it looked like I was Claiming 0-100 times from a dyno session. I totally agree this would not be valid data. I should have stated that this was indeed completed on the tarmac in full street trim, I just incorrectly assumed that would be an obvious requirement. The actual accuracy of the time also came into question due to speedo read errors. The pulse and correction signal that the logged data came from was calibrated against a GPS so should be pretty close. My speedo also reads quite accurately due to my 20" wheels. Having said that I totally agree that there is definitely some error in the actual time...and it certainly would be less likely to be faster than 3.3. I'm very confident the time is between 3.3 and 3.6. The video posted here above is actually my car with the previous version of SS2 turbo. The current turbo is much larger and also more responsive. It is larger than a 3076. (76mm/74mm). Dyno was completed at all four wheels, so a higher figure from the rear wheels could have been logged which may have helped peoples belief. I chose not to run on the dyno to give an output that is different to the actual configuration of the car due to timing requirement differences between 2wd and 4wd(additional load) The frustrating factors for me were: -there was a dyno provided -there was a tarmac 0-100 logged run provided, I also have another run @3.4 sec logged(+video) -and there was a video of that actual logged run posted for verification last night(this was left up for a short period(30views) due to the nature of the video and then removed) This has been a very stressful experience for me and one I dont wish on anyone. I pride myself on being honest. The car will be run down the 1/4 mile eventually and certainly provides better data, to be honest I feel disheartened at even posting that info as I feel it will be accused of being photo shopped or something =-( Matt

EMU Earth isn't to pin 106 it should be pin 47

Ok. Just fixed a car with the same injectors as yours and same problem. Had to zero out the injector cc correction and lag times. Then put the correction into inj map 2 (-37% across the whole map). Car starts instantly now. Was so bad before it stuffed the starter motor. Seems the emanage has issues during cranking with its calculations using the injector correction settings. These denso injectors seem to make it worse. I think they are Chinese copies of 35R injectors.

Problems Turbo Failure: If the oil lines get blocked, yes your turbo will fail. Clean or replace your lines and your good to go. Drilling your banjo's to 3mm will just cause excessive flow and encourage oil to leak out the turbine oil ring causing smoke. The main failure is the ceramic turbine breaking off the turbine shaft. Oil flow is not related to this. The cause is directly related to turbine speed. If you want the OEM turbo charger to last, don't put a dump pipe or exhaust on it, Don't increase boost otherwise it will fail eventually. Rear Shocks: Upper Mounts will rip out of the car when performance shocks are installed or even with OEM. The top hats rust out due to the stupid design Rust: They like to rust in the lower kick panel, window frames, gearbox mount point. Air Flow Meters: The OEM Airflow meters blow continuously. Best by a AFM off ScottyM35 as these are the only ones Ive seen last.. better than getting stuck..buy one straight up Interior: The interior is just ugly, it squeaks and creaks Engine: The engine is capable of serious power and great response. Be warned the head studs are cheese and will leak/lift with almost any detonation. The OEM injectors run out of flow easily so be wary of an M35 Series 1 with an exhaust but no other supporting fueling mods, it will most likely already have a broken piston. Every M35 series one I have compression tested have had at least one piston broken(greater than 10% compression variance). Rocker cover Gaskets go hard and leak. Electronic throttle isn't the most reliable. The coil packs don't like Adelaide 48 degree heat. Transmission: This will start slipping on mid throttle changes on the OEM setup when boost is increased and destroy itself. Can only be patched with a shift kit Brakes: The brakes are hugely undersized and will wrap and crack with any spirited driving. Electric Windows: The drivers window motor will eventually strip the inner cog. OEM window motors are expensive. Rear Sub Frame: They can crack at the top of the inverted U. You can't tow Electrical: The Battery Control Modules are almost all been water damaged at some stage due to blocked drain holes. The rams in the front seats are prone to setting off intermittent Air bag faults. Centre pop up screen is useless, even when converted to English Stereo: The original Bose system sounds good, changing it requires a bandwidth adaptor(PAC-OEM2). People charge insane amounts for a Double din fascia. Summary: Buy the series 2, 2wd version with the 3.5ltr if you don't plan on modding the series 1 turbo. If you are looking at going down the turbo path, don't modify it unless you are (a) very patient and capable of your own work or (b) are willing to spend big money with a workshop who actually knows these cars. Buy the car will all the options that you want already...ie AXIS, leather, sunroofs, radar cruise etc. Don't by a turbo version without completing a compression test. Matt

Hot start has a low pulse width.Had the same issue, setting the correct lag times for the injectors helped. But putting a new battery in solved it completely. It was getting down to 7.8v on cranking with my old battery and my 950cc injectors wouldn't even open..the emanage doesnt have a voltage vs lag time correction so you have to adjust the overall lag time adjustment to compensate...doing that can make idle rich...so getting the voltage as high as possible means you dont have to dial in as much addtional lag time. Mine runs well with .66 OEM and 1.12 Bosch (lag time 1.12 - 0.66 = 0.46). I had to run the bosch at 1.6 with the old battery...which caused rich idle on 98 Matt

Turbine size and trim makes a noticable difference to exhaust volume

That's in 4th gear. Response in the lower gears is not as good. Still feels slightly small for the engine capacity.

7670 twin scroll rb30/25 29.5 psi @ 3050rpm 6boost. External gate

Double post

Yes you can get a Garrett core replacement. Original replacement with the ceramic turbine has steel ball bearings and the newer Garrett cores are Ceramic Ball bearing with inconel turbines. As long as the rebuilt unit is ball bearing or CBB you will claw back some of the benefits of the ceramic turbine.

I'm not aware of a direct fit steel wheel replacement. Of note. If you fitted a direct fit steel turbine you would go backwards in terms of torque(low end response) there are small high flows available now which respond very similar to stock.

Thought about water/meth injection? Is they Hypertune single throttle or multi? Single will hurt response a smidge.

Boost and flow doesn't have a fixed relationship. That's why I'm maxing out at 25psi on a 3 litre. A 4cly 2ltr would prob take 30psi before maxing out. Keeping under the speed limit stops the turbine falling off.

Haha. Yep, certainly nothing rb20 left Makes 364rwkw E85 21psi

Also have an RB25 Stagea awd manual. With a 6758 .6 IW. Daily driver. Response is better than factory.

Have tuned an Rb30/25 with 7670 twinscroll EG. Made approx 29.5psi @ 3050rpm. Found shaft speed was approaching its limit at 25psi up top. Matt

-drivers Door electric window motor -non hicas drivers side rear lower control arm (goes under spring) pm me a price. will pay postage to Adelaide Matt

19.8psi at 3622rpm today under heavy load in 3rd. Response is better again in 4th. Not that you would want to load up 32psi in 4th before 4500rpm that would be a challenge for the rods.