rondofj

yes its open, I can confirm that from the diagram on my relay - 87a is connected to the other side of pin 30 (battery current draw) and 87 is not connected to anything. cheers Ron

thanks man, u saved me from miswiring! Now I know I will have to use pin 87 (normally open) so the pump dosent prime when the car is off!

true, 87a is closed and 87 is open as I stated above, does it still mean I can use either?

The horn relay I got has 5 pins - 30, 85, 86, 87and 87a - there was also a 4 pin one but it had its own fuse in the fuse holder - I already have the wire from battery to boot with fuse holder (50A fuse inside) - I need to get a large 30A fuse which I couldnt find. Is this horn relay and the relay base (connector) sufficient?? The thickest connector wire is only rated at 15A and 105 degrees, 600V and 14AWG whatever that is.. And the ground eye connectors are the small blue ones, also got similar size wire bullet terminals too. Please advise if these items r ok - and which pin shud I use for pump +ve 87, not 87A?? 87A is closed and 87 is open. CLICK TO ENLARGE Horn Relay Base This is a plug in base with cable attached.- Suits SY-4068 and SY-40

thanx guys will get the gear today and let u know how it goes - I get it that regardless whichever of the two ecu wires is the trigger (+ve or -ve) THAT wire is goin to pin 85, and the other wire along with pin 86 on the relay and the pump -ve will be commonly ground to the chasis through one point?

Some posts have said that the -ve from ecu into pump needs to be grounded to chasis, pin 85 on relay needs to be grounded to chasis and of course the fuel pump -ve needs to be grounded as well - I wanna get all these 3 points to a common ground point on chasis? And then other posts say to connect the -ve from ecu to pin 85, is this the same thing, there are diagrams of these 2 connected together and then grounded to 1 point?? Man I sound dumb I know!

Lol Jez, I cant thank u enough, u've been a HUGE help .. will let u know how it goes mate

Ur right, I have the Kicker amp wiring already with a monster fuse just after the battery (its in a case, havent checked how many Amps). That wire goes to the boot so I can just connect it to pin 30 on my relay which I will mount in the boot. Plus the ground wire from my ex-amplifier is there in boot too - I can connect this to my pump ground. Then I am left with the 3 wires from the relay - pins 85, 86 and 87 which needs to go to the pump +ve (pin 87) and the ecu wiring (85 & 86). But what do u mean by "Ur way requires finding the correct ecu wiring then run it to ur fuse' - do I need another fuse or what and to which wire? The wires going into the pump lid from ecu are pretty skinny, in fact - theres 5 of them - I know 3 of them is for the fuel sender, and 2 supposedly slightly thicker ones are for the pump - these r the ones I need right? They are supposed to be blue and white (from an R33 wiring thread) - but I have yellow/black, black, green, white and another I cant remember.. So would be gud if someone knows the R34 color codes.. But still havent understood how to find out if my car is +ve or -ve trigger from the ecu..

Hey guys, is the R34GTT fuel pump +ve trigger or -ve trigger from the ecu??

I dont see the point of getting him here from Newcastle to rewire 2 pumps - you and me - I will be doing a dyno tune only afterwards - and that depends if the wiring is sorted first. If Jez was Sydney based, then diff story of course, I would book him in.. This wiring thing is now finally making sense, one thing i dont understand is how to find out if my car is +ve or -ve trigger from the ecu - cut the wires and hold a test lamp to the terminals and ground? And from the 2 wires the one that lights up the lamp is the trigger?

I read somewhere that I can just cut the wires going onto the top of the white fuel pump lid/cap and connect the battery and relay wires to these so I dont have to take out my pump and bracket.. Theres 2 plugs and 3 hoses on the lid so just gotta figure out if its the bigger plug or the smaller one.

I'm goin to mount my relay in the bonnet beside the battery and ground it (pin 86) to the chasis or battery -ve. Battery +ve goes to relay pin 30. Relay Pin 87 goes to pump +ve. And the switch wire, relay pin 85 goes to ECU +ve. Finally the pump -ve and the ecu -ve are grounded to chasis - can they be grounded to the same point on the chasis?? There's 3 grounding points isn't there - pump -ve, ecu -ve, and relay pin 86. Please tell me if I missed anything. I think I will get the relay from jaycar I posted above as it has a 30A fuse, but its got 15A contacts, if this is a problem? Supercheap dosent have any relays with fuse, and the guy at Jaycar told me I dont need a fuse as there shud be one from the battery.. All this conflicting info spinning in my brain lol..

Jez, if u were in Sydney, I might ask u to do this for me..

Theres so many relays in www.jaycar.com.au - this is the only one with a fuse: can I use this? CAT. NO. SY4076 RRP$8.95 CLICK TO ENLARGE Automotive Fused Relay - SPST 15A Designed for automotive applications, these quality relays have an integrated blade fuse and metal mounting bracket. The contacts are rated for 15A, making them suitable for installations of aftermarket horns etc. * 12V 15A contacts * SPST * Fuse included QTY 1+$8.95 10+$7.95 25+$6.95 Enter Quantity << RETURN[ Top of Page ]

A 60A Horn relay with a 30Amp fuse is what I need right?

cheers bro - I will be headed to jaycar soon

Hey Jez, thanks very much man, you have been extremely helpful, now all those pins, where are they, are these the pins -30, 85, 86, 87 etc, on the plug going into the white fuel pump plastic cap that seals the tank?? Theres 2 plugs and 3 hoses there. So that means I dont have to open that plastic thingy and take out the fuel pump with bracket as it can be done from above, right? And how do I know which is the positive / negative trigger, and by 'switched ignition 12v source' - that is the battery, right?? Sorry for being such a noob, but in all my DIYs I find this the most confusing as theres no real pics I could find, just diagrams..

It has to do with the fuel pump dude, before changing to the walbro, this issue wasnt there at ALL, I reckon re-wiring is the go - will get my tuner to do that - how much shud I be paying for that?? I know its simple - relay, and then wire from batt positive etc, grounding, but nobody has any pictures anywhere - I need to know things like how the modified wiring goes into the tank, at what point it is cut and where in the chasis it is grounded etc, as u know the battery in the R34 is in the bonnet not boot. I already got amplifier wiring running from battery + to boot with its own fuse (amp is out), can I use that??? Just connect the relay etc.. Does the relay need to sit in bonnet beside battery? And I saw the a/f ratios after driving on 2nd to 7000rpms and it showed around 13.7 everywhere on the tuners laptop running nistune. Didnt get it tuned then, and yeah on idle it is around 15, normal driving on boost is high 12s to mostly mid 13s..

man all this is confusing as...dosent anybody have actual pictures of grounding which wire where etc..all those grounding the pump wiring to chasis and running wires to the pump positive, need pictures to see where and how the wires run - ie thru the rubber booth at the top of pump etc..

Wana book it in this weekend - so I found that my car is running really farked between 1000-1800ish rpms, like shuddering and jolting and misfiring, above that is awesome through to 7000rpms no dramas there at all, and feel like good power gain, idle is 90% okay but not as smooth as before.. Man its makin me nuts, feel like setting the whole damn thing alight! Some peeps say I need a re-wire, some say I need a tune, anyways I think I will ask the tuner to take out the damn pump and check the voltages in diff rpms, and if thats stuffed, then re-wire or run a earth to the chasis from the fuel pump control modulator (where is this and what does it look like?) I know there could be several things that can cause this problem - dirty AFM, coilpacks, sparkies, TPS etc, but definitely NOT this time, my car was fine and smooth as before I changed the pump, but running quite lean and not feeling as fast as now in the mid-high rpms..

Remember my car was initially running dangerously lean a/f of around 13.7 and up with the stocko item, so now this new fuel pump has hopefully brought that down to 12ish a/f ratios by supplying the required amount of fuel, hence 'making' the power that shud have been there. yes its in low revs then fine, my sock has got a bit of play, i was thinking that maybe the pump doset have enough pressure in low revs cos of this - then on higher revs, it has built up the pressure??

thanks, I'm only getting a tune cos I just got nistune installed a coupla weeks back and havent had a tune yet, so fuel pump problem or not, I am getting a tune regardless, and will see about re-wiring - saw a write up, but theres no pics, also someone suggested I should ground the fuel pump control modulator to the chasis or something - have no idea where or what that is he he

why not just keep the factory cold start settings then?

cheers, hope it turns out well

no rewiring done mate, mite have to do that later, but will see if the tune can yield anything goood... as i said it is only missing below 2k rpms, above that it is so MUCH better than before