rondofj

Guys, this is the one I'm looking at, is it a yaay or a naay?? he he Please waitImage not available

lol

thanks buddy, hoping its not a split hose, theres 3 going onto the lid, dunno how hard they would be to change as they disappear onto the sides of the hole where u access the lid and then the pump..

U mean u dont have the rubber seal insert? Man thats dangerous, u can have a lot of fuel leaking out / poor fuel economy and danger from cigarrette smoke / spark etc

I'm getting the fuel smell now, after changing my fuel pump last weekend. My tuner suggested it is the black round rubber fuel tank seal (not on the fuel filler cap), its the one inside the boot under the plastic cap that seals the tank. It is a b*tch to fit and the big plastic cap screw-on that comes after it is worse, have to tap with hammer.. Car is R34 and I think I got the seal in right - had to wedge the edges in with a flat screwdriver, but still theres a smell from boot area??? aaaaarghh - do i need a new seal or re-fit the existing????

what do u guys reckon about cats - catco, xforce, bokka etc?? I just need a 3" hiflow and 100 cell per cubic inch, does brand matter??

Hey guys, looking for a cheap but good quality high flow cat, what do u guys recommend and from where?? I'm in Sydney. How bout this bokka cat, sounds like a crappy name I know - hopefully its not a crap cat! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/High-Flow-3-Catalytic-Converter-Metal-BOKKA-S-Steel-/330513852033?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf4292681

where u located?

$135 ONLY OR CLOSE OFFER

how much for Z32 only?

Wont refuse a decent offer

bump - offers, I wont refuse an okay offer..

Thank u Jez, the tune went great, its running smooth as ever, as you mentioned, need a 3" hiflow cat, turbo-manifold gasket, (dump pipe maybe later) and a re-tune on the dyno for power figures, ign timing maps, more boost, knocking and tuning 4th and 5th gear tuning. And I gotta fix that fuel tank seal as well. So many things to do, need to get it out of my head asap. I recommend Jez AA++. If any of you thinking of getting a tune(Nistune, Power FC, Haltech) or any electrical / mechanical work, he is one top bloke, DVS Tuning located at Central Coast. Check him out, he was awesome to deal with, +1. Thanks again mate, you did a great job.

thanks man, going to try this now, did u forget to mention that I need to cut the green/white wire goin to pump and connect the pump end to pin 87 and the ecu end to pin 85? Will do that I think. Please text me ur address cheers

Didnt wana short anything or create a fire lol, so do u think the black/yellow wires are the ground wires - theres three of them goin to one. I tried to call you a few times today. If you comin down to Syd tomorrow to do Sir RBs rewire, I can come see you, if the roads are dry and you are free, then I would like to get it road tuned as well or otherwise Easter?? Oh and my no. is 0416424446, I think it is set to private cheers

took it for a drive - better than ever - too much wheelspin when goin on boost which is too dangerous and a big thumbs down - even goin straight downhill - kind of wet road (i know) it wheelspins in 2nd.. I think I have less than/around 220rwkw on my 12psi neo engine, a lot of u guys would class that as pretty underpowered, yet how come most of u in the 270 and up rwkw range are NOT complaining about wheelspin???? Maybe its to do with my HARD cusco rear coilovers??? - not enough grip??? Front is the same tho not so hard.. But first things first, someone please tell me the color code for the r34 fuel pump wiring and which ones the trigger?? my wirings still not proper for now - refer above posts.. thanks

anyone??

It would help big time if someone can post which color code is which wire on R34s. I have 3 yellow/blacks goin onto one yellow/black that goes to pump. And a green/white that goes to pump. Plus 2 other wires purple and black, goin onto fuel sender..

There is a heavy duty wire with 30A fuse from battery to pump. But as above, the wiring is just wrong, I know u have to cut both ecu-pump wires and hook them to relay and earth/chassis - in my case as I mentioned above only one of those wires is cut. The workshop guys obviously are not too clever, so I wouldnt let them fk it up some more, besides they closed now.. Its a simple wiring I know, just gotta know which wire is ground and which is original switch wire..

FOR SALE- R34GTT Stock Fuel Pump PRICE - $60 or close offer Upgraded to a Walbro so selling this, pump only, can be used as a secondary pump for those running twins etc, or as an upgrade pump to R32s or R33s. cheers Ron

I mean someone please help lol..

Have just wired in my fuel pump at an automotive shop and its done wrong because it keeps running when ignition is off and they only used one of the 2 wires (the yellow/ black one) goin onto pump and hooked both ends of that onto relay 87(goin to pump) and 85 (ecu ign signal). The other wire (green/white) goin to pump from ecu is untouched. Relay pin 86 is earthed by itself only. Pump has 2 wires - green/white and a yellow/black which comes from a splitter hooked to 3 yellow/black wires. Are these the ground wires or is the green/black ground?? Is the r34 +ve or -ve trigger?? Good news is that now the car is back running smooth as ever and all the missing/pops/power loss/hesitation in low rpms is GONE.. But I still have to take off relay everytime I park or else the pump keeps running! Someone please hepl..

Get Nistune bro, the best bang-for-buck ecu out there.

buy

havent fitted yet, goin in tomorrow nite or sat, so I dont get stuck with a car that cannot drive to work!