Redbaboon

Sorry - Most of us are too stingee to pay for the membership!

I had a mate with a similar problem - he just changes fuel filter and cleaned the injectors, and it went away...

Spot on RbHead

Engine number on my 33 is situated on the flat surface (on the passenger side) where the block meets the gearbox. I had to clean alot of crap off this with some steel wool to read the numbers though - hope its the same for a 32.

I don't have a S-AFC, but will only be running the AVC-R. Need the FCD, or just buy a S-AFC (what are your thoughts)?

Hi Lads, I am about to buy a current model AVC-R boost controller for my R33 GTS-T (from a SAU member, actually). I am running the factory ECU, and will upgrade my intercooler shortly. My question is: Do I need a Fuel Cut Defender? The previous owner didn't use one but had an Apexi SAF-C air/fuel controller. Thanks in advance,

Hey lads, I just bought a set off J for my '33 and installed them last night. I have to say, THEY ARE FORKING OARSOME! They are cut and fitted PERFECTLY, and it changes the look dramatically. I recommend if you are a little unsure, go for it. Believe me, they are quality. Cheers,

Am interested if the mats are decent quality - what material is it? Have you seen them in the flesh?

I've also heard of this problem - sometimes it is a leaky BOV. They wreckon even a 1 psi loss in boost pressure can amount to about a 30 hp loss at the wheels! Dunno if this is the answer, but it may be food for thought...

I'm keen also - check pm Would also like pics

Firebladejr, Go genuine with the brackets - you'll pay for them, but at least they'll be the right ones. As for the funky jap aerial adaptor, I went to our old mate Dicky Smith and bought a single prong connector. Costs all of about a dollar. You can cut the old two prong connector off, and simple wire the new one on by twisting both cores together and soldering (obviously the ground sheath is the same). I did this to mine, and there was no probs - surprised myself.

Oofoofoo, From memory the stock speakers measure around 5 1/4 inches in diameter. But the problem is that they are not round, but a crappy shape that seems to widen a little where the four holes are. I have read threads where lads wrocken that 6'' fit straight in, and I know from experience 6.5'' DEFINITELY DON'T. If you don't wanna make you own pods or even spacers, buy small - and don't be lazy, pull the bastard out and make sure that one you buy will fit in, b4 you spend the dollars.

I ended up making some spacers of of that firbo board stuff (18mm), not MDF but that layered stuff. Worked like a charm and the distance out from the door was PERFECT. Am as happy as a pig in shite, and being quality Fosgates, sounds good too

This may be a silly question but is sparked after reading some other threads- Is the guage electrical or mechanical?

Just ordered a couple - should be awesome!

Chech pm kik-ass. Might be keen, if you can send some pics.

Love the design P1E - I'll take two. Let us interstate lads know how to fix you up once everything is finalised. Looks awesome__

Put me down for two as well P1E... I am a very big fan of the design that B-Man posted, but I too shall leave it to you lads to decide.

Yep, Already have a 3'' turbo back 5Zigen exhaust. Have factory ECU turbo and intercooler, aftermarket BOV. Work has been done to the ECU (evident due to the rewiring, lack of terminations such as throttle position input), although this was done in Japan and I don't know what exactly has. What else do you recommend before going down the FMIC path?

Hi Lads, As an extreme novice in the field of forced induction performance, I sometimes ask some stupid questions. I am currently weighing up buying a FMIC for my 33. I will buy it, it's just a matter of when. My understanding is that the extra horses come into the equation when you fit a FMIC and turn up your boost. How do I physically turn up my boost? Is it purely controlled by the ECU opening the bleed valve, or can I adjust this by some other external means? As always, your help is appreciated.

Hey Spoolup, Does this include the piping (w silicon joins)? Sounds like a pretty cheap buy - do you know if this size fits straight onto a 400R front bar? Keen,

Hi Lads, You've gotta fibreglass! This is an absolute pain in the ass job, that gets messy and annoys tf out of you, but the results are awesome! I helped do a job on my mate's Eunos 30X, we built two custom moulds that fit exactly into the boot (we had to build them mostly in the boot) and housed two 10'' and two 6X9's. Turned out awesome, and actually not too bad for tuning. The beauty about Skylines is that they have larger boots to play with. To do this, firstly build a timber frame, then a fibreglass moulding for this frame, and finish off with bog to shape and smooth - very nice. It took the two of us two weeks working every night and two whole weekends, but they are sweeeet!

Thanks MattyB, Will probably have a crack at making up my own MDF brackets... let you know if I need any advice

Thanks Lads. I wondered about cutting the edges of the original holder, but thought I might stuff it up. This might be worth a go, before I go making new MDF brackets. Oh, and I don't have and worries about Holden parts in my Skyline... couldn't find a better pair! Thanks for your help, boys (and girls)...

Hi Lads, My front door speakers on my R33 are cactus, so I decided new ones are in order. I was fortunate enough to pick up a set of new Fosgate 6.5'' front splits real cheap ($80, rrp $250!!!). The problem is that the bastards don't fit properly. I have pulled the driver's door apart and removed the corroded old factory Clarion, only to find that the speaker has a funky shape that fits into a funky-shaped moulded bracket (i.e. they are not round). I probably could make up another set of brackets (probably out of MDF or something) to mount these in, as well as enlarging the holes in the trim to fit this - what do you '33 lads wreckon? Is there an easier option? Your comments are appreciated.