Redbaboon

4 SALE Series 1 R33 GTS-t for sale. Excellent condition, imported in March 03 for me. It has many goodies, including: 400R kit R34 GTT wheels Full 3.5 inch exhaust (5-zigen Japan) HKS intake Blitz BOV Adjustable suspension Aftermarket Dash dials blue/green Greddy intercooler Tuned Apexi AVC-R Tuned Apexi SAF-C Stainless braided brake lines Aftermarket front strut brace, steering wheel, etc. etc. Currently punching out 180rwkw @ 10psi and 560Nm of torque, I have dyno sheets showing this if required. Interior looks new. This car has been extremely well maintained by both the Japanese owner(s) and myself. Very clean, excellent condition, 83000kms on the clock. I want to keep my MP3 player also! I am located in Townsville, North Queensland. Price: $25,000 ono PM me or call me on 0419 744 083 after 5pm. Reason for sale: Have just bought an R32 GTR! MORE PICS OF GTS-T HERE!!

I can say that I've also spent numerous weekends around this car, and it is in excellent condition. Truly nothing else around that looks (and sounds) quite the same. I guess this is what you get when you import a body kit from Central Europe!

You're a legend, SydneyKid...

Thanks for your input lads - at least I know I'm not alone!

Hi Lads, I have recently had a very strong fuel smell occur upon starting my Series 1 R33 GTS-t. I have only noticed it occur on cold starts, but may also be there on warm starts too. It only lasts about 30 seconds. Only mods recently done include tuning S-AFC, AVC-R. Have given the car a thorough inspection and found no leaks, and no deterioration near the fuel cap. Everything else is fine, couldn't be happier. Does anyone else have this fuel smell? What do you think might be causing it? (maybe an initial splurge of fuel into a cold exhaust?)

Talk to a guy named Scott who works at Crawfords Mechanical (Dynolink) Townsville on 4755 0000. This dude is amazing, a guru. He will know.

Let me get this straight - wastegate actuator has been tested to be okay. I assume that you know you are getting 15psi+ because you have an aftermarket boost gauge. 1. Have you tried a mate's aftermarket boost solenoid? This might be an issue. 2. When you tried the AVC-R, did you fully set it up correctly i.e. aftermarket solenoid and pressure sensor, change hoses ans fittings, disconnect factory solenoid, ECU wiring, etc.? Don't know if I can be much help, but you can PM me if you want to chat (I am in Townsville). Good luck,

I wouldn't tap into the main switched ACC power cables in the dash, the same wires that feed a stereo, etc. Be careful. Not sure exactly what you're running but it is best to connect boost controllers, A/F controllers etc. to power that is close to the ECU - at least that's what the manufacturers say. For example, an Apexi S-AFC has special grounding requirements. You will need wiring diagrams of your devices and ECU to do the job properly.

Firstly, you can't expect accurate results from a nasty bleed valve - the orifice that restricts the air flow is subject to change, as the metal valve heats and cools, changing the boost pressure that it is supposed to hold. To get 100% stable boost, you will need some sort of electronic feedback system, but of course this means more $. If you're going to increase boost pressure, I recommend that you also block off the factory BOV and run an aftermarket type. This is because the factory BOV is designed to slowly leak. This may also be a factor that impacts why you can't hold boost now with the bleeder. Hope this helps, cheers

The best way is to get it properly checked on a dyno, and the tuner can enrich/lean out your mixture with the S-AFC in this range, depending what its doing (the only way to know is to get it properly checked). Another cheaters way is to undo the bolts to the crank angle sensor and turn the housing a few degrees (so you can just see where the old bolt mark was) and tighten. This advances the timing slightly, it gave me an extra 12rwkw when I did this on the dyno. Good luck.

Thanks gents - I know max boost levels and ceramic turbine etc. I was just hoping that somebody might shed some light on the factory specs (A/R housing, ps flow, dimensions of turbine and compressor, etc.) Thanks for confirming the T3 flange

Thanks gents - I know max boost levels and ceramic turbine etc. I was just hoping that somebody might shed some light on the factory specs (A/R housing, ps flow, dimensions of turbine and compressor, etc.) Thanks for confirminh the T3 flange

I have done many searches, but everybody begins the response with: "I think..." or "A mate of mine said..." or "I read somewhere..." Nobody has a definite answer. Somebody must know for sure, not just think they know.

Is the series 1 R33 GTS-t standard turbo a Garrett T3?

Getting 350rwhp is no easy task. A higher flow blower is one thing, but you will also need larger cpaacity injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, engine management (a/f ratio control, boost, ignition timing etc.) and most definitely somebody who really knows their stuff on the dyno to help with a healthy tune. Try this site for turbo ps ratings: http://www.driftcentral.com/content_turboi...hp?tinfo=ttable Perhaps a GT2835 - notice the larger housings

They were not released with a central locking kit as standard. For some reason, the Japanese hate it. They prefer to use the key to lock their cars. My advise would be to get a damn good alarm system that also includes the locking kit with it.

I think those HKS filters are throw away, and shouldn't be washed or oiled, unlike the K&N type. I've got one too and I wish I had a girlfriend who was that filthy! I'm about to but a replacement filter for it from an online company - $33 each.

Me too, I only go for a Nissan genuine oil filter, and use Mobil 1 5W-50 oil.

Hi lads, Can anyone point me in the right direction to find this info? I cannot find exactly what I'm looking for, after by doing numerous searches. I'm after flange size (T25/28), A/R, turbine/compressor sizes, ps flow, etc. I need this information to make an educated decision for an upgrade. Thanks

Like Jebu said, 1. Unplug the screen unit, and just test the power cable 2. Place the red multimeter lead in the red socket pinout and the black in the black. 3. Turn the ignition key to 'on' 4. If this does not read 12V, then the problem lies with perhaps soldering to the incorrect wire on the ECU (need to get a switched supply ACC) 5. If this does give 12V, but the screen doesn't light up when you plug it in, it is stuffed. Apparently it is not too uncommon for the screens to blow. Also check all the rest of your wiring - you might have the incorrect signals, and this won't allow the car to start. Hope I didn't ramble on too much - hope it helps

I can't tell you how long I've been looking for a page like this. Thanks Paul, you the man!

Hi Guilty, The parkers are an absolute pain in the ass to change. I recommend that you do a search on this and see some of the pics that some kind members have posted for our use. I have a S1, but I think is is equally as difficult. The key to a speedy change, I found, is instead of ginning around scunning my knuckles trying to fit my mittens in small areas, I removed the carbon canister and my pod filter on the passenger side, and my washer fluid bottle on the drivers side. It takes 2 minutes to move these parts (no real need to fully remove), and it opens up the corners of the headlight assembly better. Follow the far extreme wires to the corners of the assembly. You will see that ther terminate into a small plug. This plug needs to be turned anticlockwise to remove it. I found that gripping the plug with a set of long-nose pliers worked well. Once this is removed, the bulbs just pull out of the socket, as they are a wedge design. You can try to leave everything in place and squeeze your hands into small places, but you would just be wasting time and the skin on your knuckles. Hope this helps

Thanks Trust33 - I'll give it a try. A bit of fuss = a challenge!

Hi, I am chasing the following: - Clear side indicators (new, or in damn good condition) for a R33 GTS-t - Clear front indicators (round type that fit the 400R front bar) If you can help, please send me a pm. Cheers,

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