Redbaboon

Do you mean broken glass, or that it won't go up and down with the switch?

The problem may not be the motor. Is it your passenger window? Sometimes the job is as simple as pulling both driver and passenger switches out, pulling them apart and cleaning the crap that builds up on the contacts. If you are not 100% sure that your motor is stuffed, try cleaning the switches - it may save you some $$$.

Spot on Steve - I did the same thing and had to re adjust the needles so that they ended up in the correct positions. I pried my needles off with a fork. Lucky no damage.

That's right, my liner's black and the code is KH3

Absolutely correct - RB20DET for R32, RB25DET for R33.

Mine came over with a crappy jap battery that only lasted about ten cranks before dying. I went and bought a Yuasa battery. Get the dude that you're buying off to check that the terminals will fit and that the footprint fits into the existing holder. Mine has a capacity of 425 CCA (I think) and it cost me around $130. Best money ever spent.

A full 3-inch dump back system should be adequate for the job. This is a good start for a lightly modded car to a monster. Power is hard to say, if you're running the stock R33 GTS-t ECU, turbo, etc. with your 3-inch exhaust, then at a factory 7 psi boost you may get to 180rwhp (135 rwkw) Just a ballpark figure

As Sumo said, it is a test that involves removing a spark plug, and inserting a 'compression' measuring dial and cranking the engine over. This forces the piston to compress, (but not there is no ignition). The pressure can then be seen on the dial before it dissipates. If the piston rings are shagged, then the compression will be poor. Good compression is important for a healthy engine, and you can find out the required compression for your engine from workshop manuals.

Don't worry about playing with the ECU. As long as you are careful and you have a little soldering skill there will be no problems. Just be sure you disconnect the negative terminal before touching the ECU, and make sure the joins are all insulated properly. The vehicle specific wiring diagrams can be obtained from the Apex-USA website.

Hi everyone, I've just installed an Apexi AVC-R EBC and can't get it to boost over factory 6.6psi. As far as I know it is setup correct, as per Apexi manual. Anyone else had this trouble? I would appreciate any help with this at all. If anyone has any engine bay pics of the solenoid and pressure sensor, it would also be greatly appreciated. I am in Rocky, if anyone has a 32 or 33 with AVC-R I would really appreciate a look. Thanks for your help in advance.

Correct, both will be at the manifold pressure. I recommend that the first pic is a more accurate measure, as it is further from the throttle plate. As craz0 says, the pressure hose from the manifold to the factory BOV will also work.

Thanks Neo_R34 - I believe that I did, but I'll check to see. Won't I feel like a goose if that's the problem!

Thanks Steve - I will check and recheck the connections. I also used the manual (in english) when I installed it from the Apex USA site. Will let you know how I go, may need to reroute the hose feeds.

Hi Lads, Hooked up my AVC-R and discovered that it won't go past factory boost. I have my actuator (solenoid) COM side connected to the wastegate actuator, and the other side has been plumbed via a tee-piece to be from the manifold (bottom line that passes underneath the throttle body). My pressure sensor is also plumbed between my plenum and factory BOV pressure line. Is this severely wrong? I have heard some people have used the pressure hose to the carbon canister to plumb to the solenoid, and tee-pieced the pressure sensor between the plenum and pressure regulator (where boost gauges are plumbed). Could this be a big issue for me? I would assume that these would be measuring the same pressure. Does anyone have any comments, your help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your reply AJ. Don't quite understand though. Do you mean that the factory setup is [hose from IC piping/solenoid/wastegate] and that your way is to go [hose from IC piping/bov return line/solenoid/wastegate]? Did you have the same problem with not being able to boost beyond factory?

Hi Lads, I have a S1 R33 GTS-t with Greddy FMIC, Full 3'' zorst, etc etc (same old, same old). Just installed both Apexi AVC-R and S-AFC to increase boost to 11 psi and adjust mixture. The bloody thing still won't go past the factory 6.6 psi! (I did this on the dyno this morning). I have checked the setup including solenoid, pressure sensor, but still can't go past factory boost. The factory solenoid has been disconnected. No matter what the setting in the AVC-R, it reached 6.6psi and opens the gate? Very puzzled - a sensor check seems to reveal nothing out of the ordinary, but at 6.6psi (measured by the dyno pressure sensor) the display says around 1mmHg on the AVC-R. Anyone seen this before, or has any idea why this is occurring? I did not get the S-AFC tuned because this would be pointless for factory boost. Thanks in advance.

Could be a stuck relay - or it could be a stuffed thermostat. Chances are you should get an autosparkie to check out your thermostat, as this switches the fan on via a relay when the temp goes beyond a certain point. I'm lucky, my fan has been modified to be on all the time.

Just like these fellas said - remove kick panel near passengers left foot and do your thing. No need to even touch the carpet. Good luck with the install!

Whoops! Pressed that damn button twice!

I always run on Premium (Optimax). It's always a good idea to also keep a bottle of that Pro Strength Octane Booster in the boot, in case you need to fill up with regular and there is no premium around. Just saves running the risk of ping when you kick it in the guts.

I always run on Premium (Optimax). It's always a good idea to also keep a bottle of that Pro Strength Octane Booster in the boot, in case you need to fill up with regular and there is no premium around. Just saved running the risk of ping when you kick it in the guts.

0.5 bar = 7.25 psi Information source is good, dunno whats doin...

Thnaks lads

Thanks lads - again you help is spot on!

Hi Lads, I had my R33 GTS-t imported almost a year ago now, which had these 17'' wheels on them (see attached photo). I don't think they are Skyline wheels, and have no idea where they are from. They are actually stamped Nissan on the inside of the wheel, but I'm not sure which Nissan they're from. Anyone seen them before?