Wacky Dee

do you have the whiteline springs with bilsteins? how are they ..harsh ride ? Yeah part numbers would be nice if it's for R34 GT-T. Any ideas what the spring rates are on those?

interesting ..what's the length of the standard bolts? But still this doesn't resolve the issue of having no hub centre for the wheels to slip on to so your wheels would be resting on the bolts alone right ??

Just heard back from them and they're saying the Lovells springs are 140lbs (2.5Kg/cm) front (??!?!?) and 160lbs (2.8Kg/cm) rear .. I woulda thought fronts would be stiffer but anyway. Does this seem too soft ? Should I go for some other brand springs ?

main problem with spacers as I see it is the fact that you bolt on the spacers themselves onto the hub using the hub's studs ... and the studs are 20mm or so iirc. So you need spacers that are 20mm or more to cover the old studs otherwise they will be sticking out and you'll need to cut them down. ie. you can't just put 10mm spacers and get away with it ..you would need to cut the old studs. Then there's the whole issue of legality ..they're completely illegal. And if you use the spacers that don't come with their own studs ie. you use the original studs, then you reduce the length of the original studs by whatever the spacer size is which IS risky ..it means your wheels will have less stud to be bolted on to. Trust me I've been thinking of doing this myself as everytime I see my rear wheels I wanna cry cause they're not as wide as they could/should be and been looking at spacers ... but whichever way you look at it, it's just not worth it. Best to sell your wheels and get new ones with the correct offset and width.

Just spoke to eastcoast suspension ... he said the Lovells would be about 30% stiffer than stock springs but nowhere near 4.5kg like you mentioned, probably about 3Kg (still waiting for confirmation) and he said the stiffer springs (4.5Kg) would be a different kind (racing spring) but would be a lot costlier as other stuff would need changing too .. I am getting so confusored now ... what do you reckon is the spring rate on the stockies ?? And would going to these standard Lovells actually improve my ride quality being that they're stiffer springs, keeping in mind I'll go 2cm lower than car is currently.. Thanks

so when you actually get new springs like say the Lovells you can ask for a specific spring rate ?? Or do they come with a predefined spring rate depending whether they're "lows" or "super lows" ? I'd love to improve the ride quality .. the bilsteins + stock springs = VERY harsh ride and you can feel every bump. So what do you reckon should I be asking in terms of spring rate as I want to lower it another 2cm more than it currently is (its already 2cm lower than stock using the Bilstein circlip grooves)

Are there any lips for the R34 GTT frontbar other than the Eastbear ? I really want to fix up my frontbar height as it just looks weird now with too much clearance... Ideally I want something no bigger than 3-4cm TOPS that just attaches to the factory frontbar. The eastbear lip/diffuser is 7-8cm so its way too big and it costs $900 so no go. I've seen a couple of GTTs before with front lips on stock bars but have no idea what they were. Something like just the bottom half of the Eastbear lip (the diffuser part) would be excellent. Don't wanna change the whole frontbar either as I like my factory frontbar (looks good AND its proper plastic)

camber bushes (whiteline) were installed back and front .. as well as pineapples (aka "subframe alignment kit") The stock springs were NOT cut .. the Bilsteins just has extra circlip grooves cut into them by Heasmans to adjust the height. Heasman had aligned the wheels as well ... but it was one helluva quick alignment. I might just try get a proper alignment somewhere else. If that still doesn't work, I'll get new springs installed. I've been quoted $750 for new springs supplied and installed .. some aussie brand, not Kings. The place is pretty reliable from what I hear (Eastcoast Suspension) .. or should I stick to Kings? Edit: oh yeah just remember the brand ..Lovells ? Does that seem like a fair price for supply/install?

If you're desperate to sell it, have you thought of taking it back to stock or as close to as possible and selling the extra goodies? I'm sure if you took the PFC, GCG, clutch and injectors out you could get around $4k just for those items .. then put stock 2nd hand items in and sell for $16-17k in no time ? Tried carsales yet? Still can't believe this hasn't been sold yet..

I had heasman's install the new shocks/bump stops etc and seeing as how they're supposed to be good at this sort of stuff I would've hoped they installed the bumpstops correctly .. is there any way to check without taking the shocks out??

how do you mean ?

I've had the GTT for almost a year now and honestly can't remember if it's always been like this or only since suspension update ... Anyway, few months ago I had the Bilsteins and whiteline bushes from SK's groupbuy installed as well as the 'rear subframe alignment kit'. I'm using factory springs lowered about 2cm on the Bilsteins. Pretty decent directional tyres from Maxxis.. Now the problem I'm having is that the car loses traction extremely easily if there are any sort of bumps in the road ESPECIALLY when going into a corner. So much so that I am now in a habit of turning TCS off whenever I get in the car. But even that doesn't help when I go around a corner (and I'm not talking spirited cornerning, just normal speed) and if there are any bumps, potholes etc in the road the car feels like it's losing power. Almost as if the TCS is kicking in (however its turned off) but not quite as violent. So I lose power as if the one or more wheels aren't making contact with the road Is this axel tramping or something else and what should I be looking at fixing ? Is it just my stock springs being too soft or something? The ride seems pretty harsh since changing to Bilsteins and lowering it on the stock springs..

ZOMG !#!$!$$ 100 ??? you serious ? Holy crapola batman .. I thought it's gonna be like 20 cars max. Man this thing will be massive Can't wait! I prefer to call 'her' The Reaper

yep I'll be there weather permitting .. R34 GT-T ... how many cars are you guys expecting all up approx. ?

do we have to sign up for the cruise or just rock up on the day/morning?

Is it true the apexi panel filter is just plain paper with apexi logo on it? I read it in a couple of threads now..

'red one' being a particular brand or just the usual generic colour for the oem paper filters ?

Currently have a K&N style (splitfire brand) oiled panel filter in my GTT but want to switch to a dry panel filter... I've been searching and reading old threads for close to 2 hours now but still can't find a definitive answer. Where as the Apexi PODs seem to get great reviews, their panel filters are according to a few posters nothing but plain paper panel filters with the Apexi logo .. and they cost $100 or so. So I'm wondering if anyone else here uses dry panel filters and what type/brand and what their experience has been like. Some people are suggesting to just get OEM paper panel filters (like Ryco) as they're cheap but are they any good in terms of flow ?? I don't want to install a POD but I want the max. airflow/filtration that I can get with a panel filter without resorting to the oiled kind (K&N, Splifire etc)

that's a very interesting note about the factory rubber induction pipe .. I've read about this once before somewhere else but not much attention seems to be paid to this item, even though it's cheap. what's a good dry panel filter to get in terms of flow and filtering? Right now I have a K&N I think which is the oiled kind and I don't think my AFM likes it too much..

if you gut your cat EVERYONE driving behind you will notice because of the stench coming out of your exhaust ... and you're risking a $10,000 fine afaik all for a measly 5-10hp extra ? Please don't give idiotic advice to newbies..

whats 40psi in kg/cm2 ?

it's not 2nd hand, they arrived at my place a week ago after a 2+ month wait. They haven't been fitted or anything, so they are NEW. Guys, price is firm, if you don't like it, please order from the supplier directly. I am NOT desperate to sell these so don't try and lowball me when I've said multiple times that price is firm. If I can't sell them at a almost $100 loss I'll just keep them and fit them when I have the time and money.

bumpy styles

what sort of effect would 17 vs 15 degrees have though? He told me it should be OK as-is.. don't think he'd redo the tune for free, more like $300 for a retune. And it's been 6+ months anyway..

quick question in regards to base timing ... my base timing is set to 17 degrees (R34 GTT) and I'm pretty sure that's not the factory base timing ... we only found out AFTER the ecu was remapped. The tuner said to leave it, it shouldn't be an issue ... but I have occasional misfires. Could this be due to the base timing being set to 17 deg? I was told by the tuner if we change the base timing now, the remap tune would be useless and we'd have to do it again.