Wacky Dee

check your plugs see if they're in a good nick and replace if necessary .. lower the gap to maybe .8 or .9mm, this is your cheapest option. Other than that, i'd take it to a skyline mechanic for diagnostic check etc

probably not worth the hassle Daniel .. I'm sure Nissan engis knew what they were doing when they decided on the rotor sizes. Besides most of the braking is at the front due to the weight of the engine which is why the discs are bigger at the front. Slotted rotors should give you better than stock braking anyway.

just get a black skyline then any bonnet looks good on it

I've been considering spacers (hub centric) but totally gave up on it as it's too much of a risk. you really need 20mm+ spacers to stop the original studs from portruding (so that you don't have to cut them) plus there are just too many horror stories about spacers and wheels coming off so not worth it at all imo.

I agree with Quack ... total waste of time IMO as the stock mirrors look just fine (better than these gandorrrs) Nice GTR moneypit but what the hell... you reeeeeally need some bigger/phatter rims dude

I'd love this frontbar but according to Josh it's 47cm so it sits VERY low (10cm lower than stock) so if your car is lowered even 2cm you'd have almost no clearance at the front. But it is the best GTT front bar around no doubt about it. And forget a GB ..this guy is very busy and the price is already extremely low as it is.

the pod doesn't give you any extra power .. it just makes a cool sound and it sux in hot air from the engine bay (unless enclosed properly, which i highly doubt you've done) so stick with the standard airbox with a paper panel filter.

um the fuse box is to the right of your gas pedal, there's a plastic cover you take off to get to it .. is that what you meant?

what gap are you using? My 34 was misfiring badly on 0.8mm when idle almost constant misfire on idle and up to 3000rpm .. upped the gap to 1mm and it went away.

is there any other 10W40 motul in grp 4/5 that doesn't cost an arm and a leg ?? 8100xcess is 5W40 but I want 10w40 (stops my lifter noise..any thinner and its a racket)

sent you a payment for slotted R34 gt-t rotors and a PM

is there a min speed limit on the track ? No really, i don't wanna be slowing down and pissing off everyone else ... I probably wouldn't go more than 80kmh

first post on pg. 1 says Motul 4100 Turbolight is only a group 2 oil ?? Is that true ?

yeah I've spoken to Max on the phone a couple of times and he does sound sincere and like a good bloke BUT it's been more than 2 months for me now and still no seat covers. I might give him another call to see what's up.

how hard is it to remove the r34 gtt injectors ?? I've just been quoted approx. $200 for injector cleaning/seal replacements by a couple of places PLUS labour. One place wanted about $200 for labour the other quoted $400 min. for labour. Apparently it's a monster of a job as the manifold has to come off??

stock coils or splitfires?

we're talking about greenslip insurance (CTP/compulsory third party) which is needed to renew car rego, not the normal comprehensive insurance which comes on TOP. Maybe there's no CTP in WA or it might be included in your normal insurance like in the ACT.

what about that hypergear hiflow? It's not BB but it uses garett internals and new only costs $900 ? something to consider if on a tight budget ... that extra money can buy a lot of nice supporting mods

just another quick Q, is it possible to reliably measure the thickness without taking the wheels off ?

I'll get the mechanic to take out the spark plugs when I get the injectors cleaned and inspect the plugs to see if they're fouled. I have no problems replacing them with 6s if indeed there appears to be an issue as they're only $20 for 6 of them anyway. Been doing a bit more researching and it seems a lot of people run 6s without issues, even though others swear you shouldn't have anything less than 7s. I guess wait and see what comes out Thanks nuffsaid, I agree. Last thing I need when there's so much conflicting info out there is a smartarse just wasting my time NOT telling me how to fix something but saying crap like "oh yeah anyone can fix that, its not rocketscience" and shit like that. Just look at how many people have bad fuel economy issues and have to spend countless hours and try a hundred different things to get a result. In regards to the vaccum leak, I'll have a speak to Yavuz soon. My last impression was that it could be a VERY costly excercise which is why I thought bugger it esp. when someone told me the average skyline has less vaccum than mine does now with this leak. I think I remember someone saying their EBC shows -60 when idle ... mine is roughly -90 when warmed up.

more like from 18psi to 17 .. that's very typical of what I see on most peoples graphs. Have a look in the stickied section in all the RB25 upgrades ..lots of graphs there

do you have an electronic boost controller? Honestly every dyno graph I've seen I always seem to see the boost pressure starting to drop off at the top end mine included. My tuner said that it's very common for skylines. I'm sure someone will disagree and probably has more useful advice. How much is the boost dropping off and how quickly ? Post up your dyno graph if you have it handy

who says I made my mind up ? I didn't ask anything about spark plug heat ranges. I may have mentioned them but I didn't ask "which heat range plugs should I use" BECAUSE I've been through that before and have settled with 7s which work fine. If you do a friggin search on SAU you'll find various opinions but MOST of the people in the know keep repeating what my mechanic said ie. heat range 7 is the right heat range for a modified skyline running more boost than stock with other mods. And READ mr gray's post, it's all just smart arse remarks but not a single piece of useful advice or explanation as to why I should make fixing a minor vac leak my priority when all the other things are mentioned OVER AND OVER in various threads as possible causes of misfiring and bad fuel consumption. God I f**king hate this place sometimes. When I know something that's being asked by someone else I try and help by answering the question, if I don't know the answer I read what other people have to say and try to learn something. Why do I get smartarses and f**kwits in my threads everytime? f**k OFF IF YOU HAVE NOTHING USEFUL TO ADD OR IF YOU JUST WANT TO PUT SOMEONE ELSE DOWN.

thanks mate. Just to save someone else the trip ..GTT fronts are 30mm and rears 18mm when new, that's a great resource for looking up rotors sizes/thickness someone should sticky it

yeah i just did a quick search again on heat range discussions ..and a few people (incl. obviously my tuner) say to get the 7's, one of the mentioned pre-reqs for colder plugs is if you're running more than stock boost which I am (12psi vs stock which is 8psi I believe) otherwise to stick to 6s