JimX

You can't find it? I did a Google on "s2000 redline mobil" and it was the first result Well it seems you were right. This is about diffs and not boxes but the same principle applies. I would still be interested to know why this happens though. I think I'll be dumping my Redline oil in the near future and getting some Mobil.

I'm guessing some sort of spraypaint is in order. But considering the under-bonnet temperatures, should I be looking for any particular type? Also, what can I do about the "NISSAN" logo? It looks pretty old as well. Can you buy new logos to stick on, or should I just paint over the whole lot?

I think it's a button that changes the length of your turbo.

Did you get told any reason why it would prematurely wear out your gearbox? Knowing what I do about gearboxes and oils, I can't really see anything about Redline that would cause this. Redline is designed to reduce the shock loading between the gears, so if anything it should extend your gearbox's life no matter what the conditions. But if you have a source, I'd be happy to see the reasons.

Only driven on Sundays to the local shopping mall! And parked in the handicap spot because it couldn't fit in a normal space

I have to agree that Motul is pretty good stuff. I had been running Castrol 5W-30, but swapped over to the thicker Motul 8100 5W-40 which is designed for turbo cars. I had no problems with Castrol beforehand, but I wanted something a bit thicker for the summer. It was the same price as the Castrol 5W-30 (but less than the 0W-40 and 10W-60), and I have found it's pretty much the same or better. Oil pressure has increased slightly but noticably, and my economy hasn't suffered at all. Since my economy remains the same I may as well keep running the thicker oil all year round. I'll be sticking to Motul in future. I think because it's not as widely known about as Mobil, Shell, Castrol, etc, it tends to cost less for the same or more quality.

So in other words, you don't read everything and make uninformed and inaccurate comments on unspecified things others have written. I can see no outright bagging of the GTiR here, just some opinions on looks and some reports of what might go wrong or what to expect from mods. I guess you've not read any threads on here about crunchy gearboxes, broken ringlands, and factory turbo limits on Skylines? As a forum I find the people here to be the least biased compared to others. You even get the occasional Skyline owner recommending something other than a Skyline when someone asks what car to buy (shock horror!) I think S15 owners need to stop making bollocks comments in this forum.

Can you show me an individual that has said that Skylines are the be all and end all of performance?

Edit: Ah don't mind me, I don't know what I'm talking about. I missed the word "other".

Yesterday I saw a bus in the city with finger writing in the dust. Weirdly enough, it was all Japanese performance shop stuff like APEX'i, Mugen, HKS, etc. I couldn't figure out the motivation for it, and I think it was on the outside of the bus which rules out schoolkids on the back seat. Still could have been schoolkids though, doing at the bus stop before getting on. It was just really odd. Anyone seen something similar?

I managed to bounce my Ambipurr thinigie out with relatively soft Bilstein shocks. I just taped it up underneath and have had no problems since. I've also removed and replaced it many times without it damaging my vents.

The guy from Powerflow sounds like an idiot. And it's pretty common knowledge that the 044 can be mounted internally. I doubt that ALL of those shops would tell you it couldn't be mounted internally. If they thought that then they should come and have a look at my pump install and at least half a dozen other SAU cars. Edit: Just for the record, I do not know if the factory sock will fit on the 040 pump or not. But for the reason given, that the pump already has a mesh, makes it stupid. My 044 also has an internal mesh, but the sock fits on with a couple of adapters and no problems.

Well you can add me to your list then At least for now, it may change in the future after I tune my PowerFC. I put in my gear and set it to 4 degrees, and the car ran noticably worse. It lost all its top end and maxed out the injectors a lot earlier. Now it could have just been that it lost its top end because the injectors were maxed out. But because the AFM wasn't maxed out, I'm thinking that it was just upsetting the timing too much. I also tried 3 degrees with similar results, but it wasn't as bad as 4 degrees. So I put it back to 0 and that's where it is now and running pretty good. When I get my PowerFC tuned (along with injectors and AFM upgrade) I'll get them to play around with the gear setting. If they find it works best on 0 degrees, out it goes and back goes the factory gear.

Sydneykid, what do you recommend replacing the intake piping with? I got quoted around $400 to do the whole lot from intake through turbo up to the intercooler, but with what exactly I wasn't told. At present only a bit of the intake side of the intercooler is done in the nice shiny stuff. At present it looks ugly and quite restrictive, with press bends in the metal bits and rubber/plastic elsewhere.

Are there any details of the accident? Like what he hit and what happened to him afterwards etc.

I guess that's possible, but as long as it didn't get starved of fuel (ie, run empty or over 100% of capacity) it should be ok.

Not this argument again. I would say that if you hit 150 knock on your PowerFC, it says more about your car than the fuel you used. I have never had a problem with Optimax. Although I only prefer it because the stations with it are more plentiful and I know where to find it cheapest. Only about 1 in 5 BP stations carry Ultimate in Sydney. Once every BP starts carrying Ultimate I may change my preference but until then, or I strike a problem with Optimax, I will be happy pulling into any cheapass Shell I see and know that I can get 98RON fuel there. In my area a few Mobils also carry cheap fuel until Wednesday or sometimes Thursday. If I'm out of fuel on one of those days and I see a cheap Mobil, I have no problems filling up with Synergy at 10cpl less than everyone else.

GT30 can be had for around $2700 (or less?) if you shop around. At that price I would get the GT30.

The pump has a low and high stage of running. The low stage is for idle, and the rest of the time is at high speed. The biggest thing the pump has to fight against is fuel pressure. If you start maxing out the capacity of the pump, its job gets easier because the pressure gets less and it doesn't have to work as hard. So I would say hammering your car all over the place probably extends its life But not by any significant margin. It's more a case of how long it runs in total before it fails.

It's always good to write down the settings even if you aren't planning a reset, just in case you lose them somehow. I've yanked the wires out of the S-AFC by accident and it still didn't lose settings. It's pretty robust.

JVS007, I think you need to do more research. I've got an 044 mounted internally in my tank with terminals exposed. What made you think fuel conducts electricity? And just because the pumps have internal mesh does not mean you don't have to put the pickup back on. If you don't it will be sucking fuel from halfway up the tank. Do you feel like refilling your tank when it gets to half full? And getting surge whenever you go around a corner.

Any of them can be mounted internally. Just that the 040 was designed to be mounted internally. But the others work fine internally too.

Ah right. There's no hose connecting the rocker covers to the plenum at present that I recall. There's one line which is blocked off on the plenum, which could have gone to the crank case originally. I'll have to take another look.

What's blocking the PCV valve do again? I know you've mentioned it in the past but I forget

Reasonable tightness is fine.