JimX

It's a pretty major operation to put a pod in the stock airbox. It can be done but some mods need to be made. That's why most people remove it when fitting their pod, and why aftermarket pod boxes are so readily available. It's easier to fit one of these than to mod your original box to fit the pod.

Well maybe substitute "decent quality air filter" for "any air filter" I've seen turbos with damaged compressor wheels, I can only assume it's from a lack of air filtration.

If you're going to spend $1k, I would get a tracker or even just a phone pager thing along with a cheap alarm. 100 immobilisers aren't going to stop your car getting towed. Even with the alarm blaring no one's going to look twice! I had to get my car towed recently (long story, simple problem) and the alarm kept going off because I accidentally armed it and it would auto re-arm when I clicked it off because I hadn't opened the door. The tow truck guy said don't worry they all do it because of the motion sensors and no one ever looks twice. Brant also want like $150 for automatic power window winders. Sure Brant may be the best alarm/immobiliser you can get, but unless you're made of money the $1000 can be better spent on security.

That's after it's done a nice bit of damage to your compressor wheel Checking the turbo wheel on any car you're about to buy can be a good way of seeing if a decent quality air filter was used on the car.

Yeah Boomerang is a POS. I have one too (came with the car) and the main remote is totally stuffed (worn out due to use/old age). I'm currently using the backup remote so I don't get the paging function. Jetspeed wants $180 for a new remote! This is like almost as much as a whole new different brand alarm with similar features. I am thinking of getting another cheapie alarm from Ebay like the Mannix or Giordan and then also hooking in a phone paging function or getting an expensive tracker. Also I have problems with the main Boomerang unit like Amaru does. Sometimes the alarm goes off for no reason due to one of the shock sensors, but this isn't an over-sensitive thing. There is absolutely NO shock at all and it'll sometimes go off. Only once every few weeks or months, but still annoying. It has a pretty reasonable sensitivity to real shocks, ie a buzzbox exhaust won't set it off but kicking a wheel will, so this is how I know it's not an over-sensitive thing just a fault. It also doesn't respond very well to either the main remote or backup remote. I don't think it's a signal strength thing, because I can be right next to the car or 50 metres away and it'll still usually take several keypresses to arm or disarm. The backup remote is worse than the primary one. I don't know why they don't supply 2 main remotes with it, all the cheap ones come with 2 main remotes rather than one main one with all functions and one dodgy backup one with only 3 functions. I think they are $1000 or so new, but I don't think they're worth the price of the remote ($180).

I would get the VT/VX Gen III Commodore if you want to do any towing. Just make sure the engine isn't suffering from oil usage problems as many of them are. One way to tell is to listen for piston slap when starting from cold, if it does this then stay away. Although it may sound ok but still have this problem, so be careful.

Will you take $40 including postage to Sydney? They're about $46 including postage from Greenline. (or $50 from JustJap, but personally I'd rather pay a bit less and get it delivered )

Do you know roughly how many k's you will get out of the RT225's? Also any new tyre will out perform a worn out one in the wet, because it has new tread. I would try to judge them on their own merit rather than comparing them to your old ones.

My boost gauge is plumbed into the factory vacuum line on the driver's side, nowhere near the wastegate. I guess it depends on whether you want the reading to come from the turbo or plenum side, but I've found that with my EBC set to 0.9 bar, the Autometer gauge reads 14psi so it's inaccurate enough to not worry about which side it comes from. As long as it's consistent which it is.

Should be ok, ring up one of the Skyline friendly workshops and ask them. If it's all good, book it in and fork over the bucks. If you don't get an answer you like over the phone, try the next workshop on the list

350hp can be done on the standard turbo. Much higher than that and you'll probably need to get it highflowed or replaced with a bigger unit. Other usual mods which should probably come before this are 3 to 3.5" exhaust, upgraded ECU (S-AFC or PowerFC for example), upgraded boost via bleed valve or electronic boost controller, bigger fuel pump, umm that'll probably do it actually. A frount mount intercooler will also probably help. I've heard mixed reports about the standard clutch. Some say it needs upgrading at around 300hp, others say it holds over 400hp. Best off just see how you go, and replace it when it starts slipping. If the engine's already out and you're replacing it anyway, then definitely go for something beefier.

I don't ever recall being told that it would vastly improve the handling in my car. It wasn't mentioned by anyone in this thread and I've never heard anyone else say it. The main points of it were to slow or stop leakage from the tyres, and to improve consistency of tyre pressure over a wider temperature range. Personally I'd do it primarily for the former reason because I'm a lazy bastard. $20 to not have to bother checking my tyre pressures every week, sign me up. The water vapour in normal air is also not good for the lining of your tyres (something else fixed by nitrogen), but we usually go through a set before this matters anyway.

Have any of you knocking nitrogen actually tried it? Or just applying your general expertise in the fields of physics and chemistry?

When they put nitrogen in, they take all the air and water vapour out. The reason why normal tyres leak a bit of air is they cause tiny spots of rust around the valve which causes it to leak. Once you put the nitrogen in there is no water vapour to cause the valves to rust so the valve holds better. Sure it's not 100% airtight but it's a vast improvement.

At this stage I'm thinking of ST115's which are around $1000 for all 4 corners in the same sizes you mentioned. Depending on how rich I'm feeling when my tyres need replacing next year, I may consider something a little more expensive. I think Franks got a good deal on the Toyo RS1's for around $1300.

Air isn't flammable either

Proxes are good, but expensive. I was considering them until I found the ones I wanted were $450 a pop (rears).

The main points of nitrogen is that it doesn't leak unless you have a puncture or faulty valve, and the pressure doesn't go up as much with heat. If I can find a place to do it for $5 a wheel when I buy my new tyres, I will definitely be getting it. Mainly for the convenience of never having to top up my tyres.

Pull the disc off and have a look. You should be able to access it from the other side with the disc off and replace it if you can still find it. I don't think it's too critical though, the discs are far from water proof.

Reportedly so.

My 044 seems to vary. When cold it's very quiet, almost as silent as the factory pump. But as it heats up (dependant mostly on weather) it gets louder. I'm hoping it just needs to be "broken in" and it will gradually get quieter with usage. It's only done a couple of thousand km so far. Either way a moderately loud stereo drowns it out completely, whether hot or cold.

The best solution is to replace the bulbs with the same wattage type. If they won't fit or you cbf, these formulas might help: Voltage = Current / Resistance (V=I/R) Power = Voltage * Current (P=V*I) Erm, I'm too lazy to work out what resistor size you'll need but it should be easy enough to work out.

Replace the O2 sensor?

You don't need an aftermarket ECU to run adjustable cam gears but it may help. I installed mine and I found that the best setting was on 0 degrees (ie same as factory). This may change after tuning though. You can't easily tune them yourself at home, best to do on the dyno where you can monitor the air fuel ratio so you don't run it too lean. If you know how to use a dyno properly it should take around an hour, otherwise give it to the workshop and they'll charge you around $200-300 for the same thing.

I got an S-AFC soon after getting my mildly modded car (T04 turbo, exhaust, boost controller, small FMIC) and it gave me a uniform extra 15rwkw across the board. Then after a few more mods, which were a bigger FMIC, new front facing plenum, bigger fuel pump, upgraded wastegate actuator to handle more boost, and running higher boost, the car got 2 massive dips in the powerband even after re-tuning the S-AFC. I had more power up top, but it felt very flat after 5000rpm or so. At this stage I upgraded to a PowerFC and it's fixed it. And I haven't even tuned it yet. I don't think it was a case of the ECU and S-AFC not handling the power, I just think the airflow was so radically different from stock that caused it to have a bit of a sad. There are other guys running over 215rwkw with S-AFC and no problems. Part of it is luck. I say you should get a second hand S-AFC, and when the car starts not coping, sell it and get a PowerFC.