turbo_brian

Date depending, I am in for sure!!! Once we have a confirmed date, update the first post with the date and I will see e eryone there. Cant wait, it will be my first SAU cruise with the R32 B.

Yep, the 'Emissions' for a POD filter are not gas emissions, but noise emissions, as they change quite dramatically, even with only a POD change. I have twin PODS on the GTR, and they are LOUD compared to a stock box. I am in the process of creating a custom box for around the PODs, but we will see how that goes at a later stage B.

Tom, how many cc's are the sard injectors?? B.

swap the non-popping with the popping and retest. Could be amp chsnnel stuffed, causing pure voltage, could be voicecoil on sub stuffed, needing new/repaired sub. unless it's a few grand sub, generally there isn't a worth of repairing them. B.

I dont believe in engine flushing myself, it thins out the oil, and no matter how long you leave the engine oil draining, there will always be old engine oil with flush still left in the engine, mixing with the nice clean oil and fouling it up with the flushing agent. Personally, for my first engine flush I do on a new (newly bought 2nd hand) car, I drain the oil, replace the filter with the cheapest reputable (valvaline or similar) filter, fill with new clean oil, and take the car for a drive until it reaches normal operating temperature. After it's reached temperature, I come back and do another oil change with proper synthetic oil, another new filter and then she's sweet from there on. Doing it this way, the engine oil originally in the car is removed, new oil (not a shit oil, but not $90 oil) is run through the engine to flush out the old oil, then drained. Once that's done, the actual running oil is put in, and she's run on that from then on. Each oil change after that is simply oil and filter every time with decent synthetic oils. I used engine flush once, and it thinned the oil, took away the carbon and other impurities that where stopping tappet rattles and other issues, and the engine came out rattling like an old tractor, so never again, if it is running good, there is not need for flushing it completely. B.

1. Wheels are wrong offset, piss the off, piss the spacers off at the same time, and get proper wheels. 2. Cops wont care if you have God himself change the laws of physics to make them safe, spacers are illegal. RWC means shit, my old 180sx was passed twice with a rust hole 18" long under the passenger door, and a 9cm roung role through the floor, does this mean O should have left the 180 on the road in such an unsafe condition?? 3, Nah, not as much fun as when I was 13yrs old, it's kinda lost it's edge a little. Look, I was driving back from Brisbane to Sydney in my 180sx, had recently done a read brake pad change, but the people changing the pads didn't insert the spacers properly. Guess what, driving back the car was very wiggly, started at Currumbin, got worse as I was going, but I blamed it on the slipstreaming of trucks I was doing, 100km/h sitting bout 50cm off the back of the trucks, I assumed the wind draft was causing the wiggle. Anyway, it got very bad, and by Coffs harbour I thought I better check it out. There was an asscociated noise, so I climbefd under, had a look and found a loose tailshaft. Tightened the bolts on the shaft, had a coffee, and took off to catch up to the trucks. Got to Nambucca heads, car still swinging and moving in the rear like a mofo, so I pulled over, relieved myself, and coming back notived the rear tire sitting at an angle of about 50 degrees to the car. Got the torch out (1am in the morning at this stage) and had a closer look, I had 1 bolt, sheared 2 bolts, and the remaining bolt was bent, and the nut had literally fallen off. Jacked up the rear of the car, removed both wheels, hammered a stud from the other side to give me 2 studs, hammered the bent stud semi-straight, got the wheels back on. Called NRMA road-side, and got escorted back into the town area, slept in the car, and went to Bridgestone the next morning. They had a selection of studs, replaced the 3 that needed replacing on the rear with studs that where similar (either the same or longer with the same thread) and replaced the nuts, so I went home with 3 on the effected wheel, 4 on the other side, and the fronts where fine. Anyway, long story short, because of incorrectly positioned spacers, my wheel came loose, sheared and snapped studs, and I could have almost lost a wheel. Something to note was that before I pulled over due to busting for a piss, I was doing 130km/h, can you imagine the consequences of 130km/h, loosing your rear wheel??? Not focking pretty!! Now my advise, get new wheels, remove your spacers, and get your car safe. Yes, here is probably other cars on the road that are in worse condition to yours, but you have illegal components causing a very potentially dangerous issue, which has already made it's self known by stuffing 2 of your studs, so rather than bandaid the problem and fix the 2 studs, Resolve the issue perminantly and become safe B.

Lol, BHDave isn't running a 'boy racer' GTS, he has the real deal under the hood, where it matters. He is also mature enough to know his sh1t, but from your comments your not..... B.

Possibly me, I was in the area picking up garbage from a customer B.

After searching, having the other half search, and not really finding ready-build side indicators (front guard mounted) for the GTR, and the GTS-T ones not fitting, I decided to give this tutorial from my old Soarer days a go, and it doesn't look to hard to do, and results seem to be alright. I am getting a dremel and some spare indicator brackets next weekend (heavily booked this weekend) and will give it a go, and when I get around to it, will post pictures, but this tutorial might help others for a DIY clear-look indicator lenses for the R32 GTR Skylines. Could also help for other cars as well, and wont cost you the stupid prices I have heard about either. http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages...html?1195895355 Let me know if you cant see the article, and I will copy and paste (with thanks to the author and site for their hard work in bringing us this information). Brian.

Probably completely different problem here, but with the 1JZ Toyota motor (not sure is Nissan's RB is the same) the crank pulley and Harmonic balancer is a 2-piece item, the section that is connected to the motor is metal, the pulley it's self is metal, and there is a rubber shock-absorbing connector that holds the 2 together. On my other car, the rubber between the 2 metal sections pitted and broke loose, so each time I started the car, it would screach just a little. Problem with this one (and again, dont know if the RB has the same issue) is that this pulley drives alternator, waterpump and other peripherals, so if the pulley stopped spinning (of came off) it would stop pumping coolant around the engine. Mine has come off twice now, thus the reason for buying a new car, so not sure if the Nissan could/would have the same issue, but something worth looking at. My personal preference is that once a belt starts to make noise, it's usually crying to be replaced, or the tensioner is requiring attention. B.

+1 for thermal overload. Also, what grounding have you got on the effected Amp?? Remember, dont ground 2 amps at the same point, use 2 different grounding points, make sure they both have strong contact points, and the cable is sufficient. B.

Didn't see your 2nd post, but I replied in the first post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Im...ry-t215938.html B.

I am assuming battery is in the engine bay, and you cant find a grommet to get the 4 guage power cable through (I had the same problem on the weekend with my R32 GTR). On mine, I found a massive bunch of wires going into the driver side front guard area, and then coming through a monsterous grommet into the drivers side front foot well, so I ran my cable into here. Removed the battery (you should do this anyways), jacked the car up, removed the front tire and wheel, unscrewed and unclipped the under-guard plastics, ran the power cable into the guard area from the engine bay and tied the cable up to leave enough spare cable for termination to my fuse, then pushed the cable through the grommet under the guard and had a friend drag it through inside the car. Once it was all the way through, I used cable ties to lock the cable from movind inside the guard area (stops unwanted knocking noises and cable sheith wear) and then replaced the plastic, the wheel, and lowered the car back down to continue my install. Side note: Not sure how well earthed the R34 is, but the stock 32 is not adequite, so you might want to think about upgrading the battery to chassis to engine block earth cable with a new battery terminal as well, or also think about an under-bonnet earthing kit, which will help reduce the chance of engine noise getting into your amp and being pumped through your speakers. Also, run your sheilded RCA leads down the OTHER side of the car from the power run, keep them as far apart as possible to reduce cross-interference and induction being introduced into your RCA leads, and obviously into your amp, therefore being pumped into your speakers. B.

Robert, Sound Deadener is used because it's YOUR music, not everyone out side the car's music It does make an awesome difference to your sound, it means your sound stays in the car, but more importantly, road noise, traffic noise, and other imperfections in sound stay OUTSIDE the car, meaning your audio pleasure is not interupted by unwanted noise. With the Diffuser panels that MArty used in the previous page, theya re there to stop the sound of the speaker going into the door, bouncing off the sound deadener, and coming back out (giving a kind of echo effect). What they do is spread the rebounded sound and diffuse it into the door (thus the reason for the 2nd layer of deadener as well). As always, these photos are Marty at his absolute best, and doing what he always does (a brilliant job). On the odd occasion I have seen MArty's work, usually so infrequent that he forgets me every time, but whenever I see photos or work he has done, it's always so detailed, and complete that I know it's an FHRX install. B.

+1 for Locker. Just unplugging the Hicas means it wont hold pressure, therefore wont lock the hicas, therefore rear wheels will randomly wobble and turn. This is a BIG problem. Hicas locker kits are about $135 from Just Jap and other places, they take an hour or so to install, and they permiantly LOCK the wheels to stay straight. Definately worth the purchase. B.

Rotten egg sort of smell could be clutch smell, your clutch might be slipping a bit. B.

Best Advice ever here, dont listen to people that talk from their arses. Police can 'look' under the engine bay for what they 'thought they heard' in the beliefe that the car has illegally fitted or non-ADR compliant modifications. Police can also look in the car, boot, etc with what is called probably cause, where they 'believe' they saw/smelt/believe you might have hidden something which could be dangerous, or illegal. Telling the cop they cant search without a warrant will also be deemed probably cause, as they will think your hiding something. It will also get you the reply "you watch to many movies". Again, Police can and will look through the engine bay if they so wish, in looking for something like illegal mods. They might have heard someone's Atmospheric BOV, saw you come around the corner, and therefore they believe the noise to have come from your car, this is enough for them to stop you, have you shut down the car, and check under the hood. Also, at this point they can deem that the car 'looks modified' and check inside the car for mods as well, such as gear lever mods (to check the new lever either has a H-patter, or there is a sticker advertising the H-pattern within 10cm of the lever), check for modified'racing' pedals (and to see that there is rubber on the pedals), there is a massive list of stuff they can go through and check. There isn't a lick you can do about it, just smile, be polite, and try to make the most of the situation. I work closely with a lot of police,I am a very active SES member in my local area, and therefore my cars are known to Police in the area. Because of this, I get nothing more than a look from my local LAC members unless there is reason for anything more. Something to understand is that Police will pull over a car for 2 reasons, either a genuine 'random', of the car is known to have, or looks suspiciously like it will, do something illegal. Also, something to understand is that when your pulled over, the moment you stop your car, your being tested for their 'attitude test', if you pass this, there is a good chance you will get nothing more than a few words, if you fail, you will get anything and everything that is coming to you, it's that simple. B.

Tools required: Dremel Hot Glue Gun Clear plastic from an office Fluro tube cover (steal one if you have to) Stock Indicator covers How to DIY your own Clear Indicator Cover: -Remove stock indicator cover and take to a new clean work bench. -Use dremel to remove the crappy orange coloured cover of the original light. -Now, with a clean lower bracket, you can measure the clear fluro cover. -Using a dremel on the cover, cut a section to cover exactly the section that you have removed the coloured cover from -Meassure the inside of the clear, and cut this out as well (the first section is for a spacer to make room for the globe). -Once the lower section is made, glue it flat section down to the indicator light. -At this point, test-insert the globe and make sure there is clearance, if not, do this process again to give you more clearence. -If you have clearence, then the next section of clear plastic you dremel-cut will be dimple's down, and will need to meet with the section/sections already glued on the indicator light, then cut with dremel and hot glue-gun this down as well. Allow time to set, then fit the globe, re-install and repeat for the other side. I have seen this done on a Toyota Soarer and it looks the goods, also complimented with Phillips clear/silver look organge indicator globes, as they turn clear/silver when not illuminated. So if you cant find your own clear-cover indicator lights, make your own B.

If they dont give you a print-out, they haven't done it properly!!! I had a Firestone dealer in Deception Bay Qld do the same thing, perform an alignment on my car because it was chewing the inner corners of the tires off premeturely. I had new tires and an alignment done at the same time, drove home from Brisbane to Sydney, and found that I had chews excess wear on the inner edges AGAIN Anyway, took it to a guy in Sydney who I trust 100%, got the alignment done, got a print out of the before and after settings, was told to take the sheet back to the previous aligner and laught at them, and the tires worn evenly ever since. Sometimes you will get people that cant align wheels for their life, it doesn't take much to "tell" someone you can align their wheels, but unless they are willing to provide a printout of the settings, either they haven't done it, or haven't done it properly, and either way, I wouldn't go back there. B.

+1 for all of the above!!! I recently bought my R32 GTR, I payed the good price of $16,800, down from $19,000 asking price. It had very minor cracks in the drilled rotors, a small rust spot that has evidently been painted over under the rear wheel, and 4th gear crunches if you change into it from anything above 80km/h (worn Syncro). The Diff whines like a nagging wife, but for $16k, I expected and appreciate these issues. Compression on mine is 178, 178, 179, 178, 177, 179 so I am happy with the compression, and it holds pressure on the leak-down test, so rings are seated good, and valves also seat when closed, I am VERY happy with engine condition. I also found a Blitx Access modified ECU when pulling things down and checking, but this more than likely means other mods have been done and removed. In otherwords engine has been thrashed at some point. (Having said that, I have seen Dealer-plates on Mazda MPS's getting fuel and lighting tires up out of the driveway, so even brand new cars get thrashed, so nothing suprising there). Rust is something you need to get down and dirty with, and if the car owner allows it to be taken to a workshop, slip the workshop owner a Fifty (and signed waiver form) and go and have a look under the car while it's on a hoist (or get the car on ramps and get onto a crawler with an LED light and inspect under the car). Definate areas of inspection are the wheel wells, door sills and also the bolts in the drive line, such as Diff, axel and drive shaft attachment bolts, if they are corroded on the outside, they are probably (infact, garantueed) to be seized inside, which means if anything goes wrong with those parts it's going to be a f_cking mongrel to get them off (I have a Soarer sitting here with a seized crank bolt, 1 bolt that caused me to need another car). Also check service history (if private) and oil condition, see if it matches up. Smell the oil for fuely smell, chances are a modified motor had larger injectors, and if it was taken back to stock, the injectors in there are whatever they could find that are the right size laying around the workshop, so they might need flushing or cleaning, and this is evident from hard to start motors (seem to lockup as they turn, then suddenly turn over normal and fire), or petrol smell in the oil meaning fuel is leaking into the cylinders when the engine is shut off, and dribbling down into the sump oil. Not only does it foul oil, but shortens the time between servicing and shortens the life of everything the fuel is cleaning oil off of. B.

The orange wire is RPM sensor. Because this timer is a true auto-timer, it senses the amount of time above a certain RPM, and adds time to the count-down accordingly to the way it's been driven. Having said that it can be set up in manual mode, where it is always set for xx number of seconds to shut-down no matter how it's driven. B.

I have a similar problem, but mine's caused by the grounding from the battery to the Chassis to the engine block. I ran 4 guage power from the battery to the amps in the boot, ran speaker wires down the other side of the car, did all the rules, but got the noise. When I placed another 4 guage wire on the negative of the battery, and to the chassis, the noise vanished straight away, so something to check before ripping all your stereo gear out is the basics, lift the bonnet, have a look at the negative wire, especially in the R32's, as mine's only slightly bigger than an 8 guage earth, completely inefficient for anything more than a stock headunit. B.

No pics yet, need to get a decent amount of dry time on Sydney so I can clean, buff, polish, and wax the beast, then get some nice photos of the shiny sparkly GTR Should have pics within a week or so. B.

Hello, Thought I would make my first post a Hello post (for once). I used to have a Nissan skyline RB30E which was a hand me down from the old man, then I moved on to a CA pwoered Nissan 180sx, then broke the rules and went for a 1JZ Toyota Soarer, but now I have come back to the good side and re-joined with a Nissan R32 GTR. I spend most of my time trying to work out how to improve performance and just enjoy my cars, but now I am trying to keep things reliable. I am fairly technical and mechanically minded, so I hope to be able to help out in here where I can, and offer some sound advice, but I dare say I will be using advice from many others until I get up to speed on the GTR's workings Anyways, Off to go read up on my info Brian.