turbo_brian

Jake, the alarm you linked to above wont be insurance approved, it's not using all black wiring. As for Turbo timer compatible, with the right installation the alarm can be installed with the timer and they can both work together, but it's easier to get an alarm system with inbuilt timer, means the alarm wont have immobiliser over-rides, etc. B.

Bob Jane here in Sydney sells them, back in the old days, I bought 2 space saver rims, 2 new space saver tires, and went nuts in my old 180sx in the local industrial area for a bit of a drift-a-thon (Note to all, this was quite a number of yrs ago, and I dont condone unsafe driving on public roads (anymore)). B.

Lol Deren, PS i meant to be checked like that. Hey, I understand where Harry is coming from, when I tell some mechanics I work in IT, drop off the car dressed in a suit and tie, clean all the grease and other shit off me, and go off for a meeting with clients, they sometimes talk to me like I am blone, 18 yrs old, and never lifted the bonnet on a car before. A lot of people dont actually know their cars as well as others do, but they still love them as much. Remember people, we all started in this scene somewhere, for me it was when I was 10, and saw what Nissan's godzilla could do at Bathurst, from there I knew the potential of cars with build quality. For others it's when they decide to bite the bullet and give things a try, and get a Godzilla to see what the hype is for, at least Harry is trying to keep an eye on the car, and care for it. B.

Less road noise from outside, less audio loss from inside, both = far better sound quality

Agreed, I put an R32 into a guard rail at 110km/h, it's LITERALLY suffering panel damage, nothing more. If this car is the result of a 50km/h accident, either it was bullsh1t and you where going faster, or the car is an absolute rust bucket and the rust has weakened it by about 300%, meaning your not selling a car here, your selling a RUST. B.

Did you take the battery off at all while doing this? Reason I ask is it sounds like the ECU went into learning mode for some reason. When this happens, the ECU retards everything and then the sensors all read everything, and start advancing everything, cranking up the power making bits to tune everything back in. B.

The kids will be underaged, and probably (not stereotypical here, but knowing the area) of Aboriginal background, which means the Police will already be on the defensive with them. It sucks, I have an R32 GTR, and I work in Glebe, have to travel to and from work everyday, and leave the car in Glebe all day, but I am lucky I have my own CCTV and I face it straight to the car each day. I know for a fact the car has been sussed out by these friggin punks, I have also seen the mongrels looking through the windows, and I know they are casing it for a theft or at least breakin, and it's only a matter of time. I am lucky at the moment, it's currently at the panel shop getting some work done, but once my alarm system goes in, the internal lock handles will be removed or at least disabled, so it doesn't matter if they pry the window, but then this will pose the other problem of them smashing the window, and seriously who looks at an "open window" of a car. I would LOVE to catch these fockers in the act and take to them with a bat, show them what 'break and enter' means when we enter their heads. The other problem is, all of them are underage, so the most they will get is a caution, and maybe have to pay for damages. The other end of Glebe isn't as bad. B.

Attessa fluid level in the boot. When you open the boot, look to the right, and there will be a panel, behind that is the attessa reseviour. B.

This is what I prefer to do when I have done a Timing belt, if the belt goes all the way around and tension doesn't change at all as I wind, then there is no contact with vavles and other internal parts of the engine, and it's that 1 step closer in the process of the job Also means if I have skipped a tooth or something similar, turning by hand wont do damage compared to what a starter motor can do, as I have seen starter motors have enough torque to lift a car. B.

Hi all, Need the front passenger side and panel mounted indicators for R32 GTR skyline. Fire me a pm or call 0410 548 221. Thanks

GTR seats as well?

HICAS is every performance driver's worst nightmare, and Nissan's only mistake in the sports car world. it's 4ws, and if it comes on at higher speeds, then it's a sign of lower fluid. Do yourself a favour, get a Locking kit, and remove the light from the dash. B.

Completely cold, and only engine, 650cca. Starter from memory was 120a, but need to check my car. B.

Definately a fuse, mor than likely in the kickpanel fusebox under the dash. B.

Terry, some cops DO book for not keeping left unless overtaking, but as with every other law, there is a loop hole to be used (well, something that is 'up to officer descresion') where the officer needs to deem what is 'built up raffic' before not booking people. This is a road rule that NEEDS to be enforced to keep flow of traffic safe. Not using this as an excuse because my first and only accident was pure driver fkup, but if the prick in front had moved from the right hand lane doing 90km/h under the limit, to the left hand lane like the law required of him/her, then I would not have been changing directions when the car spun and went into the guard rail. I bet these Right lane hogs all turn around and say **Nerdy voice** "I have never had an acident" **Nerdy voice off**. I bet the fockers might not have HAD an accident, but how many have they caused from their selfish driving manner. B.

Rhys, 20 minutes, and some simple wiring, and you can stick an intercept switch inline with the fuse, it's simple 2 wires at the right length, and a switch and switch mount from Jaycar for about $10, then you wire it in properly, and your done, ready to drift a few corners, and then go back into 4x4 mode for a safe drive home from the industrial estate. B.

Hojak, it's the other way around.... You Business is our business.. As for cost cutting, never, never, never. Did I say you should NEVER cut costs.... If you want a perfect car, use the perfect tools, if you cant do the work perfectly yourself, get it sent to someone who can, dont only half do it. There is goods and bads with the rising fuel prices, the goods are that there will be heaps of people that simply cant afford to fuel the cars, and then the car goes from everyday luxury drive to and from work, to the shops, etc and changes to a luxury weekend only device with public transport being the everyday way. This is good because this will mean there is mess morons on the road. The Bads are that you will have idiots driing around cutting corners everywhere, not chan ging their oil at the regular intervals because it's to costly, not getting leaks fixed because it's cheaper to top up every now and then rather than spend the extra few hundred, besides they need the few hundred for the fuel. There will also be unregistered, or uninsured cars floating around, and fuel theives on fake plates. This means the quality of the cars goes down, not to mention the safety aspect of some cars, and the one that really scares me is the uninsured cars, they make one mistake and there is you AND them off the road, and them not even being able to afford fuel, let alone fixing your car, and then their own car. I hate saying this, but if you cant afford to fuel the car, you shouldn't own it (BTW, this particular paragraph is not targetted at any single person in this thread, just a general statement). Fuel is (even now) still the cheapest aspect of a motorvehicle, with rego, insurance, servicing, and maintenance being more expensive. You 'can' do most of the basic stuff at home, nice and easy, but dont cut corners please. B.

Ignore what Todd and some others have said, the sticker is informing you WHEN it needs to be changed, NOT that it has been changed. With regards to Skylines and other imports, you can not determine when or if the belt has been changed, and sometimes even taking the timing belt cover off and checking wont give you an indication of age. Play it safe, if you dont think it's been changed, GET it changed, the belt it's self (for a Nissan CA anyway) is something like $27. For a $3k+ rebuild, dont risk the timing belt. Also, some places have different ways of notifying ysers of the change, either by removing the sticker, or placing a new sticker on informing of the change, my CA powered 180sx, the wanker that did the change simply removed the sticker and scratched a 1 in the timing belt cover to say it was changed once. B.

Corrosion, this is why I prefer to apply some clearcoat over the earthing cable when I ground the Amp, so that corrosion isn't going to be problem. It will either be corrosion or a loose wire. B.

You have got to be kidding me right?? Every single time I try and drive down the Gateway Arterial, or Bruce Highway, no mtter what time of the day or night, there is always morons doing 80km/h in the left lane, and some flog next time him keeping up in the roght hand lane, and thus blocking off the friggin highway. As for Sydney struggling, at times (Particularly the weekend) you get a similar issue, idiots istting in the right hand lane causing problems. I tend to find it's all sorts of people that do this, Taxis, vans, utes, sports cars, old people, young people, infact pretty much the only ones that done sit in the right hand lane are Learners, but if it's a highway, they are not going fast enough to go around someone anyway. Now, I had a Honda Accord Euro with an old bastard on the M2 a few weeks ago, wouldn't move over, and was doing 80 in the 100 zone. It had been raining, the roads where wet, but the rain had stopped. I followed this guy about 50 - 100 meters behind, he wouldn't move over, so I flashed the lights at him a couple of times, no good the prick still just sat there. Eventually I decided I will change back to the left lane to keep witht he road rules of "KEEP LEFT UNLESS OVERTAKING", that and the left lane was pasing this prick. As I changed lanes, the rear wheel managed to wedge into a pot-hole, as it did, the car spun, I accelerated to power out of the slide, but no good. End result, the entire left hand side of my GTR pounded the guard rail on the M2, and at the time I was doing roughly 90+km/h. Why did this happen, because I was changing my lanes due to someone who was in breach of the NSW road rules, so although they where not the direct cause of the accident, they WHERE the cause. I was fine, passenger was fine, and car's only sustained panel damage, so it's in the workshop with Jerry at Vision Smash repairs, almost repaired. So in a nutshell, people who cant KEEP THE f**k LEFT UNLESS OVERTAKING really give me the shits!!! B.

With 2 posts, you have not contributed enough to the general SAU community to be able to use buy/sell section, please dont litter the rest of the forum with rubbish, go and make some contributing posts and then use the correct sections. As for Power to weight and on topic stuff, wasn't Vic law something like 100kw to 1 tonne, someone confirm?? B.

Paragraphing and Punctuation??

Try for larger earth than power (from the battery anyway, because battery has to earth the same guage amp earth PLUS the car's other electricals). How long is the Ground wire from the Amp to the grounding point, also what is the grounding point? Golden rule with Amp grounding is to ground to the chassis, such as a strut tower or belt buckle, and to keep the Ground run from the amp as short as possible, and to under 1 meter in length. The typical rules for car audio are: -Run RCA leadsmon Side A of the car, Power, remote, etc to Side B of the car. -Upgrade Battery ground lead to at least 1 guage larger than your amp grounding wire (to cater for amp(s) and all other electrical devices -Keep Grounding wire as short as possible, and try to keep it less than 1 meter long -Mount to STRONG chassis point, suck as strut tower ot Belt buckle section -Make sure Grounding point is sanded back to pure exposed metal, and that the grounding points have solid or strong contact, no good grounding with deteriorated loop connector that has poor connection) (I also like to spray the area with clearcoat laqure when connected to stop oxygen getting to the exposed/sanded back metal) -Fuse power cable from battery with the right amp/voltage fuse (or it will be the weak point for power delivery). -Ground headunit to Strong grounding point on the car (if grounding of headunit and amp creat different voltage potentials, you WILL get ground looping, and alternator whine when the engine is going). Hope these steps help you out somewhat. Good luck, fighting engine whine SUCKS. B.

If they want to get in, they wont 'pick the lock'. The only thing Something like Solex security locks protect against is either someone picking the lock, or someone happens to have a similar working key. As mentioned, a paging alarm or GSM alarm system is the best option, but dont set it too sensitive, as it will always be going off, also think about Microwave sensor inside the car, usually used only convertables, it will sense movement inside the cabin, such as glass breaking, or an arm reaching into the car. Also look into glass break sensors, tilt sensors, and voltage tamper sensor. Sadly, every car I have had in my current location (except my Skyline GTR) has been attempted to be broken into, the list and hows: Mazda 626: Quite exotic, they used a foot-long drill, drilled up from under the engine bay trough the battery and left it go. I came out the next morning and the battery was dead flat, there was scratches and marks on the drivers door, but thankfully no entry. Cost me a battery, and I also had a steel plate cut to size and placed under the battery to protect the new battery from the same fate. Nissan 180sx: This was quite sad, they first went for the good old Slim Jim method, failed, went to dig the lock out of the door causing massive amounts of damage, stuffing the door skin completely, and still not succeeding, so they went and jammed a screwdriver into the window, pry'd the window open, reached in and popped the lock. They got into the car, stole the 2 day old Sony headunit, popped the boot, stole my laptop, tried to use the wheel brace and steal the wheels, but the socket set to get the nuts off wasn't in the car. Toyota Soarer: This was the most effortless, they put a brick through the window, reached in and stole my GPS (my fault, I left it in the car). Ways to avoid break-ins, dont leave the face on the stereo, dont have a flashy you-beat sound system or stickers advertising possible sound system or expensive electronics, have tinted windows (cant see stuff, dont want it), have a car alarm with security light, have alarm sticker on each front door to advertise alarm, dont park in dark quiet areas or train stations, try to park near the entrance at shopping centres, always lock the steering lock (wont help break ins, but make it hard to tow/move/steal). Cheers, B.

I installed an Optima Yellow-top into my R32 GTR, MUCH better than many other batteries I have tried, and it's a dry-cell battery as well, so it can be mounted in any angle. Also, it's smaller than the stock battery, but has spacers to give the base 1.5 inches lift to bring it back to the normal height and size. 650 CCA from the battery, and I have had mine on for hours on end with the stereo pumping, gone to crank it, and it's like I had just shut it off to refuel, cranks without an issue. B.