turbo_brian

Defiantely sound advise, it's also defectable to route engine bay fluids into the cabin, let alone the potential for failure. I will be investing in an electronic oil pressure gauge shortly, will be using the mechanical gauge ONLY to confirm the current situation, to make sure my engine is not going to let go at some stage. B.

ok guys, another 32 with fluctuating oil pressure readings from the guage. Been doing some reading and searching on here, and the majority feel is the bloody pressure sender, and seems to be a VERY common fault. Anyway, here is my plite. Have my lovely R32 GTR, did an oil change, and a few days later, I have noticed that sometimes (not all the time) the oil pressure gauge seems to show the pressure as being close to (but not quite) zero. The oil used in the change was Mobil 1 SuperSyn (not sure of the weights, but will check), not sure if it might be too thin for the engine, causing it to have slightly lower pressure to normal. I also suspect the oil pressure sender, as it's probably the stock original unit, does the R31 RB30E unit fit as a direct replacement, because I have a new sender on my RB30 which is sitting gathering dust unregistered, and I can rake parts from that if needed. I also know the Oil pump was replaced about 10,000kms ago in this car for a new unit with sleeve, so I am shy-ing away from the oil pump being a problem at this stage. Car is getting a mechanical oil pressure gauge to confirm the pressures today, but it still chill's me to see oil pressure drop low on such a motor. Anyway, main question is will the RB30E oil pressure sender fit as a replacement to the R32 RB26DETT unit, or should I scrap the stock and shove an aftermarket unit in instead? Thanks in advance and Merry xmas all. B.

I have had everything aligned, rear toe and front toe have been adjusted, and I am planning on getting rid of the HICAS as well, but wasn't sure if there was anything else it could be.... There is a list of minor issues I am pestering the repairer about in regards to his work, and this is one of them, as the never had issues prior to repair, but does after the repair. Due to the issue being whent he car's weight load is pushed to the left side (sweeping right hand turns), I believe it's something damaged from the accident. I will investigate further and see what I can find. Thanks guys, B.

Ok, I have a strange one, not sure if anyone will know the answer for, but before I go tearing stuff out, and hacking in the car, I thought I would see what others think on here... I have a 93 model R32 GTR Skyline, great car, is serving me very well. A while ago, had a little accident in her, no biggy, but basically put the entire left hand side into a wall, went steerings arms, control arms, panels, etc. Got it back 2 weeks ago from the repairer, and she has been driving nice, had a wheel alignment and it's as straight as a dye. Anyway, until the weekend, I used it to putter around the city. The issue: I have found that when I am on the highway, pushing through a nice open wide sweeping corner right, the rear left feels like it drops in height and the entire back of the car seems to shift about half - 1 foot sideways as you sweep through the corner. Quite dis-concerning as it happens, it feels like the back of the car is sliding (This is for sweeping right hand corners, weight transfer to the rear left). If I pull the same maneuver in a sweeping left hand corner, there is no issues at all, it holds hard and fast, and power's through terrific. Now, if I apply power as I am going through the sweeping right hand corner, the car seems to stay fairly stable feeling, but if I go to change gears, it gets all out of shape and wobbly again. Not sure if it's something to do with damaged HICAS, or if something is not bolted in right, but I dont have this issue at low speeds, only seems to occur above 50km/h. Anyone got any ideas before I go pulling the rear of the car apart tonight? Thanks, Brian.

They are grouped nicely on the R32 head unit, there is 8 wires grouped together which are the speakers, and then 4 wires grouped which are constant, ACC, ground and illumination. Grab a multi-meter (should have one before attempting anything electrical), and with the key out of the ignition, test each wire, one of them will be 12V+ (This is your cosntant, matches to the YELLOW wire of the new headunit). Switch the ignition to ACC, re-check and there will be 2 x 12v+, the 2nd will be your ACC activation wire, this matches to the RED of your aftermarket headunit. Now flick the headlights to park, and re-measure and you will have 3 x 12v+, the 3rd wire will be your illumination wire, this isn't always on aftermarket headunits, but if it is, it will be marked with ILL+, and this is what it goes to. With grounding, run a new lead to a clean grounding point in the car, there is plenty of grounding areas in the R32 dash to ground off to, but sand back and make sure you have a clean contact. For the speakers, they should be easy enough to ID the pairs, then it's a matter of temp connecting the pairs to 1 speaker output from the headunit to ID which speaker it is, then tag and mark them, and hook them up as per the colour/wiring diagram of your aftermarket headunit. Good Luck B.

Hey Risking, can you PM me your number again, if I had it today, I would have been able to get some parts from you, but couldn't find the number... Cheers mate. Brian.

Open boot, remove the liner cover on the right hand side, check the fluid level inside the unit that's in the boot. Once you have done that, search on here for ATTESSA and follow the diag procedure for the ATTESSA kit, this should tell you what is going on. B.

check oil pressure, hopefully it's not an oil issue... B.

There should be a little gauge on the dash above your fuel gauge, this shows torque split via ATTESSA. If you accelerate, this should go up and down depending on the power being pushed down, if this is not happening, ATTESSA is disengaged, and the fuse and link will need to be checked. B.

Ask any VL driver, flutter is SIK BRO!!! Flutter it the sound made by air pressure that does not release when you close off the throttle body (usually because of a lack of BOV). The sound is the air rushing back from the throttle to the blades of the turbo, and the air gets chopped up. There IS pressure on this, and it does cause undue pressures on the turbocharger blades, possibly causing minor damage, but my personal thoughts are that unless there is already issues with the turbocharger(s) or the units are old, you shouldn't have much trouble. B.

When I bought my car, I had a clause on there, which was I can return the car if my mechanics testing showed the engine was not in good condition. Did a dry compression test: 1 - 176, 2 - 175, 3 - 177, 4 - 176 , 5 - 177, 6 - 176 Did a wet compression test: 1 - 177, 2 - 177, 3 - 176, 4 - 177, 5 - 178, 6 - 178 The minimal difference in figures means that it was great compression to start with, and after using some oil to further seal the rings, the figures where almost the same (there is a variance in or 3 - 5 psi in the gauge I used). Considering the figures where almost identical, it means there is no pressure loss on the rings, meaning any pressure loss is in the valves. a Leak-down test revealed the pistons hold very good pressure, meaning the valves are not loosing pressure, and the engine is in good condition. Did a radiator pressure test as well, revealed no issues, did an intake pressure test, no boost leaks or other leaks,so I rang the previous owner and told him to go nuts with the money, I wasn't disappointed with the tests at all. I later found out from a relative of the previous owner that the engine had blown, and was completely rebuilt from the ground up, forged pistons, rods, balanced crank, all the oil mods to the head, sump baffles, N1 turbochargers, etc. The works has been put into that engine to make it bullet-proof (as bullet proof as an RB26 will get), but then he had to sell for family reasons. If you get a good RB engine, and you let them warm up before revving them and thrashing them, keep good oil to them, and dont rev them over 7,000rpm (unopened), the engine should be good for a lengthy life. It's the other bits you need to worry about, gearbox, diff, suspension, rust through the body, but someone who knows cars will be able to pick if they have been in an accident, or if they are riddled with car-cancer. My only advise: Dont fall in love with a car while looking, treat them all as damaged stock until you find the perfect one, and once you have purchased it, you can fall in love. (I fell in love with a 180sx yrs ago, wanted it no matter what so I wasn't maticulous in checking it out. Later found a 1 inch rust spot, took the screwdriver to it to brake all the rust out before welding a plate to the car, and the hole was 1 inch, but the rust through the panel was 1 foot 2 inches, it was HUGE!!!). B.

Lol, I had to help a friend rebuild the heads on his LS1 a few months ago, did a simple valve change, and it all went down hill when a stupid bolt snapped, ended up landing us with 2 new heads, and 2 days to get the old heads off, new heads on, and set everything up properly... on a Tuesday and Wednesday night, we had removedthe old heads, cleaned everything spotless, prepped the new heads, mounted, and fitted the heads, rods, rockers, etc. We still had the issue of 1 missing bolt on the rocker cover, but nothing some bubble gum didn't fix until we got the bolt. Needless to say, LS1 engines are much easier to work on that RB engines, when you consider they dont have a timing belt because they are old-school push-rod, made life bloody easy, spray lubricant on the rods and through them, stick them into the holes, put the rockers on,and crank the engine by hand to make sure everything moves freely. Heads off, heads on, new push rods, new rockers, all in 2 nights, and done by a couple of computer nerds. B.

Wow, nice work by Johnny there, any other customer 'testimonials'??? As for Hills Motorsports, I have my own issues with them, they supply parts to a repairer I am using and they are SLOW AS F*CK, and Mark tells me "It will be there Monday morning", then Thursday a week after, it is finally being packed in the car and taken over. I hate arseholes lying straight to me, if it's not going to happen, tell me and I wont have a problem, but if you say it's going to happen, make it happen. Anyway, best of luck with the GTR, and I would be more than interested in other genuine testimonials for this 'cheap mechanical work' as well. B.

Hmmm, lets look at this in real terms here: Thief gets into car, goes "hmm, dont want to damage anything" so he pulls out his tool kit, gently removes the steering wheel covers, uses a dremel to score a screwdriver mark in the bolts, and then gentle remove the bolts to get the ignition barrel out, and release the locking pin. OR Theif gets into car, uses barrel breaker to pop the lock out, which disables the locking pin anyway, then uses any flat object (key, screwdriver, etc) to turn the ignition over, start the car and vanish. Seriously here, which is the theif going to do??? The only time a thief would even contemplate gently removing the barrel is if they wanted the lcoking mechanism in prestine condition for a re-sale (if they where cars on a hit-list), and they would simply barrel-break the thing anyway, and repair the lock at a hidden location before presenting the car for sale (in a new country for instance). Do you think a theif will sit there for 30 minutes in a car to be gentle while stealing it, or would they smash the barrel out in 5 - 10 seconds with a barrel breaker and turn the ignition over and drive off?? Common sense son.

I have an R32 that's not doing much, if I but you would need to visit Artarmon to get a coilpack from it, and leave your first born daughter as a deposit

It's remapped, and the chip with the hand-written letters and numbers is the ID for that chip. If you where ever lucky enough to find out who chipped it, you could give them this number, and they can pull the records up for the information on the chip. Otherwise, you will need the right software, and an EEPROM reader/writer to get into the chip. I have a nice Blitz enhanced ECU, assists the engine to push 200kw at the rubbers, which is awesome, love the feel. B.

They can eiher be drilled out, or ise a thin drill, place 2 small holes at the ends opposite each other, and use a fork-type screw piece to extract. Either way, once they are in, the heads snap off and they are next to impossible to remove, and once removed, they can not be re-used. B. EDIT: Could also try using a dremel to cut a | into the top, then use a flat bladded screw driver to get it out. Again, once it's out, it's finished.

http://www.fhrxstudios.com/ Top bloke, one of the best you can get

Qld law required the display of L and P-plates, they also now have restrictions on Turbocharged and V8 powered cars for provisional licence holders, but if your licence was issued prior to the introduction of these new laws, you hold an automatic exemption to these laws, but if you loose your licence, you will loose this exemption when you get your licence back. B.

Your licence restrictions carry with you from state to state. Put it this way, You learn to drive in State A, you are taught by that state's guidelines, and are therefore qualified to drive to a set guideline, which is issued to you via restrictions on your licence for that state. The training in State A might be far superior to any other State in Country XYZ, so therefore, due to much better teaching methods, better driver training, they allow their P-platers to drive Turbocharged cars (but still restrict V8's). If a P-plate driver from that state chooses to go on a road trip over to State C, they must obey the road laws set by State C for the roads in State C, but they are still goverened restriction wise, by their licence in State A, because of their superior driver training. Likewise, if a P-plate Driver from State C desides to go visit his cousin in State A, he can not jump in and drive his cousin's Nissan GTR, because his licence restrictions state no turbocharged, no V8. This is because State C's driver training is performed by a bunch of camel riding monkeys that found their licence in a cornflake's packet, so they play it safe and restrict the driver's vehicle power. If you have licence restrictions that limit you to 80km/h, that is your maximum speed all over Australia, even NT with the 130km/h highways (yep, 130km/h now, not unlimited speed limit). If your allowed to drive a turbocharged car on your licence, you can drive a turbocharged car in EVERY state of Australia. B.

depending on the amount of water depends on the tire requirement, but a decent set of tires at the right speed will pump majority of the water away. Big problem here is that people dont realise the type of tire isn't up to the task, and then find out the hard way the car is floating, not driving. I had a similar issue in my 32GTR, but for this issue, the ATTESSA system because evil, because there was enough time for the back to tilt to a 45 degree angle before the ATTESSA kicked in, launching me in that general direction. The simple fact is slow the f**k down in the wet, the driving conditions are very much different. B.

R&D in socks: Fabric type, dye type, what stitch is strong, yet gives a nice stretching feeling, which one breathes so that you dont end up with sweating feat, shall I go on??? There is R&D in everything from bottled water to the worlds most expensive cars. Yes, Addidas are over priced, but this is a different issue, the issue of over-capitalising on the product. 2 issues here, counterfiet product, which is stolen from the original maker, sold at a lesser price because A) the people haven't invested in the different ways in making it, and B) the people selling it are happy to profit $1, where as the makers want to get their developement money back faster, and decide $10 profit is better. This is the same as Hybrid intercoolers, that are a copy of other brands, they have copied the design of the cooler from someone who has researched the benifits of certain materials, certain fin angling, structure, gaps between the fins, the effects of the design in 10, 20, 30, 60, 100km/h winds, strength and regidity against stone chips, placement of inbound and oubound air flow, etc. Someone has spend hundreds of thousands in the research and benifits, and someone else has come along, bought 1, and copied it. B.

1 big problem, the manufacturers turn around and R&D the product, set the guidelines up, create the proto-types, and set forward a process to create these items. Then, for cost saving, they send all the designs to China, Taiwan to get the cheap labour to create the actual product. This is wonderful, because the Chinese create the genuine article, then they create a few more on the side and sell these as something very slightly different, badge it as a no-name, a copy, and sell it for a fraction of the price. What the counterfiet people do is sell it with just enough mark-up that they are covering the costs of the materials, and wages plus a fraction of profit. (they dont need to cover the costs of manufacturing equipment, because the companies with the genuine article did that). Sucks, people like APEXI, and other places that have placed massive R&D into products go bust because these other people copy their shit and push it out at 1/4 the price. B.

You must obide by the laws of the state you are driving in, but you may not excede the restrictions on your issued licence (confused yet?) Ok, If your issued a licence in S.A, you have a certain type of car restriction, such as (example only here) 100kw/tonne GVM of the car you wish to drive. You also have speed restrictions, say 90km/h maximum, and because your half blind, you MUST wear glasses while driving, because this is what your state's licences requires of you. Now, you drive into another state (Queensland), you still have the restrictions issued with your licence, such as the 100kw/tonne GVM, and the 90km/h speed restriction, and you still need your 4-eyes to drive. If you pick up a turbocharged car to purchase and drive home, as long as it's within the restrictions of your licence, you may drive this vehicle, because the licence depicts the restrictions set upon you as a driver, so although P-plater drivers are banned from driving V8 and Turbocharged cars in Victoria, NSW and Qld, because your licence was issued in SA, you can drive this car. Now for the rules. Not sure, so again this is example only sh*t!! If S.A allows you to drive your car on P-plates as long as your under the 0.02 BAC, this is fine for S.A, as this is what the state-issued law is for this region. If you drive in Qld, and the P-plater law for the state says you are not to have ANY alcohol while driving, you MUST obey this law in Qld. Any example of this effecting me was on the weekend, I drive the State Emergency Service trucks here in NSW, when we need to close a road off, we flick the red and blue's on, set up cones, switch on the road closed sign, then our team sets about the task of duties on the road (such as clear a fallen tree). Now, last weekend, myself and a team traveled to Qld to assist with their SES teams. First thing we where instructed was because we where in Qld, and because we had to obey the state's traffic laws, we where NOT permitted the use of blue flashing lights on the vehicle, if we had to close a road, we needed to use our hazard lights and traffic cones, no red and blues, or we would be issued a traffic infringement for their use. So in very short terms: You must obey the state's traffic laws You must not exceed your issued licence's restrictions. B.

Solder the cables and also shrink-wrap them (shrink wrap can be found at DSE for about $2 a tube). I find shrink wrap the best, because it doesn't tighten down hard core onto the solder job, it shrinks until it makes contact with everything, therefore is you have slight spikey bits from an ammeture solder job, the spikes wont break through the insulation and become exposed points. I find that if you wrap in only electrical tape, there is 90% change of a sharp bit finding it's way though the tape and becoming a contact point, and this is what causes problems later on in the install. Some headunits also have 2 remote wires, 1 is for the Amplifier, the other for the power antenna, because the power antenna is only used when you switch the radio on, otherwise if you use CD's, it stays down. B.