turbo_brian

Hi Guys, Have a spare R32 GTR rear bar in Gun metal grey, left over from some repairs 6 months ago, and it's taking up room. Looking at $300 for the bar, but reasonable offers are welcome as well. Prefer pickup, located in the Chatswood area in Sydney. Cheers, Brian.

Offer still stands... Let me know

plugged in the hazard switch for the indicators? remove cluster, check all wiring, and re-install it. B.

$50 for the grill BTW, congrats on the bonnet sale, I payed $300 for my bonnet last year, GTR bonnet with no marks or impefections at all, but I have heard prices have gone up since then due to dollar, and supply and demand. B.

Depends on what your trying to do. On a previous car I had, I manipulated the automatic gearbox lock-out solenoid so that you had to push a hidden button to get it out of Park, as an added security measure for the vehicle. This was on a Toyota Soarer, and worked nicely, but required modifications for this particular car which had a nice red over-ride button for the lock-out switch to enable over-ride of the lock solenoid in the event of electrical failure. B.

The Consult is a serial device, the USB connector is a USB to serial interface. You need to find out what chip-set the USB to Serial is, and then google it for the drivers for that chipset. B.

I used a normal socket on a Toyota Soarer air bag, it had strange looking bolts, but they seemed to fit a 10mm socket. EDIT: Dont forget to disconnect the battery. B.

Price shipped to Artarmon Sydney? B.

Hi, What type of box is it, push or pull-type? I am interested in the Gearbox, and if the other guy wants the transfer, this is cool to, we can work something out about splitting them. Let me know. Thanks. B.

Condition of GTR Gearbox (not noisey, no syncro issues with any of the gears??) Push type or Pull type? Thanks. B.

ohh yeah, push-type box. Thanks, B.

Just after a gearbox, needs to be in half decent working order, no noise. SMS me if you have one or know where I can get one, or post here. 0410548221. Cheers, Brian.

Umm, I usually go a little further, I dont worry about the bolt on the block until it's bleed time, as the water still flows out of the block if you take the radiator cap off. Dont forget that there is coolant in the heater pipes, so you need to flush this as well. Last flush I did, I pulled the lower plug, shoved a hose in the top of the radiator, started the water pouring, then started the engine, turned the heater to maximum, and left both going for 30 minutes. As soon as the heater was on, the water flowing out of the radiator changed from clear to green again, so it opened the heater pipes and flushed the heater as well. After 30 minutes, I let the normal water flow out, replaced the lower bung, and filled the system with coolant, bled the system and re-capped the radiator. I also flushed, emptied and filled the overflow with fresh coolant, because the radiator sometimes drinks from the overflow as well. Took the car for a drive with the heater on maximum, until it started to blow warm air into the car, then parked the car back at home and left it sit. Next morning, I cracked the top screw, refilled the coolant, until it came out the screw, and then locked the screw off and she is all done. Dont do half a job and change the coolant in the block and radiator, do the full job change the coolant in the heater pipes as well. B.

or rebuild time, cheaper and still effective... B.

Sorry to bring up a realy really old thread, but where do you get the rebuild kits from, might be looking at a rebuild soon, fix 4th gear and a few other issues B.

cooked the clutch

Ok, car started to make a strange noise, not a bearing grinding noise like a big end, but a constant rubbing noise. When driving, it sounds like the whining you hear with the european super-touring cars (if you have heard it), where th whine gets higher and higher pitched as you get faster and faster. When idling, it's loud enough to distinguise, but when you clutch in, the noise vanishes and you hear the yummy rumble of the Godzilla motor. I did a gearbox flush prior to the noise becoming LOUD (note: the noise was there before the flush) and there was no sign of anything out of the ordinary, no large quantities of metal filings (a small amount), and the oil was actually quite clean and consitant. I am thinking it's a thrust beaing that's given up, and it's time to upgrade the clutch and fit a new thrusty, but want other people's opinions before I bark my orders to the mechanic. Car is an October 91 R32 GTR Skyline, 100,003kms on the clock, engine previously rebuilt, clutch replaced at some stage, but unsure when. Thanks in advance people. B.

Is it ever hard to crank over in the morning after sitting overnight? As in, it cranks, suddenly slows, then fires and starts up? I had same issue in a CA powered 180sx, it turned out to be leaking fuel injectors. I would drive the car around like normal, no issues. Park the car overnight, but becaue injectors where dirty and stuck open, the pressure left in the fuel line would force some of the fuel out through the injectors, and into the clinder caverty. Overnight, the fuel was make it's way past my worn rings, and eventually dribble into the sump, mix with the oil, and thin out my oil. I had the injectors removed and tested, and they where horrbily dirty, boardering on replacement, but had them vigorously cleaned, re-tested, and after they where confirmed working alright, had them refitted. Car drove MUCH better, was punchier on acceleration, but went from using 1 tank of fuel within 270kms to using 1 tank of fuel every 400kms. B.

Guys, I will give you a story of a professional Hit. Guy owns a 2006 model Mazda 6 MPS turbo AWD. we do a few mods to it, drives great, pushes 170kw at all 4 wheels (stock is 127kw). We run into a flywheel problem, and literally shatter the clutch on the flywheel, tow it off to Mazda for a warranty job, remove the boost controller solenoid and drop majority of the tinkering bits to stock prior). Mazda fix the clutch, drive it, and discover the crank is bent, so we get a complete engine build done under warranty. 6 weeks later, engine is rebuilt, car is back to owner, and ready for run-in period of 1,000kms. Owner takes 2 weeks, runs up 980kms and takes it to Mazda. They go over it, re-tighten everything, perform the full service and the owner picks his car up on the Wednesday from the dealer all done. Friday comes around, and owner is awoken at 4am to the sound of a thud, goes out the front to investigate where he sees his car reverse onto the road and speed off. Goes to check, no glass, no damage from the car left on the ground, but the moron stealing the car missed reverse and rolled into his garage door bending it quite harshly. Police come, take prints, check around nothing left on scene as evidence. I come around that night with a friend, and we hit the streets looking for the car, as police suggest it could be involved in ATM hits, or casing for ATMs (this was back when ATM hits where a nightly occurance). We find nothing, but head out Saturday night to check again. We had a few sneaky ways of spotting his car from others, LED front parkers with the left blinking (figuring thieves are not going to notice it, nor pull the car apart and repair it, and the different MPS wheels from an MPS3 that where fitted, and we doubted the thieves would replace the wheels either). We stumbled across some dumb morons rebirthing VL Commodores, had a chat to them about our problem, and offered to give them $1,000 cash if they could help us get the car back, but they where no help, wished us luck, and we both moved on. Come Monday morning, police call my mate, tell him he needs to head to this address to make positive ID of what is potentially his car. They say it wont be going anywhere, so take our time getting there, no point rushing from work. We both head over that night at 9pm, and find 3 segments of chassis. The first segment is the dash section, no front, just a cut from 10cm infront of the firewall, and 30cm back from the pedals. No steering wheel, no dash components (a/c, stereo, etc all gone). 2nd and 3rd section of the car was the rear of the car, cut in half down the middle, no seats, no carpet, no nothing, just the bear metal cut in half. On the sectons left, there was 3 points where the chassis number was stamped for ID, but the theives knew all 3 and had cut them out, They cut the chassis number on the firewall, under driver seat, and under the rear parcel tray on the bottom, so they knew what they where doing with this moel vehicle. More food for thought, the ignition barrel was intact on the vehicle, as was the steering lock, this vehicle uses laser-precise cut keys, and massive ECU embedded security. Something else to mull over, this was the FIRST Mada 6 MPS stolen in NSW, and the 2nd MPS 6 stolen Australia wide, so underground knowledge of the car's security weaknesses, and locations of ID would have been very weak, the car was stolen by someone, or a group of people that knew these cars inside out, and had access to the vehicle prior to do whatever they required for access when they needed it. Now onto security... Installation of any alarm is the key to success, cutting the ignition wires at the barrel and jumping your own wires into it is doing nothing but showing a potential hot-wire which wires are more than likely the ones he needs to tamper with. Installing the alarm model next to the ECU is quite funny as well, because if it's a GPS tracker, the theife has found it as soon as he/she has lifted the carpet, and now has 25 seconds to disable it before it makes the phone call. Device needs to be installed in an area secured from immediate access, somewhere that takes effort to get to. Relays that cut the fuel system, and power to other areas are fine, but dont wack then on a nice bracket mounted on the firewall, when a theif looks for the alarm system relays, they will see the pretty shiney new relays, as opposed to the dirty old-looking stock relays, and they now have a way to over-ride the relay and turn the fuel pump back on. Also, dont stick the relays next to the ECU and/or alarm system, this is the same issue. I have seen hack-jobs where the installer has gone to the trouble of removing the dash, mounting the Alarm system ECU under the middle of the dash, enclosing it into a stock-looking A/C piping box, ducting the cables from the Alarm system, through to the ECU, but then snipping the ECU wires about 10cm off the car's ECU, so anyone with half a brain can see the intercepted ECU wires and snip and tuck them back to normal, fire up and drive off. And as Chris has said, he wired in an electric fence relay to his car, worked a charm but got him in the shizzle, I also did this not that long ago (sub-5 yrs), wired an electronic fence to an inverter, to a spare battery and wired in my wiper blades when I was having daily issues with the local parking officers, needless to say I got booked the day I wired it in, but after that, I had the police calling me and asking me if I could return to my vehicle for a chat. First thing they asked was for me to lift my wiper and retrieve the parking fine (not slide it out, but lift the blade) to which I refused. At that point they said it would be advisable for me to disable the device, and then return to the station for a voluntary chat with them..... I was given a warning for this, and threatened with assault charges and all sorts of other charges for attempted assault, malicious bodily damage, etc, but I was friggin lucky the parking officer I electricuted decided not to press charges. Hope some of the info above is useful for you all. B. NOTE: I am not going into what security items I use, needless to say I dont want research done against my car...

Ok guys, to clear a few things here. The 'leaking pipe' was a crack in the pipe, it was pissing fluid, it wasn't a matter of that pipe being there all the time and only leaking because it was hot, the pipe GAVE WAY, meaning at that point it was a sudden fail point. As for radiator, it's already aftermarket alloy, due to a previous issue with a repairer not knowing what they where doing, and damaging the mounting point for the hose (as mentioned in the original post, this was the first point at which high temperature days caused me any sort of problem). Radiator is BRAND NEW, not 2nd hand garbage. As for front mount, please read "stock R32 GTR", so it has the stock GTR front mount on it, it has also been removed and cleaned to remove any bugs, etc. Head gasket is fine, never had a problem with headgasket, and coolant has never leaked or been lost anywhere (other than when the top pipe gave way and started spraying like a mofo), otherwise coolant levels have remained perfect and unchanged for months. Hopefully with this further information it will help understand the situation more. Cheers, Brian.

Chucking the Thermostat was a thought, it was either chucking it, or replacing with new, which I have sitting with me already. Do note, it has not run hot for temperatures other over 35 degrees, and usually city driving where the air is not exactly getting circulated either, so I wasn't suprised it got rather warm, it is a 20 yr old car after all. I had the cooling system checked, holds pressure, has no leaks or rust, it's just an old car that doesn't like extremely warm temperature. B.

As the title says, I am exploring the opportunity of removing the thermostat from the engine. Not sure if it's the reason I have had problems, but I have now had to 37+ degree days cause me issues. 1st, the heat on the car started to rise very slightly, and during turbo timing down, the radiator hose blew off. I later found that the pipe that the hose was connecting to had broken due to being too tight, and as the pressure rose, the mount let go, so technically not because of heat, but poor mechanical workmanship. 2nd, Just recently was after getting some work done on the suspension on Saturday, Car was given a bit of a thumping during the testing out, and then I drove home. It was about 38 - 39 degrees, water temp went up to around the 3/4 mark, and the engine oil temp to the halfway mark, which is as hot as it's ever been. Drove it like a baby, got home, and there was 10 seconds timing on the auto-timer, so I let it time down while I sat with the car to watch the temps. No issues, car shut down normal, so I locked up went inside. 3 minutes later, came out, and there was steam blowing under the bonnet, coolant pouring everywhere, and after leaving it to do it's thing and cool off, found a crack in the top radiator hose, where it had split. I know engine coolant gets hotter immediately after shut-down, due to the water flow stopping, and the water just sitting on the block in a stationary position, and thus pressure in the cooling system rising. Anyway, my old man, being from the old-school, has told me pissing off the thermostat and giving the water a chance to flow completely unrestricted is the way to go, then I wont have issues like this (although, 40-ish degree days are kinda obviously going to cause issues on cars like these). My thoughts are that pulling the thermostate out is not going to effect my running temp, and drivability during warm operation, but will take much longer for the car to actually get up to running temperature, which I guess is my concern. I am about to do yet another re-flush of the cooling system, and put in yet another load of brand new, 'heavy duty extreame condition' coolant, but just wondering if anyone else has removed the thermostat, and what benifits or side effects have occured. If I am flushing the entire system, I rather do everything at once, so new coolant pipes all around, remove/replace the thermostat, clean and flush in 1 go, so that I am not changing coolant now, and then having to stuff around and re-bleed the system in few days if I remove the thermostat, etc. B.

Got picks of this??? B.

Chris, what about Soarer double DIN units (non EMV)??? B.

He said not the head GASKET, nothing about the head it's self. Could be possible, but dont know... B.