turbo_brian

I am running a stock (as far as I know) box in my 32gtr, 4th gear syncro is foocked, but nothing double-clutching wont solve, but she is running nice. I push 200.5kw at all 4, but driven with respect, the stock box should be good for a lot more. B.

Nick, Firstly, congrats on the wedding!! I have a mint silver R32 GTR, perfect paint, no dents, no issues, run's beautiful. 200Kw at the rubbers, only has modded exhaust, nothing flashy. Let me know if this is something you might be interested in. B.

Wow, that damage looks the same as friend's car when he it a gaurd rail. Pefect height, same dual indentations as well. My friend came drifting around a corner, realised he cooked it, slammed on the brakes, and went into the guard rail. He was lucky he had hitt he brakes to stop, if he had kept drifting into the rail, the end of the rail would have ripped his rear bar, lights, etc off the car as well. Wonder how the car didn't loose it's bumper, there is a destinctive mark showing the part where it appears to have stopped. BTW, I am not calling BS to your claim for where the damage coming from, just commenting on how remarkable the hieghts are the same, the marks are almost identical, and the fold just before the rear looks like a stopping point, it's uncanny. Sorry to hear about it as well man, BTW Jerry at Vision Smash worked on my R32, needed front and rear quarter, and he did a top job, but got a little stuffed around from his supplier in regards to parts, but get him to quote on it and see what he can do. B.

Re-read my direct quote from the original poster, particularly the part on the first line where it says "I jump started the car and it worked". I agree though, take the car to an auto sparky while it's still startable and get it checked. B.

My Caught in the Act storey Was a nice Friday night, I decided to meet up with some friends down at the local hoon meetup at the docks in Sydney, from there shoot out to somewhere for a nice quiet cruise. Anyway, I rocked up, switched on the UHF, and sat in the carpark to wait for friends to arrive. After 10 minutes, this AWESOME looking babe walks past the car, turns towards the passenger door, and unlocks her car (the nice black subaru next to my White Mazda 626 sports hatch). Anyway, I decide to perve as she bends over to get into her car, but next thing THUMP, she slams her door into mine. As this happens, the UHF pipes up, one of my friends was behind us, about to reverse back next to me on the4 other side, and he saw the entire door incodent from the outside, as did I from the inside. He tells me there is a massive black dint in my door, she looks at her car, my car, then proceeds to hop in her car and start the engine. I put the window down (10% tint) and she looks across at me, but sticks the car into reverse and starts to drive off. I start my car, pull out and follow, my mate pulls out behind me, and we both follow her. After 20 minutes, we had driven over the bridge, up the freeway, into artarmon, up to the Pacific Highway, and then behind us appear 2 police cars, the lights come on, and we are pulled over. all 3 of us stop (we where not speeding), but she gets out and starts screaming "these are the people trying to carjack me officer, they have been following me for an hour now!!". I replied to the officer with "She slammed her lovely back door into my lovely white car, check her door and my door, then she proceeded to leave the scene of the accident after I made it very clear I was in the car at the time, all I want is her details to pass to my insurance so my car be be repaired from her damages, at this stage we haven't even spoken to the lying bitch". The cop checked my door, her door, and then 1 of the cops went and spoke with her, meanwhile we where given some details from the other cop, including a police report number and told to head on our way. Her insurance range me a few days later telling me to provide 1 quote and then get the damage repaired. Apparently she was given a formal cautioning abotu leaving the scene of an accident, no matter how minor without providing details to the other driver.

If the car started with a Jump-start, the Startmotor WORKED. Now, having said that, you could have a starter like I had, it would sometimes start, sometimes not, and would need a thumping from a long metal pole. Turned out the Starter solenoid was on the way out, and was sticky. Bought a 2nd hand starter, reconditioned it, fitted it, and it was like an explosion every time I turned the key. B.

Have you linked all the grounding points (ground from head unit, amps, screens) to equalise the voltages between everything? I had a similar issue, and until I ran an 18 guage link to all the units, the sound just never vanished. Reason was because the car had previously been in an accident, I was grounding on the body, which had been very poorly welded back on the chassis and connection was very poor, so grounding on the body was also effected, but linking the systems resolved the issue. B.

this is how the R&D works. Drive it and upgrade it slowly until it let's go. Once it lets go, research the causes and weaknesses, and built a package that will ultimately make the identified sections stronger, and allow much more power and upgrades to occur. Once you have this package in, tested and showing potential you start selling the package, and perform the original process all over again. As you get more and more performance mods, you add to stage 1's package until the engine blows up again. Now you have the upper limit of stage 1, and the supporting aftermarket mods for it. Once you rebuild the second motor, you have the base line for stage 2 under way, and you keep upgrading until you blow the motor again, and you again have the stage 2 kit, the supporting mods, and the upper limit all sussed out. B.

I suspect someone either trying to be funny, or a jeleous Porsche driver trying to put shit on a better car (maybe the person he was racing lol). B.

Could be the amp... When ever testing amps, first point is to throw it directly on the battery to test, get an RCA to 3.5mm stereo headphone jack cable, plug in a walkman, CD player, or similar, plug the RCA's into the amp, hook the amp up to the battery using the Positive to Positive, Negative to Negative, and then a paperclip from positive to remote (to turn the amp on), and have a spare speaker with some cable running off that you can touch on the terminals for sound. If it fails when set up like this, you have issues with the amp, but if it works perfectly, you need to check your cabling back. Amps should run on 12 volts without issues, but ideally 14.4 Volts continuous feed is the aim. B.

I love all the advice about boxes and BOV's, quite funny.... In NSW, the legal requirement for an intake air filter is to be 100% boxed, the filter must be completely boxed, the boxmust not include part of the engine bay walls as part of the box (I.e, a cover going from the side of the engine bay, over the top of a POD filter, and down to the metal will not sufice as a pass). With regards to Atmospheric BOV's, the reason they are illegal is because they vent un-filtered gasses into the atmposphere from within the motor (turbocharger is classified as a mechanical device, therefore part of the motor). You can not get done for a plumbed back valve unless they believe it's not filtering the gas or is plumbed incorrectly. Another note: Highway patrol are not mechanics, they dont 'defect' a vehicle, they issue a notice for an inspection on the believe the vehicle might have a defect, and they specifiy where their belief is. If you have a non-stock plumbed BOV, they might 'believe' it's non stock and possibly non compliant, but in NSW, if it's plumbed back, you shouldn't have an issue. As for the previous mention of engine bay coverings, this is like the things used on the GEN III V8's, and even cars like Mazda 3 and Mazda 6, all they are is a plastic cover that sits over the engine, mounts via rubber plugs, and looks pretty. If your suspected of a defectable item, the Police will lift this cover off and start going to town, the Police are permitted to take of ornamental covers off to inspect the mechanical areas of the engine bay to check for detectable items, so shoving a cover over the engine wont work either. Not always the case with fuel consumption.... Majority of engines are more 'efficient' from about 3,200 to 3,800rpm, the engine is within the power area, required hardly any fuel to bring power on, and if cruising on a nice flat surface, only requires enough fuel to keep the engine turning while the car's momentum does the rest, so uses stuff all fuel. If your driving along at 1,300rpm in 5th gear doing 60km/h, your engine is not in it's efficiency range, therefore requires the fuel to get it to efficiency. An efficient engine will use less fuel than a lower revving engine B.

Run RCA/Speaker wires on 1 side of the car, Power for the Amp on the OTHER side of the car. Check that you have clean grounding, check that ground from the battery terminal to the Chassis/Body (R32 GTR has a shocking battery earth). Make sure your grounding is less than 1 meter long from the amp to grounding point, the shorter the run, the less resistance on the cable. B.

This is the visual version of stereo whining from alternator noise. Check your grounding, might be worth running a joining ground wire from headunit, amps, screens, etc so that you have a common ground for all your ICE (In Car Entertainment), also check the grounding line on the battery, make sure it's more than sufficient to ground your upgraded devices (R32 GTRR grounding from the battery to the chassis/body was less than 4 gauge and when amps where introduced to most audio applications, the grounding was inadequite for the extra current. Also (and this is my own personal thing), I tend to stay away from filters and the like until I have checked all the cabling and wiring, made sure I have done everything as recommended first, once I have met all the recommendations for a perfect install, I then start looking at filters and the like: Recommended procedure: *Always use a clean grounding/earthing point for all devices *Always run your power down 1 side of the vehicle, and signal cables on the other side, if you have to cross over, do it at a 90 degree angle ( like + ) so that there is minimal area for signal transfer and interference to occur *Check where vehicle power runs through the car, run your power the same side, the signal wire the other side (vehicle wiper power, lights, etc can interfere as well). *Keep earth leads as short as possible, the shorter they are, the less resistance the cable has. *Keep your earth leads at least as big as the 12v+ feed, current actually flows from negative cable to the positive cable, so negative is feeding power. *Make sure battery earthing point is adequite for the entire car, sometimes it's worth upgrading the grounding. There are some of the recommendations, I am sure there are many more that can be added to the list. B.

For cars that have the pressure sensor in the seat to know when someone is sitting and activate the seatbelt waning light for that particular seat, you can rig up a nice little timmer kill-switch, pressure sensor must be activated (i.e, sit yo fat arse down) before the car can be started, and once you get out of the car, it trips the sensor, and shuts down similar to a turbotimer, gives you 1or 3 minutes of idle engine before shutting the engine right off. The only issue with this one, is you need to rig it smart so that sitting down again wont shut the timing off and let the engine run on keys again. The other issue with this is it would suck royal trying to tune the car, reaching in and turning the key and the car not starting, pure pain in the arse. Also, no remote start either, as you have not sat in the seat. Another fancy security feature I encountered while doing some weekend work was a dash switch, you had to bridge the 2 metalic points with the same hand, and it would detect resistance, and if the circuit resistance was within the right margins, the ignition lights would fire up, and you could crank the engine. This was an issue for me, as I didn't meet the reistance levels, and the mongrel wouldn't let me start, but was easily overcome with a resistor and some wire fromt he tool box (if you knew the resistor requirement and the terminal points to connect to, both of which I was given from the owner, but not many thieves carry resistors). The old Ciggy lighter circuit is a goodie, as buttons on the dash or surround from the OEM stereo, having to hold a button in while starting the car, or pressing the button to give a timed starting period can help, having an engine kill switch on a timer with the buttons can be fun as well (in the case of carjacking, lean on dash button as you climb out of the car, sets engine to shut off in 60 seconds, sure the car can travela fair way, but when it shuts off, chances are the thieve gets out and runs). B.

Grill posted to Sydney????

Both are selling the same unit, the only plagiarising was from the manufacturer's specifications, nothing is original from the poster. B.

You wont know the supplier, he is a personal friend of mine, and the best man at my up coming wedding, but we are both screwed from behind anyway with this group buy.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...Ca-t200630.html

I ued to love using old Loom wire for my alarm system installs, would convert the alarm lead lines to a certain loom wire, run it into the actual loom, re-wrap the loom so that it looks stock, and at splice points, I would split the normal wire, then place in spliced scrap bits along the way as well, so there would be 3 or 4 spliced sections with some dodgey 'immatation" splices in spots that where more obviously going to be the splicing positions, but they would be nothing but iscolated wire that's not even connected to anything. I seriously love the installers that attack the ignition barrel about 5 - 10cm from the barrel, this is installer fail number 1, it exposes the wires for the thief to hotwire immediately, no guessing, you have the constant wire, acc and on, simply roll the car and she's going. I also love the installers that head for the ECU for disable points, how obvious is it when you see a blue with white wire come from ECU, and splice into a black wire, and about 10cm away, a black wire connects to the blue with white wire, guess what, I am sure if you joined the 2 blue and white wires together, you have over-ridden a section of the alarm, and it didn't even take rocket science to work out. The last installation I did for a friend took almost 2 weeks (Toyota Soarer), we removed the entire dashboard, spliced the alarm system in up under the top of the dash, ran a lot of stuff into and under the centre console, and then from there back to the lower section of the dash, so anyone tracing the flashing red light would find it looks to head to the boot or back of the car. We connected the relays under the dash, next to stock relays so they look like they belong with the car. We also replaced ALL the relays in the car with brand new, because 3 or 4 black shiny relays next to 5 dull looking relays is a giveaway to which are stock, and which are aftermarket. There are plenty of other hints for installation of an alarm system, but giving these away, will give away ways to gain unauthorised functions from the vehicle, which would be stupid to put up on a public forum, but escentially, get yourself a good installer for ANY alarm system.

Any alarm system will help your car, BUT not any alarm system will give you ultimate protection. Having said that, you can have the worlds best alarm system, has every single feature known to mankind, but it's useless if the installer is a moron and just shoves everything under the bonnet. What good is security if someone finds the controlling unit within 30 seconds of looking, sure the siren will be going off, but who bothered looking for "yet another car alarm going off again". The main part of any alarm system is the actual installation of the car. it's the same story as car audio, if your installation is awesome, you will get the most benifit from the alarm/audio. B.

I have an Australian supplier that can do the same thing at $325/unit without requiring 20+ and the Antennas used are invisible, so as not to draw added attentio, and no postage.

Mods, can we remove the immature stuff from the 2 children, and clean this thread up a little? Seriously guys, if you want to squabble, take it to kindegarten, leave the men to talk about the concerns with their cars, and go play on your tricycles. Personally, I have only heard of 2 factual gearbox failures in the US, non from Japan or anywhere else in the world currently, and this is out of how many sales for the new supercar? Sure, you have lemons, and being a HAND BUILT engine and assembly, there is bound to be issues in some of the cars, issues that have not been picked up in testing, but this is a fact of any car in the phase of a complete tradition change. Remember the R32, R33, and R34 GTR's run on RB engines and traditional 5 speed/6 speed H-pattern gearboxes, the H-pattern gearbox has been around for f**king years and was already a proven and known design, as for the RB engine, it was in the Commodore in 3 litre turbocharged form, the R31 Australian Skyline in 3 litre form, in the Passage as a 2 litre turbo, so the concept design of the RB combustion engine was already around before the 2.6 litre twin turbocharged engine came to manufacture. The R32 GTR was born from proven, already marketed parts with a few new features, such as the triple throttle intake, heads, cams, etc. It was basically a tuned RB20DET, with more capacity, and an extra turbocharger, but esentially it was simply super-tuned. From the 32 to the 33, it was refined, and from the 33 to the 34, the cams where changed, further refining an already proven and incredible engine. The new GTR is a NEW engine, NEW gearbox, both previously never fitted to other cars, and actually mated to each other, so being a new concept, you have to expect it's not going to be 100% perfect, but these will be ironed out, and again refined into the true super-car it claims to be. As for pricing, back in the days (1990), a Nissan Skyline R32 was somewhere around the $90,000 mark, compared to the Porsche of it's time coming in at the $160,000 mark, today's prices are the Nissan at $160,000, and the Porsche at $240,000 so with inflation the prices are much the same as they where back in the days. Please Mods, clean the dribble up from the children.

** goes off to get more pop-corn and booze **

You dont need to warm a car up, if you drive gently while the car is below normal running temp, you wont have an issue. As for the remote start, you do realise insurance more than likely wont cover a car fitted with such a device, and it's also against ADR, and makes your car defectable (more defectable). B.

With my R32 GTR, I ran the 4 guage power feed from the batter, into the front side guard, then through into the cabin with the main wiring loom near the accelerator pedal. From there, it was easy enough to run all the way down the side, and into the back where the amps where mounted. B.

If this is the case, also check your alternator which should be able to power the car without a battery or in the case where a terminal comes off or looses connection. B.