turbo_brian

You need to make sure it's got the right voltage rating, you need 12volt globes, or 4 x 3 volt in series for the voltage to work correctly, otherwise PING and she will blow. I noticed in the pictures above that the globes look to be in series, so they would be 3-volt high-light LED's linked in series to allow them to take 12 Volts feed. B.

Hi All, I have the R32 GTR, and currently, the 2 side-globes on the center console are rather dim (like some people at work). Anyway, I thought this is the change to replace all 3 globes with LED variants of the same thing, so they will be brighter, last longer, and look better. Anyone else done this? B.

If you want the cars detailed properly prior, let me know, I can make them shine far more than what a normal wash will do (cover costs of products and I am happy). B.

The inter-web has R32 manuals available for download, google will find you something very quickly, it did with me last week. Also, there is a link somewhere in here for the R32 service manual. B.

lock/unlock with key, if this doesn't work, lock/unlock with the inside locker, and then try opening the door (my GTR sometimes does this if the other half is in a rush and suicide-locks the door as I go to unlock it (suicide lock is lifing the handle as the other person unlocks the door through the central locking). She has done it twice to me, both times resulted in having to pull the inner door skin off and re-bent the rods. Nissan a re known for weak lock rods, I recently removed a central locking kit from my old R31, used the rods on the central locking kit as well as the connectors, bent the rods to the same angles, at the same spots, and basically 'splinted' the old rods. Haven't had an issue yet, but she hasn't suicided the door either. B.

Hopefully all fixed up now, has it been going nice since you picked it up? B.

Get an aftermarket alloy unit. I blew my stock radiator pipe off in December, destroyed the hose connector at the top. Gave up on trying to connect the rubber hose to the shortened connector, and bought a radiator from Just Jap (planned fill-in). Drop-in replacement, everything lined up, but the only thing it did not have was the lower bolts for the shroud (used the top mounted though). Everything was in the same spot, swap for swap, and after filling it up, and bleeding it correctly, it did well. I blew my stock radiator in a 35 degree day, I drove my car to Brisbane a few days before NYE, and drove around in the city on NYE in 38 degree heat, in the city in stop-start traffic. No issues, no heating problems, A/C pumping away, it was fantastic. Might not swap this radiator unless I find it absolutely cruicial for some sort of application. B.

Cant go cheaper than free Chris, I have a few 2 meter lengths floating around at the moment, so I was planning on making use of them (not for bling, but for the actual desire to have a strong ground, R32's are not very good, considering they have an 8-gauge for grounding). So what are the best ways to hook this stuff up, and why 2 leads? B.

I am about to re-ground my car's negative terminal on the battery, and wondering what others have done, and where they have grounded to.... Car: 1992 Nissan R32 GTR Skyline Battery: Optima Yellow Top The Plan: To use an alloy battery clamp and zero gauge oxygen free cable. I plan on grounding to the current chassis ground (cleaned and re-prep'd), but also want to ground to the engine block. Thoughts from others that have done this? Cheers in advance. B.

Cat converters shouldn't be welded on, they should be bolt-in replacable items. Idealy, they should also be replaced every 50,000kms to stay in prime working (EPA working) order. Get them cut out and flanged into place, that way you can check them when they are out, replace if required, and get to them easier in the future. B.

if it's only during take-off and never any other time (example, hard change from 1st to 2nd), chances are you might have a warped fly-wheel shuddering as the clutch comes into contact with it. If it's the tail-shaft bouncing due to the worn rubber, then you would also have the issue in all other gear changes as well, due to the gearbox changing force on the shaft. B.

The NSW government has a great plan, that wasimplemented just yesterday witha couple of racers. Instead of impounding the cars, having to supply land, have security for the cars, etc, they clamp the cars in the offender's property. Liability remains with the offenders, they can still start the engine once a week, but the car is clamped and can not be moved from it's location. As for the views of P-platers, import drivers, etcI support the police in what theya re trying to do, but sometimes they go the wrong way about it. OT, 2007 at Bathurst 1000 races, the police came in hard-core, went from the average 5 or 10 walkign around on Sulman/Reid camp grounds to over 500 police, sniffer dogs, riot squad, water tank, etc. People where being evicted from the event for things as little as piggy squealing noises and swearing. On the Saturday night, it came close to a full fledged riot occuring because of the tension between bogan campers and police 'law enforcement'. 2008 at the Bathurst 1000 races saw the same number of Police, but this time, the uniformed officers where polite, talked to the campers, socialised, and where VERY relaxed with everything. It was actually pleasant to have the officers around, there was no tension, no issues, and everyone had a good time. There was still a few rebel hooligans that went too far, and where evicted, but come trouble night, there was no major issues other than a few fire crackers let off. The difference wasn't in the numbers, the target outcome, or the plan of attack, it was in the manner at which the police presented themselves to the public, the attitude taken. I haven't had an Australian released carfor the last 7 years, I have had a JDM Mazda 626, a Nissan 180sx, a Toyota Soarer TT, and currently an R32 Nissan GTR. In this time, I have been pulled over 5 times for 'RBT'and booked twice, once for a burnout, and once for talking on a mobile phone (both my own fault). I am not a P-plater, so I dont get 'targeted' for my lack of driving experience, but I do drive an import, yet still dont get targeted. Something I also find interesting, years ago Qld law did not require drivers to display their L's or P's, yet P-plater drivers where still the highest number of drivers booked and involved in accidents (this information based on discussions with Redcliffe Police when I was last in Brisbane over the New Year Period), so you can not tellme that police where simply targeting P-platers back int he days when no P-plates where displayed, yet they where still noticably more involved in all the things they are trying tostop. I agree with Alan, if the government wants to tackle this problem, more driver skills AND attitude education is required, similar to what happens in USA, we should introduce driver education into 10th grade schooling (driving is probably the most used and most valuable skill someone in Australia can be given, and an actual life skill, not a useless bit of information). Also give the younger people and enthusiasts placesto actually go so they can better their skills, race, and get off the public streets to experience what the car can do and how to handle it. Sydney used to have Amaroo Raceway, this was closed for land development and housing, so we had Oran Park. Guess what, Oran park is now gone, re-zoned for housing development and sold off, leaving us with only Eastern Creek. Sydney used to have 3 places to go, now it only has 1 (unless your willing to travel long periods of time). Infrastructure. B.

depends on what the noise was. If it was a grinding like noise, then it could be a bearing noise, and thus the engine might be on it's way to seized, and requiring a rebuild. Get the car towed to a mechanic for checks, because starting it (new or old battery aside) might cause you much more damage in a very short amount of time, and could double the repair bill. I had a similar issue with a previous car, where it was making grinding noises at certain rev point, but eventually the car sounded like it had a flat battery trying to start, turns out the 3rd big-end bearing was gone, and the engine was struggling to turn. Clutch started the car, but that only ended up with me destroying the conrod, piston and crank. Get it checked, or at least find out what the noise was like, so that you can avoid any damage if there is any already. B.

Is this only in 1st gear at 2000rpm or all gears at 2000rpm. If it's only in first, what speed is it at? Is the clutch fully out? A vibration froma drive shaft is very rare, unless serious damage was done to the car, example drifted into a gutter or the like. I put the entire left side of my car into a guard rail at 100km/h, walk-away accident, had the car repaired, and I am still driving on the same shafts, no damage to the drive line at all other than suspension. What type of car is it, a GTS4 or a GTR? B.

I have a nice dead stock looking (other than exhaust) Silver R32 GTR, perfect paint work, fully intacked regarding pack seat. Will try to post a pic of it B.

Next time your there, tell him Brian with the Silver GTR said to say G'day. I use Scott at Pedders, he knows my car well, and was willing to do my last alignment for free (straight after a repair job on the car to check everything over). He will be doing most of my work, he calibrates the machine before I get the car up there, knows his stuff, and is up front and bloody honest when it comes to the car. Yes, my left hand side is way out camber wise, but there is reasons for this (car has a few small issues). Will be getting some new gear to resovle my issues, but she drives alright. BTW, for those who dont know, the more toe-in you have in the front, the snappier and tighter steering will feel. When I first got my car back from the repairer, it dead-set felt like a racing car, and I found the Toe-in at the front to be 5.8mm and the rears to be 3mm. Now it's less 'exciting' in the steering department, but not as wrestle-happy either, quite comfortable to drive. I will be getting numerous adjustments done to further tweak the handling. B.

Get an aftermarket Rev gauge, wire to the Revs wire ont he ECU and check the ECU's reading. You might find that although it sounds like a certain rev, it's actually different, the gauge might be right, and you might be wrong. I did this with my R31, because it sounded wrong, so I stuck my spare SAFC controller in which has a rev reading, turns out the tacho was reading different to the engine revs, and was mixing with some weird formulae with with regards to auto box, torque converter, etc. B.

Had the same issue in my CA 180sx, it would go spastic every once in a while, I would be accelerating to about 40km/h, but the speedo would show me taking off up to 120 - 140km/h on the dash (seriously, I was still going slow enough to get out and run next to the car). One time going across the harbour bridge in peak hour stand still, the gauge flicekd around past the 180km/h mark and stayed there for 5 minutes before flicking back to normal. Turned out it was the dash, as it was resolved after replacing the dash cluster, but that was purely because I needed to sell the car and didn't need the dash unexpectedly causing issues. B.

New clips from dealer or wrecker, but you will find yours are probably just bent, and/or mis-aligned and not locked in. Get the stereo system re-installed by someone you TRUST or a decent installer, as you cant rely on wiring and other stuff being right (especially with noises from the speakers). Try not to rely on mates to do installations unless they have background experience and people to speak to about their work (not wortk risking a friendship over dodgey work). B.

Got the pressure checked with a mechanical guage, have the figures at home, pretty decent pressure actually, but while the car's pressure switch was out, we flooded it with WD40/RP7/CRC lube spray, and it was caked with crap and rubbish. Gave the mongrel a good clean, and after re-fitting it, the pressures have returned to 'normal' on the guage. Oil currently in it is 10w-50 Mobil 1, and she drove up to and back from Brisbane without missing a beat. Also drove around in Stop/start traffic on NYE in the 39 degree temps (didn't like it, but survived). Still keep a close eye on the guages, but hopefully all good now. Being a GTR, I know one day the engine will let go, but the previous owner spend a good $12k on the engine prior to me getting my hands on it, so I am hoping it will last a little longer than a few months. B.

Wheel spacers in NSW are illegal....

Mine currently: Rear Axle: Left Right Camber: -2.08' -0.43' Individual Toe: -0.1mm +0.1mm Total Toe: +0.07mm Geometric Axis: +0"01' Front Axle: Left Right Camber: -2"37' -1"20' Individual Toe: +0.0mm +0.0mm Total Toe: +0.0mm Side Notes: Wheel alignment was done by Pedders Suspension at Artarmon. left hand side of the vehicle has previous accident damage from a large impact. Alignment machine was calibrated straight before the alignment was done. Drivability: Car drives straight as a die, corners harder to the right than to the left, but handles like it's on rails, rides true straight, can let go of the wheel, roll straight, drive straight, and brake straight. Anyway, lets here more. B.

This is straight baiting, and would be a breeze to fight in court if you had video evidence of the illegal and dangerous driving attitude of these such cars. Take the video evidence to Internal Affairs, Today Tonight, A Current Affair, and you will get a pretty quick reaction, look what happened with the cop that got done doing doughnuts with his police officer wife in the car at a rodeo. I have had a few try me, I have given them the rev back, let them squeal off at the lights and guess what, they are now in front of me and I dont have to worry about them. I also have my own set of dash lights, and when they spot this, they watch for a block or 2, and then speed off again leaving me alone. Seriously, not hard to spot them, and anyone that acts like a tool regardless of police officer or not, should be reported with the following: Time of offence type of offence date of offence place of offence registration and description of the car description of driver if possible photo if you can get one video if you can get one if enough people report these incidents to police, and if enough photos of these police with dash lights gets to papers, they might stop trying to bait young hoons and book people the old fashioned way. B.

Plugs: Gap them to 0.8 or 0.9mm for testing. Coilpacks: check for cracks in the coil packs, common on CA engines, and also RB engines Cylinder head: Check for oil down there, if you got some down there, clean it all out. If you have to, leave plug in and flush with fuel, then soak out with a sponge. Other stuff: Remove the coil packs of the 'mis-firing' plug, take the rubber off the bottom of the coil pack, and clean with degreaser, also clean the carbon tip of the coilpack to make sure it will get a good connection. Start the car with the coilcover off in a dark garage, see if you can see stray sparks from the coil pack, this usually signifies a cracked pack ($240 new from Nissan EACH). If you are having issues finding the mis-firing coils, start up, then slide the ignitor out one but one, if the engine idles worse, then it's not the mis-firing pack, if it makes no difference, it's the culprit. PS, to get better assistance from the guys, you should make the title better "help help help" doesn't say your having misfiring problems, etc and makes it harder for the specialised people to answer questions. B.