rob77

Thats done in shootout mode doesnt that differ from the normal mode?

If the cars in his yard were bought and complianced before the changeover to SEVS then yes he can sell those cars. The change's in importing has occured over the compliance of vehicles, ie: car must be in the same part's condition as it was when sold from the showroom/produced in when brought into the country now and put through the compliance process. Also some cars arnt available for import anymore and some new cars are now available.

as rev210's said before just running a light weight flywheel dropped his 1/4 mile time by 4/10's of a second... thats a pretty good gain for basically no peak HP gain.

Yeah, I would say the stock exhaust was very restrictive and was really keeping the boost low (we didnt measure the boost on the dyno run or the A/F ratio when we did the 97kw run) now at 175kw the car runs rich to start with but by the end of the run its getting a tad lean and yes that was me who wrote into HPI. I still have the very small cat on the car from compliance, I may end up putting a hiflo 3" unit in one day, but I'll be doing my front+dump pipe first.

if its 9am I'll be there, let me know exactly.

what time is the tuning dave?

my car, completely stock as it left the factory dyno'd in at 97kw @ wheels on sst's dyno, with just one of jash's cat back CRAP exhausts I went to 115kw's. With a trust fmic, blitz dual sbc set to 12 psi I've gone to 175kw, used the same dyno everytime. given that the runs were done on different days, different air temps etc etc etc... it gives me a rough idea of my gains for money spent. My dump+front pipe are letting me down though, as my car drops boost immediately around 5500rpm, doesnt tail off just drops straight down to 9psi. dump+front pipe are next on the mod list.

The best use of the dyno is to gauge what HP gains you had from a certain mod and to diagnose/tune the car with a aftermarket ecu or a safc. If you use the same dyno everytime you get a good idea of how much HP that mod made. From my signature you can see I'm running around 235HP (or 175kw) at the wheels and I havent done a great deal. Using a electronic boost controller over a bleed valve will give you much better results, but will cost a lot more. Plus with the upped boost you really do need a fmic to keep intake temps down and it should give you a bit more HP as well. When I change my ecu to an autronics and add a dump+front pipe I'll be going back to the same dyno to see what real gains I had from those mods.

You can still speed in a barina... its your habit you need to kick, not the car.

with my blitz turned off my car only makes around 0.55 bar, with a cat back exhaust... should have the front+dump pipe on in the next few weeks.

I just play indoor now, havent got time for the outdoor game anymore, seeing as I work saturdays.

I get dissapointed when I see the warriors play. I used to play cricket with marcus north when we were kids from about 10 through to 15. His dad used to coach marcus, my cousin and me privately cos we all looked like going on with it, marcus was the only one that made it, I gave it up to concentrate on my tee scores and I regret that now

with the stock intercooler and 12psi on a 30+ degree day the car would detonate when pushed hard because the intake temps were so high, detonation sounds like a rattling noise coming from the engine and will cause severe damage to the engine if you keep pushing it, if you hear it stop pushing the car and back right off. Now I can pretty much run 12psi on a hot day and push it hard without too many drama's but I dont like to.

how much do you want to spend sneeza?

Not too bad. I dont have the m-spec front bar so I was always going to replace mine with an aftermarket one.

take a photo and post it up, mines pretty hacked too, see my avatar

Nothing like setting my EBC to 12psi on a cold night like tonight and giving it a good fang on the way home from some crappy training session at telstra Even with the stock cooler on a cool night like tonight I found I could run 12psi without much problems but with the front mount now it does seem to pull a small amount harder.

The stock boost gauge is pretty inacurate as well, best to have an aftermarket one.

If you want to increase the boost there are 2 way, bleed valve or an electronic boost controller. Some EBC's have a boost gauge built in (blitz dual sbc) which will tell you how much boost before manifold. The bleed valve is much cheaper but will spike so you'll need to get yourself a seperate boost gauge to read what boost you are running. Eitherway is effective, just dont run more than 13psi through the stock turbo. Plus if you still have the stock intercooler you wont be able to run that boost all the time without having some detonation when the temperature is warm. Comes down to how much you want to spend and how reliable you want it to be.

I've bought a few bits and pieces of Paul from Autoworx and he seems like a pretty reasonable guy. He's car are well priced (for a dealer) and seem to be pretty straight. Jeff Ash from C-red is quite reasonable as well, nice guy just very busy, again I've bought parts from him. If you had time up your sleeve and this was about 6 months ago, you could have imported it yourself through prestige motorsports (or someone simular) and had a wad of cash left over to spend on more mods. Give Jeff a call at C-red and see what r33's he's got in stock or coming in, he does get some very nice cars, there is a yellow r33 on his website, www.c-red.com.au

Phat? I aint phat hehehe.

sure? I am pretty buff hehehe... if you think L is ok

got any photo's yet? I will take a XL one please, they still ~ $30?

we should change it to the easter friday public holiday... then again it'll probably be double speeding fines. be easier for me on the public holiday, I'll try and attend anyway.

Could be a dicky fuel pump or the stock pump cant keep up with what you've done. Or it could be all the advance, higher intake temps and higher boost catching up with the stock intercooler.