rob77

Spoke to Ray @ Kostera's and will probably settle on a set of Dunlop SP9000's @ 225/55 on the rear. Only because I've got stock rims and havent got the dough to get a set of 18x9's yet and fit some nice 255/45 tyres Cluth and tyres should be done in time for drags on wednesday 13th of november. Whose coming along? Rob

Whats the stickyest tyre around. I need something which will give me more traction @ rear for the drags. I dont want a slick, or semi slick either has to be street legal. Any ideas? Rob

Sorry, I thought I had a very reliable source. Rob

Ben, what did the rims cost you? Were you able to get 235 rubber on the back? Rob

Yes, wheels world are agents for whiteline. They arnt in subi any more though, not sure where they are now. Nasty landlord wanted to raise the rent to an unreasonable amount so they have moved. Rob

Exactly. But everyone is telling me a 13.xx pass is impossible on my current level of power. I *NEED* a AFC..... BS. So again the issue is re-enforced, you can get into the 13's with just exhaust, pod and boost, you need good clutch and wider tyres than stock and possibly some more suspension stuff. Rang ross @ auto clutch this morning but he's away till the 28th. Rob

But adam32 insists that I need a AFC to make it into the 13's because I dont have enough power. From the way I read mosts of the posts here it seems power is more important than traction and that you must have more power in order to run a good 1/4 mile time. The car is definately making the speed down the track, the terminal speed shows this. Its just a matter of getting the traction initially. Rob

I may have altered my tyres/suspension setup. But I will in no way have altered my power output. It will still be basically 0.8bar of boost, pod filter and cat back exhaust. I didnt whine or complain about my clutch slipping or my lack of grip, all I said is that once rectified I expect the car to be faster to the tune of possibly 13.7 seconds. Anyway, give me some time to investigate new rear rims and tyres, suspension bits and a clutch and I'll be back down at the drags. Rob

All I can say guys is that because of the crap you've given me for running a 14.50 @ 103mph (when GOT BOOST ran a 13.7 @ 103mph) I am going to go beyond and out of my own way to make sure my car runs into the 13's on the current setup of pod filter, boost and exhaust. Wider tyres will be fitted, new clutch will be fitted and anything else in the suspension area that will increase the cars squat and ability to take off. Rob

I was launching at 2500rpm with the clutch slipping. 1st gear was useless, clutch wouldnt bite properly and the engine was revving hard to 7000rpm, 2nd to 3rd @ 6500, 3rd to 4th 6500. The car hasnt been dyno'd yet with the new boost settings (by me anyway). I would have liked to run at 0.6bar, probably have less traction problems but terminal speed would be slower I feel. But needless to say by the end of the 1/4 mile the terminal speed is extremely high. Rob

Psiko you've got no idea mate. Look at my terminal speed, the car is going fast enough to equate to a 13.7 second pass without a problem, my traction and clutch are letting me down. I will be scanning my timesheet so all you non-believer's can go FOAD. Rob

Its a black series 1, stock rims, stock body. I was T35. My first run had me almost sideways down the 1/4, in first and second I couldnt keep it together *laugh* Rob

Chris, Troy has run a 14.01 @ 98mph. By the end end of the 1/4 I was doing 103.09mph, surely that should put me into the 13's. Just a matter of clutch and more traction I think. Rob

Hehehe, depends on what your looking for Rob

Well, I went to the drags with the intention of running into the 13's. Unfortunately for every import or fast four (wrx's) there was about 3 trevs. This meant about 20-30 minutes between each run, then some poor guy blew his engine on the strip and dumped oil all over it. So in the 2.5hrs I was there I had 4 runs. Best time of 14.506 with a terminal speed of 103.09mph (165.90kph). So whats going wrong, with that terminal speed I should be doing a mid 13-high 13 (say 13.7, which my mate did on a simular terminal speed in his 180sx). Well for starters the track sure as hell didnt feel as grippy tonight. I need wider tyres (possibly something more grippy, although the ceat's that I have are fairly grippy), some more suspension bits on the rear end (I think the diff craddles are loose as well, getting axel tramp, will probably just over-tighten them to be sure) and I definately need a better clutch, probably a twin plate setup (the stock one was slipping and I couldnt launch very hard at all. My 60 foot time was crap 2.616 seconds. If I fix the clutch and get some better tyres I'd say it would pull a 13.7 quite easily. So all I've done is; 1). 3.25" cat back system (no resonator's, straight through... loudish but more HP) 2). Blitz dual sbc boost controller (set for 0.6 bar and 0.8 bar. the runs tonight were on 0.8bar, I wanted to do a run @ 0.6 bar to see if I could get faster with less power and more traction perhaps, but wasnt going to wait another 20-30minutes to run again) 3). pod filter. HKS super power flow thingy, the green one. Flows the best, only good for stopping bricks being sucked into the engine. So really I've done basic mods to the car so far, but with the right clutch and tyres I should pull a 13 easily. Just shows you guys out there with 300+ rear wheel HP and running in the 13's you'd be best spending some money on your suspension setup than searching for more HP and the guys with little done to their cars it shows you dont need to spend big $$$ to run a quick car. Between the boost controller and the exhaust there is about $2.5k fitted and tuned (all brand spankers). Rob

Dont get me wrong insurance companies will go through great lengths to prove that your claim is null and void. I know of a few young lads who are insured as a 5% driver under their parents name on their HiPo car and both have had claims void'd because it was proven they we driving the car more than 5%. An insurance company can void your claim if they find that you havent reported all traffic fines and other fines if they so wish. I think its too fine a line to tread, especially if you have a bad accident and write your car off and need to make the claim because $25k is a bit too much to fork out for a new car. Obviously RAC is going out of the import business because its costing them far too much when someone makes a claim. Rob

Psiko, you better not come anywhere near me. I hate people who dont have insurance, what if you hit someone? going to pay for their repairs and yours? And dont say it wont happen. Rob

You know if the insurance company gets hold of that video they will probably cancel your insurance and bill you for the repairs. Videoing people having prangs whilst doing something stupid on the road is all well and good, putting it up so anyone can download it isnt a very good idea. Rob

Unlucky boostzor... but thats the price you pay for street drift. After I almost put my r33 head on into a light-pole I wont be doing any street drifting from now on, shame wanneroo is so expensive to get on. So is the supra back on the road after that estimated $5.3k worth of damage? $5.3k spent on the engine would have made a huge difference Rob

I'll give you $100 for it. Rob

I'll stick with my jap stuff, I know it works, its tried and tested. The trust unit is a tube and fin and yes I was comparing a tube and fine ARE unit to the trust unit. And you're right, why re-invent the wheel? Jap's have done the research and created what works best and it bolts practically straight on and in. My exhaust took less than 10 minutes to fit and the intercooler wont take much longer than a day after cutting and trimming the front bar to suit. Rob

Get a jap exhaust fit it, test it for noise output and power output, put an australian system on and it wont be as good. The in-cabin drone of the exhaust will always be lower on the japanese unit than a simular australian made one. Same thing goes for intercoolers, I compared a trust unit and a ARE core and just by visually looking at the core you can see how much better constructed japanese parts are. I cant wait to see a 9second GTR made souly from australian parts. Rob

Jeff Ash @ c-red is able to fit you up with a system thats almost identical to a Apexi N1 cat back system for around $1100. Its 3.25" from the cat back with no resonator to a large barrel style muffler to a 5" tip, sits at a nice angle its thin wall polished steel and looks the goods. I gained 15kw @ wheels on the dyno at SST from the exhaust and has a good throaty sound as well. All I need is a decent pipe off the turbo back and removal of the cat and It'd be even louder and blow flames. Jap exhausts and parts in general will also be a better alternative to australian made products, they will flow and work 100% better. The drawback, costs more. Rob

The one where I work at. Osborne Park. Rob

We sell the Uniden UHF's at Harvey Norman. Pretty much the same deal as the one from jaycar, but probably cheaper. Rob