lachlanw

hey all . just lookin to get in touch with fellow nz stagea Enthusiasts . because there is farc all on the internet about it . and SAU is a fairly decent bunch of roosters . yeah im in chc h. bought the silver RS four S from indy cars . got it for 14500 inc ORC and a service . which i thiught was a pretty good deal because its in bloody good nick. not any wear at all on the seats or steering wheel . and it is the only one with sunroofs i could find in a year of searching . has sinc had a HDI front mount kit , cat basher out and a R32 waste gate actuator on it . bloody rapped . does anyone know who ownes the (stock) identical car ive seen regularily around chch . silver RS four S. also got a mate who is putting a RB30dett in a series one stage

oh true . learn something new everyday . the sender unit for my defi gauge had a good metre and a half of cable so i ran it through the large/main grommet behind/undes the abs pump . got the controller in the glove box. works pretty sweet

do not use tooth paste . sure it is abbrasive and will polish things BUT unlike actual polish it has no control over the size of the grinding particles . think about it . and dont use it on glasses and cds and everything else someone who thinks their clever has told you

buy a r32 rb20det wastegate actuator . they are ten psi. 11-12 with exhaust -intake mods. or tie another spring on the outside of the watgate actuator if you really want to blow up the motor as fast it sounds like you want to

how the hell is that giong to achieve anything . the soleniod is there to bleed off air to the wastegate so that it can run more boost than the 5 psi the wastegate spring is set to .

i had a harness adaptor on my stereo plug to power all the garbage (phones navigation reverse camea hands free kit blah blah blah) when i got my car so connected mine to that . but yeah considering how easy the stereo is to get out and there plenty of room and wire to easily connect to behind there .

yeah that nipple is there for the factory boost gauge to plumb on to (RS four S) . mine is a ''s '' and o "T'd" my defi gauge sender . into it

mine has H.I.D lights that work fine and while the above mentioned fuses are missing. and the relay is missing . everything works tho

they only cost 160 NZ$ which is cheaper than 140 OZ$

any one else out there got the blaZz system . i do . quite handy/usefull/quirky/entertaining all at the same time . bloody easy way to check / reset ecu codes . also easy to reset self learn after every new mod . and other stuff like time trails and data logging . and checking injector duty cycle under full load . eg mine are at 88% right before i shift out of third at full load . and apparently the hearse does 0-100 in 6.3 seconds. http://www.blazt.biz/

what issues were you having with the stock boost controller ? with mine i noticed it was floating between 0.7 (9.9psi)and 0.8 (11.3psi) kgf/cm2 up the top end .boost was rock solid on .7 up intill bout 5 grand then had a little flutter through to redline . i put the spare R32 waste gate actuator on it the other day and it runs just under .8 nice and stable but trails off up the top of third gear . i have the actuator plumbed straight out of the elbow off the turbo . also discovered and removed the restrictor as this is there to help the factory electronic boost controller and would cause a spike just straight on to the actuator . might put the factory electronic set up back on as a 1 psi vairation isnt really that bad when i think about it . how much of a dip was there in your power at 3000 rpm ? i do not notice a dip there / there is/was one at about 5500 but 3 degrees more timing fixed that . tried it on the blaZt laptop and it was way better all the way through so changed it in the engine bay . fyi car has a 80ish mill cat back exhaust . the cat has been gutted . HDI frount mount kit . and runs on bp 98 ultimate

can you please elaborate on exactly what getting it "tuned" involved ? did they re write the computer ? install a piggyback? or just adjust the boost and timing and fuel pressure and other such adjustables

rs four s models all came with hicas.... and in my crud factory manual has a picture of the resivior and has some japanese jibberish (well japanese that i cant read)but it has ''LSD" in the middle of the jibberish in bold letters. just to confuse the issue more

"The powerplant is the RB25DET as introduced in the R33 GTS25T. In R34 form, however, the engine is upgraded to more environmentally friendly 'NEO' specs. The NEO RB25DET also features a hot-wire airflow meter, 9.0:1 static compression, air-to-air intercooler, ceramic turbine roller-bearing turbocharger, blow-off valve and variable inlet cam timing. With manifold boost pressure of around 60 - 70 kPa (as shown on the factory boost gauge) the R34 25GTt is listed at 206kW at 6400 and 343Nm at 3200 rpm. The R34 25GTt scores its extra power over previous models thanks to a larger turbo (providing a healthier amount of boost), better intercooler, an improved exhaust system and engine management updates." By my calcs; 60-70 kPa= 8.7-10.2 PSI

maybe four fuel pump or your fuel or a knock sensor or somethin was shody on your car . i dunno . gonna get a dyno run sometime . to see if its as fast as it feels it certainly aint slow by any standards. and certainly isnt hitting rich and retard

i know a few cars will stay in third or 4th if the detect a problem . kinda like a "limp home "mode thay call it . and yeah if the light is comin on then it deff needs connecting to a computer and reading

my manual has a picture of that button and a picture of a dotted line accross the bottom and up the drivers side of the windscreen . i also have the switch in my car . havent had time to figure out exactly what it does /how it works . mind you i have treated my windows to scott goggle cleaner/anti fog . fark it is mint . windows are crystal clear and wont fog up even if you breath right on it

and im aware that the bit in my first post about +700mmHg is ten psi being wrong . its about 13 . but u cant edit it

rs four "s" does run ten psi the whole way through the rev range . no step in the boost . read the rest of this thread . it hits ten puond by 2500rpm in third gear and really starts makin some torque

if it is a mechanical lsd they will spin freely in opposite directions as they only lock(bind) under power

y did you disconnect the standard boost controller ? mine runs ten psi on the standard setup .

ok my bad i swear it did last time i checked . meh good thing i have the defi gauge aswell . not that it really matters besause my car is only gonna have ten psi up it which it came from the factory with . mmHg is a vacume measurement anyway . stupid unit to measure pressure with . the r34 gtt factory gauge is in kpa .

http://www.onlineconversion.com/pressure.htm

check where the vacume line goes onto the factory boost gauge sensor . its quite random plastic and mine had split and the gauge was just generally up to f all . its on the same bracket that holds the throttle cable right where ti comes through the fire wall . the pipe is on the bottom . i now get full range of movement on factory gauge . nearly -700 and right through to +700 which is what my defi gaugeg says -600 to 0.7kgf/cm2 . +700 mmHg and 0.7kgf/cm2 both equal ten psi . well they did on the pressure converter i used .

how thick are your half shafts ? mine look way thicker than the those ones . mind you i have 6 bolt drive flanges . (rs four s)