lachlanw

that engine would put a horn on a jelly fish . lovin the "mount" for the AFM's too .

never had any problems with mine . mind you never measured it either . my amp negative is just jammed between the factory scissor jack and its bracket . head unit and boost gauge negative is connected to the metal bracket the head unit gets mounted to . all is sweet . sounds sweet with good head unit and good jvc speakers

this one is bloody hot . dark blue/black? gtr stagea http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-188931521.htm

i recon you should also have some say in the tuning . like you can stuff a lot of boost up a standard car but it goes bang pretty quickly . and the collisions are tretty basic , should be able to roll cars and lose a wheel and stuff

stagea rs four s does exactly 2500 at 100 . suites me fine

oh was after the pic of the autech body I/C hole . btw

i thought it was because it failed compliance due to rust on the autech. man it must suck sometimes to be in oz . nearly everything that gets imported here gets new disk rotors anyway (although these ones were extremely bad) and we all saw how bad the rust on the sway bar is . bad enough to write off the whole car . who ever made that call should be shot . good thread anyway . if its not too much to ask could you post up a pic of where the pipe from the I/C to the plenum goes through the body ?

i pulled the top off the tank one day . the fuel light had come on with in a k of home . we all know how big the tank is . about 3 foot wide and 2 foot long (roughly) (ish) and there was at least 5 inches of fuel in there . the guy that said it caught him out did it stop while you were driving or would it not start after you parked somewhere . coz as we all know it makes a huge diff if the car is parked on an angle

quit your winging , when i bought my car we had to pay $2.30 a litre for bp 98 (NZ). mine did 420 kays from half way between full and 3/4 down to bang on 1/4 . did 120kays the whole way and passed everything i could find. included finding the speed limiter

it says to do this in the rb25det neo workshop manual . and clear the error codes once your done

i like the bit where a 210 mm turbo inside a 220 mm pot equals a 10 mm gap !!! but yeah good sh1t

oh interesting . was it factory looking? and where abouts was it ?

series 1 had a snow button next to the gear stick (as nearly every farking automatic anything ever made does ) they also had a button on left of steering column that made it 50/50 torgue split . (would axle tramp when turning on a drive way that has excess gravel on it

or buy a real/better/bigger air filter

does anyone else besides me see this as a "patch up job" as in doing this is not fixing the fact that your airfilter/airbox/AFM is too restrictive . i mean yeah this is a good idea and it works and i will probably do it myself one day . but yeah it makes you wonder about how much vacuum the turbo is acctually generating. surely this is similar to having a blocked /under sized airfilter and we all know how bad that is for everything and good for nothing . your thoughts ?

has your fuel filter been replaced lately /at all . has very similar symptoms although had no dyno sheet as proof but you could just tell by driving . pulled old one off and struggled to blow through it at all . put a new one on and it went 8 million times faster . maybe not 8 million . but atleast 6 million times faster . yeah seeing your A/F ratios would help a lot

unplug the TPS plug aswell . it cancels the self learning . leave all the coils and covers in place and clip the inductive pick up around the blue wire at the back ot the cam covers . rb25det neo

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ru...amp;mode=linear

just did first real out of town driving .( ch ch to timaru and back ) was bang on half way between 3/4 and full marks on gauge . when i left . did 120km/h all the way down there and passed everything i could find . came back in the evening and did the same (with G/F driving ) including finding the speed limiter ( about 190 if gauge went that far)because i had not found it yet . and when i got home the gauge was bang on 1/4 . and the trip meter said 420 kays . since resetting it that morning . pretty stoked with that . oh car had 4 people in it and all my moto-x gear and lunch and shit . was runnin BP98

upping the base timing by 3 degrees made a big difference on mine . rs four s .made it pull hard all the way through and got rid of a noticable flat spot when the vct turns off. cant remember exact rpm.

never mind the fact that THE FRONT WHEELS ARE TURNING THE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT ANYWAY. unplug the green plug next to the steering column turn the key on and pump the brakes . THE WAY IT SAYS IN THE R33GTR WORKSHOP MANUAL. have done it with the car on hoist . start it up and put it in gear . no movement on the fronts AT ALL . also your ABS wont throw a major spaz

open the oil cap (on the rocker cover) and look inside and see if it all looks clean and shiney and the oil is mint and give it a clutch kick in third under hard load to make sure the clutch isnt on the way out . they like a grand for the clutch and quite a bit of labour to replace .

mine does well under 12/100 with the girlfriend driving it no matter where she drives it or how many people are in it . i get about 14/15per100 but i drive it "properly" RS fourS with fmic de cat , cat back and only run on BP ultimate 98

according to blaZT cable and laptop mine does 0-100 in 6.35 . on a luke warm evening with my fat arse and 1/3 / 1/2 half a tank of gas . de cat cat back HDI fmic and RB20det wastegate actuator

oh aye . nah never heard of it aye . looks pretty good .