djr81

Pro's. Is fashionable so you can hang with the cool kids. Is ecomentalist friendly. Makes moah powah and moah torque. (This is the overwhelming benefit) Runs cool. Con's. Stores badly (is hydroscopic) Can be hard to find at the servo depending on where you are. Blend used to change to E70 during the winter for easier start. Not sure if this is still true(?) Need bigger fuel systems than petrol and you have to be a bit careful about what the lines/surge tanks etc are made out of. Need new tune. Costs more to run.

Want to see Honda do well. Don't care so much about McLaren unless they paint their cars orange again. Have an old MP4-something in orange that Hakkinen used as a test car. Only F1 model I own. Hoping the VTEC is strong. Will be interesting to see who out of McLaren and Lotus get their sht together first. Atleast McLaren can tap in to the government funds from whichever country half owns them. Lotus not so much and they are starting off a poor base but with a better engine. Will see how it pans out early. Reckon McLaren will have it sorted by years end, however.

McLaren need a B team to develop young drivers. Like RedBull do and Ferrari did. But that aint going to happen under Ron Dennis. Probably don't have enough kesh to do so at the moment anyway. Alonso wont be cheap and I cant believe how much they are paying Button. Their wage bill must be almost as bad as Ferraris except Ferraris drivers are more mediocre - not as good as Nando but better than Jensen. If they had have signed Grosjean or Hulk then they would have been better off.

Cmon man, Andrew Hawkins.

Yeah the Brawn was horrible.

What happened. They need to keep Honda in the headlines. So who's more popular in Japan Button (ex factory Honda driver with a Japanese missus) or the other bloke? But anyway they need to develop the car next year and Button may be better placed to do that than Magnussen. As for Fernando that is a no brainer. Best driver out there.

Only because he is using the block from factory and not with a torque plate hone. So the higher torque for aftermarket bolts tends to further distort the bores. I think.

Well I will say it just be careful with a stock bore (ie machined from factory) and new pistons. You may need to check with your engine builder and see if they are happy to use that combination. Also I would use stock head bolts not the higher torque ARP ones. Maybe flick me a PM..

You probably will. They tend to pick up on stuff ex the US in a way they don't ex Japan. No idea why.

86mm is 86mm. Problem is finding 86mm pistons in aftermarket. Try this thread. Sorry for the mis naming of it. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417029-65mm-pistons-ie-stock-bore-for-an-new-rb26-block/page-3

Seeing it and using it are two different things. It may be used for boost control but not for fuel and ignition.

Nah its this: http://www.frsport.com/Quaife-QDF14L-Rear-ATB-Differential---Nissan-Skyline-GTR-R32-R33-R34_p_350323.html Plus postage which is over $100 for me. So say $1350US which is about $1630 AUD. Then you add 10% GST and you have $1800 anyway. So why not buy local.

Buy a HICAS elimination kit from the likes of Tomei or by an elimination bar or new rod ends to eliminate it or do a DIY solution or or or. There are loads of ways. Have a search there are loads of threads on this very subject. As for the 10%. Stop. You will get yourself in no end of trouble and very possibly others. Join a club. Get a cams licence. Do track days. You will quickly discover how much fun doing things properly and responsibly is and also how lame driving like a muppet on the road is. Please do this. It is not difficult.

1. Stop driving like a muppet on public roads in the wet. 2. Its the HICAS. HICAS is rubbish - get rid of it. 3. Your welcome.

Yeah its $1500 shipped but does that include the GST customs are going to hit you with plus their fees? Not that I care for Just Jap, just saying.

Just be a bit careful with your US pricing. Don't forget to: Add 20% because our dollars sucks. Add postage. Add 10% GST to all that. Add customs fees (Sometimes). Add 3% if you are paying by credit card. Gets pretty close to the local price.

This. Ben knows. Something subtle like this perhaps. http://projexuk.com/wheels/status/grinder_s815/black Oh and I have a Falcon.

Ah good. Looks like we have a winner. Next stop tiny little fkn Nismo stickers.

These?http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Carbon-Steel-Wheel-Lug-Nuts-x-20-M12-x-1-25-Nissan-Subaru-Suzuki-Long-/261563738553?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce669e9b9 ARK Design blah blah something.

Replaced the CAS. Cough disappeared.

Fronts and rears on a GTR are different - fronts are larger round the knurl so rears may be ok but the fronts nah. http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=76 http://www.nengun.com/nismo/long-hub-bolts

Yeah bit late for that. They are already rusted and fkd. Glad I didn't pay $300 for them. Roy, you don't happen to have a part number for the ARP studs - cant find a reference on their site.

Am trying to avoid open ended nuts. This thread now makes me feel dirty.

The sun load sensor is on top of the dash board on the left. It will report a fault if you have done the test in the shade. The outside air temperature sensor is just behind the grill if I remember correctly. Disconnect it & measure its resistance. Should be a couple thousand ohms and decrease as it gets hotter. Fix that and then worry about the pbr thing. Mostly the door actuator sticks in place and just getting it to move is enough of a fix without replacing it.

Really - what torque do you use post lube?