djr81

The plan is to get it out of the shed. The reality may fall some way short. But hope is as cheap as despair as they say. Will go a wide band I think. The coils are ok so maybe I’ll miss the $1500 on the R35 coils etc. Im still on the fence about a trigger kit. The HKS one looks nice ($1k) - not sure how it works with the Link or if Link prefer something else. Oil pressure is fine so I’m not that concerned there. Fuel pressure I’ll have a think about. The IAT got changed for the Link anyway as the old RB26 ones were really slow reacting and pretty poor. The Power FC just worked. Wasn’t terribly refined but it just worked. Probably made a mistake replacing it really. E85 isn’t available locally - it is 100+ kms away which puts it in the too hard basket. Lastly I understand Tunecorp in Perth are pretty good so was probably going there. As for turbos is there are new age -5 drop in replacement? Turbos have come a long way in 20 years, everyone is big single which is fair enough but I prefer the old school complication of twins. Wasn’t chasing more power (well, not much more) but more efficiency would be ok.

Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.

I still have an old R32R left over from when they were a thing in the early 2000's. It was, for its time, done about right. But its time was 20 years ago. I did try and update it a while back but it was cruelled by a (recommended) muppet of a tuna who couldnt tell his MAP from his TPS. The original spec was: Power FC, 700cc Sards, Nismo pump, 2860-5's, cams (Basically Poncam A's), Z32 AFM's and a half sorted oiling system. Thereabouts 430rwhp irrespective of what was done. So, yeah, very 1990's. I eventually got sick of it not being very refined and bought a Link G4 PNP with some 1000cc Bosch injectors. This was tuned badly and I put the car in the shed for a few years whilst I sulked and went and did other things. Ive come around to the idea of getting it going again so it has a new gearbox installed and some other minor things in the planning. So my questions are, variously (In the context of keeping the Link) What other sensors should I be running eg It has no wideband on it at the moment, nor fuel pressure. $? Is it worth chucking the old ignition system (ignitors etc) for new ignition coils? $2k? Cam/crank angle sensors? Can keep the aircon? $? Anything else? Sorry to launch another what should I do with my car thread but, you know, what should I do with my car? Random photo for historical context.

Thanks lads. Ill go get some more diff oil and have a think about how much friction modifier etc to have in it. For whatever reason the Nismo item feels much clunkier than a shimmed the stock one. I got suckered by the prospect of it pushing a bit less off throttle and ended up with a clunkfest.

It is possibly 55 degrees for the Nismo version. I had a look through the manual and the stocker has a breakaway torque of 2.5 to 3.5kgm. Supposedly the Nismo LSD goes down to 5kgm when worn in but it is pretty grabby even with very little throttle. Worse when cold. So I guess you have three things. 1. Shims. 2 Friction plates 3. Cams Would think shims would be the easiest but Ive no clue how many tenths of a mm shim thickness change equals how many kgm torque. Also not sure if the Nismo friction plates are similar/different to stock or if they are the most of the source of the diff being angry. Think I can write off the Nismo rebuild kit for the standard diff as not being what I want.

I have an old R32 in the shed that hasnt moved much in the last few years and probably should see the light of day. At one point I had a Nismo 1.5 centre put in the rear diff. It is a clunky nightmare POS of a thing on a good day. To make it less painful the initial torque setting has been put on the minimum (7.0kgf-m, mid is 9.5, high is 14) and the oil changed out to something more slippery. But it is still awful and ruins the vibe of the thing. So my questions are: Given I have the original parts sitting in a box somewhere would it be better to rebuild the thing again, reverting to more purity? Is there a standard kit or do you just go and replace the friction plates etc and shim it the way you like it. How much initial torque does the standard R32 rear diff have? Or does the Nismo disc kit offer a better solution - the caveat being the initial torque for both options appears to be higher than the clunky 1.5 way. There appear to be two Nismo disc kits: 3843S-RS520 for 8kgf-m. 3843S-RS521 for 12kgf-m. Or is the easiest solution to reshim the Nismo diff to make it looser?

Looks CP9200 ish. CP9200 - Forged Front - 152mm Mounting Ctrs | AP Racing

Yeah well his thing is/was petrol. Anyway he now has a newly sleeved 2ZZ. Ryco do a half decent catch can.

A mate of mine did this. Unfortunately he neglected to periodically clean the injection nozzle, which being water/meth clagged up. The motor went fkn bang on account of detonating its brains out.

Turbos are fine, just a bit old school as the hipsters have diluted their gtr purity and gone for singles. They are still good units, however and the blokes with ponytails and beige Volvo dailies can get stuffed. ‘The ecu is a good ecu. You just need a good tuna to tune it. My point wasn’t to put down the setup just to highlight you need someone familiar with rb’s and their idiosyncrasies. .3:1 isn’t earth shattering on the cr. Certainly nothing E85 won’t compensate for in spades if you go that way. So yeah don’t get negative about it. It will work fine and be loads of fun. FWIW I’ve got -5 turbos and a Link ecu.

Yeah never give away cr or even squish unless you absolutely have to. But if the thing is together then go with it. Should run into 400+ Rwhp easy and have a long life doing so.

Send them back and get a higher cr. Yes for the air inlet temp and not what I meant for the tune. See here. Some tunas talk a good game but individual throttle body tunes are beyond them. Where abouts in the world are you?

Assume you have the ballast delete and a new AIT sensor? Plus someone who can tune TPS?

Begs the question what intake air temperature are you running? Because for some models atleast (EG RB26 in an R32) it should be replaced with something less antiquated/faster responding. Inlet Air Temp sensor (IAT) – From factory the GTR is fitted with an IAT sensor to the inlet manifold and this is supported by the G4+ plug-in. However for best results we recommend an alternative IAT sensor to be fitted to the intercooler pipe just prior to the plenum entrance. This may use the existing IAT wiring or connect to the expansion connector of the ECU.

I had something similar. Vibration under load. So give the thing a squirt and see if you can match the front torque gauge to the vibration. Mine was a pinion/crown wheel on the front diff.

Yeah the Skylines went and then it was all LS valvetrain upgrades and ECU flashes. Now it is all lift kits and DPF deletes. When I occasionally drive my old 32 I see people losing their sh!t at the sight of it. Cant quite reconcile it still.

I was speaking to a Skyline owner who had good things to say about their ABS system. Mind you the discount would want to be epic to be able to justify it.

You stuck at Albemarle? Sorry it is a cultural thing. The only way to show any respect for anything is to relentlessly take the p!ss out of it. On that basis: Mal, your boat appears to be missing a bunghole. A random photo of Bunghole Skyline for those playing at home. As distinct from a Bunghole Skyline of which there appears to be fewer and fewer, sadly.

Yeah dunno. Maybe boats are better than 32’s. Anyway point being you can get decent adjustment without rose joints if it is a road car.

How much offet change do you get with reverse mounting? If they are going from +20 to +?? you may be getting a bit fitment. What size are they anyway 18x9 or 17’s?

The only downside that I found was less compliance/more crash in the suspension when you went over things like train tracks/potholes etc. I went with this sort of thing. NISSAN SKYLINE R33/34 HARDRACE HEAVY DUTY TENSION ROD - Otaku Garage

Wait, what? There are standards for getting into a pub in Bunno? Gentrification must be happening. Flanno and a mullet should get you anywhere.

Hey there is nothing wrong with Bunghole. Sure it’s no Birmingham, but we go alright.😃

Hard to say isnt it. Used to be people wanted an R with modifications but I think (But dont know) they are now more drifting towards wanting the whole purity/cleanliness thing. Certainly nothing starts below $80k that I can see. How much of a premium over that is the question. So, yeah, no help at all then.

I was going to suggest checking Rodney's big ends and/or the turbo but it sounds like a dropped valve or a piston if it goes clunkety clunk and is laying down smoke screens.