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djr81

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Everything posted by djr81

  1. djr81
  2. djr81
    Understand that the fuel pump will probably sh!t itself at some point in the future. They don’t enjoy pumping water.
  3. djr81
    Depends - do you mean car stuff or other stuff?
  4. djr81
    8000rpm.
  5. djr81
    Car should have had a clear coat when it was built. Would expect that it has been rubbed off. Look, have a crack it may not work but, really, its not like you are going to make it any worse.
  6. djr81
    Yeah track rotors die by cracking. Road rotors either warp or run out of thickness. Cant see the sense in paying twice as much for a rotor just becasue it has slots in it.
  7. djr81
    Then dont waste money on slotted rotors as they only make a difference on the track and even then not much. They do, on the other hand, do as below. Just go buy some RDA rotors. Cheap and they work just fine. Worry more about the pad than the rotor.
  8. djr81
    Well I reckon he has too but the three or four things I would start with are: Check power supply to control unit and any other oddball modified shit someone may have done be it there or elswehere. Change out control unit with a known good one. Check blend door. Check mode door. Ofcourse that is assuming the Humphrey B Bear has refrigerant in it and the compressor etc goes round.
  9. djr81
    Search mode door actuator. Also blend door. Mostly blend door.
  10. djr81
    Nah dont do that. Best idea is to get a level 2S cams license (Get your young un to do so too) and as they say in the classics take it to the track. You will learn heaps, meet good (motorsport) people and have a huge amount of fun. There may even be a Skyline club in NSW....
  11. djr81
    If you are doing valve springs etc you may want to have a think about clearancing the head for a larger lift valve. Removes the restrictions of Poncams and will give you more choices. For lift, notsomuch for duration.
  12. djr81
    If you want part numbers of the diagrams as above they arent on youtube. Go to nengun. Go the the genuine oem parts button and follow your nose. The images are higher resolution than Amayama so are easier to read.
  13. djr81
  14. djr81
    http://www.brypar.com/product-category/prime-r/prime-r-uprights/
  15. djr81
    https://www.efisolutions.com.au/bonnet-rubber-stopper-main-r32-r33-z31-z32-z33-y61
  16. djr81
    Couple things: You dont appear to have a boost controller - not an electronic one atleast. It looks like the standard RB26 system is in place still. Stay away from rose joint suspension arms on a road car. Rubber bushes are fine. Also poly bushes are fine. Also a tiny oil cooler is more than enough for the power steer system, particularly after you have deleted HICAS.
  17. djr81
    Reads well until you get to the last line.....
  18. djr81
    Nismo clutches come with a flywheel. Also, a long time ago I had a single plate organic in an R32 GTR. It was fine. (Was used with a single mass flywheel) https://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/en/product-range/clutch-kits/stage-1
  19. djr81
    Nismo twin plate doesn’t rattle, so you wont know it is there. I have the competition version which is a bit grabby with the copper in it but the lower torque version should be better in that regard.
  20. djr81
    https://www.nengun.com/oem/group/MjU5MDI1IC0gTWZDZm1vQllNX0NmbTdCTmRrTm1iVzlDV1UxZlEyWnRiMFpNVEZSUk5VNTVNSGROUkUwIC0gUG93ZXItc3RlZXJpbmcgUGlwaW5nIDxjaGFzc2lzPg==
  21. djr81
    Has good spanners. Uses the cheap stuff so doesnt ruin his good spanners....?
  22. djr81
    There is an oil cooler for that circuit standard. You can replace it with something a little larger (Its just a finned tube) if you want.
  23. djr81
    Maybe. The Skyline headlights are rubbish. From memory you need to make changes to GTST headlights to allow them to fit a GTR grill
  24. djr81
    They look decent. What size/offset you chasing becasue the only one close is 18*9.5 +15 on a centre bore of 77mm which is the wrong one?
  25. djr81
    Guessing he is advocating N1 headlights. Personally Id stick with what you have.
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