djr81

Pretty sure that reasonably fit for purpose and hektik in fitment are not the same thing. Again: If someone asked you now what size & offset you wanted, what would the answer be? For that matter what size & offset did they sell you?

"How often and what percentage of people order custom wheels, to know what information needs to be provided to get it right ?" Nearly all of them. In fact I would say 100% other than you didn't. The almost inevitable outcome of not specifying what you want is you get whatever is served up. Which in this case you didn't like. Out of interest if someone asked you now what size & offset you wanted, what would the answer be? For that matter what size & offset did they sell you?

1. Moot. not mute. 2. "They didn’t do due diligence and take no responsibility when the wheels don’t fit" Whereas you did? 3. You needed to specify what you wanted, not what you wanted it for. Simply put failing to correctly specify the offset you wanted is down to you.

What was wrong with what drenj222 had? If it is the condition of the material under the covers they are all like that. You have to go and buy some material and fit it yourself.

They are just a basic cyclone. Pretty easy to get one fabbed up in aluminium. The other thing commonly used is a sintered brass bush. Like this:. https://www.valvesonline.com.au/brass-mini-silencer

Renault are talking up their new engine for Canada. Reckon it to be much better. Guess we'll find out if the RedBull can get on terms with Ferrari & MB. To be fair its probably Hamiltons tears that are slowing them down. He is the only one out there that can match Stroll when it comes to having a sook.

For a road car you wouldn't want to move pick up points, other than maybe the front upper which is a bolt on bracket.

Had Cusco rods in my thing. Car was horrible over transverse bumps (Say pot holes or train tracks). Replacing the rods with something with compliance made a huge difference.

I was referring to bushes alone, not arms. I hadn't ever heard of anyone wanting to lengthen front upper control arms. The overwhelming experience is to do the opposite. After looking for ages I gave up on finding a decent UCA and made my own. It is worth contemplating if you have access to someone with fabrication skills. The other point to make is don't run a rod end castor rod. This is where compliance is built into the suspension and removing it trashes your UCA bushes (The rear one, usually). You can get adjustable for length rods with bushes at the front end. Hardrace from memory.

Then buy the NIsmo version.

Hmm. I flogged out the trailing upper front bush in one track day. It was a white line. Thing that fixes it is moving the pick up point for that link. Do the super pro bushes have pigtails for grease retention. The photos don't appear to show them. Or are they all the same? The nolathane bushes are dimensionally the same as the Whiteline bushes.

Are these the specs you want? Duration (degree): --- Intake: 256 --- Exhaust: 256 -- Max Cam Lift(mm): --- Intake: 8.50 --- Exhaust: 8.50 Cams have lots of variables. Lobe centre, ramp rate, base circle diameter....

Just watching the video. Looks like you have bags of under steer.

RHD list them individually. EG https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/engine/nissan_skyline_er34-rb25det-08-2000-06-2001/model/nissan_skyline/car/nissan/?q=tomei

Nice work.

Just so you know I am going to feel incredibly dirty putting this on my car. http://search.supercheapauto.com.au/search?w=Tridon CB16110

Have a 42mm PWR radiator. It never overheats and I am in WA where is can get hot on a track day and I run 98 not E85. Down side is it leaks and I can never find the leak. Be the Nismo fkn cap then eh. Random post will help enormously:

PWR core - above. Nissan core - above. The joys of recirculating blow by. Plazmaman core.

Be interesting to see where Dan ends up next year. Anyone got any advice for him?

If you are consistently locking one side and not the other your corner weighting is probably out. If you are locking one axle and not the other your bias is out. If you have too much bite then change pads. Ferodo DS2500's aren't known for being bitey. What brand pads do you have? Find some non fire proof racing shoes shouldn't cost you much more than $100 or so. Fancy ones start at twice that.

Are your pedals standard? Do you wear proper shoes when on the track rather than your normal Doc Martins or whatever people wear nowadays. They make a huge difference. Try practicing with no shoes on. If you are consistently locking rears the chances are your bias is out. If you brake hard without the car in gear does it lock up the back end? If the answer is yes it may well be the case. Quickest fix is then to get some rear pads with a lower coefficient of friction.

Hmm, went through the same process, slightly different result.

Just out of interest (Doubtless has been asked) but how much for the canister?

Will look excellent.